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sonofbuster
self leveling epoxy against baseboards

hi,

first post regarding our first home. we just purchased a late 50's ranch with a partially-finished basement. the walls in the finished part of the basement are wood panels with suspected asbestos tiles on the floor. we originally planned on tearing out the panels due to past water damage (perimeter drain added at some point to remedy flooding) then laying down epoxy for the floor. after looking up and down and behind the panels, we decided on cleaning and painting instead as it's not as bad as we thought. for the floor, we'd like to encapsulate with a self-leveling epoxy such as ArmorGarage but i have a question:

is epoxy thick enough that it won't squeeze by the baseboards or should we tape it or otherwise seal the perimeter of the tiled floor? there are two doors leading to the mechanical rooms on either side so i figure those floors will have to be blocked off.

ultimately, we'd like to brighten up the basement and use it as a play area/rec area for our kid and us. thanks for any help!

HoustonRemodeler
Re: self leveling epoxy against baseboards

Dunno. Never used the stuff. What does the label say ?

Mastercarpentry
Re: self leveling epoxy against baseboards

Caulk the gaps then do the floor with as small a bead as will seal. Simple, cheap, fast, and far more effective than taping. Across openings where you want the coating to stop, lay a painted board braced in place- weighting it down is good enough- then caulk similarly. When the floor is dry the 'stop line' will be perfect and any caulking remnants easy to clean up.

Phil

sonofbuster
Re: self leveling epoxy against baseboards
HoustonRemodeler wrote:

Dunno. Never used the stuff. What does the label say ?

don't have the stuff, but i get what you're saying. will call the company and ask them.

off topic, i'm originally from Houston (born and raised) now up in the NE. don't miss the giant roaches!

Mastercarpentry wrote:

Caulk the gaps then do the floor with as small a bead as will seal. Simple, cheap, fast, and far more effective than taping. Across openings where you want the coating to stop, lay a painted board braced in place- weighting it down is good enough- then caulk similarly. When the floor is dry the 'stop line' will be perfect and any caulking remnants easy to clean up.

Phil

sounds like a good idea, Phil. thanks!

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