Nathan loves inspiring DIYers to take on projects, whether they’re brand new to woodworking or seasoned veterans. That’s why he built a fun, simple cookbook stand in our studio to share the process. You’ll need some basic tools, a limited amount of wood, and some simple techniques to build it, and Nathan will show you how.
Phase I: Cut the Pieces
The first step in the process is cutting the pieces to length and then cutting the lap joint. Here’s what you need to do.
Cut the boards to length
This project calls for three pieces of wood. Start by marking the 1×12 to 9 inches long and cutting it on the miter saw. Then, mark another length of 1×12 to 14 inches long and cut it on the miter saw. Finally, mark and cut the 1 ½ x ½-inch board to 11 ¼ inches long.
Each section represents a different part of the stand:
- 1x12x14 inches: back
- 1x12x9 inches: bottom
- 1 1/2×1/2×11 ¼: lip
Mark the slot’s location
Use the tape measure and speed square to mark the location of the joint. Follow these measurements:
- Bottom: Measure and mark three lines from the front of the board (the front and back of the board are the wider edges. Choose one for the front). Measure up 2 ¼ inches, 2 ⅝ inches, and 3 inches. Measure in from the edge of the board 5 ½ inches and mark the board.
- Back: Measure and mark three lines from the front of the board (the bottom and top are the smaller edges. Choose one to be the front). Measure and mark 3 inches, 3 ⅜ inches, and 3 ¾ inches. Measure in from the edge of the board and 5 ½ inches and mark the board.
Use these reference marks and the speed square to draw the slots on the boards. Place the speed square on the edge of the board and align it with the top and bottom marks, and then connect the top and bottom marks at the 5 ½-inch mark. Repeat on both boards.
Drill the holes
Install a ¾-inch Forstner bit into a power drill and align it so the point is on the board where the middle mark and 5 ½-inch mark intersect. Drill through the board. This hole will be the end of the slot. Repeat on the other board.
Cut the slots
Bring the boards to the miter saw. Align the lines for the slots with the blade. Make four cuts at these marks. Be careful not to cut all the way through as the cut will overrun the holes with most miter saws. Finish the cuts with the jigsaw to create clean, straight slots ending in a smooth, round hole. Test fit the boards to ensure they fit.
Phase II: Clean Up the Pieces and Attach the Lip
The next step is sanding the pieces to remove rough edges and allow the boards to slip past each other smoothly. Then, you’ll attach the lip.
Give the board a light sanding
Sand the boards lightly with the random orbital sander to remove any loose fibers, rough edges, and other debris. Start with 80-grit sandpaper and work up to 180-grit for a smooth surface. Remove the excess dust with a tack cloth.
Attach the lip
Apply a bead of glue to the front edge of the bottom board. Making sure to align the lip properly, place it on the front of the board and nail it in place with a finish nailer.
Chamfer the edges with a router
With a chamfer bit installed, chamfer all of the board edges with the router. This will create a smooth, clean look, make the boards more comfortable to handle, and prevent damage down the road.
Fill the nail holes
Mix some of the sawdust created throughout the project with wood glue to make a wood putty. Fill the nail holes with the wood putty. Allow it to dry and sand the lip again with a sanding block to remove any excess putty, glue, or dark marks from the router.
Phase III: Apply the Finish
The final steps of the project can go quickly, but take your time to get the best possible finish.
Wipe the boards
Once the glue and putty are dry and sanded, wipe the boards down with a tack cloth to remove any dust or dirt collected on top.
Apply the oil
Use a paint brush designed for oil to apply oil to the boards. Make sure to work it into the faces, edges, slots, and nooks behind the lip. Buff off the excess oil with a rag.
Once the oil is buffed off, the stand is ready for use. Be sure to reapply oil every so often (once or twice a year) to keep the stand protected and maintain its good looks. This simple design will last decades’ worth of great meals.
