Make This Old House My Homepage
All About Grout
Photo: John Lawton
tile grout
Photo: John Lawton
tile grout
Photo: John Lawton
cleaning tile grout
Photo: John Lawton
cleaning tile grout
Photo: John Lawton
cleaning tile grout
Photo: John Lawton
cleaning tile grout
Photo: John Lawton
cleaning tile grout
Photo: John Lawton

Grout is forced into the spaces between tiles with a rubber tool called a float. The excess is wiped away with a wet sponge, leaving joints filled to just below the surface. After the grout cures rock-hard, the tiles are polished with a soft cloth to remove any "grout haze" left behind.

Epoxy grout is more expensive and more difficult to apply, but its durability makes it a good choice for high-traffic areas.

Choosing very different tile and grout colors can provide a striking contrast.

Worn and blackened, the grout on a kitchen counter and backsplash first gets a dose of powerful degreaser. "Never clean tile and grout with an oil-based soap," Parker says. "The wax in them builds up and stains grout."

A steam cleaner brings stains to the surface, where Parker and Thorp wipe them up. Homeowners can rent steam machines, but a stiff-bristle nylon brush and a degreaser also do the trick.

To remove failed grout, Parker uses a utility knife on thin, unsanded joints and a diamond-encrusted grout saw on sanded joints. "Just skimming over the old grout with new doesn't work," she says. "You have to remove at least half the depth of the old stuff before the new will bond to it."

The next step is to regrout the missing areas. Parker mixes up a batch and spreads it with a float. Most old grout is white, which makes color-matching relatively easy. In high-moisture areas, such as around faucets, and wherever tile abuts a dissimilar material, caulk is needed to keep out water.

When the grout has cured for several days, Parker returns to brush a penetrating sealer on the joints. "People are amazed after we've finished a job," she says. "One guy thought we had completely retiled his bathroom."

Browse Tile Galleries:

How-To Video

Browse More

How to Replace a Wall Tile

In this how-to video, This Old House tile contractor Joe Ferrante replaces cracked ceramic tile

Advertisement

On Newsstands Now

In the Magazine
November - Refresh your rooms with color
boy on radiator kitchen sideboard painted accent wall colonial dining room dog bed ramp
Advertisement

When grout does its job — locking tiles tight, keeping out water, and giving floors and walls a finished look — nobody pays much attention. It's only when grout fails, becoming stained, cracked, or falling out altogether, that people take notice.

But grout deserves more respect. "Not only does grout fill the voids, it makes the floor, wall, or countertop stronger by bonding the tiles together and preventing the edges of a tile from chipping and cracking," says David Goodman, the tile contractor for This Old House's Nantucket project.

Cement-based grout

Grout comes in two basic types, and the choice of which one to use depends not on the tiles but on the width of the joints between them. Narrow joints of 1/8 inch or less call for unsanded grout, a pudding-smooth blend of Portland cement and powdered pigments mixed with water. Joints wider than 1/8 inch get sanded grout — the same material, but with sand added. The sand helps bulk up the grout and keeps it from shrinking in the joints.

Three decades ago, when he started in the business, Goodman says, "we'd just add powdered grout to a bucket of water and away we'd go." But older cement-based grout was brittle and prone to cracking. It also dried irregularly, leaving colors inconsistent. Today's grouts use polymer additives, which ensure color quality and increased flexibility, allowing for joint widths of up to 1 1/4 inches. Those wide joints come in handy for camouflaging irregularities in handmade tiles and for bridging the varying thicknesses of tile in some patterned installations.

Despite their improved performance, however, all cementitious grouts are porous and subject to staining. That's why manufacturers and installers recommend sealing grout after it has cured for a couple of days and is completely dry. Sealers come in two varieties: membrane-forming and penetrating. The first type is prone to peeling or getting cloudy when residual moisture from mastic or underlayments pushes to the surface of the tile. Penetrating sealers, which still breathe after soaking into tile and grout, are preferable. Goodman sometimes invites customers to save on labor costs by sealing the grout themselves. "I give them some cotton swabs or a disposable brush, along with a can of sealer, and make them promise me they'll finish the job."

Page:  12345 Next
Article: The Cure for Grout
Sign Up for Our Free Newsletters

Comments

Post a Comment


Need More Info? Ask a question on Tile