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Working with Linoleum Flooring
Sheet linoleum flooring
Joe Yutkins
Tom Silva installing a linoleum floor with a border stripe
Joe Yutkins
natural linoleum ingredients
linoleum tiles
Joe Yutkins
1943 Armstrong linoleum advertisement
Joe Yutkins
linoleum for walls
Joe Yutkins

Sheet linoleum with a custom inlaid border covers the mudroom floor of the 1993 This Old House project house, a 1906 Shingle Style in Belmont, Massachusetts. Six years later, Tom Silva says, "There's not a sign of wear anywhere. It looks just like the day it was installed.

Tom Silva demonstrates how he uses a hard-rubber J-roller to press down the seams of a border stripe, which is inlaid into a sheet of linoleum.

To turn liquid linseed oil into a floor covering durable enough to withstand decades of shoe scuffs and dog toenails, linoleum manufacturers still follow Frederick Walton's original recipe: Stir melted tree resin into a tank of boiled linseed oil heated to 175 degrees Fahrenheit. Alternately heat and cool the tank until its contents turn into a sticky viscous paste called linoleum cement. Extrude in a thick pastalike strand, then cut, cool, and store in chalk-dusted iron boxes. Blend the dry ingredients — wood flour, powdered cork, pigments, and powdered limestone—and mix with the linoleum cement in a series of double-screw extruders, or "sausage makers." Heat this mixture; then feed into the calenders, pairs of powerful rollers that flatten the raw linoleum onto a jute backing and create the desired pattern. Now hang the sheets, each about 5 miles long, in a 160-to-195-degree seasoning room, and wait two to four weeks for them to toughen. Finally, seal the porous surface with an acrylic finish.

Linoleum spans the color spectrum. One company makes sheets and tile in 147 different shades, both marbled and solid.

Armstrong touted linoleum's ease of care in a 1943 advertisment.

In 1877, fourteen years after his patent on linoleum flooring, Frederick Walton used essentially the same ingredients to come up with a durable wallcovering stuck to a paper backing. Called Lincrusta, its heavy, crisply embossed rolls and panels found a place in many middle-class houses both as faux-plaster friezes, insert, and as highly decorative dadoes. The British manufacturer still uses the original brass and iron rollers to create the elaborate patterns—from restrained Regency swags to florid Victorian foliage. Lincrusta goes up like wallpaper but requires special care because of its weight and thickness. Once up, it also needs two coats of oil-based paint to seal the surface and disguise the seams.

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How to Patch Strip Flooring

In this how-to video, This Old House general contractor Tom Silva shows how to repair a hardwood-strip floor

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Laying Linoleum

Almost anyone can lay linoleum tiles, according to Walt Bamonto, who's been installing flooring in upstate New York for 30 years. Just spread swaths of latex adhesive on the floor with a notched trowel, snug the tiles against each other, and flatten with a 100-pound roller.
Laying sheet linoleum is another story. To achieve tight seams, Bamonto first trims seam edges with a two-bladed beveled edge trimmer. "Factory edges aren't good enough," he says. And when he unrolls sheets into the adhesive, he leaves 18 inches adhesive-free at each end. Why? "When it hits the glue, linoleum shrinks in length and expands in width," Bamonto says. So he waits a half hour for the material to stabilize, before overlapping the next sheet. Then, pulling both sheets back slightly, he trowels on the adhesive and traces the edge of the lower piece onto the top piece using a special seam-scriber tool. A cut along the scribe with a hooked knife leaves a gap the width of his blade but, Bamonto says, "it closes right up." The adhesive takes 24 hours to set firmly enough to support furniture. Park a table or chair on it too soon, Bamonto warns, and the floor will have dimples forever.

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