4 posts / 0 new
Last post
Texas Bob
Texas Bob

I have 14 feet of bookcases with lower cabinets with doors and drawers. I will be painting with a brush. I have several questions. I want a very durable finish that will leave very little brush marks. I plan to use pure white color. What type of paint and primer will meet these requirements.

Texas bob

A. Spruce
Re: painting
A. Spruce

Zinnser's Bull's Eye or 123 primer would be a good choice, followed up with a good name brand paint such as Kelly Moore, Sherwin Williams, Dunn Edwards. DO NOT attempt to use Behr, it's junk. I can't recommend a particular type of paint (oil, latex, alkyd, ... ) I usually defer that to the paint technicians at the paint dealer (I primarily use Kelly Moore ). There are also additives that make paint "flow" better, again I can't elaborate as I am not familiar with them. There are a few very knowledgeable finish people here, hopefully one will chime in soon.

It is also just as important to use good quality brushes for the job. Pro's use Baker or Purdy brushes. These brushes are high quality, well made tools that really make a difference in the level of finish. I would recommend using a 2" and 3" sash brush (angled bristles ), and choose the proper bristle for the paint you'll be using.

Re: painting

Hi Guys...

Yep...the better the brush-the better the finish!
* IMO, the Purdy Syntox-series brush is VERY GOOD! Very soft bristles primarily aimed at Oil OR H20 clear finishes; and for demanding situations like your shelves using Latex paints.
* Or, if you can find a dealer that handles Corona brushes, get one of their Chinex series...the Escalade of brushes! Usually in the $15-$20/brush range.

Insl-X's Cabinet-Coat paint, or ACE's Cabinet/Door/Trim paint are a relatively new class of "Leveling" paints. Both are a "Hybrid" paint, meaning polyurethane/alkyd resins are used, as well as top-notch Latex resins.

If you're after "bright white", pick the ACE Ultra-White tint-base and go for it! The Insl-X White is kind of am odd Gray/White.

Notes on application:
* Don't "dust" with the brush...meaning...use long, even strokes.
* Apply what you can level evenly within 60 seconds-TOPS!!
* Preferably, no brushing after 45 seconds.
* Then, leave it alone for 24 hours.
* Apply 2nd even coat.
>>> The hardest part is just walking away after brushing-out an area!! Leave it alone after 1 minute.

What you DON'T wanna hear...
* Full cure for putting books, etc. back on is ONE MONTH.
* No matter what paint you're using, it takes a MONTH to cure hard enough to not show indentations.
* Dry vs. CURED-HARD are 2 different things!!

You CAN use a traditional paint like mentioned in previous post, but you may also want to add some...
* Latex X-tender by X-I-M. Call around to a SW store, or some hardware stores. It can be hard to find.
* Floetrol can affect color of some whites. XIM's won't...and you don't need much of it!!
* This stuff extends the time a paints' "binder" remains open, helping extend work-times and eases leveling.

Let us know how it goes!!

Faron (in Fargo, ND!!)

Texas Bob
Re: painting
Texas Bob

Thanks for the suggestions

Texas Bob

Sponsored Stories

TV Listings

Find TV listings for This Old House and Ask This Old House in your area.