Project details
Skill
Cost
Estimated Time
Steps for Installing a Metal Railing
- Locate a local welding company to make the railings for the steps. This process usually takes up to three weeks.
- Measure roughly 4″ from the wall and 4″ from the edge of the steps to place the railing. Use a marker to trace around the edges of the railing. Use the coring drill to drill out holes for the railing. A scrap piece of stone can be used to guide the drill.
- Use the masonry drill to clean out the hole made by the coring drill.
- Dry fit the railings to ensure a correct fit.
- Pour a small amount of the anchoring cement into the mixing cup and add water. It will immediately begin to cure, so work quickly.
- Pour the anchoring cement into each hole. Clean up any excess cement with a damp sponge.
- Check the railing for level before the cement cures. Let it set up for 30 minutes.
- Add a bead of caulking around each hole to protect it from water.
Why Solid Steel Matters: Hollow metal railings are a common source of frustration — they loosen over time and feel flimsy to the touch. Mark explains that most wobbly railings are made from that hollow metal, which is why going with solid steel posts embedded deep into stone or concrete makes all the difference in long-term stability.
About Anchoring Cement: Anchoring cement, also known as nonshrink grout, is formulated to expand as it cures, forming a tight bond with the railing post and the surrounding hole. To prevent the cement from cracking, the hole has to be properly sized and cleaned out before pouring.
Pro Tip: Don’t skip the caulking step. When the anchoring cement sits lower than the stair surface, rainwater can puddle around the post — and that’s not good for steel. Over time, trapped moisture causes rust, peeling paint, and eventually holes in the metal that can compromise the entire railing. A bead of caulk seals out water and extends the life of the installation significantly.
What to Know About Anchoring Cement
Anchoring cement, also known as nonshrink grout, is formulated to expand as it cures and form a tight bond with the railing post and surrounding hole.
To prevent the cement from cracking, the hole has to be big enough to allow a ½-inch clearance between the side of the post and the side of the hole at every point.
Pro Tip: After setting railing posts in anchoring cement, allow at least three days of cure time before putting any load on the railing. As one This Old House project demonstrated, giving the cement adequate time to fully cure is essential — rushing the process can compromise the bond between the post and the surrounding hole.
Drilling the Holes: When drilling into stone or masonry for railing posts, use a coring drill rather than a standard bit. A regular drill can bounce around and damage the surface, so using a scrap piece of stone as a template helps keep the drill aligned until the hole is started. Once the hole is established, remove the template and continue drilling to the required depth. The coring drill leaves a plug behind that you can clean out with a regular drill bit.
Resources
A custom metal railing can be purchased from a welding shop. Mark recommended using one with solid steel posts. The one Mark installed was made by Mike’s Welding Company.
All the materials Mark used for this installation, including the caulking gun, the anchoring cement, and the coring drill, can be found at home centers.
Expert assistance for this segment was provided by MJM Masonry.
Tools
You may want to rent a core drill if you’re only doing the job for one entryway.
