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Weathering the Storm
laying a bead of caulk on casing
Photo: Keller & Keller Photography
tipping storm window in place
Photo: Keller & Keller Photgraphy
screwing the storm window's edges
Photo: Keller & Keller Photography
tapping the extender into place
Photo: Keller & Keller Photography
Photo: Keller & Keller Photography
raising and lowering the storm window
Photo: Keller & Keller Photography
storm window illustration
Illustration: Ian Warpole
storm window illustration
Illustration: Ian Warpole
storm window diagram
Illustration: Ian Warpole

1. Double-check the storm window's fit (see "Ensuring a Proper Fit" on page 3 of this article) by centering it in the opening and making sure all the screw holes in the fins land on solid wood. Lay a fat bead of butyl or elastomeric caulk on the casing where the storm's fins will be attached. (Do not use silicone, which makes future repairs or replacement more difficult.) Do not caulk the sill.

2. Tip the storm into place and center it from side to side in the opening. Then push it up until its stop hits the bottom edge of the head casing. Drop down about 1/8 inch, so the casing has room to expand with seasonal changes in humidity. Drive the first screw into place at the top fin's center hole.

3. Center the storm's bottom edge and drive two screws into the lowest holes on the side fins, but do not tighten them yet. Drive and tighten the remaining screws around the perimeter. Slide the sash up and down; if they catch, rub, or jam, it's a sign that the frame isn't square. Loosen the side screws, adjust the frame slightly to one side or the other, and try sliding the sash again.

4. Place a straight-tip screwdriver or putty knife at the bend in the bottom sill extender at one side of the storm. Use a hammer to gently tap the extender until it rests against the sill. Repeat on the opposite end.

5. On one side of the storm, drive a screw at an angle into the sill next to the extender so that the screw's head traps the extender's lip. Repeat on the extender's opposite side. Tighten the bottommost screws on the side fins.

6. With the storm secured, raise and lower all the sash one more time to make sure they are operating smoothly. Maintenance on metal storms is minimal. Just wash the glass periodically and make sure the weep holes in the bottom of the frame aren't clogged.

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It's a familiar story. Your old windows leak copious amounts of air, which makes for chilly drafts in the winter and higher cooling costs in the summer. Leaky windows may even be hurting your house by allowing windblown rain to seep into the structure.

Time for new windows? Not necessarily. High-quality storm windows may be all you need to banish leaks, at a fraction of the cost of replacement windows. "A good storm stops air infiltration about as well as most replacement windows, and the upfront costs are much lower," says This Old House general contractor Tom Silva. "It's like putting money in your pocket."

The typical aluminum "triple-track" — so called because it holds two glass sashes and one screen that slide up and down on separate tracks — won't win any beauty contests, but it can also play an important preservation role by protecting valued old-house windows from the elements.

On the following pages, Tom demonstrates how to measure for and install an aluminum exterior storm over a double-hung window. (Outward-swinging casement or awning windows require interior storms.) Tom has the window up in less than 10 minutes, but while installation is simple, he says, there are still ways to mess it up. "The most common mistake people make is to caulk the storm's bottom edge, along the windowsill," he says. That can trap water that leaks in or condenses on the inside of the glass. "You want to give water a chance to escape before it causes any damage."

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Step By Step: How to Install a Window
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