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Painting Kitchen Cabinets
after photo of kitchen cabinets
Photo: Geoffrey Gross
cabinets; before & after
Photo: Geoffrey Gross
painted cabinets
Cleaning cabinets; surface prep before painting
sanding; surface prep for painting
removing doors before painting
fill the holes
Cleaning the cabinets
apply the primer
Photo: Geoffrey Gross
smooth topcoat

Colors for cabinets and walls that complement each other are more pleasing to the eye than dramatic color differences.

These site-built cabinets from the 1960s still had years of service ahead of them, but their look was outdated.

Transformed by paint and new hardware, the cabinets now the focal point of a brighter, more welcoming kitchen.

To paint the cabinets, painter Vytas Misenis, of Woodbury, Connecticut, starts with a wash to remove dirt and grease and ensure a good bond between the old surface and new paint.

Sanding prepares the surface for a primer coat by removing any remaining surface grime and giving the old wood "tooth."

Misenis will move these doors to the garage for prepping and painting, minimizing mess inside the house.

Fill nail holes and other defects, and then sand them smooth. You might need to put on a second application of filler after the primer has dried.

An orbital sander makes more dust but speeds up the job, and in the garage the extra mess doesn't matter.

After you have removed the sanding dust, apply the primer.

A smooth topcoat is the reward for careful prep work. Misenis uses a high-quality natural-bristle brush and finishes with long strokes for a finished surface that doesn't show brush marks.

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Ready for Paint

After the tedium of cleaning, filling and sanding, picking up a paintbrush will seem like a reward: A new surface and a new color are about to emerge. If cabinets are heavily stained, use a stain-blocking primer such as B-I-N, a tinted shellac made by Wm. Zinsser & Co. It dries quickly and seals knots and other surface defects that might bleed through the topcoats. But in most situations, according to Harrison Paint's Shinn, stain-blockers should not be necessary. He suggests either an alkyd or 100 percent acrylic latex primer. If you have stripped cabinets to bare wood, Bonadies recommends using an underbody, a special type of primer that fills minor surface imperfections. This will produce a smoother finished surface.

After the primer or underbody has dried, a light sanding with 150- or 180-grit sandpaper will remove dust nibs and other imperfections before the topcoats are applied. The surface should be wiped down after sanding. One coat of primer is all that's needed.

And, finally, it's time for the payoff. Whether you've chosen oil or latex as the topcoat, don't skimp by buying cheap paint. This is one of those cases where you really do get what you pay for. Latex paint should be applied with a synthetic-bristle brush, which does not absorb water; oil-based paint should be applied with a natural-bristle brush. Gloss paint offers greater protection and holds up to scrubbing better than a semigloss or eggshell sheen.

If you are repainting in roughly the same shade, a primer coat and two finish coats ought to do it. You might even get away with one coat over an underbody primer. But painting over a dark finish with a light color is tougher. It could take a primer and three finish coats. Even so, it's a small price to pay for a kitchen that will look almost new.

Article: Kitchen Face-Lift
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