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Picture framing a window

As long as one allows for a reveal and measures properly, what would be wrong with assembling for mitered pieces of trim before nailing it in place? I would think this way would get you the best fit in the corner and also show all of the irregularities in the wallboard. Has anyone done it this way?

Re: Picture framing a window

Can you re-phrase your question?

I have some idea of you're asking, but I'm not sure.

Re: Picture framing a window

To answer your question, yes. I have done it that way. However you must make sure the windows a square.


Re: Picture framing a window
dj1 wrote:

Can you re-phrase your question?

I have some idea of you're asking, but I'm not sure.

I want to trim a window with four pieces of mitered casing. No stool. Can I assemble the four pieces first?

MLB Construction
Re: Picture framing a window

you can absolutely do it that way. we do it that way on occasion to save time. but the window has to be square.

Re: Picture framing a window

We tack the centers of the vertical pieces then measure the top. Cut the top piece then tack the center of the top piece. This allows us to adjust the verticals and top to match at each corner.

Re: Picture framing a window

it can be done but it takes a few extra steps.. youll have to set up a work table large enough to support all 4 pieces. .you also should biscuit joint the mitres.. when your ready to assembel it. glue the biscuits in place and the mitres.. from there cross nail hte mitres and use mitre clamps if you have some until the glue sets. after a few hours take the clamps off and take the casing to thee window frame.. just be very careful no to knock the assembled casing because the glue joint can fail.. for this reason its easier just to assemble it in place on the window

Re: Picture framing a window

Here's a trick for those without outside corner clamps trying to assemble 'picture frames' or similar.

Cut 4 blocks of appropriate stock with a 'V' in them, make the 'V' 88 or 89 degrees, not 90. Dry fit and screw the two diagonally opposite blocks to your bench or a sheet of plywood or whatever after you get things square. Glue up the frame and set it in. Now screw the two loose blocks in place with the screws slanted inward to tighten the whole thing. Recheck square, adjust as needed by tapping the corner blocks with a hammer, then let things dry. The acute angle on the blocks will keep the corners tight whereas a 90 degree angle may not. You can make some 'clamping bridges' from scrap to hold the most stubborn corners down. These are made from something thicker than your corner blocks with a longer piece attached to one end. A smaller equally thick piece on the other end will go onto the molding inside the corner blocks. Now one screw thew longer piece into the bench or backer and that will cause downward pressure on the corner joint. The great part is that all this stuff is reusable and the cost is zero since you've already got the scrap wood and screws. I like using 'advantek' for the base since it's usually pretty flat and is strong enough for the backer and screws. With scrap from a few jobsites, you can do all the picture frames in a house at one session and set them aside to dry on top of each other so they are out of the way of everyone till you're ready to install. This trick works well when the 'picture frame' isn't square since your corners will always be held tight even on a [email protected] shape and everything is infinitely adjustable in every direction.

When you need it and ain't got it, you make it.


Re: Picture framing a window

This vendor has every imaginable clamp and aid for assembling mitered frames, all on one page.

Re: Door Casing

I am going to start replacing all the door trim in our home. But first, we are going to put sheet rock over 1/8" paneling.

I need to know how to adjust the trim over the new sheet rock so that the trim looks right.

Any help you can give me would be appreciated. I tried to find info on the TOH website but could not find it.



A. Spruce
Re: Picture framing a window

1 - Why are you overlaying the paneling, remove it, then assess whether the walls can be repaired or need to be overlaid.

2 - If you make the walls thicker than your door jambs, then you have to add spacer material to the jamb that will bring the jamb flush to the new surface. Let's assume that the jambs and trim are fine now and you overlay with 3/8" drywall, you will then need to add strips of wood to the jamb that are 3/8" thick as well, then install your trim over that.


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