After recently upgrading my table saw, I figured it was time to create a brand new workspace for it, as well. In part one of this six-part series, I’ll demonstrate how to create the foundation for the ultimate mobile workbench. Later, in the videos to follow, I’ll show you some of the great additions you can make to complement its functionality.
At 4x8 feet, this larger work surface will make a great out-feed table. The design requires a whopping five sheets of plywood to create the top, bottom, sides, and inside dividers.
For the cut list, tools, and materials needed for this project, scroll down to the bottom of this page.
Steps for Building a Workbench
- Start by coating the full sheets with two coats of primer. Then, use a circular saw to break down the large pieces.
- Tip the base upright and use glue and corner clamps to hold the walls in place. Screw through the base and into the bottom edge of the pieces to secure them. Next, add the center wall and the sides of the opening that would hold the table saw.
- Add the shallow walls that would create a recess at the end for a clamp rack.
- Set the assembly on a dolly, so you can move it around as you add more dividers and a shelf inside one of the cabinet openings. It is now time to add the final caster wheels and tip the entire assembly upright.
- Next, install a temporary block to hold the shelf for the table saw, with a plan to fine-tune the shelf height after the top is installed.
- Use a circular saw and a hand saw to cut the opening in the benchtop for the table and trim the wall of the frame to allow the table saw’s extension to fully open.
- I used a hole saw to add a hole for my vac to attach from the adjacent cabinet to the dust collection port.
- At this point, you should be able to at least set up enough to use the table saw to size the doors and shelves. After using the table saw, I decided to add another vertical divider to support the workbench surface beside the saw.
- Add some doubled-up plywood pieces as supports on the open side of the assembly. Finish off with a 1x2 which could also be a plywood strip placed across each cabinet opening to strengthen the plywood top and create a stop of the full inset doors.
- Once installed, drill pocket holes along the top edges of the walls and supports, and then position the worktop and screw it into place.
- To install the doors, drill a hole for European hinges using a jig. Then, screw the hinges to the doors. Next, position the doors and screw the hinges to the inside of the frame.
- I used a hardware jig spaced to the width of my door handles to drill perfectly spaced holes, and then secured the handles on each door.
To see how I built the workbench and added tool organization, easy DIY drawers, dust collection, a downdraft sanding station, and clamp rack, click the links below:
- Adding Tool Organization to a Workbench
- Building DIY Drawers
- Creating a Dust Collection System
- Adding a Downdraft Sanding Station
- Adding a Clamp Rack
- ¾” Plywood Base – 1 @ 45” x 93”
- ¾” Plywood Top – 1 @ 48” x 96”
- ¾” Plywood Divider (G/I) – 2 @ 43 ½” x 31”H
- ¾” Plywood Divider (J) – 1 @ 55 ½” W x 31”H
- ¾” Plywood Divider (L) – 1 @ 14” W x 31”H
- ¾” Plywood Divider (C) – 2 @ 3” W x 31”H
- ¾” Plywood Divider (H) – 2 @ 3” W x 27 ¼”H
- ¾” Plywood Shelves (E) – 1 @ 30” W x 31”H
- ¾” Plywood Side (A) – 2 @ 30 ¾” W x 31”H
- ¾” Plywood Side (D) – 2 @ 6 ¾” W x 31”H
- ¾” Plywood Doors (B) – 4 @ 13 ½” W x 31”H
- ¾” Plywood Doors (M) – 2 @ 14 3/8” W x 31”H
- ¾” Plywood Shelves (K) – 2 @ 13 ¼” D x 53 ½”W
- ¾” Plywood Shelves (F) – 2 @ 30”D x 32”W
- (5) ¾” x 4’ x 8’ plywood
- (8) Heavy duty swivel locking 3-inch caster wheels
- (32) ¼ - inch carriage bolts – 1 inch long
- (32) ¼-inch nuts
- (12) European hinges
- (6) Door handles
- Wood glue
- 2-inch wood screws
- 1 ¼-inch pocket hole screws
- Primer and paint