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California_Cookie
Re: choosing a beadboard/wainscoting height(h)...

Bon jour....me again.

My friends: Are there general principals about how high wainscoting or beadboard go up a wall? This is for an outbuilding writing studio...not a kitchen or bathroom.

I'm using long individual slats, not prefab panels, and want to put them up horizontaly for a kind of casual, farmhouse look. 4 of the tongue-and-groove slats equal one foot.

What formula would one use to find heights that fall in "the ****en ratio," which sounds like some good heights to start out with exploring? ((EDIT: Weird how it won't let me type that...)

If the top of the wall is at 7'9" (before it goes into beams and a pitched ceiling, which I expect will make the wall look taller), how do I calculate some heights for "the ****en ratio" within that 7'9"? (Outlet in pic will be moved)

Thanks for any thoughts...or a link to another thread if this has been discussed to death over the years!
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A. Spruce
Re: choosing a beadboard/wainscoting height(h)...

No offense meant, but you really need to adopt the KISS principle, Keep It Simple, Silly. The go-lden mean doesn't apply in this case.

Typical wainscot height is 32" to 36", you can set the height at whatever suits your tastes, or decorating needs. There is no need to put any more thought into it than that.

As for why you can't type go-ld, it is because of being censored due to spammers, there are a number of words that are equally frustrating, such as scr-ape or on-line that are also caught.

HoustonRemodeler
Re: choosing a beadboard/wainscoting height(h)...

Keep an eye on the height of window trim, counter heights, switches, outlets, anything that will interfere with the chair rail.

California_Cookie
Re: choosing a beadboard/wainscoting height(h)...
A. Spruce wrote:

No offense meant, but you really need to adopt the KISS principle, Keep It Simple, Silly...

Hey there, Mister Man, fabulous rooms like this don't just magically happen!

: )
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A. Spruce
Re: choosing a beadboard/wainscoting height(h)...
California_Cookie wrote:

Hey there, Mister Man, fabulous rooms like this don't just magically happen!

: )

True, but there's a difference between taking the time to envision and plan out the space and design, and worrying about which dimension of the room is width and which is length, or whether or not the wainscot is congruent with the go-lden ratio.

Where you need to be spending your time is on what colors, and shades of color you want to use, what furnishings will live in the space that need their own space, focal points, and what-have-you. Or, making sure you install accent lighting for the pictures you're going to display. It is the details like this that are important to designing a space.:cool:

jkirk
Re: choosing a beadboard/wainscoting height(h)...

typical rule of thumb for wainscotting height is 1/3 the wall height.. so 8' ceiling will mean 32" high wainscotting including the chair rail.. where your ceiling is at 7'9" you can go with 30"

if you go higher it makes the room feel smaller

California_Cookie
Re: choosing a beadboard/wainscoting height(h)...
A. Spruce wrote:

Where you need to be spending your time is on what colors, and shades of color you want to use, what furnishings will live in the space that need their own space, focal points, and what-have-you. Or, making sure you install accent lighting for the pictures you're going to display. It is the details like this that are important to designing a space.:cool:

Oh dear....accent lights. Now you're ahead of me!!

I do have furniture and colors and art picked out. Those things can be switched around though...while the wainscoting height is kind of there to stay, once it's up. (I mean, practically speaking.) I want it to be classic enough not to need to change it. I do see what you mean about the furniture and art contributing to what the height will be. I had not thought of that!

I found a thread that mentioned using painter's tape to put around the drywalled room, to help envision different heights.

I'm comfortable following my own instincts...I just want to double check with more experienced people, such as are on this board, so if there's basic formulas that are tried and true, I'll know to consider them, as well.

I did score a bunch of tongue and groove slats (don't know what they're formally called) in a salvage yard. 2 types...one's chunkier and more ornate, which will make a good chair rail and crown above, with the plainer ones below.
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Thank you all for your comments...

A. Spruce
Re: choosing a beadboard/wainscoting height(h)...
California_Cookie wrote:

I'm comfortable following my own instincts...I just want to double check with more experienced people, such as are on this board, so if there's basic formulas that are tried and true, I'll know to consider them, as well.

And there is absolutely nothing wrong with that, it is far easier to properly plan your design than to keep changing it.

As for height, like I mentioned, it's generally 32" to 36", jkirk's input that wainscot is typically 1/3 the room height is a more exact definition. I would point out, however, that in the picture you provided the wainscot seems a tad taller than normal, but it works because of the overall room design.

Using painters tape, at least in a short section, will help you to visualize the wainscot, you don't need to tape off the whole room to get an idea of the effect. You may also want to research wainscot in general to see different designs, for instance, a beadboard will look totally different than plank. If you were to break the wall up into sections and "frame" those sections you'll achieve a different look as well, sort of a raised panel effect. Your choice of cap trim will drastically change the look and feel of the wainscot too. From the sounds of it, you're going for a bit of a rustic look, so I would be inclined to stick with a very basic top cap, even to the point of using a 1x3 rather than an actual molding trim.

Sombreuil_mongrel
Re: choosing a beadboard/wainscoting height(h)...

Paneling/wainscot can be run to any height. 1/3, 2/5, or 4/5 all work depending on the style. I like the craftsman-era tall wainscotting that was built to about eye-level.
Casey

HoustonRemodeler
Re: choosing a beadboard/wainscoting height(h)...

Also check what is "normal" for your area.

junkout
Re: choosing a beadboard/wainscoting height(h)...

actually the origonal way to determint the height of the chair rail would have been to measuer the height of your chair backs. not that that applies here but i thought i would put in my two cents. other than that i agree with most others put it where you feel it looks good. but like someone else said pay attention to outlets sills ect

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