In this video, This Old House general contractor Tom Silva installs time-saving shingles.
Installing fiber-cement siding
- Transfer the wall stud locations to the exterior wall surface. Snap vertical chalk lines to represent the center of each stud.
- Apply a bead of exterior-grade caulk to the two lower corners of the front wall.
- Press a length of aluminum Z-channel flashing into the caulk, then fasten the flashing to the wall with 1¼-inch roofing nails.
- Nail ¼-inch-thick x 1½-inch-wide wood lath to the Z-channel flashing. The lath will bump out the first siding course, creating the proper angle.
- Cut a length of fiber-cement clapboard siding ¼ inch shorter than the width of the front wall. Score the cut line with a utility knife and snap the siding in two.
- Apply a vertical bead of caulk at each end of the wall.
- Set the fiber-cement clapboard siding into place, raise it ¼ inch above the Z-channel flashing, then nail the siding to the wall studs with 1¾-inch roofing nails. The siding acts as a filler strip.
- Run a vertical bead of caulk along both ends of the clapboard siding. And repeat for each subsequent course.
- Measure 12 inches up from the bottom edge of the clapboard filler strip, and snap a horizontal chalk line onto the wall.
- Cut a piece of fiber-cement shingle siding so that its end falls on the center of a wall stud.
- Hold the shingle siding flush with the chalk line, then fasten it to the wall studs with 1¾-inch roofing nails. Be sure to drive the nails through the filler strip behind the shingle siding.
- Continue cutting and installing shingle siding up the wall, making sure to overlap all end joints and slots between the shingles.
- Mark and notch siding to fit around window trim.
- If necessary, cut individual shingles from a siding panel to fill in beneath a window. Face-nail the shingle pieces with 1½-inch stainless steel nails.
- Protect the siding with a coat of acrylic latex exterior-grade paint.