Make This Old House My Homepage
Making Your Shower Safer
removing the tub spout with a pipe wrench
Photos by : Merle Henkenius
removing the tub spout with a pipe wrench
cutting a hole behind the old tub faucet
copper water-supply pipes
enlarging the existing faucet holes
copper pipes
soldering copper pipes
concealing the drywall cutout with tape and joint compound

REMOVE THE OLD tub spout with a pipe wrench, if it's threaded on. If it's held on by a set screw, remove the screw and pull the spout straight off.

CUT AN ACCESS hole into the wall behind the old tub faucet. Start the hole 6 in. above the faucets and extend it 8 in. below the tub spout.

TO EXTRACT THE old faucet, use a miniature tube cutter or close-quarter hacksaw to slice through the copper water-supply pipes.

ENLARGE THE existing faucet holes with either a sabre saw or rotary tool. For the Monitor II, make the left hole 21/4 in. dia. and the right 31/2 in.

AFTER SOLDERING pipe stubs onto male adapters, wrap the threads with Teflon tape and tighten them into the inlet and outlet ports on the pressure-balance valve.

CAREFULLY solder each pipe fitting with lead-free solder. Note that both the hot- and cold-water pipes are connected to the same side of the valve.

ONCE THE drywall cutout is back in place, conceal it with paper tape and joint compound. Sand lightly between coats, then paint.

APPLY A THIN bead of silicone caulk around the tub spout and faucet trim plates. Wipe away any excess before it skins over.

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You're in the shower, doing your best imitation of a Top-40 pop star. Suddenly that warm, relaxing shower turns too hot to handle, causing you to jump back to avoid the scorching water. The cause? Someone in the house has flushed a toilet. If the situation sounds familiar, then you need to install a pressure-balance valve in your shower.

These pressure-balancing devices prevent "shower shock" by automatically adjusting for temperature fluctuations whenever water?cold or hot?is diverted from the tub or shower, such as when someone starts up a load of laundry or flushes a toilet. Even in an instance when the water pressure drops drastically, a pressure-balance valve ensures that the water temperature doesn't change by more than 3° F.

Antiscald devices have been required in hospitals and nursing homes for decades. Now, 31 states have enacted, or will do so soon, legislation requiring pressure-balance valves in all residential remodeling and new-construction projects.

Antiscald devices are a wise investment. According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, each year some 200,000 Americans suffer injuries caused by sudden changes in water temperature while they're bathing. Everyone is in danger of getting scalded or falling as they try to escape the hot water, but young children, the elderly and the physically challenged suffer the most injuries.

BALANCING ACT
Until recently, single-handle pressure-balance valves were the only models available; these are fine when replacing a single-handle inner valve or for a full-scale remodel, but they're not very well suited to changing over an existing two-handle faucet. To hide the empty handle holes, you have to install an enormous trim plate, which isn't particularly attractive.

For that reason, we chose the Delta Monitor II (about $260), the first two-handle pressure-balance valve. But, unlike a standard two-handle faucet, which has separate hot- and cold-water handles, the right handle of the Monitor II controls water temperature and the left handle controls water volume. It features a polished-chrome-and-brass finish, and includes a matching tub spout and showerhead.

For our project, we removed a two-handle, 8-in. centerspread faucet through a hole we cut in the back side of the shower wall. We also enlarged the existing handle holes in the acrylic tub surround with a sabre saw to accommodate the Monitor II. If the walls of your shower are covered with ceramic tile, enlarge the holes using either a rotary tool with a 1/8-in.-dia. carbide bit or a sabre saw with an abrasive-grit blade.

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