How to Build a Wall-Mounted Coatrack

A pileup of coats and jackets near the front door is never a welcoming sight. But if your house lacks a proper entryway–as many do–finding a spot to store this stuff can be challenging. Our solution? Build a low-profile, cottage-inspired coatrack.

This Old House general contractor Tom Silva made this coatrack from 1× lumber and embellished it with strips of fluted door casing. He used double coat hooks and wire storage baskets to hold mail and gloves, maximizing storage space. The board-and-batten-like design protects the underlying wall from dings and dents. Follow Silva’s steps below to make your own.

Step-by-Step Guide to Building A Coatrack

Before starting your project, set up a clean, well-lit workspace with ample room to maneuver. Ensure proper ventilation, especially when painting or staining. Always wear safety glasses when cutting wood or using power tools, and consider using a dust mask during sanding. Keep your work area tidy to prevent tripping hazards and maintain a safe environment throughout the project.

This coatrack measures 48-by-24 inches, but you can easily change the size to suit the space you have. Silva added a French cleat to the back side to make installation simple, so you’ll need a circular saw or table saw to make the bevel rip cut. If you don’t have one, fasten the piece directly to the wall by driving screws through the upper and lower cleats into wall studs or anchors.

French Cleat Detail: When making the French cleat, adjust the bevel angle on your circular saw to 25 degrees, and set the blade depth to slightly deeper than the board’s thickness. Cut the 1×3 upper cleat lengthwise to create two identical beveled strips. When attaching, lay the two outside 1×4s parallel on a flat surface and place one half of the French cleat across them, flush with the edges and 6 inches below the top. The cleat’s narrow face should rest on the 1×4s, with the square edge facing the top. Drill pilot holes, then attach with wood glue and trim-head screws.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

• 1×4 lumber (three 48-inch pieces)
• 1×3 lumber (two 24-inch pieces)
• ⅜-by-2⅜-inch fluted door casing (two 48-inch pieces)
• Wood glue
• 1¼-inch trim-head screws
• Double coat hooks
• Wire storage baskets (optional)
• Paint or stain of your choice
• Primer
• Casing

This project was originally designed by This Old House general contractor Tom Silva, who added a French cleat to the back side to make installation simple. As he noted, you’ll need a circular saw or table saw to make the bevel rip cut for the cleat. If you don’t have one, you can fasten the piece directly to the wall by driving screws through the upper and lower cleats into wall studs or anchors.

This project was featured as a “Home Center Project” in This Old House Magazine, meaning every material on the list can be picked up in a single trip to your local home center. The finished coatrack measures 48 by 24 inches, but you can easily adjust the dimensions to suit your space — just size the 1×4s and casings longer or shorter and adjust the 1×3 cleats to match.

Step 1: Crosscut the Parts

Use a miter saw to cut the seven boards to length.

• 1×4: 3 at 48″
• 1×3: 2 at 24″
• Fluted door casing: 2 pieces of 3/8 by 2 3/8 stock at 48″ long

Pro Tip: For fast, accurate crosscuts, use a miter saw paired with a stop block clamped to the fence. As featured in This Old House Magazine, clamping a piece of scrap wood to the fence acts as a stop, allowing you to make matching pieces without measuring every time. It also helps to have a list of all the cuts you’ll need ready ahead of time and to mark each piece’s length on the back after you cut it.

Step 2: Make a French Cleat

Adjust the bevel angle on your circular saw to 25 degrees, and set the blade depth slightly deeper than the board’s thickness. Cut the 1×3 upper cleat lengthwise to create two identical beveled strips.

Step 3: Attach the French Cleat

Lay the two outside 1×4s parallel on a flat surface and place one-half of the French cleat across them, flush with the edges and 6 inches below the top. The cleat’s narrow face should rest on the 1×4s, with the square edge facing the top (shown below). Drill pilot holes, then attach with wood glue and 1¼-inch trim-head screws.

Step 4: Install the Lower Cleat

Glue and screw on the 1×3 lower cleat, 6 inches from the bottom end of the 1×4s. Slide the third 1×4 beneath the cleats, centered between the outside 1×4s. Fasten it to the two cleats with wood glue and 1¼-inch screws.

Step 5: Add the Fluted Casing

Turn over the frame and position the fluted casing pieces so that they’re centered between the 1×4s. Attach the casings to the cleats with wood glue and clamp them in place until dry.

Sand all surfaces with 120-grit sandpaper, then prime and paint the coatrack.

Step 6: Paint the Wire Baskets

While the rack dries, coat the wire baskets with spray primer and paint so that they match the coat hooks. Allow the paint to dry for at least two hours.

Flip the baskets over and paint the other sides. Add a second coat of paint if desired.

Step 7: Install the Coat Hooks

Attach one coat hook to each 1×4, using the screws provided. Position the hooks about 9 inches down from the top end of the coatrack, and be sure each one is centered on the 1×4.

Step 8: Hang the Baskets and Install the Coatrack

Hold the baskets in place and mark positions for two cup hooks per basket. Screw the hooks into the 1×4s and hang the baskets.

Screw the other half of the French cleat to the wall, with its narrow face resting on the wall and its square edge facing down. Hang the coatrack on the wall-mounted cleat.