Wood roof shingles offer a timeless look and, surprisingly, a long service life. For some homeowners (such as those living in historic districts), they may be a requirement. For others with a taste for tradition and charm, there’s no better option. But for this natural material to protect a roof and last as long as possible, it’s important to know how to install wood shingles properly.
Materials
- Wood shingles
- Plywood sheathing for repairs
- Drip edges
- Waterproof membrane
- 2 ¼-inch ring shank nails
Tools
Nail gun
What to Know About Wood Shingles
Wood shingles are quite durable, but they have some considerations. They protect the building by swelling when they get wet, preventing water from seeping between them. But it is necessary for them to have an opportunity to dry out, so adequate airflow between the bottom of the shingles and the roof deck is required. Without that airflow, the shingles can warp, split, or cup over time.
Keep in mind that wood shingles may not be an appropriate option for certain regions. In dry climates prone to wildfires, asphalt shingles, composite shingles, or metal roofing are often safer and more suitable options.
Another point to consider when installing wood shingles: When shingles swell, they move and butt up against the shingles next to them. For this reason, they need to be installed with a slight gap (around ⅛-inch) between them. The next course then spans across this gap, creating a waterproof system from a natural material.
How to Install Wood Shingles
1. Prepare the roofing deck. This means removing the existing shingles, inspecting the deck for damage, and making any necessary repairs to ensure the roofing surface is clean, flat, strong, and capable of bearing the weight of wet shingles.
2. Once the deck is strong, flat, and dry (very important!), install the drip edges. Start with the eave (the overhang) and then the rakes (the sloped sides) of the roof. The drip edge on the rakes should overlap the eave drip edge. If more than one piece is necessary, ensure the two sections overlap at least 6 inches, with the higher section overlapping the bottom.
3. Install the waterproof membrane next. Start at the eave, with the membrane overlapping the drip edge, following the manufacturer’s instructions, and the sides overlapping the drip edge on the rakes accordingly. Continue installing courses, overlapping the previous course, according to the manufacturer (there is usually a guide printed on the membrane). Use a roller to force out any bubbles and ensure good adhesion.
4. Install the nylon matrix ventilation mat across the roof, stapling it in place in 24- to 36-inch squares. Cut the course along the top of the drip edge so it’s not visible from the ground. Unlike other roofing materials, the courses of the nylon matrix do not need to overlap.
5. Establish proper overhang in one corner of the roof first. You’ll want to create a gauge block from scrap that’s 1 ½ to 1 ¾ inches, allowing you to quickly install a shingle to the right overhang on the eave. On the rakes, overhang the shingles ¾ of an inch. Once the first shingle is perfectly positioned, nail it in place with two nails, ensuring they’re at least 6 inches from the front of the shingle so they’re hidden under the next course, and ¾ inch from the edge of the shingle, and even more on the rake side.
6. Install a short course of starter shingles (around 4), and then double this course up with another set installed directly on top, creating a double layer. Ensure that there is a small gap of around ⅛-inch between each shingle, and that the gap is covered with a shingle in the next course. Again, nail above the reveal line, and ¾-inch in from the edge of the shingle.
7. Establish a 5 or 5 ½-inch reveal by measuring and marking a line across the starter shingles. Install the next course of shingles on this line, overlapping each gap by at least an inch. Repeat for four courses.
8. Lay a shingle across the top of the four courses and mark the bottom edge of each course on the shingle, creating a template to follow. Then, use the template to repeat the process on the other corner of the roof, creating a set of mirror courses.
9. Drive a small nail into the side of the starter course shingle at both rakes. Loop a string line around one nail, along the front edge of the starter shingles, and onto the nail on the other side. The string line will create a guide for installing the starter course and ensuring the roof stays square.
10. Finish installing the double course of starter shingles and the following courses, maintaining a consistent reveal. If shingles are too wide for the gap, find another shingle or trim them with a utility knife or block plane as you go.
11. Continue installing shingle courses up and across the roof, maintaining spacing between the shingles as well as the reveal, and making sure to overlap gaps between shingles with another course.
Enjoy Classic, Charming Looks for Decades to Come
Installing wood shingles requires an eye for detail. But, with consistency along the overhangs and reveals, paired with the nylon matrix ventilation mat, you’ll be able to install a wood shingle roof that performs as well as it looks. When installed correctly, wood shingles can last decades—aging gracefully while protecting the home beneath them.
