When it comes to aging in place, it’s better to do the work when you can, not when you need to. A couple wanted to move their laundry to the main floor. With the help of plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, master electrician Heath Eastman, and master carpenter Nathan Gilbert, the couple got the stackable washer and dryer they wanted, installed right on their main floor.
Where to Relocate a Washer and Dryer
When relocating a washer and dryer, it’s important to find an appropriate place. In many cases, a bathroom closet could be the perfect location, as there is typically plumbing nearby. Pay close attention to the doors and flow of the room to ensure there’s convenient access. In the case of our homeowners, it made more sense for the washer and dryer to open up into the hallway.
Before settling on a new location, take stock of what utility connections you’ll need. As discussed on a This Old House project, a washer requires hot and cold water supply lines plus a drain, while a gas dryer needs both a gas connection and an exhaust vent to the outside. Drainage is often the biggest variable in cost and complexity — especially in basements where drains may sit too high — so evaluate that first when choosing your new spot.
Pro Tip: On a recent This Old House project, contractor Heath noted that some homeowners choose to keep a secondary washer and dryer in the basement even after relocating their main set upstairs. “I see that more and more where that’s an option,” he said. The basement setup works well for dirtier items, pet laundry, or heavy loads you don’t want to drag through the clean house.
Why Upstairs Works: On a This Old House project, appliance expert Jan explained the logic of second-floor laundry placement: “It’s an ideal location. After all, the bedroom and the bathroom area’s where your dirty laundry accumulates. So if you put the laundry equipment on the second floor, you’re gonna save yourself an awful lot of steps. You don’t have to cart it back and forth all the time.”
Framing and Door Relocation
- Measure the Space for the New Washer and Dryer: Measure the closet to ensure that a new washer and dryer will fit in the location, and choose where you’ll access the front of the washer and dryer from. Measure for a door frame that will fit in an appropriate rough opening within the wall space.
- Remove the Existing Drywall: Once you know where the door will go, it’s time to remove the existing drywall. Mark out the space for the rough opening and remove the drywall using a combination of tools: hammer, utility knife, multi-tool, reciprocating saw, and a wet/dry vac. Remove the framing in the wall (as long as it isn’t a load-bearing wall) as well, according to the size and rough opening of the new door.
- Install a Flush Threshold: Framing removed from the wall often results in an uneven gap where the bottom plate once sat. Installing a flush threshold will allow you to slide the washer and dryer into place more easily. Do your best to flush it up with the top of the existing flooring.
- Reframe the Wall: Reframe the wall, leaving room for the rough opening. In some cases, you might have to use non-traditional framing lumber such as 2x3s for wall framing, depending on the age of your home and your existing wall thickness.
Pro Tip: Nathan, a This Old House carpenter, recommends installing a non-load-bearing header — two 2x4s on the flat — tucked up inside the wall above the rough opening. As he explains: “It’s really just gonna support the trim or any drywall.” To make room for it, mark 3 inches up behind the drywall above the opening, then use an oscillating tool to cut the existing studs at that mark so the header package tucks neatly inside.
- Frame the Door: Remove the door from the new door frame and place the door frame in the rough opening. Use wood shims and a level to ensure the door frame is plumb, square, and installed correctly before nailing though the jamb and into the framing behind.
- Install the Door: Once the door frame is ready, install the new door. Reuse the existing hinge holes if possible. Once installed, check for operation and to ensure it’s sitting plumb and level and not hitting the floor.
Relocating the Electric
- Check the Panel: The first step is to assess the panel. If the plan is to remove the old washer and dryer, you can reuse the existing circuits. However, if the old washer and dryer will remain in service, you’ll need to check for room in the panel for new circuits—a 20-amp 120-volt circuit and a double 30-amp, 240-volt circuit. If you’re unsure, a licensed electrician can help.
- Relocate Any Devices in the Way: You’ll need to relocate any devices that might be in the way, such as switches, outlets, and thermostats. Make sure that the circuits you’re working on are shut off at the panel and use a pen tester to ensure they’re not powered.
- Route and Pull Your New Circuits: Look for the easiest route for running the new circuits from the panel to the washer and dryer location. You’ll run two types of cable: 12/2 NM cable for the washer and 10/3 NM cable for the dryer. Be sure to staple them in place with wire staples to keep them safe.
- Install the Breakers: Before opening the panel, turn off the main power to the home and lock the breaker out if possible. Remove the panel cover and install the two new breakers in the box. If you’re unsure of how to wire a circuit to new breakers, it’s best to call an electrician.
Understanding the 240-Volt Breaker: The dryer’s 30-amp circuit breaker is a two-pole breaker, meaning it draws 120 volts from the left side of the panel and 120 volts from the right side, providing the dryer with 240 volts of electricity. Unlike the single-pole washer breaker that connects with just one wire, the dryer breaker requires two hot connections — a black wire and a red wire — in addition to the neutral and ground. This distinction is critical to get right, which is why calling in a licensed electrician is strongly recommended if you’re not experienced with panel work. - Install the Electrical Boxes and Wire the Outlets: Finally, install the electrical boxes in the laundry space and run the wires to them. Install the outlets (120V and 240V dryer outlet) according to code. Again, it’s best to turn this project over to an electrician if you’re not comfortable wiring a 240-volt circuit.
Relocating Plumbing
- Locate and Shut off the Water Supply: Find a suitable hot and cold water source and drain near the washer and dryer’s new location. Close the valves to the water supply and use a tubing cutter to cut the existing pipes. Install a copper tee fitting in each line so you can run it to the washer valve box.
- Install a Washer Valve Box: Code requires the installation of a washing machine valve box in the washer and dryer’s space. The supply lines tap into a valve in the box, which is then connected to the washer with hoses. The drain standpipe also connects to the valve box, with the washer discharge hose fitting inside the standpipe.
- Run the Piping: Next, run the piping from the supply pipes to the valve box. Working from the tee fittings you installed, carefully use a hand torch to solder pipes, fittings, and joints, ultimately reaching the washer valve box. Run a 2-inch P-trap from the drain pipe to the valve box, as well.
- Install the Dryer Vent: Look for an easy route for the dryer vent to exit the home. Install rigid vent pipe from the back of the washer to the ceiling, and then run a flexible dryer pipe to vent outside. You’ll need to drill a 3- or 4-inch hole and install a dryer vent, as well.
Install the New Washer and Dryer
Finally, it’s time to install the new washer and dryer. Simply push the new applicate toward the opening. Once close, attached the hose from the valve box to the washer and dryer. Also, plug in the electrical wires and attach the dryer to the vent. Finally, turn on the breakers and water supplies to ensure the washer and dryer works properly, without leaks.
Be sure to install an access panel on either side of the washer so you’ll be able to shut off the plumbing, change hoses, or adjust vent piping in the future.
Resources
Electric
- 4-in-1 precision electronics screwdriver to take off the thermostat cover
- 12/2 NM cable used to find a path to find the wires for the washing machine that would go upstairs
- 10 3 NM cable used to find a path for the wires as well
Plumbing
- Tape measure to measure the space
- Washing machine outlet box used for water connection
- Mesh sand roll to sand down the pipes
- Mini copper tubing cutter used to cut the pipes
- Hand torch used to heat up the pipes
- Flathead screwdriver
