How to Strip Years of Paint Off a House
paint removal
Photo: Keller & Keller
grinding
Photo: Keller and Keller
burning
Photo: Keller & Keller
infrared heat
Photo: Keller & Keller
Peel-Away
Photo: Keller & Keller
Methylene Chloride
Photo: Keller & Keller
RemovAll
Photo: Keller & Keller
Remove All
Photo: Keller & Keller
paint chip removal
Photo: Keller & Keller
pick a paint
Photo: Keller & Keller

To penetrate and remove the 10 layers of paint on the siding and trim at the Winchester project, painting contractor Jim Clark (shown here) and his crew used a newly developed, non-caustic stripper that breaks the bond between paint and wood. Before choosing their approach, they considered several methods, detailed in the following slides.

Grinding
(power sanding disk or clapboard sander)
Pros: Fast, efficient, leaves no residue on surface; relatively inexpensive (no chemicals to buy).
Cons: Only works on non patterned siding like clapboards. In inexperienced hands, can scar wood. Noisy; creates airborne dust that's a lead concern and requires a HEPA-filter mask. Some states require vacuum connection.

Burning
(heat plate or heat gun)
Pros: Relatively fast, thorough, and inexpensive (no chemicals to buy).
Cons: Can release some lead along with smoke, so a respirator is recommended. Biggest danger, though, is fire (often delayed when an ember under a clapboard ignites).

Infrared heat
Pros: Very fast (about 20-30 seconds exposure); low operating temperature won't ignite wood; removes all paint with one pass. Requires no mask, gloves, or goggles; inexpensive to operate (no chemicals to buy).
Cons: Not yet widely available; $395 initial cost.

Peel-Away
(available in different formulas, depending on paint type)
Pros: Generally quick to apply and nonflammable. Can be sprayed or brushed on. Most dissolved paint adheres to proprietary paper, which is peeled off.
Cons: Mixed results, often requiring second application; paper is extra hassle.

Methylene chloride-based chemical strippers
Pros: Very powerful and effective chemical. Sprayable or available as nonsagging gel that adheres to vertical surfaces.
Cons: Toxic—must be used with chemical-resistant gloves, respirator, and goggles. Requires ventilation indoors, and some formulations are flammable. Has also been classified by the EPA as a potential cause of cancer in humans.

RemovAll
Pros: Nontoxic-requires no gloves, mask, or goggles. Can be sprayed or brushed on and adheres well.
Cons: Slow-acting (one-hour minimum; best left on overnight); twice as expensive as methylene chloride.

RemovAll, developed in Canada to strip the finishes from jet planes, is sprayed onto the clapboards by crew foreman Volmar Oleivera. Painting contractor Jim Clark says, "If you're stripping your own house, buy an inexpensive airless sprayer from a home center. After you've sprayed all the stripper and removed all the paint, just clean the machine with water and you can use it again to paint the house."

Following the EPA's new guidelines, Massachusetts has reclassified residential lead-paint residue as household trash, which can be discarded with the rest of the rubbish. In the past, a licensed abatement contractor had to be called in. Check with your state's Department of Environmental Protection (DEP) to see if similar laws apply in your area.

Homeowner Kim Whittemore shows the color candidates to TOH general contractor Tom Silva. Rather than relying on small paint color chips, buy small cans of colors being considered and paint swatches on the siding.

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Final Choice

Ultimately, the product that won the day at Winchester was a water-based chemical stripper called RemovAll. It doesn't attempt to dissolve the paint as other chemical strippers do but instead breaks the bond between paint and substrate. Clark adds, "The best thing about the product, as far as my crew and I are concerned, is that it's nontoxic. No gloves, HEPA filter masks or respirators, no safety glasses. Spray it on in the late afternoon, let it sit overnight, and by morning the paint comes off in sort of rubbery sheets. We scraped it off easily with long-handled, 3-inch-wide putty knives." Most areas of the building took two coats of the stripper—not surprising considering the multiple layers of paint. The price of the RemovAll—about twice that of methylene chloride —was, Clark feels, outweighed by its environmental benefits.

As luck would have it, when the house was three-quarters finished, Clark was shown a revolutionary tool that may change his mind about how he strips paint from here on. It uses infrared rays to heat up the substrate behind the paint, totally loosening its bond to wood or metal. "The Silent Paint Remover" heats to a maximum temperature of only 500°F—well below wood's immolation point. "Hold it over an area for 20 to 30 seconds, give it a quick scrape, and all the paint layers come off down to the bare wood. It's lightning fast," said Clark. "We'll use it on the front of the house and the garage."

As with all stripping methods that involve scraping down to bare wood, some sanding is necessary before the first coat of primer goes on. "Scrapers have a tendency to burnish the wood, making it too smooth and shiny to take paint," says Clark. "We always hit all the surfaces with a random-orbit sander and 80-grit paper to get good tooth for that first coat of primer."

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