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skim coat, wallpaper, painting

I am removing wallpaper. After I am finish, I will use my magic trowel and skim coat the walls with thinned out joint compound, and then I will paint the walls. My question: how diligent do I have to be about removing paper? The wallpaper is not cooperating and bits and fragments spot the wall, and I don't want to spend the night removing every little spot if I do not have to. Can I just put a skim coat over the thin layer of paper that spot the wall? This is just the thin layer of backing that stays behind when the paper is removed.

This is a bathroom.

Thanks for any guidance.

Re: skim coat, wallpaper, painting

Preparation is the most important part of a finishing job. Just spray a little water on the patches, let it soak and scrap it off. If you don't it will probably come loose when you apply the mud.

Re: skim coat, wallpaper, painting

Hey CF,
One more step needed here!!!

After all paper is off, scrub/wash down the wall to get rid of all paste residue. Stripping solutions like DIF or Chomp are real good. RINSE WELL, and let dry a day.

>>> Now the imporant part...You'll have to "lock-down" any torn drywall, loose edges, missed glue...with a coat of a special primer called GARDZ, by Zinsser. It's clear, and must be used prior to any skimming/patching.

>>> After GARDZ is dry, proceed with patching/sanding.

>>> When this step is dry, and ALL SANDING DUST REMOVED, Prime again with a top-quality Latex primer.

>>> THEN...finally:)...your two coats of actual paint.


Re: skim coat, wallpaper, painting


JLMcDaniel is right. You should try to get all paper and residual paste off the wall before patching. Further, normally a general skim coating of the walls should not be neccessary. If you have gouged the wall and bared the pulpy drywallpaper, you should spot prime those areas with a non-water soluble primer such as Kilz to "set down" the knap of the paper. If you don't, you risk it festering up when you go over it with drywall mud or spackling compound. I prefer to patch with drywall compound because it is easy to sand and the edges of the patch can be blended into the texture of the existing wall with a damp rag or sponge wiped around the edge. Drywall compound readily re-dissolves, pre-mix vinyl patches do not. Products such as "Spackle" or "Fix-All" do not readily dissolve like drywall compound.

After patching, spot prime the patches with a 100% acrylic drywall primer and then prime the whole area with it. If you are
changing colors to a strong color, I would tint the primer close to the paint color. !00% acrylic primers seal much better than a PVA primer and should be sufficient as a base for the higher sheen paints used in baths. Two coats of finish paint are not always neccessary.

I always primed the whole area after removing wallpaper. Try as you might, you always miss a little paste here and there. It you paint directly over this residual paste you risk a stain bleeding through, or worse yet, it might actually make the paint peel up in areas.

Truth be known, wallpaper removing was one of my least favorite jobs. You never knew before hand whether it was going to come off easily or turn into a nightmare and it was mostly out of your control. It mostly depended on how the paper was put up in the first place. A well sealed wall will release wallpaper without excessive damage.

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