How to Lay a Brick Path
Turn a swath of dirt into a ribbon of elegance in just one weekend
When crossing your muddy yard to fetch the daily paper turns into an obstacle course of slips and slides, perhaps it's time to think about an alternative path - literally. Instead of sinking up to your ankles in the name of the morning stock report, take a weekend to lay a brick walkway. The formal pavers will not only provide a clean and sturdy lane for visitors approaching your front door but they'll also add style to your landscape and value to your home.
As This Old House senior technical editor Mark Powers shows, in just one weekend you can turn a swath of dirt into a ribbon of elegance, able to withstand anything from a winter gale to a summer lawn mower. Then, by Monday morning you'll be able to retrieve the front page without having to reach for the thigh-high waders.
Creating a successful path that can survive the elements depends on three things: the bricks, the border, and the base. For the bricks, choose ones that are rated for severe weather (SW), often referred to as "clay pavers." These will not only stand up to the seasons but will also take a lot of foot traffic without cracking. The size of the bricks is determined in part by the pattern you choose. Modern "modular" brick measures 8 by 4 inches, and a well-designed walkway is between 3 and 4 feet wide (allowing two people to walk side by side). There are also old-fashioned "standard bricks," whose length is more than twice ¼ inch between—the tighter the better.
An integral part of every pattern is the border that keeps the bricks in place. Temporary 1x4 guide rails can hold everything in as you lay the bricks. But you still need a permanent border, traditionally created by bricks turned on end. If they are positioned on their short ends (this is called a "sailor course" if they're edge to edge, or a "soldier course" if they're face to face like dominoes), they can be buried deep enough to provide the necessary support. Turned on their long edge (called "drunken soldier"), however, as with the Colonial Williamsburg pattern shown in this process, the bricks won't have enough purchase in the ground to hold the path together. In that case, you'll need to keep everything in place with garden edging that extends at least 6 inches below grade.
Regardless of the shape of bricks you use, "a walkway is only as good as the base you put under it," says This Old House landscape contractor Roger Cook. Location is one factor in that base: Keep the path at least 2 to 3 feet away from trees with extensive root systems that could push the bricks up. But water is a more constant threat. "If the water can't drain properly, it will pool on the surface, and any freezing and thawing will cause the bricks to pop up," says Roger. To redirect runoff, you'll need to slope the walkway slightly to one side -
1/8 inch per foot across its breadth. Beneath the bricks, layers of graded base (a mix of crushed stone and stone dust) topped with sand allow for proper drainage. Both layers need to be tamped down to create a solid base, a job that can be done by hand, though for longer paths you should consider renting a plate compactor for about $80 a day.