The back of a hammer, called the claw, can be used for much more than just removing nails. This curved or straight projection opposite the hammer’s striking face is designed for multiple uses, starting nails in out-of-reach places and providing leverage. In this guide, we’ll explore the various uses for the back of a hammer, advanced techniques, and how to select the right hammer for your project.
Anatomy of a Hammer
A claw hammer is a simple tool that consists of four main parts.
Head
The head is the metal portion at the top of the hammer. It contains both the striking face and the claw. The head’s weight and design vary depending on the hammer’s intended use, from light-duty tack hammers to heavy framing hammers.
Claw
The claw is the curved or straight projection at the back of the hammer’s head. It’s designed for nail removal and can also be used for prying and levering. The shape of the claw often determines the hammer’s primary function and application.
Curved vs. Straight Claw: A curved claw acts as a good fulcrum for pulling nails, while a straight claw is better at wedging, prying, and lifting. With sharply beveled inside edges, either style will bite well onto a nail shank. As demonstrated on This Old House, a curved claw lets you lever out a nail with less effort, but a straight claw puts more force on the surrounding wood — so placing a scrap block as a fulcrum underneath protects the surface and makes pulling easier.
Handle
The handle provides grip and leverage for swinging the hammer. It can be made from various materials, including wood, fiberglass, or steel, each offering different benefits in terms of durability, shock absorption, and comfort.
Face
The face is the flat, circular striking surface at the front of the hammer’s head. It’s used for driving nails and striking other objects. The face may be smooth or textured, depending on the hammer’s specific purpose.
All finish hammers have a smooth striking face, as opposed to the wafflelike “mill face” found on some framing hammers. According to TOH Magazine, the best finish hammers have a distinct “crown” — a tiny convex curve that helps center the face on the nail and allows a skilled carpenter to sink the head of a nail perfectly flush to the surface without denting the wood. A steep bevel around the striking face also prevents the edges from chipping over time.
Types of Hammer Claws
Hammer claws come in two main types, each designed for specific tasks and preferences. Understanding the differences can help you choose the right hammer for your project.
Curved-Claw Hammers
Curved-claw hammers are the most common type for general carpentry and household use. The curved shape provides excellent leverage for nail removal and is less likely to mar surrounding wood when pulling nails. These hammers are versatile and suitable for a wide range of tasks.
Straight-Claw Framing Hammers
Straight-claw hammers, often called framing hammers, are designed for heavy-duty construction work. The straight claw provides more leverage for prying apart lumber and is better suited for demolition tasks. However, they’re less precise for general nail removal compared to curved-claw hammers.
A framing hammer’s heavy head—typically 20 ounces or more—paired with a long handle and straight claw can sink a big 16d nail in three strokes, what TOH Magazine calls “the carpenter’s equivalent of a home run.” Many framing hammers also feature a waffle or wafer head with small dimples that prevent the hammer face from slipping off the nail, which Tom Silva says is especially useful “when you’re trying to toenail it in a hard-to-get place.”
Common Uses for the Back of a Hammer
The claw of a hammer is a versatile tool with multiple applications. Here are some common ways to utilize this often-overlooked part of the hammer.
Removing Nails
The primary function of the claw is nail removal. To remove a nail, position the claw over the nail head, with the curved part of the claw resting on the wood surface. Pull the handle toward you, using the curve of the claw as a fulcrum to extract the nail. For stubborn nails, you may need to rock the hammer side to side gently to loosen the nail before pulling.
Hard-to-Reach Nails: As Tom Silva explains on This Old House, when a nail is in a tight or low spot and you can’t get a straight claw under it, try using the side of the hammer head to get beneath the nail head at an angle. “Now I can get my claw, the side of my hammer in here and I can get under it. Now I get some good leverage and I can pull the nail right out and finish it off with the other end,” Tom says.
Shaping and Bending Materials
The claw can also be used to shape or bend thin metal sheets or wire. The claw’s curve provides a suitable form for creating gentle bends, while the gap between the tines can be used to grip and twist wire or small metal pieces.
Leveraging the Claw for Demolition Work
During demolition, the claw can be a powerful tool for prying apart materials. Insert the claw into gaps between boards or materials, then use the handle as a lever to separate them. This technique is particularly effective with straight-claw framing hammers, which provide greater leverage for heavy-duty tasks.
Advanced Techniques and Uses for the Hammer’s Claw
Here are some more advanced techniques and additional uses for a hammer claw.
The Carpenter’s Trick for Nail Placement
When you need to start a nail in a tight or hard-to-reach spot, the hammer’s claw can be a valuable aid. Insert the nail between the two hooks that form the claw, ensuring the nail head rests against the base of the hammerhead and the nail shaft is wedged into the claw. Hold the hammer backward—with the striking face toward you—and firmly swing to drive the nail point into the workpiece. Once started, turn the hammer around to drive the nail fully.
Prying Open Stuck Components
Another advanced technique involves using the hammer’s claw to pry open stuck or tightly fit components. Whether you are dealing with a stubborn window or a door, insert the claw in the narrow gap and apply gentle pressure until the component begins to shift. This method works well for various projects, from window restoration to door frame adjustments.
A Word of Caution: While the hammer claw is convenient for pulling nails because it’s already in your hand, TOH experts note that heavy-duty nail pulling is better left to dedicated tools. As This Old House Magazine has pointed out, “a major consequence of pulling nails with a hammer claw has been broken hammer handles.” For stubborn or deeply set fasteners, reach for a cat’s paw or flat pry bar instead — and when levering against finished surfaces, always place a scrap block under the hammerhead to protect the wood.
Upcycling and Reclaiming Materials
The claw of the hammer can be instrumental in upcycling or reclaiming lumber. Carefully insert the claw beneath embedded nails, staples, or other fasteners to remove them without damaging the wood. This technique is particularly useful for furniture restoration or crafting projects that utilize reclaimed materials.
Safety Considerations When Using a Hammer’s Claw
While the hammer’s claw is a versatile tool, it’s important to use it safely to prevent injury and damage. Always wear safety glasses when using a hammer, especially when removing nails, as they can fly unexpectedly. Keep a firm grip on the handle, and be mindful of your surroundings, particularly when swinging the hammer backward to start nails in tight spaces.
Pro Tip: Master carpenter Norm Abram advises always grasping a hammer near the end of the handle. As he wrote in TOH Magazine: “Gripping the middle of the handle increases stress on your wrist and reduces both the power and the accuracy of your swing.” A secure grip — with your fingers and thumb wrapped around the handle so the thumb overlaps the side of your forefinger — gives you the most control and helps prevent injuries.
When removing nails, place a piece of scrap wood under the hammer’s head to protect the surface you’re working on. This also provides better leverage and reduces the risk of the hammer slipping. Avoid using excessive force, as this can lead to loss of control and potential injury.
Maintaining Your Hammer’s Claw
If you take good care of your hammer, it should last for many years. After use, clean the claw to remove any debris or rust. For stubborn dirt, use a wire brush or steel wool. Occasionally apply a light coat of machine oil to prevent rust, especially if you work in humid conditions.
Inspect the claw regularly for signs of wear or damage. If the claw becomes misaligned or develops cracks, it’s time to replace the hammer. A damaged claw can be dangerous and ineffective, potentially causing injury or damaging your work.
Storing Your Hammer
Keep your hammer in a dry, clean location to prevent rust and other damage. Consider hanging it on a pegboard or storing it in a toolbox to keep it accessible when needed.
Sharpening the Claw
Over time, the claw of your hammer may become dull, reducing its effectiveness. Use a file to gently sharpen the inside edges of the claw, ensuring it remains effective for prying and nail removal tasks. Be careful not to remove too much material, as this can weaken the claw.
Choosing the Right Hammer for Your Project
Selecting the right tool for the job can make your project go more smoothly. Depending on how often you work with wood and fasteners, it may make sense to have at least two different types of hammers. Here are some things to keep in mind when shopping for a claw hammer.
Pro Tip: Tom Silva, TOH general contractor, recommends a 16-ounce hammer as the sweet spot for most homeowners: “You want to go to a 16 ounce hammer. This is a 16 ounce wooden, graphite or steel with a rubber grip. And they’re all trying to absorb” the shock you accumulate over a day of work. For rough framing, step up to a 22- or 28-ounce framing hammer with a longer handle and heavier head.
Factors To Consider
- Claw type: Curved claws are versatile for small tasks around the house. If you’re doing more extensive carpentry, including framing or demolition, you’ll want a straight claw.
- Face type: Smooth faces are best for finish work, while textured faces prevent slipping on nail heads.
- Handle material: Wood absorbs shock well, while fiberglass and steel offer durability. Some hammers have built-in anti-vibration technology with an ergonomic grip.
- Project requirements: Match the hammer to your specific task for best results.
- Weight: Heavier hammers provide more driving force but can be tiring to use for extended periods. If you use your hammer for work or very frequently, consider a hammer with a titanium head, which is much lighter than steel.
Pro Tip: When shopping for a hammer, look for a forged-steel head rather than a cast-steel one. As TOH master carpenter Norm Abram has warned, tiny particles of metal can chip off cast-steel heads and go flying. Quality hammers will be marked “tempered” or “heat treated,” which means the striking face has been hardened to withstand repeated blows. If you’re doing extensive work, titanium heads are roughly 45 percent lighter than steel and up to 10 times better at damping vibration.
