How to Install a Dining Room Chandelier

Steps for Installing a Chandelier in a Dining Room:

1. Start by turning off the power to the room.
2. Next, identify the location for the light. In most cases, this will be in the center of the room, but consider the placement of the dining room table and if it should be centered over that (if the table is not in the center of the room).
3. To get the light perfectly centered in the room or over the table, measure the width and height of the area and mark the center point from both directions. You can use a piece of painter’s tape on the floor or on the table to mark the exact center of the room.
4. Use the plumb laser directly over the marks on the painter’s tape. This will display a red dot on the ceiling, which can then be marked as the location for the ceiling light.
5. Poke a small hole in the ceiling using the screwdriver. Bend the insulation rod to roughly 2 inches to accommodate for the 4 inches diameter of the electrical box. To help stay oriented, bend the bottom of the rod in the same direction.
6. Poke the insulation rod into the ceiling and spin it around. As long as the area above is clear, it’s safe to drill.
7. Drill a hole in the ceiling using a 4 inch hole saw and a dust shroud.
8. Run wires from the nearest power source up to the hole in the ceiling. This will requiring taping fish tape to the Non-metallic cable using electrical tape to help pull the wires through the ceiling.
9. Depending on where the hole is in the room, it’s likely that you’ll need to install an old work fan bracket between two joists, with the box centered over the hole. The box will need to be secured to the bracket using screws and the screwdriver.
10. Wire the light fixture to the wires through the ceiling and mount the fixture to the box.

Wiring the Box: When preparing the new electrical box, use a slotted screwdriver to pry one of the pre-punched knockout plugs from the side of the metal electrical box. If you’re using a box that doesn’t have an integral cable connector, fasten a nonmetallic (NM) connector to the knockout hole. Hold the box close to the ceiling, feed the end of the cable through the cable connector, and pull about 6 inches of cable into the box. Then tighten the connector screws to lock the cable in place, making sure the connector pinches down on the cable’s exterior sheathing.

Securing the Canopy: Once wiring is complete, carefully fold and tuck the wires up into the electrical box. Slide the chandelier’s canopy up the chain and press it tight against the ceiling, making sure the wires aren’t poking out from the canopy. Then push the retaining collar up the chain and thread it onto the chain holder.

Resources:

Heath installed the Newbury Manor Collection Bronze Chandelier, manufactured by Home Decorators Collection and sold at The Home Depot.

Heath used a plumb laser to locate the ceiling fixture, which was manufactured by PLS Laser.

All of the other tools and materials for this project, including an old work fan bracket, non-metallic cabling, lineman’s pliers, and needle nose pliers are available at home centers and electrical supply shops.

Expert assistance with this project was provided by Eaton and Eastman Electric.

Shop Chandeliers at The Home Depot

Shopping List:

Light fixture
Painter’s tape
14 gauge non-metallic cable
Electrical tape
Old work fan bracket

Available at The Home Depot

Why a fan brace? Because chandeliers are heavy fixtures, it’s often necessary to replace a standard electrical box in the ceiling—which has a maximum load rating of 50 pounds—with an expandable fan brace and heavy-duty electrical box that can support the added weight. The fan brace expands between joists and installs through the existing ceiling hole, making it the neatest and quickest approach.

Tools:

If Adding a Ceiling Medallion: You’ll want to add medium-grit sandpaper (to smooth the medallion’s center cutout), adhesive caulk, and mild dishwashing soap (to clean the ceiling before installation) to your tool list. You may also need a longer threaded nipple to attach the light fixture to the junction box, accounting for the medallion’s added thickness.

Additional Tools to Have on Hand: If you’re replacing an old electrical box, you may also need a fan brace, an adjustable wrench for tightening the brace, lineman’s pliers for spreading chain links, a 7/16-inch nut driver, and a close-quarter hacksaw for cutting out the old hanging bar. A stepladder is also essential for safe overhead work.