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Creating a hand-stitched leather tote is a rewarding project that combines craftsmanship with functionality. This timeless accessory serves as a stylish carryall but also showcases premium leather. With the right tools and techniques, even beginners can craft professional-looking totes that will last for years. Ask This Old House host Kevin O’Connor joins expert maker Jimmy DiResta to explore the process of creating a hand-stitched leather tote from start to finish.
Choosing the Right Leather for Your Tote
Selecting the best leather is crucial for the success of your tote project. The quality and type of leather you choose will affect both the appearance and durability of your finished bag.
There are several types of leather you can use for making totes:
- Full-grain leather: The highest-quality option, known for its durability and natural appearance
- Top-grain leather: A more refined leather with a consistent texture
- Vegetable-tanned leather: An eco-friendly option that develops a beautiful patina over time
Essential Tools for Leather Tote Making
Before beginning your project, gather the below tools to help you complete this project.
Cutting Tools
- Razor knife with replaceable blades
- Steel ruler or straight-edge
- Rotary cutter (optional for long, straight cuts)
Stitching Tools
- Stitching fork or pricking iron
- Leather needles
- Waxed thread
- Awl for marking and creating pilot holes
Finishing Tools
- Edge beveler
- Burnishing tool
- Edge coat or gum tragacanth
Creating the Leather Tote Pattern
Developing an accurate pattern is the foundation of a well-crafted leather tote. This step gives your finished tote the shape and proportions you want.
Measuring and Drafting
Using a sample bag with the desired size and shape as a guide can help streamline the measuring and drafting process.
- Find a sample bag with the desired size and shape, such as a canvas bag that Jimmy uses
- Lay the bag flat on a large sheet of thick paper
- Trace the outline of the bag onto the paper
- Refine the shape as needed, making sure it is symmetrical
Transferring the Pattern to Leather
Once you have your paper pattern, it’s time to transfer it to your leather sheet:
- Place the pattern on the face side of the leather hide
- Trace along the edges with a fine marker or scratch awl
- Use a sharp razor knife to carefully cut out the body of the bag, following your traced lines
Shape and Bend the Leather
Once you have the pattern completely cut out, shape the leather by folding it with your hands. Push down only the folds with an open palm — leather is pliable, but it will take some elbow grease. If you need to use the skive to trench out a portion of the leather on the inside to help it bend more easily.
Once it starts taking shape, you can lightly tap the leather with a rubber mallet along the folds to get a cleaner and more rigid edge.
Preparing the Leather for Stitching
Before you start stitching, grab your divider tool to mark your stitch lines parallel to the edges on the tote bag.
Marking Stitch Lines
Use dividers set to your desired setback (typically 3/16 to 1/4 inch) to mark stitch lines along the edges of your cut leather pieces — use light pressure. This gives you a guide for your stitching holes.
Punching Stitch Holes
- Place the stitching fork on the marked line
- Tap the handle of the fork to drive the tines through the leather
- Continue this process, aligning the first tine with the last hole made, until you’ve punched holes along all stitch lines
Hand-Stitching Techniques for a Leather Tote
Hand-stitching gives your leather tote an artisanal touch and adds durability. Saddle stitching is a reliable method Jeff often uses for this purpose.
Saddle Stitch Method
- Cut a length of waxed thread about 3–5 times the length of your seam
- Thread a needle onto each end of the string
- Begin stitching from the outside of the bag, pushing each needle through adjacent holes
- Cross the threads inside the bag and bring them back out through opposite holes
- Continue this pattern, maintaining even tension, until you reach the end of the seam
Securing the Stitches
To ensure your stitches stay put:
- Backstitch a few holes at the end of each seam
- Tie off the thread securely inside the bag
- Apply a small amount of PVA glue to the knots for extra security
Attaching the Handles
Sturdy handles are essential for a functional tote bag. Using rivets to attach the handles makes it strong and gives it a nice decorative element.
Cutting and Positioning Handles
- Cut two strips of leather for handles, each 12 to 16 inches long
- Position the handles on the bag, marking where you want to attach them.
Riveting the Handles
- Punch holes through both the handle and the bag body
- Insert copper rivets through the holes
- Use a rivet setter to secure the rivets in place
- Trim any excess rivet length and flatten with the setter
Finishing Touches
The final steps in creating your leather tote involve adding professional touches that elevate the overall look and durability of the bag.
Edge Finishing
Apply an edge coat to the raw edges of the leather to give your tote bag a polished look. This makes it look nicer, helps prevent fraying, and extends the life of your tote.
Adding a Maker’s Mark
Consider adding a personal touch by stamping your maker’s mark onto the bag. You can do this with a custom leather stamp, which adds a professional flair to your handcrafted tote.
Our Conclusion
Following Jimmy DiResta’s process to create a hand-stitched leather tote is a fulfilling project that combines craftsmanship with practicality. With the right tools, quality leather, and attention to detail, you can make a beautiful, durable bag that you will appreciate for many years. It may even spark an interest in you to make more bags as a business or a hobby.
Materials
- Leather hide
- Large sheet of thick paper
- Waxed string and leather needles
- PVA glue
- Rivets
- Edge Kote leather edge finish