I have a leaky tub. And the temp of the water is hot so I replace the valve. I've replace a number of faucet stems, and yet once I got through it leaks as before . Everything is new,seat valve cartiledg
How should one procede to trouble shoot this?
What is the make of the faucet? Is it single lever or two handle?
Are other faucets leaking as well?
Check the water heater T&P valve, see if it's dripping. You may have too much pressure built up in your heater. Do you have a pressure relief valve (usually located where the main water supply enters the house)? If you have a pressure check device, check a few locations (in the washer, garden hose, etc) and report back with your findings.
It's a Gerber replacement made by Danco. No other leaks. two valves, hot and cold with an additional knob (shower diverter)
there was an additional washer not with the original I tried the faucet both ways with and without this washer ,no difference ( it goes between the flang that snugs up to the outside of the pipe and the pipe.) I did my best to insure that the seat wasn't cross threaded but it was not smooth screwing in ( this didnt concern me at the time the old seat was the nasiest seal for corosion I've seen.) I turned the seal counter clock wise as an engineer/mecanic once showed me until I felt the point of the tread click into place then I started screwing it in (clockwise) I didn'thave a normal seal wrench but used an allen wrench.
Anytime you replace the stems, it is advisable to replace the seats as well. Replace the old ones. You will need a special tool to unscrew the old ones out of the faucet body. Hope this will stop the leak.
sorry, dj1, you missunderstood me, I didn't explain very well. I did replace the seat. I was describing in detail how I replaced the seat. the old one was very rusty. so the tthreads that hold the seat were rough . I worked to clean the threads first and though rough everything seemed appropriate when I screwed inthe new seat.
At this point it looks like your new stem washers and seats don't give you a perfect seal, plus you have an old unit with rust and whatelse. If this happened to me, I'd replace the body. You will need an access to the body (from behind the wall). If you are unfamiliar, get a plumber to do it.
Your a gentleman and a friend to someone you've never meet.
Thank you for your help. Your answer wasnt the right one(tongue in cheek) or at least the oneI was hoping to get, but the unwelcomed truth is still a good thing.
I intend to check out the seat one more time.
If any one else has any ideas, I'm definitely open to them.
You're welcome, dwolf.
My assessment could be wrong, it's just my opinion based on the info you provided, without seeing and inspecting the situation and the problem, hands on.
Replacing the entire body is not that difficult, but you need experience in plummbing, because the last thing you want is a leak inside your walls. Most DIYs need help with a problem like this.
Common problem there is a chance you may have to rethread the threads to screw the seat in but before you go to that great length try putting a little teflon tape around the seat and a little pipe dope and tighten it up snug get the real wrench set so you can make sure you are tightening it up enough this has saved me a good 75% of the time on these but sometimes its so worn that the seat starts to slip and will need re-threaded or valve replaced but give that a shot let me know if it helps hopefully it takes care of BTW some of these valves have conversion kits that you can actually put in seats and stems that turn it into a cartridge style quarter turn instead of the old compression just a heads up.
Ben Franklin Plumbing Of Alpine
304 Meadowlark Drive, Alpine, UT 84004
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