Go From an Old Deck to New in 4 Steps

By: Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk (Page 6 of 7)

AFTER: Most decks can be rejuvenated for a lot less than the cost of replacement.

BEFORE: The damage and the appearance were bad enough for the Johnsons to consider ripping the whole thing up and starting over.

Used a pry bar to pull damaged boards. Remove fasteners and lift the board straight up to avoid damaging adjacent boards.

If you need to rip replacement decking to match existing boards, use a tablesaw. Ease the sawn edge using a router fitted with a 3/8-in. roundover bit.

Trim the replacement boards with a circular saw. Using adjacent boards as a cutting guide is faster and more accurate than measuring.

A power washer is best for removing sun-damaged wood fibers and for tackling scrub-resistant stains.

Use a brush to work the cleaner into the wood fibers. The boards should be kept damp in order for the cleaning solution to work effectively.

Mesh filters (about $1 each) catch any particles that could wind up clogging the nozzle on the washer.

A sprayer quickly lays the stain on the wood. To avoid making lap marks, maintain a wet edge and finish only a few boards at a time.

Use a 2-in.-wide brush to take care of any drips, cut in around the finished posts and apply extra stain to exposed end grain. A wider brush can be used to work the stain into the wood in the field.

After cutting the end post flush with the deck using a reciprocating saw, remove the old railing in sections.

The hollow post in this system slides onto the 12-in.-high aluminum base. Shim the bottom of the base as necessary so the post is plumb.

After you attach the bottom rail and insert the composite 2x2s into their precut mortises, wiggle the balusters into the top handrail. Instead of using toenails, the Fiberon rail attaches to the post with self-locking flanges for a fastener-free finish.

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Choosing the Right Cleaner

There are dozens of deck-cleaning products on the market. Most contain one of the following four chemicals as their main ingredient. Each is effective for different types of stains.

Sodium hypochlorite: This chemical -- chlorine bleach -- is good for removing mildew but isn't effective on dirt or other stains. So mix it with an ammonia-free detergent. Thoroughly rinse the deck after using this chemical because it can eat away at the wood, resulting in fuzzing and premature graying.

Sodium percarbonate: When mixed with water, this chemical forms hydrogen peroxide (an oxygen-based bleach) and sodium carbonate, which acts as a detergent. It is good for removing dirt, mildew and weathered wood.

Oxalic acid: This is effective in removing iron stains and the brown-black tannins that frequently occur with cedar and redwood decks. This acid is commonly found in deck brighteners. Oxalic acid isn't effective against mildew, so you may want to use it after cleaning the deck with a bleach-based cleaner.

Sodium hydroxide: Also known as lye, this is the key ingredient in most finish lifters or removers. Don't leave it on too long, or it can eat away at the wood.

Be very careful when working with any of these chemicals, especially when they're in their most concentrated (premixed) form. Wear the proper safety equipment and follow the manufacturer's directions to the letter. Rinse the surface thoroughly and allow it to dry before refinishing.

D-I-Y CLEANER
Here's a deck cleaner you can make yourself. Recommended by the U.S. Depart-ment of Agriculture Forest Products Laboratory, it's good for mildew and dirt.

•1 qt. sodium hypochlorite solution (household bleach) •1/3 cup powdered laundry detergent •3 qts. warm water

In a 5-gal. plastic bucket, add the bleach and detergent to the water, then brush the cleaner onto the deck. Rinse thoroughly before applying a finish.

Caution: Do not use a detergent that contains ammonia. Ammonia and bleach react to form a poisonous gas.