Trim painting always makes an impact, yet many folks would prefer to avoid the process. That’s understandable, as it does require some awkward positions and a little bit of work. But it’s certainly worth the effort. Rather than let chipped and stained trim give the whole room a rundown appearance, bring back its good looks with a coat of paint. This guide will explain how to paint trim like a pro so your rooms can benefit from that freshly painted impact.
How To Choose Trim Paint
There is more to choosing trim paint than just picking the color. It’s good to know the basics of paint sheen and base type before heading to the local paint supplier.
Paint sheen
First, decide on the paint finish. Paint comes in several sheen types. Sheen refers to how shiny and glossy the painted material will appear once the paint is dry. And since sheen often dictates how easily a surface will be to maintain and clean, it’s a very important factor when it comes to hard-wearing items like door and baseboard trim.
There are three sheens to consider: satin, semi-gloss, and gloss. Satin has a duller finish but hides dents and imperfections well. Semi-gloss has a light shine, cleans easily, and can make trim pop, but might show dents and dings. Gloss will show all dents and damage, but it’s very easy to clean and makes painted moldings really stand out.
Oil-based vs. latex
Next, it’s time to choose between oil-based and latex paint.
- Oil-based paints produce a lot of harmful VOCs (volatile organic compounds), so if you use them, make sure to do so in a well-ventilated room and wear a respirator. On the plus side, they’re durable and long-lasting.
- Latex paints aren’t as durable but produce far less VOCs and dry quickly. They’re also easier to apply, and many folks have moved toward latex paints for these reasons.
It’s really a matter of preference, but latex paints are typically the paint of choice. Also, latex will adhere to oil-base-painted trim, but oil-based paint won’t adhere well to trim already painted with latex paint. For that reason, if you’re not sure what your trim is painted with, go with latex.
How To Paint Trim
The following steps provide guidance on the best way to paint trim, including pro tips on preventing paint splatters from getting on the surfaces you don’t want to be painted.
1. Prep the room
The first step in painting trim is to remove any items in the room that are easy to carry to another room. Then for all of the furniture and other large items, move them into the center of the room. Do your best to condense the items and make them into a pile if you can, so that you can cover them with a drop cloth to ensure that they’re protected from drops of paint.
2. Repair any damage
Survey the trim and look for areas that need to be repaired. If any trim is loose, nail it back down, and set any nail heads that stick up from the surface. If any trim needs to be replaced, it’s best to take a small sample with you to the millwork section at the home center. You’ll be able to match it up with the moldings in stock and avoid any purchasing mistakes.
3. Fill holes and caulk
Use wood filler to fill any nail holes that may exist. Wood filler won’t shrink as much as spackle or joint compound, so it’s a great filler product for moldings. Once the wood filler dries, sand it smooth.
Next, caulk the baseboards and moldings. Use a paintable latex caulk to fill any gaps along the edges of the moldings and anywhere moldings meet. This will clean up the appearance and hide any small gaps that might exist. Allow the caulk to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
4. Apply painter’s tape
Apply painter’s tape to the surfaces around the trim that you don’t want to be painted. This includes along the floor under the baseboards as well above them on the wall, around the window and door trim and along the walls and ceilings around the crown molding, if there is any. Get the tape as close to the trim as you can, without it overlapping. Press the edges of the tape down firmly for a good seal.
5. Sand and remove dust
With everything filled and caulked, it’s time to give the trim a light sanding to remove any dirt, loose fibers, and other imperfections that will affect the paint job. Start with 80-grit sandpaper and give the trim a light sanding. Once finished, move to 120-grit paper to smooth it out.
Vacuum any sawdust from the area with the wet/dry vac. Then use a clean tack cloth to remove any dust from the surface of the trim.
6. Prime the trim
To start, spot-prime any repaired areas, nail holes, or areas where knots in the wood might be visible. Dip the tip of a 2-inch angled paintbrush into the primer, tap the sides of the can with the brush, and then apply a few light brush strokes only to the repaired areas. Allow these spots to dry thoroughly before going back and applying an even coat of primer on the entire trim.
Tips: Work from your non-dominant side to your dominant side (so for a righty, paint a wall from left to right). It’s easier to paint smooth, even brush strokes when painting toward your dominant hand. Also, when priming corners, start the stroke about ½-inch away from the corner and then push the bristles into the corner lightly for the best results.
7. Paint the trim
Once the primer is dry, it’s time for paint. Follow a similar procedure and path as you did while priming—start to the left and move right if you’re a righty, or vice versa if you’re a lefty. Dip the tip of the brush into the paint slightly more than 1 ½ inches and remove the excess paint by tapping the brush lightly on the insides of the can.
- Paint the corners by starting slightly away and then lightly pushing the brush into the corner.
- Cut in along the tops and bottoms of horizontal moldings and the sides of vertical moldings first before painting the main field of the molding.
- Start a new brush stroke slightly in front of the previous brush stroke. Push the stroke away, then lightly drag it back into the previous stroke to maintain a consistent finish without visible brush strokes.
- Make sure to maintain a wet edge and overlap previous strokes.
- Carefully cut in along the edges, even if the painter’s tape is there. This will prevent puddling, running, and dripping for a much better finished look. Don’t overwork the paint either (three or four brushstrokes will usually do the trick), or there may be brushstrokes in the paint.
Enjoy Fresh, Clean-looking Trim
Once the paint dries, simply remove the painter’s tape by slowly pulling it along at a 45-degree angle. With that last bit of work done, you’re free to move everything back into the room and enjoy that freshly painted trim.
Materials
- Drop cloths
- Wood putty
- Caulk
- Painter’s tape
- Sandpaper or sanding blocks
- Tack cloth
- 2-inch angled paintbrush
- Primer
- Paint
