Follow This Old House online:

Sunken living rooms were all the architectural rage during the middle of the last century in the United States, and today they’re making a comeback. Find out what they are exactly, why they became so popular and eventually fell out of favor, and whether you should consider including one as a special feature of your home.

by Nancy Fann-Im
Sunken living room, Home
iStock

If you’ve ever watched The Mary Tyler Moore Show or Mad Men, you may have spotted an interesting architectural feature: the sunken living room. This is a section of the room that’s recessed from the rest—sort of like an alcove in the floor—to create an intimate nook that’s perfect for entertaining. (This is why sunken living rooms are also called “conversation pits.”) They were a bona fide mid-century trend, and some homes today have retained this unique element.

If you have an older house that boasts a sunken living room, you may be wondering, “can you can get rid of a sunken living room?” On the other hand, you may be a fan of this design and thinking about building one into your home. A sunken living room comes with its shares of pros and cons, so it may not be for everyone. We’ll get into the details, including the history of sunken living rooms and how to modernize them for homes today. Whether or not the sunken living is here to stay remains to be seen, but the fact that this design style has resurfaced after decades speaks to its enduring appeal.

Related

16 Minimalist Living Room Ideas

What is a Sunken Living Room?

Sunken living rooms from the ’60s and ’70s generally resembled a separate room or space submerged below ground level—but without the use of walls. They often featured a short set of stairs to step down to the lower level, which could be a few inches or several feet below. Typically, at least one part of the perimeter was edged with a customized sofa, and a fireplace served as the pit’s focal point. The intention was to create an intimate space for having conversation, sipping drinks, and hanging out. 

History of the Sunken Living Room

Bruce Goff, an American architect mentored by Frank Lloyd Wright, is credited with designing the first sunken living room in 1925, before he turned 20 years old. The designer, who became renowned for his inventive and eclectic home and commercial designs, created this innovative room for an Art Deco home in Tulsa, Oklahoma. The historic house is privately owned today and undergoing restoration, with many of the unique structural designs and details kept intact—including the original sunken living room.

But it wasn’t until decades later that the design took off. In 1957, architect Eero Saarinen and designer Alexander Girard incorporated it into a private home in Columbus, Indiana. In 1962, Saarinen went on to add a large sunken waiting area to the influential design of the TWA terminal in New York’s John F. Kennedy airport. 

Conversation pits became a bona fide trend during the middle of the last century, bolstered by the increasing popularity of ranch homes as a suburban architectural style. Installing a sunken living room helped counterbalance a ranch’s open floor plan and low ceilings, delineating certain areas and making the room look more spacious. Just as quickly as this trend rose into the zeitgeist, however, it fell out of favor and became dismissed as a fad of the era.

Fast-forward to today: Mid-century interior design is experiencing a resurgence and open-floor plans are once again in vogue. Sunken spaces are returning as a niche element that defines boundaries and creates a signature look. Contemporary versions tend to resemble elegantly lowered spaces rather than a large hole in the ground, with a transition that appears more seamless than dramatic. Despite having to take a few steps down, you may not even realize you’re in a sunken living room when you’re in it.

Pros of Sunken Living Rooms

These charming, submerged nooks can bring a lot of benefits to your home.

  • A sunken living room adds character and flare to the space.
  • The lower level defines separate areas in an open-concept floor plan.
  • The sunken area makes the living room feel airy and multi-dimensional and the ceiling seem higher.
  • A conversation pit can be an intimate space for entertaining or relaxing.

Cons of Sunken Living Rooms

Part of the reason that sunken living rooms fell out of favor may be because the space can be impractical for some.

  • Going up and down stairs may be inconvenient in a high-traffic area.
  • The recessed area may pose a tripping hazard, especially for toddlers and older adults.
  • Stairs make accessibility difficult for those with mobility issues.
  • The shape and size of the space can limit design and furniture options. 
  • A sunken living room has the potential to look dated.

Ideas for Making the Most of a Sunken Living Room

To ensure you create an updated take on your sunken living room, focus on clean lines and modern materials. For instance, neutral wood floors will look more current than vintage shag carpeting. Here are some other ideas for your sunken living room.

Consider Safety

If it makes sense for the design, you may want to install a railing around the perimeter to limit missteps and falls. Another idea is to use different flooring types or colors between levels for contrast, to make the recessed area more visible.

Play Up the Fireplace

A sunken living room is the perfect spot for a fireplace, so make that your focal point. The hearth can give the semi-enclosed space a sense of coziness in an otherwise large room.

Add Plenty of Light

To keep the sunken spot from becoming too dark and cavernous, bring in as much natural light as possible with versatile window treatments. Or, consider adding artificial lighting in the form of recessed lights or floor lamps. More lighting will also minimize the potential for accidental falls.

Make It C­ozy

Whether you’re planning to use the space to chat with friends, read a book, or watch a TV show, bring in elements that are all about comfort–decorative pillows, soft throws, or an area rug are all great additions.

FAQ About Sunken Living Rooms

Can You Add a Sunken Living Room to Yo­ur Home?

Sunken living rooms are a unique way to add a bit of whimsy or interest to your home, and if you’re designing a new house or completely renovating an old one, it’s a fun element to consider. You’ll likely need to involve an architect who can help you plan out the space, taking into account ceiling height, focal points, and lighting. 

But if you’re planning to build a sunken living into an existing space, that may be a more difficult task. It’ll likely involve lowering the foundation of the home, which requires a permit and certainly isn’t a simple endeavor. Given the cost and extensive planning required, you might ask yourself if this is a project worth taking on.

Can You Raise the Floor of an Existing Sunken Living Room?

Many new homeowners whose house had originally been designed with a sunken living room opted to get rid of it by raising the floor. This can be a costly and difficult project, ranging anywhere from $5,000 to $25,000 and requiring the help of a professional. Factors affecting the cost include the size and height of the space and the type of flooring you plan to install. You’ll also need a permit to do this sort of work, since you’ll be making a structural change to the home.

In general, the steps to raising the floor of an existing sunken living room include filling in the subflooring with plywood, adding ventilation and possibly concrete, installing the new flooring over the level floor, moving or adding electrical outlets, and painting. 

Next Up In Living Rooms

An array of colors, shapes, patterns, and combos lets you make a striking statement against sleek fixtures and surfaces.

by Nina Malkin
Geometric design in MCM bathroom
Chase Daniel/Designed by Breathe Design Studios

Mid-century modern design continues to captivate homeowners and designers well into the 21st century. This enduring style, which flourished from the 1930s through the 1960s, is characterized by sleek lines, bold colors, and a futuristic vibe that manages to feel both nostalgic and fresh.

In bathrooms, choosing the right tile is key for establishing the mid-century modern look. Whether you’re planning a full renovation or simply looking for a refresh, mid-century modern tile offers a wealth of inspiring options. This guide will walk you through them.

Iconic Mid-Century Modern Tile Colors

Dark green bathroom with a copper tub
Claire Thomas

Color was a defining feature of original mid-century modern bathrooms. While today’s interpretations may incorporate new hues and finishes, bold use of color remains a hallmark of the style. Modern designs often forgo the traditional black borders and matching fixtures, opting instead for a more nuanced approach that allows the tile to take center stage. Here are a few of the most popular colors:

  • Blue: Blue tiles in long, slim shapes with a high-shine crackle glaze offer a fresh take on the classic mid-century palette. White grout accentuates the tile shape, adding a modern touch to the traditional color. Incorporating metallic accents such as chrome or brushed nickel gives the design a sophisticated edge, balancing vintage appeal with contemporary elegance.
  • Green: Green, another mid-century staple, gets a contemporary twist by combining various shades and shapes. Mixing rectangular, triangular, and square tiles in different green hues creates depth and visual interest while maintaining the era’s signature look. Accentuating this green palette with earthy tones like brown or beige can bring the entire design together.
  • Mint and other pastels: Pastel hues, particularly mint green, were quintessential mid-century colors. Today, designers are using larger format tiles in these soft shades to create a more spacious feel. Pairing pastel tiles with matte gray flooring provides a contemporary contrast. To add a touch of luxury, integrate marble or terrazzo elements that complement the pastel tones.
  • Pink: Pink has always been a popular choice for bathrooms, as it flatters most skin tones. In mid-century modern design, pink tile can range from soft blush to vibrant coral. To update this classic look, pair pink tiles with natural wood elements for a warm, inviting atmosphere. Adding brass or gold fixtures can bring more elegance to pink tiles.

Mid-Century-Inspired Shapes and Patterns

a geometric tile backsplash
Courtesy Ohana Home & Design | Courtesy Ohana Home & Design | Courtesy Ohana Home & Design | Courtesy Ohana Home & Design | Courtesy Ohana Home & Design | Courtesy Ohana Home & Design | Courtesy Ohana Home & Design

Mid-century modern design is known for its distinctive shapes and patterns. From organic forms to geometric designs, these elements add character and visual interest to bathroom spaces. By incorporating different textures and layering patterns, you can create a bathroom that pays homage to mid-century innovation while staying relevant to today’s design norms.

MCM bathroom
Lincoln Barbour / Designed by Mosaik Design & Remodeling | Lincoln Barbour / Designed by Mosaik Design & Remodeling | Lincoln Barbour / Designed by Mosaik Design & Remodeling | Lincoln Barbour / Designed by Mosaik Design & Remodeling | Lincoln Barbour / Designed by Mosaik Design & Remodeling | Lincoln Barbour / Designed by Mosaik Design & Remodeling | Lincoln Barbour / Designed by Mosaik Design & Remodeling

Lily pad tiles make for an eye-catching backsplash, creating a focal point that complements wood cabinetry and sleek white fixtures. This playful pattern adds a touch of whimsy to the bathroom while maintaining the clean lines characteristic of mid-century design. Pairing these tiles with vibrant wall art and retro-inspired lighting can elevate the space further.

Subtle geometric patterns can create an intriguing effect without overwhelming the space. A maze-like backsplash paired with rounded mirrors and sconces strikes a balance between angular and soft forms. Integrating black and white elements can provide a striking yet minimalistic look, emphasizing the geometric designs.

For those seeking a bolder approach, combine period-perfect pastels with graphic neutral tiles. This playful juxtaposition captures the spirit of mid-century design while feeling thoroughly modern. Mixing different patterns and textures within a complementary color palette can add depth and complexity, making a bold statement.

Clever Combos

Mixing tiles in a bathroom
Left: Jimmy Cheng/Moss Yaw Design Studio. Right: Rustic White Interiors/Webber Coleman Woodworks.

Mixing different tile styles is a hallmark of contemporary mid-century-inspired design. Here are some clever combinations:

  • Chevron-patterned shower floors with inverted subway tile walls offer a fresh take on classic shapes.
  • 4×4-inch square wall tiles with hexagonal floor tiles in a frameless walk-in shower add visual interest through contrasting shapes and finishes.
  • Mosaic tiles with larger format tiles can create intricate designs that draw the eye.
  • Vertical subway tiles paired with terrazzo flooring create a dynamic interplay of linear and speckled patterns.

Not-So-Plain Geometry

While mid-century furniture is known for its simplicity, bathroom tiles offer an opportunity to introduce complex geometric patterns. Today’s designers are experimenting with a wide range of shapes and sizes, from tiny 1×1 inch squares to large format 8×12 inch tiles. Curvy fish scale, oval, and circular motifs provide a softer counterpoint to the angular forms typically associated with mid-century design. Using these patterns thoughtfully can create focal points without overwhelming the overall design.

Geometric design in MCM bathroom
Chase Daniel/Designed by Breathe Design Studios

Atomic Artistry

The space age fascination of the post-war era finds new expression in contemporary bathroom design. Subtle nods to atomic and cosmic elements can be incorporated through accent tiles, adding a touch of retro-futurism to your space. Think about these options:

  • Apply galaxy-inspired tiles to create a whimsical and futuristic effect.
  • Experiment with radioactive motifs available in various color combinations and finishes.
  • Incorporate starburst patterns in classic mid-century colors like pink, aqua, and green.
  • Intersperse atomic ceramic squares in a backsplash or as a decorative border.
  • Use robot-themed tiles for a playful touch in a children’s bathroom.

Incorporating Mid-Century Modern Tiles in Modern Bathrooms

Incorporating mid-century modern tiles into a contemporary bathroom allows you to blend the timeless appeal of vintage design with the technology of modern living. Below are some tips and strategies for homeowners looking to incorporate mid-century modern tiles while achieving a balanced and updated design.

1. Add Modern Fixtures

Pairing mid-century modern tiles with contemporary fixtures helps create a balanced and cohesive look that doesn’t feel outdated. Modern fixtures such as sleek faucets, frameless glass shower doors, and minimalist lighting can tone down the retro aesthetic, ensuring your bathroom looks stylish and current. Choose materials like brushed nickel, matte black, or polished chrome for hardware and fixtures to complement the vintage-inspired tiles without overwhelming the space.

2. Balance Bold with Neutral

Mid-century modern design often embraces bold, vibrant colors like mustard yellow, teal, and orange. While these colors can make a statement, it’s essential to balance them with neutral elements like white, beige, or gray to prevent the bathroom from feeling too overpowering. For instance, consider using bold tiles as an accent wall or backsplash, and pair them with neutral flooring, countertops, and cabinetry. This allows the tiles to be the focal point while maintaining a sense of calm and cohesion in the overall space.

3. Consider Scale and Proportions

When incorporating mid-century modern tiles, think about the scale of the tiles in relation to the size of your bathroom. Larger format tiles, for example, can make a small bathroom feel more spacious by reducing grout lines and creating a seamless look. On the other hand, smaller tiles like hexagons or penny rounds can be used in larger bathrooms to add detail and visual interest. Keeping the scale and proportion of the tiles in harmony with the room size helps create a balanced and inviting environment.

4. Embrace Texture and Finish

To add depth and dimension to your bathroom, consider using mid-century modern tiles with interesting textures, finishes, or glazes. Textured tiles can bring a sense of luxury and visual interest to the space, especially when combined with contrasting matte and glossy surfaces. For example, glazed ceramic or porcelain tiles in a soft sheen can be paired with matte tiles to create contrast while maintaining a cohesive design. These textures can break up the uniformity of the space and add subtle character.

5. Focus on Quality and Longevity

Investing in high-quality tiles is key to ensuring that your bathroom not only looks great but also stands the test of time. Mid-century modern tiles, particularly those made from ceramic or porcelain, are durable and resistant to moisture—qualities essential for any bathroom setting. While higher-quality tiles may come with a greater upfront cost, their longevity and enduring style make them a worthwhile investment. Opt for tiles that are easy to clean and maintain to keep your bathroom looking fresh for years to come.

6. Accentuate with Vintage Touches

To fully embrace the mid-century modern aesthetic, consider adding vintage touches that tie into the overall tile design. Mid-century modern mirrors with rounded edges, retro-inspired lighting fixtures, or even vintage-style vanities can enhance the visual connection between the tiles and the rest of the bathroom. However, be mindful of not overdoing it—balance these retro elements with contemporary pieces to keep the space feeling updated and functional.

How To Maintain and Care for Mid-Century Modern Tiles

Here are some tips for caring for your tiles:

  • Address issues promptly: Fix any loose or cracked tiles immediately to prevent further damage.
  • Avoid harsh chemicals: Steer clear of abrasive cleaners that can scratch or dull tile surfaces.
  • Polish regularly: Use a gentle tile polish to maintain shine and protect the surface.
  • Regular cleaning: Use a pH-neutral cleaner to avoid damaging the tile surface or grout.
  • Seal grout lines: Apply a grout sealer to protect against stains and moisture.

Our Conclusion

Mid-century modern bathroom tiles offer a timeless yet fresh approach to bathroom design. By combining classic colors, shapes, and patterns with contemporary elements, you can create a space that honors the past while embracing the present. 

Next Up In Bathrooms

An eco-friendly kitchen is helpful to the environment because it helps reduce your carbon footprint. It also helps you save money by conserving resources and reducing utility bills. Here are some ways for you to create an eco-friendly kitchen.

by Mel Childs
Sustainable Kitchen
Anthony Tieuli

Are you ready to upgrade your kitchen? The return on investment for this area of the home averages between 70 and 80 percent. So updating this room could substantially increase the value of your home if you plan to sell it. 

Even if you plan to stay in your home for years to come, it would be a good idea to incorporate eco-friendly updates. These changes will reduce your carbon footprint on the planet and save money on your energy bills and help you make your home healthier for you and your family. Whether you want to do a whole kitchen renovation or incorporate a few small but meaningful tweaks, these are some green home inspiration ideas to help you create a more sustainable kitchen. 

Related

A Guide to Eco-Friendly Paints

Swap Out Light Bulbs

One easy way to make a big impact is to start with your kitchen lighting and substitute LED bulbs for your incandescent light bulbs. Although incandescent bulbs are much cheaper than LED bulbs, they end up costing homeowners more in the long run.

While LED bulbs give off heat, they do not produce as much heat as incandescent bulbs or use as much electricity. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, LED bulbs use “75 percent less energy and last 25 to 50 times longer than incandescent lighting.” This can help a homeowner save about $1,000 over a 10-year period. Another important thing to note: As part of the Biden administration’s climate initiatives, incandescent light bulbs will begin to be phased out of manufacturing and sale by July 2023.

Replace Your Gas Stove With an Electric One

Gas stoves may have better cooking control, allowing you to prepare plenty of delicious dishes, but they may not be as eco-friendly as once thought. Gas stoves may leak methane from them, even when they are turned off. They also contribute to indoor air pollution, possibly linked to childhood asthma. A much safer and environmentally friendly option is to install an electric stove. 

Change Your Faucet

If you are looking for other little ways to go green without a major overhaul, consider upgrading your kitchen faucet. A lot of waste in the home is due to excess water use. Opting for a touchless kitchen faucet can reduce the amount of water used. Also called a smart faucet, this type of faucet is motion sensor- or voice-controlled to automatically turn on and off so you’ll never accidentally leave the water running if you get distracted by a dish burning on the stove or if your child forgets to shut off the faucet. 

Because there’s also no need to physically touch any handles, installing one will limit the spread of bacteria and germs when handwashing. It’s important to keep in mind that a touchless faucet requires a power source, either from batteries or an AC transformer, to work. When shopping for one, look for a water flow rate that will give you a gauge of the gallons per minute (GPM). Since the maximum flow rate is 2.2 GPM, you’ll want to choose one that is much lower for the most water efficiency.  

Choose a Sustainable Countertop Material 

Non-renewable countertops aren’t only bad for the environment but can also potentially harbor harmful chemicals within them. But you have many options for kitchen countertops that are easier on the planet.  If you like the look of wood, try bamboo, which grows rapidly, so it is a good renewable resource, or reclaimed wood, which is lumber that has been salvaged from barns and other buildings.

Popular countertop materials like marble, granite, or quartz can have a troublesome mining process, and the labor of transporting them requires a lot of energy (and, therefore, a lot of carbon emissions). To lessen the impact, you may want to either seek out a stone that was mined locally or consider more sustainable alternatives, such as recycled glass, composite paper, or stainless steel. Or you always have the option to look for any secondhand material you like and give it a new life in your home.

Install Sustainable Flooring

If you want to convert your kitchen to an eco-friendly one, look no further than right beneath your feet. Bamboo flooring and cork flooring are excellent green options since they both grow relatively quickly, so they are a great renewable resource.   Because reusing is always good for the environment, you may want to also think about salvaged materials like recycled tile or reclaimed wood. And don’t discredit linoleum flooring. It may have gotten a bad rap over the years, but this material—comprised of things like linseed oil, cork dust, pine resin, ground limestone, and jute—is a surprisingly eco choice.

Switch to Energy-Efficient Appliances

You may want to consider converting your kitchen appliances to energy-efficient ones when you can. Appliances with the Energy Star rating are government-backed, energy-efficient appliances tested to ensure that they save consumers money and help protect the environment.

For instance, an Energy Star-certified dishwasher costs about $35 per year to run and can save about 3,800 gallons of water over its lifetime. In addition to investing in big-ticket items, like a new oven or refrigerator, be sure also to consider smaller energy-efficient appliances such as microwaves and coffee makers. And to keep your fridge running efficiently, be good about cleaning the condenser coil regularly to ensure it is always running at its optimal level.

Repaint Your Kitchen Cabinets

Most of the cabinets removed from homes during a renovation end up in a landfill. To prevent your kitchen cabinets from adding to landfill waste, it is a good idea to paint your kitchen cabinets. This will give your kitchen the fresh look you want at a fraction of the cost of replacing cabinets. Painting your cabinets could cost around $100. So not only is this easy on the environment, but it’s also easy on your wallet. 

Recycle, Recycle, Recycle

You probably already have adopted a recycling area in your home for organizing recyclable materials such as aluminum, glass, and plastic. But if you are looking to support a greener lifestyle for your family, there are other things you can think about recycling, too. For instance, you can consider collecting food waste in a kitchen compost bin. 

Not only do compost bins keep food out of landfills, but they will also help enrich the soil. If you don’t have your own garden, many large cities and local farmer’s markets will accept food waste for composting. Don’t forget about reusing. Old glass jars from tomato sauce, for example, can make for great pantry storage containers for dry beans or rice once you peel off the label. And you want to switch to reusable dishcloths to avoid the waste of paper towels. 

Next Up In Kitchens

We've rounded up our favorite Cyber Monday deals. Take a look at our guides for savings on home goods, appliances, electronics, and more.

by This Old House Reviews Team

We’ve rounded up our favorite Cyber Monday deals on electronics, tools, home products, and more.

Shop Best Sellers This Holiday Season

$219 SALE $180

$200 SALE $180

$371 SALE $241

$130 SALE $100

Samsung Smart Front Load Washer and Smart Gas Dryer, HOWAY Coffee Cup Warmer, and Amazon Fire TV 75" isolated on a blue grid paper background.

Best Cyber Monday Deals (2023 Guide)

Are you looking to save money on your holiday shopping? We’ve made it easy rounding up the This Old House Reviews Team’s favorite Cyber Monday deals on a variety of home products.

Featured Articles

home_security

15 Best Smart Home Gifts (2024 Guide)

    Secondary Product Title

    Last Chance for Black Friday Deals

    Placeholder

    0719_Brookline_Shot4A_LivingRoom_TowaardsKitchen_FireOn_1

    Best Black Friday Deals on Winter Essentials (2023)

    Next Up In Shop

    We compiled all our favorite deals in one place to make your Black Friday shopping easier this year. Bookmark this page to score amazing deals on your favorite home brands and products!

    by This Old House Reviews Team

    We’ve compiled our favorite deals in one place. Bookmark this page to access amazing deals on your favorite home brands and products!

    Shop Best Sellers This Holiday Season

    $125.99 SALE $84.98

    $499.95 SALE $299.95

    $249 SALE $149

    $89.99 SALE $69.99

    Featured Articles

    Our Favorite Black Friday Deals on All Things Home (2025)

    Our Favorite Black Friday Deals on All Things Home (2025)

    Secondary Product Title

    Next Up In Shop

    TOH general contractor Tom Silva and host Kevin O’Connor work together to build a storage-rich miter saw station from a set of factory toolboxes.

    by Tom Silva
    We've In this video, This Old House general contractor Tom Silva demonstrates the construction process

    Project details

    Skill

    3 out of 5ModerateYou’ll probably need a partner. These two toolboxes will be very heavy when attached to each other, so having a partner to help will make things safer.

    Cost

    Around $1,200 (depending on tool boxes chosen)

    Estimated Label

    One day

    Are you constantly reorganizing your workshop to accommodate your miter saw when you need to use it? Creating a miter saw station can transform your workspace by providing storage and a dedicated area for precise cuts. In this guide, we’ll teach you how to build a miter saw station to streamline your woodworking projects. We’ve also included visual guidance from This Old House general contractor Tom Silva, who demonstrates the construction process in the video above.

    Benefits of a Miter Saw Station

    By taking on this project, you’ll create a functional and efficient workspace. Having a dedicated miter saw station offers several benefits, including the following:

    • Enhanced safety: A well-organized station lends itself to a clutter-free workspace and minimizes accident risks.
    • Improved efficiency: You’ll speed up your workflow by keeping all your tools and materials organized and within reach.
    • Increased accuracy: A stable platform will allow you to make precise cuts, reducing material waste.

    Choosing the Right Location

    Before diving into construction, you’ll need to decide where to set up your miter saw station. Consider the following factors when making your decision:

    • Adequate lighting
    • Available space
    • Enough space to fit longer materials
    • Proximity to power outlets

    Most cutting tasks require an 8-foot-long space at a minimum, but the depth may vary depending on your available space and specific needs. We recommend measuring for a depth of 24–36 inches as that is sufficient for most applications.

    Materials and Tools Needed To Build a Miter Saw Station

    Tools & Materials

    After you’ve found the right location, gather the following tools and materials to build your miter saw station: 

    You will also need the following tools for this project:

    Preparing the Base

    Start by preparing your base, which will consist of two metal toolboxes connected by plywood sheets. Here’s how to do this:

    1. Position the toolboxes far enough apart to fit the width of your miter saw.
    2. Measure the distance between the toolboxes and cut a piece of OSB plywood.
    3. Mark and cut out spaces for the wheels on the plywood using a jigsaw.
    4. Attach the plywood to the bottom of the toolboxes. You can use self-tapping screws.

    Silva recommends using temporary spacers so the positioning between the cabinets remains the same as you construct your station.

    Connecting the Cabinets

    Once you’ve prepared your base, you can connect your cabinets. This will result in a solid base that you can move easily. Follow these steps:

    1. Cut a second sheet of OSB plywood to fit across the backs of both toolboxes.
    2. Lay the toolboxes on their fronts and attach the backboard using self-tapping screws.
    3. Use the same spacers from the bottom board for consistency.
    4. Once attached, stand the connected toolboxes upright on their wheels. This may require two people because it can be a little heavy.

    Creating the Miter Saw Platform

    Now you can create a custom-fit frame to keep your miter saw at the right height so you’re comfortable while you make accurate cuts. Follow these steps to create a sturdy platform for your miter saw:

    1. Measure the height of your miter saw’s deck.
    2. Add the butcher-block top’s thickness to this measurement.
    3. Mark the total height on the toolboxes by measuring down from the top.
    4. Cut a 2-by-4 U-shaped frame to fit between the cabinets at this height.
    5. Use temporary blocks to hold the frame in place while you drill holes for attachment.
    6. Set threaded inserts into the holes and secure the frame with bolts.

    Installing the Worktop

    Constructing a level worktop will ensure accurate cuts. In the video above, Silva uses the butcher-block top because it provides a durable and attractive work surface. Here’s how to install your worktop:

    1. Cut the butcher block to fit the space between the toolboxes.
    2. Attach it to the 2-by-4 frame by driving screws up from below.
    3. Check that the top is level and flush with the toolbox surfaces.

    Setting Up the Miter Saw

    With the station structure complete, it’s time to install your miter saw. For precise alignment and consistent cuts across your projects, follow the instructions below:

    1. Place the miter saw on the platform.
    2. Use straight 1-by-4 material to mark the location of the saw fence.
    3. Attach the saw fence to the worktop using a biscuit cutter and two-piece snap-together biscuits.
    4. Install sliding tracks on top of the wooden saw fence.
    5. Affix a self-adhesive measuring tape to the fence’s top edge so it’s easy to measure items.

    Adding Finishing Touches

    You’re now ready to use your new miter saw station, but consider adding the following features for convenience and effectiveness:

    Silva also painted the exposed wood black on his station to blend with the metal cabinets and create a more cohesive look.

    Additional Tips for Customization of Your Miter Saw Station

    You can further enhance your station by customizing it according to your needs. Here are a few customization ideas:  

    • Extension wings: If you frequently work with long materials, consider adding extension wings on either side of your miter saw station. These can be foldable to save space.
    • Lighting: You can install LED lights under your cabinets to increase visibility. This can be useful when you’re working on detailed cuts.
    • Storage bins: Adding storage bins or small containers to your station’s interior drawers can help you organize screws, nails, and other small items.

    Maintenance and Care of a Miter Saw Station

    Routine maintenance will optimize your miter saw station’s performance and extend its lifespan. Here are some maintenance tips:

    • Check for wear and tear: Inspect your station every so often for signs of wear and tear. Replace when you notice that components are worn out.
    • Lubrication: Lubricate your miter saw station’s moving parts and any sliding tracks to guarantee smooth operation.
    • Regular cleaning: Regularly clean your tools and miter saw station to prevent dust and debris buildup.

    Next Up In Woodworking

    Mason Mark McCullough shows host Kevin O’Connor how a homeowner can build their own kit of masonry tools to tackle almost any project around their homes.

    by Mark McCullough
    In this video, This Old House expert Mark McCullough and host Kevin O’Connor walk you through the toolkit they’ve created for any homeowner looking to take on masonry work at home

    We may be compensated if you purchase through links on our website. Our team is committed to delivering honest, objective, and independent reviews on home products and services.

    More

    Whether you’re repairing a brick walkway or building a stone wall, you can tackle many masonry projects with the right set of tools. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll tell you the essential masonry tools for do-it-yourself (DIY) homeowners. We’ve also included a video featuring This Old House expert Mark McCullough and host Kevin O’Connor as they walk you through the toolkit they’ve created for any homeowner looking to take on masonry work at home.

    Measurement and Layout Tools

    Most DIY projects start with measurements. McCullough suggests that every homeowner have the below tools on hand to measure with precision and accuracy.

    Level

    Keep your masonry work plumb with a level. You may know that professional masons use extended-length levels, but DIYers will find a torpedo level is just as useful for their projects. These compact levels are affordable, and they let you check levelness in small areas or confined spaces, keeping things uniform throughout.

    Mason’s String

    A mason’s string, or mason’s line, creates straight lines between two points. The string is usually a sturdy, brightly colored line that provides a precise and straight pathway for your brickwork or stonework. It’s useful because it helps you avoid misalignment or unevenness in any project. 

    Tape Measure

    There’s no way to perform a DIY task without a tape measure. For masonry work, find one that’s durable and has clear, easy-to-read markings. Your tape measure needs to stand up against the tough conditions of a construction site and measure small or expansive dimensions.

    Striking Tools

    You can’t shape, cut, or put down material without striking tools. They’re the backbone of masonry work, used for both construction and demolition purposes. Here’s what we suggest you keep on hand for your at-home projects.

    Brick Hammer

    The brick hammer, or mason’s hammer, is two tools in one. It has a flat head for striking and a chisel edge for cutting. It does everything from trimming bricks to breaking up concrete and helps you cut and shape with precision, even in challenging circumstances.

    Chisels

    McCullough recommends that you include a variety of chisels in your tool kit to fill your masonry needs. There are several sizes of cold or masonry chisels to fit with many joint widths and stone proportions. You might also want to have larger chisels with ergonomic plastic handles that can protect your hands during block cutting or demolition tasks.

    Rubber Mallet

    The rubber mallet lets you adjust bricks and pavers without causing damage. It’s gentler than a brick hammer, so it works well on projects such as brick walkways laid on sand. This necessary tool allows you to secure bricks without cracking or chipping them.

    Trowels and Jointing Tools

    Masons use trowels to smooth cement, apply mortar, and dress joints. Homeowners creating their masonry kits might want to include the following trowel types.

    Brick Trowel

    For a masonry project that uses bricks or stones, you can use a brick trowel. It makes it easier to apply mortar, place bricks, and shape joints. We recommend you use a standard 10-inch trowel because it can fulfill many of a homeowner’s needs.

    Finishing Trowel

    Finishing trowels help masons smooth and level concrete surfaces, such as patios and walkways. The result produces a refined look whether you’re making a repair or installing something new. 

    Jointing Tool

    A jointing trowel, also called a slicker, smooths and shapes mortar joints. They have curved edges that create a concave joint, so your work looks like it was done by a professional while also protecting the mortar from water damage. 

    Margin Trowel

    Margin trowels are small and have an angled blade. They’re effective for DIY projects, especially if there are tight spaces or corners. You can also use it to fill broader stone joints because it can reach spaces where larger tools may struggle to fit.

    Application Tools

    One way to make the DIY process a little easier is by using specialized tools to speed up mortar application. 

    Masonry Grout Bag

    A masonry grout bag looks like a pastry bag. Masonry grout bags allow you to apply mortar into joints, especially in hard-to-reach areas. They’re becoming more popular because they’re easy to use and simplify masonry projects. 

    Mixing Tub

    A mixing tub combines water with premixed mortar. Modern premixed options make mixing even easier by eliminating separate sand and cement blending. All you have to do is add water, then mix and proceed, which helps you to prepare for application.

    Cleanup Tools

    Cleanup is part of every DIY project. There are a few tools you can use to clean up after masonry work. The following items will help you maintain a clean workspace and enhance your projects.

    Hard-Bristle Brush

    A stiff-bristled brush removes debris and excess mortar from floors and expanses. By cleaning these areas, not only will your project have a professional appearance, but it will also provide your project with structural integrity.

    Soft-Bristle Brush

    Softer brushes work on delicate surfaces. They’ll help you remove fine mortar residue and dust without scratching the exterior, giving your masonry a polished finish.

    Mason’s Sponge

    A sponge helps you achieve a refined and professional look by smoothing out imperfections and leaving a clean surface.

    Safety Equipment

    Practicing safety precautions will help you to avoid injuries when you work with masonry tools and materials. Here are some we recommend you include in your tool kit.

    Dust Mask

    Inhaling dust during masonry projects is harmful. To avoid particles from entering your lungs, wearing a dust mask can protect you against all the fine powder generated from cutting, mixing, and other tasks. 

    Safety Glasses

    A lot of debris can fly around during masonry work. Protect your eyes with safety glasses to stop dust and chips from hurting you and causing eye injuries. 

    Work Gloves

    Although you might find it easier to work without them, we recommend you have a pair of work gloves in your toolkit. They protect your hands from rough surfaces and sharp edges and cover your hands as you work with caustic materials. 

    Power Tools for Masonry Projects

    Now that we’ve covered the traditional hand tools McCullough recommends for your masonry tool kit, we’ll go over the power tools that can help you speed up projects and make your work more precise and efficient.

    Angle Grinder

    An angle grinder cuts, grinds, and polishes masonry materials. Grinders are especially useful for projects that require rapid removal or surface preparation. When you use the correct masonry-cutting discs, it cuts stone and concrete pretty easily.

    Hammer Drill

    A hammer drill provides the strength you need when you’re working with concrete or tougher materials. Thanks to its powerful hammering action, you can drill holes for anchors or other fixtures with ease. Since it works so well with hardened material, many masons use it to complete more demanding masonry tasks.

    Wet Saw

    A wet saw has a water-cooled blade that limits the amount of dust produced during cuts. It offers clean cuts during the precision cutting of stone or tiles.

    Next Up In Masonry

    Lee shares key tools and products in a winter weather kit; Richard shares a unique water heater; Mark shares homeowner-friendly masonry tools; Tom and Kevin build a new miter saw station.

    by Ask This Old House TV

    Landscape contractor Lee Gilliam teaches host Kevin O’Connor what he needs to know about putting together a snow removal kit. After explaining the different types of material he uses to break up snow and ice on driveways and walkways, Lee shows Kevin the shovels he uses as well as a non-stick spray to keep the ice from building on them. Last, they talk about snowblower maintenance and how to ensure a snowblower is ready for the season ahead.

    Next, mason Mark McCullough teaches Kevin how to assemble a masonry tool kit for homeowners. Mark shows Kevin all of the basic hand tools he uses regularly and explains what they’re for.

    Finally, we meet general contractor Tom Silva as he and Kevin build a new miter saw station with some factory tool cabinets. After securing the two cabinets to each other, Tom shows Kevin how to attach a shelf for the miter saw before moving on to installing a removal saw fence for control and accuracy.

    What You Need in a Snow Removal Kit

    Lee Gilliam shares how to prepare for ice and snow removal ahead of the winter season. Lee shows Kevin O’Connor the tools and materials he uses professionally, as well as some maintenance he performs to make sure his tools are ready to go.

    Where to find it?

    For an icy driveway or walkway spread out a dusting of salt to melt the ice. Avoid using salt on newly laid concrete or a bluestone patio to prevent any damage.

    Calcium chloride is a very effective snow-melting product, often used in shopping center parking lots. Although powerful, calcium chloride is a strong chemical that can harm animals and plants.

    If you have a pet, be sure to use a magnesium chloride ice melt product. It’s pet-friendly and less corrosive to concrete surfaces.

    Lee recommends a small plastic shovel for scooping snow and a wider plastic shovel for pushing snow. To keep snow from sticking to the shovel, use a snow and ice lubricant spray.

    Lee recommends using a snow and ice lubricant spray on the shoot of a snow blower. This will prevent snow buildup.

    Annual maintenance of a snow blower includes changing out the auger paddle, spark plug and checking the oil.

    Mark’s Favorite Entry-Level Masonry Tools

    Mark McCullough shares his favorite homeowner-friendly masonry tools with Kevin O’Connor and explains how to use them for entry-level projects.

    Where to find it?

    Mark starts off with a measuring tape, mason’s line to assist in creating a straight line from one point to another, and a torpedo level. Next, he includes a brick hammer for cutting bricks multiple chisel sizes for different-sized masonry joints. Mark recommends a rubber mallet for brick walkways laid on sand to secure them in place without damaging the brick. A masonry grout bag can be used to easily apply mortar into joints.

    For application, Mark suggests using a finishing trowel for repairs to concrete patios or walkways. He recommends using a brick trowel for step or stone wall repairs. To take out and repair stone joints, Mark recommends a margin trowel. A jointer/slicker is used to fill and smooth masonry joints while also sealing them from any moisture.

    For cleanup, Mark recommends using a hard bristle brush to clean up any dust or debris on the floor. A soft bristle brush is recommended for finished brickwork to clean off any imperfections after repairs. He also recommends large grouting sponges to clean up any dust or grout pilling on the brickwork.

    Build It | Miter Saw Station

    Tom Silva and Kevin O’Connor work together to make a miter saw station. The new mobile setup will feature two workbenches and cabinets for extra storage.

    Where to find it?

    For the metal framed shelf, Tom makes the cuts using a miter saw with a metal cutting blade. He then makes rivets using a rivet gun.

    Tom uses a jigsaw to cut out four sections for the wheels.

    For the worktop, Tom makes the cuts using a miter saw with a standard wood cutting blade. They secure the worktop to the metal frame using heavy-duty wood screws.

    For easy measuring and consistent cuts, Tom and Kevin include a Track and Stop kit. To keep the boards in place, they also include a featherboard. To make even more precise cuts, Tom and Kevin also incorporated a miter gauge.

    Tom and Kevin used tools manufactured by Bosch Tools and Kreg Tools.

    Original Air Date: Nov 16, 2023, Season 22; Ep. 8 23:42

    Products and services from this episode

    Tool manufacturers:

    Next Up In Season 22 - Ask This Old House

    A custom gutter is recessed into the roof overhang. The neighbor's house, one of three designed and built by the same original architect, is toured. New energy-efficient windows are installed.

    by This Old House TV

    For accessibility, the 1960 mid-century modern house was taken back to the studs to change the layout and eliminate all thresholds throughout the interior main-level spaces, as well as transitions to the exterior.

    Charlie Silva takes Kevin O’Connor up on the roof to explore the different roof types and multiple pitches. At 1800 sq ft, a single roof surface will yield over 1100 gallons of water in an hour of rainfall. To manage this, Charlie and Tom Silva will recess a custom gutter with a downspout into the overhang. That downspout will eventually connect to the drainage system down by the foundation.

    On the inside, small details like the lower height of bathroom fixtures and switch boxes and the higher height of receptacle boxes make a big impact on the goal of accessibility, allowing easier access from a wheelchair.

    Kevin gets a tour of the house next door. The home is one of three next to each other that was designed and built by architect Bernard Lange, and one of two, including our project house that was redesigned by the current architect. Though the lower level and entryway have since been renovated, much of the original mid-century modern features, like the round sunken living room, terrazzo floors, and metal kitchen cabinets, have been preserved.

    Next door, Charlie and Tom begin installation of the new energy-efficient double-pane windows, which replace the old single-pane plate glass ones.

    Original Air Date: Nov 16, 2023, Season 45; Ep. 8 23:42

    Products and resources from this episode

    Next Up In Season 45 - Lexington Modern

    Mason Mark McCullough helps a homeowner install wrought iron railings on his steps to make them safer for children and older adults.

    by Mark McCullough
    Mason Mark McCullough walks through how to install iron railings on concrete steps.

    We may be compensated if you purchase through links on our website. Our team is committed to delivering honest, objective, and independent reviews on home products and services.

    More

    Installing an iron railing on concrete steps can significantly improve the safety and aesthetics of your home. This project is particularly helpful for families with young children or elderly members—giving them support and stability as they go up and down the stairs. Mark McCullough, a mason from Ask This Old House, shows the process of installing a wrought iron railing on concrete steps to improve safety and add classic style. Learn more in our guide below.

    Understanding the Need for a Railing on Concrete Steps

    Adding a railing to your concrete steps, even when not required by code, can provide several benefits. This enhancement acts as a safeguard for children and elderly family members, giving them additional support while navigating stairs. It also offers improved stability for all users, making the entrance more accessible. 

    Beyond safety, an iron railing elevates your home’s curb appeal with a touch of classic style. Wrought iron, in particular, stands out due to its durability and timeless appearance. Before you begin, make sure your plans meet local building codes.

    Choosing the Right Railing for Your Steps

    Selecting the appropriate railing for your concrete steps involves several factors, from material selection to design considerations.

    Material Selection

    Wrought iron is a prevalent choice for outdoor railings due to its multiple advantages. Its durability and strength make it ideal for withstanding various weather conditions, giving your home a long-lasting fixture. Additionally, its classic and timeless appearance complements a variety of architectural styles. 

    You can customize wrought iron railings to suit your personal design preferences, allowing you to add unique touches. While wrought iron offers numerous benefits, you can also consider aluminum or steel based on your specific needs or aesthetic preferences.

    Design Considerations

    Choosing the right design for your railing can significantly impact both functionality and aesthetics. First, consider how the design will integrate with existing architectural elements to create a cohesive look. Balancing functionality with aesthetics ensures the railing provides the necessary support without compromising style. 

    You can incorporate decorative elements, such as twisted pickets, to enhance visual appeal. Lastly, you need to make sure the railing’s height and spacing adhere to safety regulations, preventing accidents and ensuring ease of use. In the video above, the homeowner opts for a design with alternating straight and twisted pickets, complementing his current guardrails while ensuring safety.

    Preparing for Iron Railing Installation

    Proper preparation is key to a successful railing installation. Follow these steps:

    1. Measure the steps accurately, including the number of steps, rise, run, and depth of the top landing.
    2. Order a custom railing from a reputable iron fabricator, or choose a premade option that fits your measurements.
    3. Gather necessary tools and materials, including a coring drill, hydraulic cement, and a level.
    4. Mark the intended location of the railing posts on the steps.

    Installation Process for Iron Railing

    The installation of an iron railing on concrete steps requires a careful approach, precision, and the proper tools. Here’s a step-by-step guide to the process.

    Drilling Holes for Posts

    Start the installation by drilling holes for the railing posts. Employ a coring drill to make precise holes in the concrete where you will insert the posts. Scoring the surface with the drill initially provides a guide to assist in maintaining accuracy after you turn the drill’s water on. 

    We recommend a water-cooled drill bit with a “boot” to reduce dust and contain water spray during drilling. Drill to the necessary depth required to secure the posts, keeping in mind that precision is key to a stable final product.

    Positioning the Railing

    Positioning the railing correctly involves collaboration and careful measurements. With the assistance of a helper, hold the railing in place to check its positioning. The railing shouldn’t obstruct doors and should provide ample space for entry and exit. 

    Use small wood scraps as shims to keep the railing plumb and straight during the installation process, making sure it’s aligned correctly with a level.

    Securing the Railing

    To secure the railing, begin by mixing hydraulic cement to a soupy consistency in a small pail. This mixture will serve as the foundation for the railing. Pour the cement into the drilled holes around the posts, filling the gaps all the way around. 

    Bevel the tops of the cement to prevent water collection, enhancing the durability of the installation. Wipe the railing posts with a damp sponge to remove any excess cement before it cures.

    Finishing Touches

    After securing the railing, allow the hydraulic cement to cure for at least 24 hours before using the railing. This curing period gets it to maximum strength and stability. Clean any remaining residue from the railing and stairs to enhance the appearance.

    Maintenance and Care for Iron Railing

    You need to keep your newly installed iron railing in top condition. Regularly inspect the railing for signs of rust or damage, addressing any issues immediately to prolong its lifespan. Cleaning the railing periodically with mild soap and water helps maintain its appearance, removing dirt and grime that could lead to rusting. 

    Applying a protective coating or paint as needed can provide an additional layer of defense against weathering. Finally, tighten any loose fittings or bolts right away to retain the railing’s structural integrity.

    Safety Considerations for Iron Railing on Concrete Steps

    When installing an iron railing on concrete steps, there are safety factors to keep in mind. As we stated earlier, make sure the railing meets local building codes for height and spacing.

    We recommend regular testing of the railing’s stability to identify any weaknesses or stability issues early. Address any signs of wear or damage immediately to prevent accidents. Consider adding nonslip treads to the steps to enhance safety, especially in wet or icy conditions.

    Our Conclusion

    Installing an iron railing on concrete steps is a valuable home improvement project that enhances both safety and aesthetics. With proper planning, tools, and techniques, homeowners can complete this task and enjoy the benefits of a strong, attractive railing for years to come. Remember to prioritize safety, choose quality materials, and maintain the railing regularly to keep it in good condition.

    Resources

    Mark uses a coring drill to install the railing to drill two holes in the top and bottom concrete steps.

    Once the railing is dropped in, Mark and the homeowner pour the anchoring cement into each hole. They then clean up any excess cement with a damp sponge. Mark double-checks that the railing is level before it cures.

    Special assistance is provided by Forte Iron Work Specialist Inc.

    Materials

    Tools

    You may choose to rent the coring drill if the job is for one railing.

    Tools & Materials

    Next Up In Masonry

    Join This Old House's Jenn Nawada as she teams up with two homeowners and a local expert to design and build a rain garden that helps manage stormwater and adds beauty to your landscape.

    by Jenn Nawada, Landscape Contractor
    a video showing how to create a rain garden

    Project details

    Skill

    2 out of 5Easy to Moderate

    Cost

    Under $800

    Estimated Label

    One weekend

    We may be compensated if you purchase through links on our website. Our team is committed to delivering honest, objective, and independent reviews on home products and services.

    More

    Rain gardens are eco-friendly landscaping solutions that use natural plants to manage stormwater runoff. These gardens capture rainwater from roofs, driveways, and other impervious surfaces, and filter it into the ground slowly. They also add natural beauty to yards. Learn how to prepare, install, and maintain your own rain garden in our guide below. 

    Understanding Rain Gardens

    Rain gardens mimic natural water filtration processes. They collect rainwater runoff and guide it into the soil to percolate, which reduces the amount of water that flows directly into storm drains and waterways. This process helps filter out pollutants, recharges groundwater, and offers insects and wildlife additional habitats. Rain gardens don’t require much maintenance.

    Are Rain Gardens Worth It?

    Rain gardens are worth the investment for most homeowners. They manage stormwater efficiently and benefit the environment. Rain gardens can also reduce water-pooling and erosion problems in areas that get frequent rain or areas that face drainage issues.

    What You’ll Need

    You’ll need the materials below to start your project: 

    Planning Your Rain Garden

    Plan your rain garden very carefully before you start digging. Consider factors such as location, size, and accompanying plant selection before you commit to a model. The rain garden should function efficiently and complement your landscape.

    Choosing the Right Location

    Think about your home’s layout and features when selecting a suitable spot for your rain garden. It must be near a downspout, and it should be at least 10 feet away from your home’s foundation if you have a basement. It should be at least 2 feet away if you don’t. Keep it at least 3 feet away from driveways and streets, and at least 2 or 3 feet away from pathways. The area should have a slight slope that can direct water, but the flow should not be too steep.

    Determining the Size

    The size of your rain garden depends on the amount of runoff you anticipate it will capture. It should be about 10% of the size of the roof area from which it’s capturing water. If your roof area is 350 square feet, for example, your rain garden should be at least 35 square feet.

    Selecting Plants

    The right plants can make your rain garden even more successful. The plants must be able to thrive in both wet and dry conditions. Some suitable options are below.  

    • Deciduous and evergreen trees
    • Flowering perennials
    • Grasses
    • Shrubs

    Choose plants that are native to the area if you can, as they will require less maintenance than other types. They will also provide food and habitat for local wildlife, which will enhance your garden’s biodiversity.

    Preparing the Site for a Rain Garden

    Conducting a percolation test will help you understand your soil’s drainage capability. Here’s how to perform this test:

    1. Dig a hole that’s about 12 inches deep and wide.
    2. Fill it with water.
    3. Determine how quickly the water drains.

    The ideal drainage rate is at least a 1/2 inch per hour. If your soil doesn’t drain well, you may need to amend it or choose a different location.

    Once you land the ideal soil drain rate, use spray paint to outline the shape of your rain garden, and begin digging the basin. Make it deepest in the center, and gradually raise the slope up to the edges. Then, create a berm around the downhill side of the garden using the excavated soil.

    Installing the Rain Garden

    Once you have properly prepared the site, you can begin installing your rain garden. Follow the steps below.

    Amend the Soil

    Incorporate a four-way soil mix into your site’s existing soil to improve drainage and provide nutrients for your plants. Loose soil encourages better water filtration and root growth, so avoid compacting the soil.

    Create a Water Inlet

    Follow the steps below to direct water from your downspout to the rain garden:

    1. Install a downspout extension or diverter.
    2. Dig a shallow trench from the downspout to the rain garden.
    3. Line the trench with landscape fabric.
    4. Fill the trench with river rocks to create a decorative water channel.

    Plant Your Rain Garden

    You can begin planting your rain garden. Follow the steps below. 

    1. Arrange plants based on their moisture tolerance, and place the more tolerant plants in the center. 
    2. Dig holes that are twice as wide as the root balls.
    3. Plant the root balls as deep in the soil as they were deep in their containers.  
    4. Water each plant thoroughly.

    Finish this process by applying a 2- or 3-inch layer of organic mulch around the plants, which will help them retain moisture and suppress weeds. Use the excavated sod to create a slight berm around the garden’s edge, which will help the garden retain water. Water your new plants regularly during the first growing season.

    Maintaining Your Rain Garden

    You’ll only need to perform occasional maintenance on your rain garden once you’ve installed it. Follow the tips below.

    • Prune plants to maintain their shape and size
    • Remove sediment from the inlet area
    • Replace mulch annually
    • Remove weeds as needed
    • Water during dry periods for the first year

    Do Rain Gardens Attract Mosquitoes?

    If you properly install your rain garden, it should not attract mosquitoes. Rain gardens are designed to drain within 24–48 hours, which is less time than mosquitoes need to complete their breeding cycles. If water stands for longer periods of time, you need to adjust the garden’s depth or improve soil drainage.

    Common Rain Garden Challenges

    Rain gardens are generally low-maintenance, but you may encounter some of the challenges below.

    Erosion

    Your rain garden might eventually start to erode around the inlet. Combat this by adding more rocks or plants to slow water flow and stabilize the soil.

    Plant Die-Off

    Not all plants will thrive in a rain garden. Replace struggling plants with species that are better suited to the area’s specific moisture conditions.

    Clogging

    Sediment may accumulate in the inlet area over time. Remove this buildup occasionally to make sure water can flow freely into the garden.

    Tools

    Tools & Materials

    Next Up In Gardening

    Discover attractive doorway casing ideas that will enhance the architecture and décor inside your home.

    by Nina Malkin
    Kitchen with multiple doorways displaying casing
    John Gruen

    The trim around the doors of your home is a structural element, but it also has distinct decorative attributes. Aesthetically, door trim can reflect the architectural style of the house and the décor of the room it’s in. Functionally, this kind of molding, called doorway casing, fills the gaps between the wall and the door jamb—the frame on which the door is hinged and where the latch engages.

    Like crown molding and baseboards, the right doorway casing gives a space a finished, refined appearance. Installing interior door trim is a relatively easy do-it-yourself project that can have a huge impact. Whether you aim to add a classic accent, complement a rustic room, or create a more ornate entrance, you’ll find valuable info and ample inspiration in this guide to door adornment.

    Related

    The Best Firewood to Heat Your Home

    What is a Doorway Casing?

    Doorway casing consists of three strips of material, usually wood boards: two long pieces installed vertically and a horizontal head casing that goes along the top to perfectly surround the door. The boards can be flat or have a shapely profile, and they are milled to be slightly thinner on the edge placed toward the inside of the door frame. Door trim boards are generally between 2¼ inches and 3½ inches wide.

    Doorway casing may be made of natural or synthetic materials. 

    • Paint-grade wood (e.g., pine): a smooth-grained and inexpensive choice
    • Stain-grade wood (e.g., hemlock): high-quality wood with attractive natural grain
    • Hardwood (e.g., oak or maple): best for high-moisture areas
    • Medium-density fiberboard (MDF): a combination of sawdust and resin, resists warping and won’t split when nailed

    Prices for paint-grade wood door trim may start as low as about $0.75 per linear foot, but hardwood can be as much as $10 per foot. MDF can range from $0.60 to $6 per linear foot. No matter the material, the wider or more detailed the trim, the costlier it becomes. For easier installation, DIYers can find pre-cut, pre-primed door trim at home improvement stores.

    Types of Door Casing

    2 types of door casings: mitered and butted
    Left: Mitered | Jared Kuzia; Right: Butted | Erin Little

    Door casing generally falls into two main categories: mitered and butted. Each style offers distinct advantages and suits different architectural preferences.

    Mitered Trim

    With mitered trim, the pieces connect above the door along 45-degree angled (i.e., mitered) joints. Mitered casings look sharp and neat, so they tend to suit modern settings as well as rooms with lower ceilings. Though the look is simple, cutting mitered angles precisely and connecting them can be tricky, making for a somewhat more challenging DIY project. If you want a professional-looking mitered finish, we recommend hiring an expert for best results.

    Butted Trim

    With butted trim, the header sits straight across the top of the side pieces. Butted trim allows for more customization, especially in terms of wider, longer, or more detailed head casing. This aspect of butted trim makes it suited to higher ceilings, since it draws the eye upward. While butted trim can be visually more complex, installing it tends to be an easier DIY job, since there are no angles to cut and join.

    A Doorway Casing Style For Every Style

    Here’s a look at some popular styles to suit various architectural designs and personal preferences. You’ll find a casing for any vision, from timeless elegance to modern simplicity.

    Colonial Casing

    Colonial Door Casing
    Jared Kuzia

    Colonial-style door casing embodies traditional elegance, perfect for homes with classic architecture. The cove-and-bead profile is a hallmark of this style, offering subtle decorative detail that enhances traditional settings without overwhelming the space. This profile typically features a concave curve (the cove) followed by a small, rounded projection (the bead), creating a timeless look that complements both formal and casual interiors.

    For those seeking a bit more visual interest, the ripple effect is an excellent choice within the Colonial style. This technique involves building out mitered corners from the door jamb using boards of varying widths. The result is a layered, dimensional look that adds depth to the room while maintaining a classic aesthetic. This approach works particularly well in spaces with ample wall area around the door, allowing the trim to become a focal point.

    Victorian Casing

    Victorian Door Casing on a front door
    Erin Little

    Victorian-era homes are known for their ornate woodwork, and door casing is no exception. Fluted door trim is a quintessential Victorian style, featuring narrow ribs or ridges that run the length of the trim boards. This detailing adds texture and visual interest, often complemented by an even more elaborate header piece.

    Rosettes are another distinctive feature of Victorian door casing. These decorative corner blocks traditionally feature a carved flower design in the center, though modern interpretations may include other motifs such as concentric circles, stars, or even animal imagery. Rosettes serve both a decorative and practical purpose, eliminating the need for precise mitered corners while adding a touch of elegance to the doorway.

    Country Casing

    Craftsman living room
    Stacy Zarin Goldberg

    In rustic or farmhouse-style homes, simplicity often reigns supreme. Straight-lined trim with a visible wood grain can beautifully complement the homey atmosphere of a country-inspired space. Opting for wood with natural knots and a distinct grain pattern adds character and warmth to the room, enhancing the overall rustic aesthetic.

    For a bolder look, consider installing side casing pieces on rectangular plinth blocks. This technique adds visual weight to the bottom of the doorway, grounding the trim and creating a sturdy, substantial appearance that fits well with farmhouse decor. Plinth blocks can be simple or decorative, depending on the desired level of detail.

    Craftsman-style homes often feature chunky door trim, typically 4 inches or wider. This bold casing style makes a strong statement while maintaining clean lines, perfectly aligning with the Craftsman emphasis on quality craftsmanship and natural materials. When opting for this style, ensure that the surrounding furniture and decor have similarly chunky proportions to create a cohesive look.

    Minimalist Casing

    Minimal Kitchen
    Anthony Tieuli

    For modern and contemporary homes, flat door casing offers a sleek, unobtrusive option. True to its name, this style lacks any profile or shape, creating a clean border around the door that blends seamlessly with minimalist decor. Those looking to add a subtle twist to flat casing might consider a flat-mitered installation. By installing the boards at an angle, you can create a beveled effect that adds depth and interest while maintaining a fuss-free style. 

    Alternatively, for the ultimate in minimalism, consider ultra-narrow door casing or even omitting the trim entirely. Slim trim creates an almost invisible transition between the door and wall, while going trim-free allows the door to blend completely with its surroundings. This can be especially effective for concealing access to utility areas or creating a seamless look in open-concept spaces, allowing the door to nearly disappear into the wall.

    Unconventional Casing

    Marble Door Casing
    Costas Picadas/GAP Interiors

    For those willing to think outside the box, door casing doesn’t have to be limited to wood or wood-like materials. Tile trim is playful and unexpected—and it’s certainly a smart choice for a moisture-prone space like a bathroom. This approach allows for creative use of color, pattern, and texture, turning the door casing into a true design feature.

    Marble casing represents the height of luxury in door trim options. While certainly a bold choice, marble casing can create a stunning, majestic impression in the right setting. This option works particularly well in high-end homes or as a focal point in entryways, adding an element of grandeur to the space.

    Painted Casing

    Dutch door with everything painted the same color.
    Bryan Miller

    The color of your door casing can significantly impact its overall effect in the room. Traditionally, doorway casing is painted in a contrasting or complementary shade to the walls, allowing it to stand out as a decorative element. This approach can help define doorways and add visual interest to the space. For a cohesive look, paint all the molding in the room, including baseboards and crown molding, in the same color as the door casing.

    A more modern approach is “color drenching,” where the door casing is painted the same color as the walls and other elements in the room. This monochromatic scheme creates a seamless, contemporary look that can make a space feel larger and more unified. Color drenching works particularly well in smaller rooms.

    Our Conclusion

    From traditional Colonial and Victorian designs to modern minimalist approaches, the right trim can significantly impact your space’s overall look and feel. Consider your home’s architecture, your personal style, and the function of each room when selecting door casing. Whether you opt for classic wood, unconventional materials, or a painted finish, the perfect door trim can elevate your interior design and add value to your home.

    Next Up In Doors

    This new alternative to gas generators makes it push-button easy to get the lights back on when the power goes out.

    by Sal Vaglica, Contributor
    Using a portable power station to power a fridge in a blackout.
    Adding a supplemental battery on top can extend run time. | Courtesy Anker

    This article appeared in the Fall 2023 issue of This Old House Magazine. 

    For years, losing power because of a storm or stressed infrastructure has usually meant keeping a gas generator on standby to get essentials up and running. While those gas-guzzling power plants deliver reliable energy, they come with several trade-offs: emissions, noise, maintenance, and a fussy starting procedure that worsens after long stints in the garage. But now there’s an option that behaves a lot like an electric vehicle (EV) or a battery-powered lawn mower. These “portable power stations” have a battery core that can run a range of household appliances and devices.

    On the less demanding side, they’re powerful enough to keep electronics—laptops, tablets, phones, and TVs—going for hours during an outage or a seasonal brownout. Paired with supplemental batteries and plug-in solar panels, they can become a capable, reliable system that can run a home’s largest appliances for days—emissions-free, quiet, with nary a spark plug to check, and with the push of a button.

    Whether you want to keep the fridge and a few lights running for 24 hours or the entire kitchen for a few days, there is a system to suit your needs. Here’s what you need to know to choose the right one.

    Which Portable Power Station is Right for You?

    While a portable power station offers push-button reliability, it isn’t the solution for every situation.

    Pros

    Using a portable power station to charge kitchen appliances
    Packing over 2,400 watt-hours of run time, Geneverse’s HomePower Two Pro (shown) will power a microwave for hours. Its new HomePower Pro Plus comes as a set of two base units that can be daisy chained together to run a kitchen’s worth of essentials. | Courtesy Geneverse
    • No emissions. Without a rumbling engine generating power, portable power stations are safe to use inside. They can get warm to the touch with heavy use, but never hot enough to burn children or pets. Because they’re quiet, they can be set up in a bedroom—or go to a campsite, tailgate, or cookout.
    • No maintenance. They don’t require gas or oil, and there is no filter to change. Tidy and compact, they’re easy to store indoors.
    • Cheaper and easier to run than a gas generator. Electricity is generally less expensive than fossil fuels. Paired with multiple solar panels, some batteries recharge in about 21/2 hours for free. Plugged into an outlet, some charge in about 2 hours.
    • Easy to use. With Bluetooth apps that provide control, myriad plugs and ports, and an LED readout that displays how much run time is left, portable power stations take the guesswork out of backup power.
    • Better for tech. They often have pure sine-wave inverters built in, which moderate the flow of energy for sensitive electronics like laptops. All feature built-in USB ports, unlike most gas generators.

    Cons

    • Pricey. For around 3,600 watt-hours, a portable power station can cost about seven times more than a readily available gas generator.
    • Needs peripherals to extend run time. Without spending more for expansion batteries and solar panels, portable power stations struggle to match the run time of gas generators and their easy-to-find and easy-to-store fuel. 
    • Not easily serviced. Gas engines have lots of moving parts, many of which can be replaced or repaired. While portable power stations can last from 5 to 15 years, repairing them isn’t likely to be an option.
    • Slow to recharge. Unless you plan to max out the number of solar panels a portable power station can support, recharging can take about 12 hours using the sun alone.
    • Needs to move around. Solar panels come with a cable that is about 10 feet long. Unless the portable power station is within that range, or you buy an extension cable, you’ll have to move it to the solar panels, which might mean carrying it out of the basement or down a flight of stairs. They can be heavy, weighing as much as 182 pounds.

    Pack on the Power

    Using backup batteries on a portable power station
    Courtesy Goal Zero

    Connecting to supplemental batteries helps scale up a portable power station to meet the demands of more devices or to extend run time.

    Many power stations can essentially double their capacity with an additional battery—essentially the same battery without the extra electronics. These also add weight—around 50 pounds or more—and cost. But not all power stations can add more than one, which is a key distinction if you want to power lots of appliances or specific circuits, like for a whole kitchen or bathroom.

    Some models can support up to four supplemental batteries; some can daisy chain to a second power station and its set of extra batteries. Expect to pay about 75 percent of the cost of the portable power station for an expansion battery. Adding one or two supplemental batteries for more capacity and enough solar panels to juice up the portable power station in a few hours can easily double or triple the cost. 

    Pick Your Battery Tech

    Portable power stations rely on various battery chemistries to provide juice—be sure to find out what a model uses before you buy. Below are the main types, each with its own pluses and minuses.

    Compact but temperature sensitive: lithium ion

    While lithium ion is the same form found in cordless tools and smartphones, it’s less common in bigger portable power stations that back up major appliances. Since it’s well established, lithium ion also tends to be less expensive per watt-hour. But manufacturers have moved away from it over the past few years because of its reputation for potentially combusting under heavy draw, its shorter cycle life, and its temperature sensitivity. The depth of discharge (DoD), which is the percentage of the cell that can be used before requiring a recharge, is 80 to 95 percent.

    Consistent and safer: lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4 or LFP)

    A newer version of lithium ion, LFP relies on iron phosphate, rather than cobalt oxide, at the ends of the battery cell. LFP chemistry has the edge when it comes to how many charge cycles it can handle. Lithium ion tends to step down to 80 percent of its original capacity after about 500 cycles, whereas LFP will last for 3,000 or more before reaching the same point.

    While they can be pricier than lithium ion, LFP batteries withstand more extreme temperatures—from about −4 to 140 degrees F—and are much less susceptible to overheating and igniting. LFP batteries can also reach 100 percent depth of discharge before requiring a recharge. 

    Energy dense but pricey: semisolid state 

    Unlike traditional lithium ion or LFP, a pouch-style semisolid-state battery does not rely on a liquid electrolyte solution to separate the two ends of a cell—at least not long-term. In a semisolid-state battery, that liquid inside thickens over time into a paste.

    That conversion fills every nook and cranny inside the battery. Compared with lithium ion, these batteries are more stable, especially if they’re damaged or dropped, and the chemistry offers more energy density than others. But the technology is relatively new, so cells cost more and might not outlast the life cycle of LFP batteries, though they have a similar depth of discharge rate.

    Inexpensive but needs a boost: lead acid

    One of the oldest forms, lead acid batteries are in virtually every car. This chemistry is inexpensive, safe, and reliable, but it lacks the long-term durability of lithium ion, which can last hundreds of more cycles. Its depth of discharge is around 50 percent, so these usually need expansion batteries or solar panels to make them a viable option.

    Frequently Asked Questions About Portable Power Stations

    Using solar panels to charge a portable power station.
    Courtesy Geneverse

    How long do they run?

    Larger-capacity portable power stations suitable for backup power range from 2,048 to over 6,000 watt-hours, which can run a typical refrigerator from about 12 to 38 hours before they require recharging. Expansion batteries can often double the watt-hours and run time, and plug-in solar panels keep them charged while you’re off the grid.

    What can they power?

    Along with most smaller electronic devices, like smartphones, tablets, and laptops, portable power stations can handle the load of larger household appliances like sump pumps, window air conditioners, and furnace fans. How long they can run higher-draw appliances depends on the battery capacity.

    What do they cost?

    Prices start at about $2,000 for a power station with 2,048 watt-hours and climb to about $5,400 for one with two and a half times as much power. Generally, expect to pay about $1 per watt-hour. Most manufacturers offer an expansion battery; this add-on costs less than the base station, which has plugs, ports, and controls.

    What’s the warranty?

    Warranties for portable power stations and their expansion batteries range from one to five years. Some manufacturers offer an extended warranty that adds an additional two or three years. Solar panels are usually warranted for one to three years.

    Portable Charging Stations: Choosing Wattage

    Picking the right product means assessing your wattage needs. Here’s what to know.

    Courtesy Goal Zero

    Total wattage vs. watt hours

    Sizing a portable power station, as with a gas generator, comes down to having a unit that can cover the total wattage you need to run essentials. Where it differs from a gas generator is in understanding watt hours (Wh), too. Watts describe the power supplied by the batteries. Watt-hours convert that into power consumption over a period of time. Watts tell you everything the battery can power simultaneously; watt- hours show you how long the juice will last once all the things plugged into it are running. Watt-hours are often less of a consideration with gas generators because they are faster to refuel. Like taking an EV on a road trip, using a portable power station requires planning to execute extended run time with solar panels and/or additional batteries.

    A transfer switch adds convenience

    Power stations hooked up to a transfer switch
    Courtesy Bluetti

    Tying a portable power station directly into your home’s electrical system means less downtime in a storm. An electrician wires a secondary switch box near the main circuit panel, allowing you to flip to battery power when the grid is down. This configuration lets homeowners decide which circuits are critical to power in an outage, like a furnace, certain lights, or outlets in the kitchen, and turn them on quickly literally with the flip of a switch. As with a gas generator, however, this is an option available only with some models.

    Running wattage vs. starting wattage

    For appliances that have a motor—refrigerators and HVAC equipment—there is running wattage, the power they need to keep working, and starting or surge wattage, the high initial draw to get things started. If an appliance doesn’t list starting wattage, triple the listed wattage as an estimate. Factoring in starting wattage is key to keeping a power station from being overwhelmed, and shutting off like a tripped breaker.

    Watt calculations

    Before adding up the power draw of all the appliances you want to run, it’s helpful to have these two formulas on hand:

    • Watts (W) = volts (V) × amperes (A)
    • Watt-hours = watts × 24 hours, for a full day

    The watt usage listed on a device is the amount of power drawn for a single hour. For some appliances, knowing the watts used in an hour is important, like a coffee maker or a toaster oven, which runs for infrequent bursts. For others, like a refrigerator, you’ll want to calculate the watt-hours to figure out how much power they draw over an entire day.

    Grab a pen and start tallying

    List all the essential appliances you want to run in a power outage. Find the watts of all the devices, including the starting wattage of bigger essentials like a refrigerator, a furnace fan, or a sump pump. Check the appliance’s sticker or owner’s manual, or search for it online using the model number. Add the watts together, adding in the highest starting wattage of the biggest appliance. That sum is the total wattage you need in an hour’s time. Now multiply that by 24 to get an idea of how much power you need to run everything for a full day. This equation is an estimate, of course, since most appliances are not running for 24 hours.

    Power Station Features

    Paying attention to these details can help you choose the best product for your needs.

    Wheeling a portable power station
    While the Anker Solix F2000 weighs about 70 pounds, wheels and a luggage-style handle help make it easier to move, even outdoors. | Courtesy Anker

    Portability pluses

    These power stations may weigh less than a gas generator with similar watts, but at about 70 to more than 180 pounds, they may still require an extra set of hands to get up and down stairs. Wheels and a handle can make them easier to move around inside—or outside—the house.

    Clear display

    A bright LCD display lets you know how much run time is left. Just like a smartphone, it also lets you know, based on what’ s plugged in, what percentage of battery remains and, when charging, spells out how much time remains until full power. Often an LED bar on top makes it easier to find and use the station in the dark.

    App control

    Most stations have a dedicated app that connects via Bluetooth and not Wi-Fi, so it works even without an Internet connection. It can let you know at a glance how much power is left and allows you to turn plugs and ports on or off remotely.

    Pass-through power

    The ability to draw power from a battery while it’s charging is an important feature, especially for longer stints of use. Many power stations support pass-through power so you can run devices while the battery is receiving a charge through the wall or solar panels.

    Power-saver

    Like a screen saver for a laptop, a power-conservation or eco mode shuts down the flow of energy once a connected USB device, like a tablet or smartphone, is fully charged. Some 120-volt plugs also have this feature for larger battery-powered devices, like a laptop.

    External battery ports

    Supplemental batteries that have their own USB ports add versatility to a system because you can charge devices away from the main power station.

    Backup power using power-tool batteries

    Power-tool companies offer portable power solutions of their own. While most can’t recharge through solar, they can help out during a storm.

    Ego Power+ Nexus Portable Power Station
    Power-tool companies offer portable power solutions of their own. While most can’t recharge through solar, they can help out during a storm. | Courtesy EGO POWER +
    • Ego Power+ Nexus Portable Power Station: Protected by a roll cage, Ego’s power station, left, can take up to four of the 56-volt batteries that power the brand’s lawn and garden tools, though it will work with just one. Depending on their amp-hours, they can run a TV for 21/2 to nearly 14 hours. With up to 2,000 watts, this station has the muscle to run a mini fridge for almost a day.
    • Milwaukee Tool M18 Carry-On Power Supply: Designed to replace a gas generator on a job site, Milwaukee’s power station uses four 18-volt batteries. The two 120-volt outlets are 15 amps to handle the high draw of tools like air compressors and corded saws. While it needs four batteries to turn on, it’s safe for delicate electronics like smartphones.
    • Ryobi 18V One+ Power Station: Plug in up to eight of the brand’s 18-volt batteries for 1,800 watts that will run tools and appliances, like a refrigerator, for hours. Or, depending on the batteries, run a TV for 1 to 8 hours. An LCD screen displays battery-charge levels. Rechargeable through a solar panel and with Bluetooth connectivity, the Ryobi behaves themost like a larger power station.

    Essential Receptacles for Portable Power Stations

    Common 120-volt outlets

    These are the backbone of any power station. Most have three or four, rated for typical 15-amp appliances. Some plugs have a T shape on one of the prongs, signaling that the circuit is rated for 20 amps, higher than a typical household plug. These deliver more power to demanding appliances like refrigerators, microwaves, and toasters without stressing the system.

    120- and 240-volt outlets

    These round outlets are designed to handle the draw of the biggest appliances, like freezers, window air conditioners, dryers, and sump pumps. You can convert these outlets to the more common ones with an adapter that accepts a standard plug.

    NEMA TT-30R outlet

    RV owners use this large, round plug to power systems inside, like a refrigerator and HVAC equipment, without a connection at a campsite. At home, this port also connects the portable power station to a transfer switch. With an adapter, it can charge an EV in a pinch, too.

    USB ports

    Typically, portable power stations have both USB-A and USB-C ports clustered together. Some USB-C ports are quick-charging to deliver more power. Nearly any small electronic device you need to power can plug right into these ports without taking up a traditional outlet with the transformer brick.

    Car sockets

    This round socket—sometimes called a cigarette-lighter port—accepts car plugs to power devices commonly found in an RV, like a small refrigerator or kettle. You can also pop in an adapter with USB ports to expand its ability to charge smaller electronic items.

    Wireless charging

    While not common, some portable power stations have an area on top that wirelessly charges devices like smartphones, earbuds, and speakers.

    Portable Power Station Options for Every Budget

    Anker Solix F2000

    Cost: $1,999

    With a 2,048-watt-hour, lithium-iron-phosphate-battery, this station is easy to move and has a user-friendly dashboard. Add one expansion battery for a total of 4,096 watt-hours; four 120-volt outlets handle a suite of kitchen appliances. The TT-30 port powers an RV.

    Anker Solix F2000

    EcoFlow Delta Pro

    Cost: $3,699

    Alone, the lithium- iron-phosphate battery provides 3,600 watt- hours; add two external batteries to handle a whole kitchen, or daisy chain a second power station for up to 25,000 watt-hours—ideal with a wired transfer switch to dedicated circuits.

    EcoFlow Delta Pro

    Zendure SuperBase V6400

    Cost: $6,999

    This semisolid-state battery offers more energy density—at a price. Its 6,438 watt-hours can run a larger
    appliance like an AC unit. It accepts up to four more batteries; two stations together can power an entire home with up to 64,000 watt-hours.

    Zendure SuperBase V6400

    Next Up In Electrical

    Here’s what you need to know to get and maintain a great-looking asphalt driveway.

    by Josh Garskof
    A brightly lit home with an asphalt driveway
    Nat Rea

    Asphalt driveways are durable and long-lasting, withstanding decades of use and extreme weather conditions. With proper installation and maintenance, an asphalt driveway can increase your home’s curb appeal and provide a smooth surface for various activities. Our guide walks you through the process of building and maintaining an asphalt driveway, from planning and installation to ongoing care and troubleshooting common issues.

    Pros and Cons of Asphalt Driveways

    Before undertaking an asphalt driveway project, learn about the pros and cons to help you make sure it’s the right choice for your home.

    Advantages of Asphalt Driveways

    • Is generally less expensive than concrete
    • Can last 15-20 years with proper maintenance
    • Small cracks and divots can be easily filled and repaired
    • Can withstand freeze-thaw cycles without cracking, making it ideal for colder climates
    • Can be installed relatively quickly compared to other materials

    Disadvantages of Asphalt Driveways

    • Can absorb and radiate heat because of its dark color, potentially increasing cooling costs in warm climates
    • Typically only comes in one color
    • Requires periodic sealing to maintain appearance and durability
    • Can soften slightly in very high temperatures
    • Oil and gasoline spills can leave permanent marks if not cleaned promptly

    Out with the old, in with the new

    Bulldozer breaking up old driveway asphalt
    iStock

    To repave an asphalt driveway that’s deteriorated beyond repair, a contractor will come in with a compact loader, or “Bobcat,” lift off the old asphalt, and dump it into a truck parked on the street to be carted away and recycled. The contractor will top off the aggregate sub-base of crushed stone, rake it flat, pitch it so water drains away from the house with a 2% cross-slope, and then compact it using a steel-wheeled roller and a vibrating compactor. The next day, a load of hot asphalt, typically about 300°F, will be laid using an adjustable-width paving machine and compressed and smoothed with a steel-wheeled roller and vibrating plate compactor. Depending on the thickness of the asphalt—a judgment call based largely on the thickness of the base course—you may need two layers.

    Planning Your Asphalt Driveway Project

    Once you’ve decided you want to install an asphalt driveway, this section will guide you through the steps to prepare for your project.

    Assessing Your Property

    Before installation, evaluate your property to make sure it’s suitable for an asphalt driveway:

    • Assess drainage patterns to prevent water pooling.
    • Check local regulations and obtain necessary permits.
    • Check the slope and grade of your property.
    • Identify any underground utilities that may need to be relocated.

    Budgeting for Your Driveway

    Asphalt driveway costs can vary depending on several factors:

    • Local labor costs
    • Site preparation requirements
    • Size of the driveway
    • Quality of materials used

    On average, expect to pay between $7 and $13 per square foot for a new asphalt driveway installation.*

    *Cost information based on 2024 reports from Angi and Asphalt Industrial.

    Anatomy of an Asphalt Driveway

    Blacktop is a combination of liquid asphalt and small-stone aggregate—sometimes with additives for strength, flexibility, and water resistance. Whether you’re replacing asphalt or installing it for the first time, it pays to understand what goes into a proper installation. When comparing different driveway materials, asphalt’s layered construction offers unique benefits for durability and maintenance.”

    A) Subgrade: For a new driveway installation, the site should be excavated deep enough to match the thickness of the driveway’s components. We’re using 12 inches here, but the depth can vary depending on local soil conditions, so the finished surface will align with the lawn, walkways, garage entrance, and so forth. Then, the soil gets compacted. For asphalt replacements, though, the subgrade typically doesn’t need any work.

    A diagram showing layers on a driveway including asphalt.
    Peter Sucheski

    B) Sub-base: This should be 8 inches of crushed stone, which is a product that has been fractured so it has angular edges that interlock under compression. The best option is aggregate base course, also known as“crusher run,” a mix of stone of every size from about 3/8 inch down to stone dust, so it knits together extremely well. “The idea is to compact it so well that it’s watertight,” says This Old House mason Mark McCullough.

    C) Binder course of asphalt: Depending on the depth of the aggregate base—every additional 3 inches of aggregate generally means 1 inch less of asphalt—the asphalt is ideally put down in two layers. The first is a binder course, which contains 2 1/2 inches of 5/8-inch aggregate. The binder course gets flattened and compressed with a steel roller and a vibrating plate compactor where the roller won’t go. It is then raked to give it a textured finish that will provide good adhesion with the next course.

    D) Finish course of asphalt: The surface course, or topcoat, can be installed immediately, but if there will be construction vehicles using the driveway during a large-scale renovation, it’s common to wait until any home improvement projects are complete. This 1 1/2-inch layer contains 3/8-inch aggregate. It gets flattened and compressed with a steel roller and a vibrating plate compactor where the roller won’t go, and the edges get compacted using specialized hand tools for a flat, smooth, watertight finish.

    Asphalt Driveway Installation Process

    Understanding the installation process can help you make sure your contractor is following best practices. Here’s an overview of the typical steps involved in asphalt driveway installation.

    Site Preparation and Excavation

    The first step in the installation is preparing the site:

    • Remove existing pavement or vegetation.
    • Excavate to the required depth (typically 8-12 inches).
    • Grade and slope the area for proper drainage.
    • Compact the soil to create a stable base.

    Laying the Foundation

    A solid foundation is required for a long-lasting asphalt driveway:

    • Install a geotextile fabric to prevent soil from mixing with the base material (optional).
    • Add a layer of crushed stone or gravel (usually 8 inches thick).
    • Compact the base material thoroughly using heavy machinery.

    Applying and Compacting Asphalt Layers

    The final stage involves laying and compacting the asphalt:

    • Apply a 2. 5-inch binder course of larger aggregate asphalt.
    • Compact the binder course with a steel roller.
    • Apply a 1. 5-inch surface course of finer aggregate asphalt.
    • Compact the surface course for a smooth, even finish.

    Maintenance for Asphalt Driveways

    Regular care can prevent minor issues from becoming major problems. Here are some best practices to keep your driveway in tip-top shape.

    Regular Cleaning and Inspection

    • Sweep or blow debris off the surface regularly.
    • Clean oil and gas spills promptly to prevent staining.
    • Inspect for cracks or damage at least twice per year.

    Sealing Your Asphalt Driveway

    Sealing protects your driveway from water damage and UV rays. Follow these tips:

    • Wait at least six months after installation before first sealing.
    • Clean the surface thoroughly before applying the sealer.
    • Use a squeegee or brush to apply an even coat of sealer.
    • Allow the sealer to dry completely before use (usually 24–48 hours).

    Seal your driveway every 3-5 years or when the surface begins to look gray and worn.

    A man pouring sealing fluid over an asphalt driveway
    Shutterstock

    Addressing Cracks and Potholes

    Repairing cracks and potholes promptly can prevent more extensive damage. Here’s how:

    • Clean out debris from cracks or holes.
    • Fill small cracks with a liquid crack filler.
    • For larger cracks or potholes, use a cold asphalt patch material.
    • Compact the filled area to establish a smooth surface.
    Illustration of driveway permeation, including a layer of asphalt.
    Peter Sucheski

    Improving Your Asphalt Driveway’s Appearance

    Asphalt driveways are typically plain black, but there are ways to improve the appearance and better complement your home.

    Decorative Edging Options

    Add visual interest to your driveway with these edging ideas:

    • Install brick or stone pavers along the edges.
    • Create a stamped concrete border.
    • Use contrasting colored asphalt for a decorative edge.

    Landscaping Around Your Driveway

    Thoughtful landscaping can soften the look of your asphalt driveway:

    • Plant low-growing shrubs or flowers along the edges.
    • Install landscape lighting to illuminate the driveway at night.
    • Use decorative gravel or river rocks in adjacent areas.
    An asphalt Driveway surrounded by hydrangeas
    Roger Foley/Designed by Katia Goffin Gardens

    Design Ideas

    Here are some other ideas from McCullough to inspire your asphalt driveway project.

    <strong>Cobblestone edging: </strong>Adding rows of granite blocks dresses up even the simplest straight- run driveway. Just make sure to do it right. McCullough’s method: Install a concrete base along the edges of the driveway just below its surface, then bed the cobblestones in it with mortar. “Without the concrete, they’ll get pushed all over the place,” he says. He typically doesn’t put any mor- tar between the cobblestones where they sit along the top of the pavement, however,so water can drain off the driveway. – Kolin Smith
    1 of 4

    How To Fix Fissures and Divots in Asphalt Driveways

    Here are McCullough’s steps for addressing cracks and other imperfections that may happen from wear and tear.

    Fixing Fissures

    To fix a crack, first clean out any debris, dirt, and plant material. If it’s a hairline crack, use an angle grinder with a masonry bit to widen the crack to the width of the blade. Fill the crack with a melt-in crack filler, which is a cord that you press into the crack and then melt with a propane torch. Cover that with a trowel on asphalt-patching material, and melt that in place with the propane torch.

    Filling Divots

    Home centers offer all the supplies you’ll need, and each product has its own specific instructions. To fill a driveway divot, you’ll want to cut even edges around the damaged area using a circular saw fitted with a masonry blade; then lay down a couple of inches of stone and compact it with a hand tamper. Add a wood form if the repair is at the edge of the driveway, then fill the void with a cold asphalt patch, which comes as a ready-to-use bagged product designed to provide a flexible repair. Make sure to overfill the hole by 2 to 3 inches, then compact it with a hand tamper. Finally, lay plywood over the top and drive the car over it a few times to compress the patch as much as possible.

    Troubleshooting Other Common Asphalt Driveway Issues

    Even well-maintained asphalt driveways can develop problems over time. Knowing how to address these issues can help extend your driveway’s lifespan.

    Water Drainage Problems

    Poor drainage can lead to premature deterioration of your driveway:

    • Check for proper sloping away from your home and garage.
    • Install a channel drain at the base of sloped driveways.
    • Address any low spots that collect water.

    Preventing and Repairing Edge Deterioration

    The edges of asphalt driveways are often the first areas to show damage:

    • Avoid driving on driveway edges.
    • Install edge restraints during initial construction.
    • Repair crumbling edges promptly with a cold patch material.

    Weeds and Moss Growth

    Weeds and moss can infiltrate asphalt driveways, especially if there are cracks or weak spots on the surface. Here’s how to keep your driveway clear from invasive growth:

    • Apply moss liller: Use a moss control solution specifically designed for asphalt surfaces to eliminate and prevent moss growth.
    • Regular weeding: Remove any visible weeds by hand or use a weeding tool that won’t damage the asphalt surface.
    • Seal cracks: Make sure all cracks are sealed to prevent weeds and moss from taking root.

    Eco-Friendly Options for Asphalt Driveways

    As environmental concerns grow, more homeowners are looking for sustainable driveway options. Asphalt can be an eco-friendly choice when certain techniques and materials are used.

    Porous Asphalt

    Porous asphalt allows water to drain through the surface, reducing runoff. Here are some of the pros and cons:

    • Helps recharge groundwater and reduce pollutants.
    • May require more frequent maintenance to prevent clogging.
    • Requires a deeper stone bed for water storage.

    Recycled Asphalt Materials

    Using recycled materials in your asphalt mix can reduce your environmental impact. Here’s what to know:

    • Recycled asphalt pavement (RAP) can be incorporated into new mixes.
    • Some mixes use recycled rubber from tires.
    • These options can be just as durable as traditional asphalt.

    Sustainable Installation Practices

    You can also incorporate sustainable practices during installation process, such as the following:

    • Implement energy-efficient equipment for construction and compaction procedures.
    • Reduce material waste by calculating precise measurements and ordering the exact amount of asphalt needed.
    • Use locally sourced materials to lower transportation emissions.
    A winterized asphalt driveway.
    Ellen McDermott

    Winterizing Your Asphalt Driveway

    Proper care in the winter is crucial for an asphalt driveway, especially in colder climates.

    Protecting Against Freeze-Thaw Cycles

    Freeze-thaw cycles can cause significant damage to asphalt. Here’s how to prevent it:

    • Apply a winter-specific sealant for extra protection.
    • Maintain proper drainage to prevent water accumulation.
    • Make sure all cracks are sealed before winter.

    Snow and Ice Removal Best Practices

    Proper snow and ice management can also prevent damage. Follow these tips:

    • Use plastic shovels instead of metal to avoid scratching the surface.
    • Avoid using rock salt; opt for calcium chloride or magnesium chloride instead.
    • Remove snow promptly to prevent compaction and ice formation.

    Deicing Alternatives

    Standard rock salt isn’t ideal for asphalt driveways because it’s corrosive Here are some safer alternatives:

    • Calcium magnesium acetate: Effective and less harmful to the asphalt.
    • Kitty litter: Can add traction in a pinch, though it may leave residue.
    • Sand: Provides traction without causing damage, though it does not melt the ice.

    Tips for Hiring a Paving Contractor for an Asphalt Driveway

    Here are the steps McCullough recommends taking when looking for a good paving contractor.

    Go to the Source

    Don’t rely on the internet to find contractors. Visit a local, independent supply yard for asphalt (or whatever paving material you’re installing), and ask at the desk who the best residential contractors are. “They know who’s always got jobs, who’s keeping a big crew of experienced guys employed, who’s reliable about paying their bills,” McCullough explains.

    Get the Facts

    Mark McCullough Portrait as he works on an asphalt driveway
    Anthony Tieuli

    “I remember when you could get three bids, all the prices would be similar, they’d all be serious contractors, and you could safely select the low bidder. Now I see people get into trouble with the wrong contractor on a weekly basis.”—TOH Mason Mark McCullough

    When you meet the contractors, they should be willing to take the time to talk through their process, explain in detail what they’ll use for a base course and how thick it will be, tell you whether they’ll use two courses of asphalt, and so on. And a contractor should be wearing boots, driving a truck, and have strong, calloused hands. “If he shows up in a Cadillac and dress shoes, this is not your guy,” McCullough says.

    Talk to Clients

    Ask for some recent customers—some with just-completed projects and some that are a few years old—and try to meet them in person to ask about working with the contractor and whether they would do so again while checking out the work firsthand.

    Asphalt needs to be seal-coated, McCullough says. Not right after it’s installed, but within five years or so, the liquid asphalt gets depleted by the elements. “Once it goes from black to gray, it’s time to seal.” McCullough says the DIY products sold at the home center—bituminous or acrylic-based liquids that dry in place—are just as good as what the pros use. “The advantage of hiring it out is that you won’t be covered in asphalt sealer,” he adds.

    The coating protects the asphalt from water and ultraviolet light; it also blackens the graying surface, which many people like. You’ll need to clip away an overhanging grass, clean the surface with a degreaser, paint primer over any stains, cut in the edges with a brush, and mop down the sealer over the rest of the driveway. Plan to throw away the clothes you wear, including your gloves, McCullough says.

    Next Up In Driveways

    Join the This Old House team as we follow an extensive renovation to make life easier for one young boy and his family. The team aims to make their home safer, more accessible, and easier to navigate for anyone with a mobility challenge, and the transformation of this modern midcentury home will be life-changing.

    by Tom Scalisi

    Individuals with mobility issues have specific needs that many non-disabled people don’t fully realize. While a typical home can include stairs, thresholds, uneven floors, tubs, and tall appliances, these features can make moving around difficult and unsafe for those who experience mobility challenges.

    For Michelle Werner and Billy Lester of Lexington, Massachusetts, these standard features create dangerous and difficult barriers for their 13-year-old son, Caffrey. Inspired by their story, the team at This Old House wanted to document the renovation of their house to highlight accessibility features that will give Caffrey full access to his home. As we get started on this project, we wanted to take the time to share more information about Caffrey’s disease, called Duchenne muscular dystrophy.

    Caffrey’s Challenges

    Even when Caffrey was a baby, Michelle and Billy noticed that he was slow to reach the physical milestones, such as rolling over, sitting up, and other gross motor skills, at the expected stages. At around 9 months old, Caffrey was diagnosed with hypertonia, which causes low muscle tone. His doctor told Billy and Michelle that their son would catch up to his peers in his own time.

    As the years progressed, Caffrey continued to struggle to meet milestones, including activities like riding a bike. After many additional trips to specialists and pediatricians and undergoing several medical tests, Caffrey was officially diagnosed with Duchenne muscular dystrophy when he was around 10 years old. 

    What is Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy?

    Duchenne muscular dystrophy (DMD) is a rare genetic disorder that causes progressive muscle degeneration and affects fewer than 50,000 people in the U.S., according to the Genetic and Rare Diseases Information Center.

    In a typical body, whenever muscles are used—whether during exercising, walking, or even simple bodily functions like breathing or pumping blood—tissues break down. To repair themselves, muscle fibers require a protein called dystrophin. Dystrophin is missing in individuals who have DMD, which prevents their muscles from functioning or repairing themselves properly.

    With this degenerative disease, the muscles lose strength, function, and flexibility over time. Eventually, as the critical muscles weaken, people with DMD find walking, standing, or breathing harder to do. These are the challenges that Caffrey faces, and because of his initial diagnosis of hypertonia, the early therapy he received may have caused the disease to progress more rapidly. Another unfortunate consequence is that he was unable to enter clinical trials at 10 years old.

    A Family in Transition

    Homeowners
    The family—from left, Caffrey, 13; Billy Lester; Marlowe, 11; Michelle Werner; and Wix, 16—is dedicated to creating a house that can handle whatever comes in the future. | Anthony Tieuli

    When Michelle changed careers from pharmaceuticals to biotech, the family moved from New Jersey to be close to the Cambridge, Massachusetts area, which is a hub for biotech companies. They bought a spacious midcentury modern-style home in nearby Lexington, Massachusetts. While the home has plenty of room for the family’s three children, the design of the house presents some accessibility issues.

    The challenges with the house

    Originally built in 1960, the family’s home saw several additions over the years. The sprawling house left the home feeling disjointed and lacking much flow or cohesiveness from one addition to the next. For instance, the addition of the three-car garage with a primary suite above it is on the other side of the house from the kids’ bedrooms.

    But the home’s additions also hugely impact Caffrey and his daily life. Floor heights change frequently when moving from space to space, creating tall thresholds that Caffrey’s condition will thwart him from navigating. Caffrey is also expected to be wheelchair-bound within a year, preventing him from moving from floor to floor via stairs. While Billy happily carries him now, the wheelchair will soon make this impossible.

    Then, there are all the small details that will affect his day-to-day living. Light switches, faucets, and doors will become difficult for Caffrey to operate, removing any chance of independence he may have within his own home.

    The improvements on the horizon

    Recognizing that Caffrey and his family have specific needs, the architects at Ruhl Jahnes and Silva Brothers Construction are stepping up to change their home—and their lives—in the process. There are many modifications on the docket to improve the entire flow of the home, most of which will make Caffrey’s life a bit easier as he deals with the challenges of Duchenne muscular dystrophy.

    • A relocated and improved the entryway to the home, with access to the front door by a covered outdoor ramp.
    • All exterior doors will have flush thresholds leading to the outside.
    • The outdoor family space will be a smooth, flat, easily navigated surface.
    • A small outdoor hydrotherapy pool with a lift system will be installed out back.
    • The kitchen will be expanded, giving Caffrey full access to all the appliances.
    • A curbless shower and grab bars in his bathroom will make the space more accessible for Caffrey to preserve some of his independence.
    • Adding a new primary suite in the back will allow the parents to be closer to Caffrey.
    • An elevator gives full access to the lower-level family area, where the kids hang out.
    • The addition of smart home technology in the form of smart switches and automatic lighting, motion-activated faucets, motorized doors, and other upgrades will allow Caffrey to navigate the home safely as his condition progresses.

    Watch Caffrey’s Home Renovation on This Old House

    Watch season 45 of This Old House as the team works to make a mid-century home more accessible. Between the significant structural renovations and the implementation of the latest in accessibility and technology, this family of five will soon be able to live, work, and play together.

    Season 45 of This Old House is now airing on PBS (check your local listings) and streaming free on The Roku Channel.

    Next Up In Season 45 - Lexington Modern

    This Old House DIY expert and House One editor Jenn Largesse shows how to build a rolling kitchen cart with a butcher-block top.

    by Jenn Largesse, This Old House DIY Expert & Editor, House One

    Project details

    Skill

    3 out of 5Moderate

    Cost

    About $175

    Estimated Label

    About 5 hours
    Easy DIY, Mobile Kitchen Island, Jenn Largesse, TOH, Fall 2023, Preparing the Leg
    Mock Tuna

    “We could use just a bit more counter space,” I said to my husband as I stood and looked around our kitchen. He laughed. After all, I had just spent months completely remodeling the space—building new upper cabinets, demoing a pantry wall, replacing the backsplash, installing flooring and lighting, and then having it painted when the work was done.

    But while I was a bit tired from the nonstop projects, I knew the space was calling for a kitchen cart. So, I headed back into my workshop. 

    The result? A 25-by-50-inch butcher-block work surface atop a sturdy open-frame cart with tapered legs, a slatted shelf, hooks and a towel bar for hanging storage, and heavy-duty locking casters so it’s easy to glide out of the way should a smidge more space be needed for, say, a family dance party. At just under $200 for materials, this last kitchen project was well worth the extra effort. Read on to see how you can make one of your own. 

    Getting Started

    Easy DIY, Mobile Kitchen Island, Jenn Largesse, TOH, Fall 2023, Preparing the Leg, Illustration
    Christopher Mills

    When designing a kitchen around a fixed island, a good rule of thumb is to allow at least 36 inches of clearance on all sides. But since this cart can be wheeled around, I threw the rule out the window and sized the base to accommodate an off-the-shelf butcher-block top that I found at my local home center.

    At only $80, the 1½-inch-thick, 25-by-50-inch unfinished butcher-block top was a much more affordable solution than buying a quartzite slab to match our countertops. I chose a stain that complemented my kitchen’s color palette to finish it. 

    Cut list 

    • 2 x 4 legs: 4 @ 32 ¾ inches
    • 1 x 6 short rails: 2 @ 19 inches
    • 1 x 6 long rails: 2 @ 40 inches 
    • 1 x 4 long stretchers: 2 @ 41 inches (Cut to fit.)
    • 1 x 4 short stretchers: 2 @ 19 inches
    • 1 x 4 center rail: 1 @ 20 ½ inches 
    • 1 x 2 long cleats: 2 @ 41 inches (Cut to fit.)
    • 1 x 2 short cleats: 2 @ 19 inches 
    • 1 x 6 slats: 7 @ 14 ½ inches

    Tools

    Tools & Materials

    Materials

    How to Build a DIY Mobile Kitchen Cart (Step-by-Step)

    Step 1: Mke the legs and rails

    Make the legs and rails, Device, Power Drill, Tool, Easy DIY, Mobile Kitchen Island, Jenn Largesse, TOH, Fall 2023, Preparing the Leg
    Mock Tuna

    Use a miter saw to cut the legs and rails to length following the cut list at www.thisoldhouse.com. Next, lay out the taper on each leg following the measurements on the illustration at left; then, use a saw guide and a circular saw to cut along the line. Using a pocket-hole jig, drill the pocket holes as indicated on the drawing. 

    Step 2: Attach the long rails to the legs

    Attach the long rails to the legs, Device, Power Drill, Tool, Easy DIY, Mobile Kitchen Island, Jenn Largesse, TOH, Fall 2023, Preparing the Leg
    Mock Tuna

    Place a long rail between two legs, clamped with the tapered edges facing inward. Using wood glue and 1¼-inch pocket-hole screws, attach the rail flush with the tops of the legs. Repeat with the remaining pair of legs and long rail. 

    Step 3: Size and install the long stretchers

    Size and install the long stretchers, Device, Power Drill, Tool, Easy DIY, Mobile Kitchen Island, Jenn Largesse, TOH, Fall 2023, Adult, Male, Man, Person, Woodworking
    Mock Tuna

    Draw a line 3 inches up from the bottom of each leg. Next, position a long stretcher under a leg assembly so that its bottom edge touches the line and mark out the miter angle. Using the line, cut the rail to fit, then drill the pocket holes and attach it to the legs. Repeat with the opposite side.

    Step 4: Add the short rails and stretchers

    Add the short rails and stretchers, Device, Power Drill, Tool, Easy DIY, Mobile Kitchen Island, Jenn Largesse, TOH, Fall 2023, Adult, Male, Man, Person, Woodworking
    Mock Tuna

    Using glue and pocket-hole screws, attach the short rails and stretchers to a leg assembly. Make sure that the edges align with the previously installed boards. Flip the assembly over and screw the rails and stretcher to the remaining leg assembly. 

    Step 5: Attach the cleats

    Attach the cleats, Device, Power Drill, Tool, Easy DIY, Mobile Kitchen Island, Jenn Largesse, TOH, Fall 2023, Adult, Male, Man, Person, Woodworking
    Mock Tuna

    Cut the cleats to fit. Using a spacer to ensure that the shelf boards will sit flush with the stretcher, attach the cleats to the stretchers with glue and 1¼-inch nails. 

    Step 6: Notch and install the shelf slats

    Notch and install the shelf slats, Device, Power Drill, Tool, Easy DIY, Mobile Kitchen Island, Jenn Largesse, TOH, Fall 2023, Adult, Male, Man, Person, Woodworking
    Mock Tuna

    Install the slats from the outside in. First, use a jigsaw to notch the outermost slats so that they fit around the legs. Next, dry-fit the slats to check the spacing—aim for ¾-inch gaps—and then secure them to the cleats with glue and nails. 

    Step 7: Finish the base

    Finish the base, Device, Power Drill, Tool, Easy DIY, Mobile Kitchen Island, Jenn Largesse, TOH, Fall 2023, AAdult, Desk, Female, Furniture, Person, Table, Woman
    Mock Tuna

    Fill screw holes, sand, and then paint the base. Next, install a towel bar (I used a long cabinet pull) on one end and hooks along the front. Drill a hole in the bottom of each leg, tap in a tee nut until it sits flush with the wood, and then thread the casters into the tee nuts. 

    Step 8: Top it off

    Finish the base, Device, Power Drill, Tool, Easy DIY, Mobile Kitchen Island, Jenn Largesse, TOH, Fall 2023, Adult, Device, Power Drill, Tool
    Mock Tuna

    Finish the butcher block with one coat of stain and two coats of polyurethane. Once dry, set it upside down on your work surface on a towel to prevent scratches. To attach the base, drill recesses in the rails for the figure-eight fasteners, as shown on the illustration.

    Adjust the depth so that the fasteners are flush with the top edge. Center the base on the top, and attach it with ¾-inch screws. Flip the cart over, and it’s ready to roll. 

    Next Up In House One

    With these tips, you can enjoy your pollen-free patio furniture all season long.

    by Tom Scalisi
    Pouf and rattan chair on wooden patio with settee in the garden during summer.
    iStock

    Spring and summer bring warm weather and blooming gardens, but they also usher in pollen season. This fine yellow dust settles on everything outside, including your patio furniture. Luckily, removing pollen isn’t difficult. Let’s go over some effective ways to clean pollen from different types of patio furniture so you can enjoy your outdoor space without the yellow haze.

    How Does Pollen Affect Your Outdoor Furniture?

    Pollen is a fine powder produced by trees, grasses, and weeds for plant reproduction. During peak pollen seasons, it covers your outdoor surfaces with a thin yellow film. This affects the appearance of your patio furniture and can trigger allergies, making your outdoor space less inviting.

    Because pollen is sticky, it can cling to various surfaces and is hard to remove. Different furniture materials may need specific cleaning methods to get rid of pollen without causing damage.

    What You’ll Need for Pollen Removal

    Gather the supplies you need before you start cleaning. These items help you clean different types of patio furniture safely and effectively.

    Cleaning Supplies

    Protective Gear

    • Dust mask (especially important for allergy sufferers)
    • Gloves
    • Safety glasses
    Tools & Materials
    Tools & Materials

    How To Prepare Your Patio Furniture for Cleaning

    Before diving into the cleaning process, take some preparatory steps to make your job easier.

    Start by gently wiping down the furniture with a dry microfiber cloth. This will remove loose pollen and prevent it from spreading during cleaning. For fabric surfaces, use a vacuum with an upholstery attachment to remove as much pollen as possible.

    If possible, remove cushions, fabric covers, and other detachable parts. These pieces often have different cleaning needs than the furniture frame. Set them aside for separate cleaning to make sure you thoroughly remove the pollen from all areas. If the cushions aren’t removable, just avoid scrubbing the surface with a brush or sponge.

    How To Clean Pollen Off Wood and Nonporous Surfaces

    Different surfaces require specific cleaning approaches. Here’s how to tackle pollen on wood and nonporous materials like plastic and metal.

    Dry Cleaning

    For light pollen deposits, start with the following dry cleaning methods:

    1. Wipe down the surface with a microfiber cloth.
    2. Use a soft-bristled brush for textured surfaces to loosen pollen in crevices.
    3. Follow up with another wipe-down using a clean microfiber cloth.

    Wet Cleaning

    For more stubborn pollen, try these methods:

    1. Mix a solution of warm water and mild dish soap in a spray bottle. If desired, add a few drops of mint, lavender, or lemon essential oil to make the furniture less desirable for insects (though the effect will only be temporary). Don’t add oils if your furniture has fabric.
    2. Spray the solution on the furniture and let it sit for five minutes.
    3. Scrub gently with a coarse sponge or soft-bristled brush.
    4. Rinse thoroughly with a garden hose.
    5. Dry the furniture with a clean microfiber cloth to prevent water spots.

    For materials that can handle it, you can use a pressure washer on a low setting. Avoid using it on wicker or delicate wood.

    How To Remove Pollen Stains From Outdoor Fabrics and Cushions

    Fabric surfaces need special care to remove pollen without harming the material.

    Vacuuming and Brushing

    Start by vacuuming the fabric with an upholstery attachment. Use the crevice tool to clean seams and edges. Gently brush the fabric with a soft-bristled brush to loosen any remaining pollen.

    Deep Cleaning

    For set-in pollen stains, do the following:

    1. Mix a solution of warm water and mild dish soap in a bucket.
    2. Dip a clean microfiber cloth into the solution and gently scrub the fabric.
    3. Use a toothbrush for stubborn areas or on seams.
    4. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
    5. Let the fabric air dry completely before reattaching it to the furniture.

    How To Clean Wicker Furniture

    Wicker furniture needs gentle handling. We recommend this process:

    1. Use a soft-bristled brush to remove loose pollen from crevices.
    2. Wipe down with a damp microfiber cloth.
    3. For stubborn pollen, use a mild soap solution and a soft brush.
    4. Rinse gently with a low-pressure hose.
    5. Allow to air dry completely to prevent mold growth.

    Removing Pollen From Metal Surfaces

    Metal furniture is often easier to clean using the following steps:

    1. Wipe down with a damp microfiber cloth.
    2. For stubborn pollen, use a mild soap solution and a soft sponge.
    3. Rinse thoroughly and dry to prevent water spots.

    You can also apply a metal polish after cleaning to further protect the surface.

    Tips for Preventing Pollen Build-Up on Patio Furniture

    Taking steps to prevent pollen from settling on your furniture can reduce the need for frequent deep cleaning and keep your patio furniture looking fresh:

    • Use furniture covers when the furniture isn’t in use.
    • Store cushions and fabric items indoors during high pollen seasons.
    • Keep smaller furniture pieces in a shed or garage during peak pollen times.

    Advanced Techniques for Stubborn Pollen Stains

    For particularly tough pollen stains, you can create a paste using baking soda and water. Apply the paste to the stain and let sit for 15–20 minutes, then gently scrub with a soft brush. Rinse thoroughly and let the piece dry.

    For fabric stains, commercial fabric cleaners designed for outdoor use are available. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.

    Using Enzyme Cleaners

    Enzyme cleaners can be very effective for breaking down pollen. These cleaners contain natural enzymes that digest pollen, making it easier to remove.

    Here’s how to use an enzyme cleaner formulated for outdoor fabrics and surfaces:

    1. Spray or apply the cleaner directly to the pollen stain.
    2. Follow the instructions regarding the time needed for the enzymes to work.
    3. Wipe clean with a microfiber cloth and rinse the area as directed.

    When To Seek Professional Cleaning Services

    You can clean most pollen at home, but there are times when professional help might be necessary. Professionals provide specialized care to keep your furniture in top condition. We recommend bringing in a pro in these situations:

    • For expensive or antique furniture pieces
    • If you have severe pollen allergies
    • When dealing with large-scale pollen accumulation
    • If you notice mold or mildew along with pollen stains

    Next Up In Cleaning

    Get rid of clogs in your faucet aerator with these simple cleaning steps.

    by Tom Scalisi
    In this video, This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey shows you how to diagnose and solve a clogged aerator problem

    A faucet aerator may be small, but it plays a central role in your bathroom and kitchen sinks. These small components help introduce air into the water stream, reducing splashing and water consumption. But over time, they can become clogged with minerals, sediment, and rust, leading to restricted water flow.

    In the video above, This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey shows you how to diagnose and solve a clogged aerator problem. Our guide also offers maintenance tips to keep our faucets running properly.

    What Are Faucet Aerators?

    Faucet aerators are hollow metal cylinders that screw onto the tip of the faucet spout. They’re designed to create a clearer, more controlled stream of water. With the introduction of water conservation laws, aerators have also become a convenient way to incorporate flow restrictors. 

    They contain several components that regulate water flow and minimize splashing. The metal or plastic screen breaks the water into smaller streams, while the rubber washer creates a tight seal to prevent leaks. Some models feature a retaining disc or flow restrictor to conserve water while maintaining adequate pressure.

    Faucet aerators offer multiple benefits for homeowners, including reduced water consumption, decreased splashing, and improved perceived water pressure. By adding air to the water stream, aerators maintain pressure while using less water, making them an efficient tool for conserving resources without compromising performance. This can lead to noticeable savings on water bills over time.

    Common Causes of Clogged Aerators

    Various factors can contribute to aerator clogs, including:

    • Debris from plumbing work, such as metal shavings or particles, become lodged in the aerator.
    • Mineral buildup from hard water gradually accumulates on the aerator screen.
    • Rust particles from older pipes break off and collect in the aerator.
    • Sediment accumulation from water supplies obstructs the small openings in the aerator.

    Signs of a Clogged Faucet Aerator

    Here are some common signs that your faucet aerator is clogged:

    • Reduced water flow or pressure: A clogged or dirty aerator reduces the flow from your faucet, leading to weaker water pressure. This can make tasks like washing dishes or filling a sink take longer.
    • Strange noises coming from the faucet: A clogged aerator can cause hissing or whistling noises when you turn the faucet on. Water struggles to pass through the restricted openings, leading to these unusual sounds.
    • Uneven or splashing water stream: The water stream may come out unevenly or splash more than normal, making the faucet harder to use without causing splashing.
    • Visible debris or discoloration in the water: Debris, like rust or sediment stuck in the aerator, can lead to small particles or discoloration. This often means the aerator needs cleaning or replacement.

    How To Clean a Faucet Aerator

    Cleaning a clogged faucet aerator is a simple DIY task that improves water flow. Follow these steps to clean your aerator.

    Tools and Materials Needed

    You’ll need the following supplies for your aerator project:

    • Cup or bowl
    • Old toothbrush
    • Rubber jar lid opener
    • Small metal pick or screwdriver
    • Towel
    • Toothpick
    • Tongue and groove pliers
    • White vinegar

    Step-by-Step Cleaning Process

    1. Prepare the sink by clearing any dishes.
    2. Lay a towel over the drain to prevent small parts from falling in.
    3. Remove the aerator by unscrewing it counterclockwise. If it’s stubborn, use a rubber jar lid opener or pliers with care to avoid damage.
    4. Use a small metal pick or screwdriver to scrape out visible sediment from the aerator.
    5. Take apart the aerator, carefully removing the rubber washer, restrictor or retaining discs, and screen. We recommend placing the parts in order and taking a picture for reference.
    6. Soak the aerator parts in white vinegar for several hours or overnight to dissolve mineral deposits.
    7. After soaking, scrub the parts with an old toothbrush and clear any clogged holes with a toothpick.
    8. Reassemble the aerator using your reference photo as a guide.
    9. Reinstall the aerator on the faucet, tightening it by hand. Use the jar lid opener or pliers to get a snug fit if necessary.
    10. Test the water flow to confirm proper function and check for any leaks around the aerator.

    When To Replace Your Faucet Aerator

    While cleaning can often restore the aerator’s function, sometimes replacement is necessary. We recommend replacing your aerator in the following situations:

    • Cleaning doesn’t improve water flow: If cleaning the aerator does not restore normal water flow or pressure, it may be too worn or damaged to function properly.
    • Decreased water pressure: Persistent low water pressure that cleaning does not resolve might suggest that the aerator needs to be replaced.
    • Frequent clogging: If the aerator frequently clogs despite regular cleaning, you may need to replace it for consistent water flow.
    • Incompatible with new fixtures: An older aerator might not fit properly with updated faucet or plumbing fixtures, requiring a replacement.
    • The aerator is visibly corroded or calcified: Significant corrosion or calcification on the aerator indicates that buildup is compromising its performance.
    • The rubber washer is cracked or worn: A cracked or worn rubber washer can cause leaks and prevent proper sealing and is inexpensive to replace.
    • The screen is torn or damaged: A torn or damaged screen can lead to an uneven water stream and reduced efficiency.

    Maintaining Your Faucet Aerators

    To maintain your faucet’s performance and reduce the frequency of clogs, take these preventive measures:

    • Clean your aerators regularly: Regular cleaning of your aerators every six months helps prevent the buildup of mineral deposits and debris that can cause clogs. 
    • Flush your plumbing system: After completing any plumbing repairs or renovations, flushing the plumbing system helps remove any debris, sediment, or metal shavings that may have entered the pipes. 
    • Install a whole-house water filter: A whole-house water filter can effectively reduce the amount of sediment and debris in your water supply. 
    • Use a water softener: If you have hard water, installing a water softener helps reduce the concentration of dissolved minerals that can cause mineral buildup in your aerators. 

    Beyond regular cleaning and preventive measures, there are additional steps you can take to ensure the longevity and functionality of your aerators:

    • Avoid using harsh chemicals for cleaning, which can damage the aerator components.
    • Inspect and clean faucet screens and spouts, as they can also collect debris.
    • Replace washers and O-rings periodically to prevent leaks.

    Tips for Hard Water Areas

    Aerators can clog more quickly in areas with hard water with a high concentration of dissolved minerals. Regularly cleaning the aerator with a vinegar solution helps dissolve mineral deposits before they cause blockages. Using specialty aerators designed for hard water can also help reduce mineral buildup and extend the aerator’s lifespan.

    Next Up In Plumbing

    Hint: It’s not about keeping your bills smelling fresh! Placing a dryer sheet in your mailbox is a handy way to stay safe and help your mail carrier stay safe. Consider adding one to your mailbox, especially if some pests are trying to make your mailbox their new home.

    by Tom Scalisi
    A mailbox outside of a house, Why Put a Dryer Sheet in Your Mailbox?
    iStock

    You add a dryer sheet to your laundry to help eliminate static cling, but that’s not its intended purpose when putting it in the mailbox. This little trick actually works to help deter bees, wasps, hornets, and other nasty insects, preventing them from building nests and attacking unsuspecting mail carriers or folks retrieving their latest sweepstakes win. The concept is simple and effective, and this guide will explain why placing a dryer sheet in a mailbox makes perfect sense.

    Mailboxes Can Be Great Homes for Pests

    Certain insects would love to set up shop in a mailbox. In that nice, cozy, enclosed space, they’re protected from rain and unbothered by breezes. Mailboxes also frequently have gaps around their seams (particularly older models), which flying and crawling insects can easily access to get in and out without needing to use the door.

    But which pests will move into a mailbox? Some fairly nasty ones, unfortunately: stinging insects like yellow jackets, wasps, and hornets, as well as spiders like black widows and brown recluses (depending on the region). Even ants may call a mailbox home.

    If these insects feel territorial, they may attempt to sting or attack someone as they disturb the mailbox whether opening the door, adding or retrieving mail, or shutting the door again. A bite or a sting may be likely.

    How Can a Dryer Sheet Keep Insects Away?

    The concept is that dryer sheets work because they have strong scents. When it comes to the pest control industry, it’s well-known that some strong, natural odors can chase many types of bugs away. Plants like mint, citronella, and lavender are extremely fragrant, and this makes them a formidable barrier against many insects.

    One of the dryer sheets’ main functions is to make laundry smell fresh, and they often do so by utilizing similar scents as the plants mentioned above. These plants contain a chemical called linalool. Because the ingredient is a natural pest repellent,  many people believe that’s what makes dryer sheets effective in fending off insects. When enclosed in a mailbox, the scent of the dryer sheet intensifies. The hope is that any pests that fly or crawl up to an opening will get a whiff of the strong smell and immediately turn around.

    Do Dryer Sheets in a Mailbox Work?

    Linalool is a proven pest-repelling chemical, and it’s common to find it in the most popular brands of bug sprays. For this reason, any dryer sheet that contains linalool stands a good chance of chasing away spiders and stinging insects. However, not all dryer sheets contain linalool, so shoppers should examine the ingredient list carefully. Bounce dryer sheets do contain linalool, making them a favorite among mail carriers and other folks looking for pest-deterring dryer sheets.

    But keep in mind that “a good chance” does not always guarantee success. There hasn’t been any research that proves the dryer sheets are effective at repelling bugs. 

    When To Place a Dryer Sheet in a Mailbox

    If you notice your mailbox is particularly busy with pest activity, inserting a dryer sheet in the box may be smart before they build a nest and make it their home. In this case, the earlier the better.

    However, if there is already a nest in the mailbox, putting a dryer sheet inside (or placing anything inside, for that matter) is a bad idea. If wasps feel threatened, they may attack with the entire force of their nest.

    It’s better to think of a dryer sheet in the mailbox as a preventative measure rather than a solution to an existing issue. Start adding a dryer sheet to the mailbox in the spring and then stop once the weather cools in the fall.

    How Often to Replace the Dryer Sheet

    There isn’t a hard-and-fast rule about how often to switch up the dryer sheet in the mailbox. However, the sheet will lose its potency over time. Factors like winds, moisture, heat, and other environmental conditions can impact how long a dryer sheet can last, and it might be better to replace one more often than not.

    As a guideline, it’s a good idea to change the dryer sheet after any heat wave or bouts of extreme moisture. Otherwise, change it once every 10 to 14 days to ensure the scent is strong enough to keep any potential stinging or biting tenants from moving in.

    Try a Dryer Sheet and See If Your Mailbox Stays Pest-Free

    While there may not be any hard research on the matter, it may be worth trying this science project on your own. And remember, if you find a dryer sheet in your mailbox, leave it there. Your mail carrier likely noticed something amiss, and they left that sheet behind to protect everyone who uses the mailbox—another reason to appreciate your friendly neighborhood mail carrier!

    Next Up In Pest Control

    This guide will explain everything you need to know about how to get rid of and prevent pink mold in the shower.

    by Tom Scalisi
    Sponge being used to clean water tap
    iStock

    We may be compensated if you purchase through links on our website. Our team is committed to delivering honest, objective, and independent reviews on home products and services.

    More

    Pink mold in the shower can be unsightly and concerning. Fortunately, despite its name, pink mold isn’t actually a mold but a bacterial biofilm. We’ll help you understand what causes this pinkish residue and how to remove it from your shower.

    What Is Pink Mold?

    Pink mold can actually appear in shades of pink, orange, or red. This slimy residue isn’t a true mold but a bacterial colony—Serratia marcescens—a common microorganism that can easily make its way into homes. When it lands on moist surfaces in the bathroom, it colonizes and forms a visible biofilm.

    Pink mold thrives in environments like bathrooms that are:

    • Exposed to soap scum and mineral deposits
    • Poorly ventilated
    • Rich in moisture
    • Warm and humid

    Is Pink Shower Mold Harmful?

    Pink mold is not as dangerous as some mold types, but you should still address it promptly to maintain a hygienic bathroom. It can pose health risks for individuals with compromised immune systems and can also make you sick if it comes in contact with your eyes or an open wound.

    Exposure to pink mold may lead to the following:

    • Eye infections if the bacteria come into contact with the eyes
    • Respiratory issues in some cases
    • Skin irritation for sensitive individuals
    • Urinary tract infections

    Identifying Pink Mold in Your Shower

    Recognizing pink mold is the first step in addressing the problem. Its distinctive color makes it relatively easy to spot, but you need to know where to look and how to distinguish it from other bathroom growths.

    Common Areas of Infestation

    Pink mold typically appears in areas that remain damp for extended periods, like the following:

    • Around drain openings
    • Around showerheads and faucets
    • In grout lines between tiles
    • On shower curtains and liners
    • Shower corners and crevices

    Regularly inspecting these areas can help you catch pink mold growth early.

    How to Distinguish Pink Mold from Other Bathroom Growths

    While pink mold is distinctive, it’s possible to confuse it with other bathroom issues. Use this guide:

    • Hard water stains tend to be white or yellowish.
    • Soap scum is usually white or grayish.
    • True molds are typically green, black, or gray.

    Pink mold’s slimy texture and pinkish hue set it apart from these other common bathroom problems.

    Essential Tools and Products for Pink Mold Removal

    Having the right tools on hand makes removing pink mold much easier and more effective. Here’s what you’ll need to tackle the job safely and thoroughly:

    Note: Be sure to wear gloves, glasses, and a respirator. We also recommend running your bathroom’s exhaust fan during cleaning.

    Effective Removal Techniques for Pink Mold

    The right approach and materials will help you effectively eliminate pink mold and restore your shower’s cleanliness.

    DIY Cleaning Solutions

    Several household items can be effective against pink mold. Try the following:

    • Baking soda paste
    • Bleach solution (use with caution and proper ventilation)
    • Dish soap
    • Hydrogen peroxide
    • White vinegar

    These solutions are often as effective as commercial cleaners and are more budget-friendly.

    Step-by-Step Removal Process

    Follow these steps to tackle pink mold:

    1. Put on protective gear (gloves, mask, and safety glasses).
    2. Mix two tablespoons of dish soap with half a cup of baking soda.
    3. Apply the mixture to affected areas with a nylon bristle brush.
    4. Scrub thoroughly. Alternate scrubbing patterns from back and forth to up and down and circular to make sure the bristles reach any nooks and crannies.
    5. Rinse loosened the biofilm down the drain.
    6. Create a 1:1 solution of bleach and warm water in a spray bottle.
    7. Spray the cleaned areas and let sit for 10 minutes.
    8. Scrub again and rinse thoroughly.
    9. Dry all surfaces with a clean microfiber towel.

    Addressing Pink Mold on Shower Curtains

    We always recommend cleaning your shower curtain when you have pink mold, as bacteria can cling to the curtain and liner and reinfect your shower later:

    1. Remove the curtain and liner from the rod.
    2. Wash fabric curtains in the washing machine with antibacterial detergent according to the curtain’s instructions. (You can also toss in the microfiber towels you used to clean surfaces.)
    3. Dispose of the plastic liner and put in a new one.
    4. Hang curtains on a rack or line to dry completely before rehanging in the shower.

    Removing Pink Mold From Shower Drains

    Shower drains are prime spots for pink mold due to constant moisture and trapped organic matter. Follow these cleaning steps:

    1. Remove any visible debris from the drain opening.
    2. Pour a mixture of baking soda and white vinegar down the drain.
    3. Let it sit for 15 minutes, then flush with hot water.
    4. Use a small brush and your dish soap solution to scrub around the drain opening.

    Cleaning Pink Mold From Grout and Tiles

    Grout lines are porous and can be particularly challenging to clean effectively. Here’s our recommendation:

    1. Make a paste of baking soda and dish soap.
    2. Apply the paste to affected grout lines and let sit for 10 minutes.
    3. Scrub with a stiff brush, then rinse thoroughly.

    Use a bleach solution for stubborn stains. Take care to protect surrounding surfaces when using bleach.

    Professional Cleaning Options

    Consider hiring a professional cleaning service for severe pink mold cases or if you’re uncomfortable handling the cleanup yourself. Make sure to explain the problem to the cleaners in advance. They have specialized equipment and stronger cleaning agents to tackle stubborn pink mold infestations.

    Prevention Strategies To Keep Pink Mold at Bay

    Preventing pink mold is easier than removing it. Implementing some simple habits and routines can significantly reduce the likelihood of pink mold taking hold in your shower.

    Daily Habits To Reduce Moisture

    Follow these tips daily:

    • Dry shower surfaces after each use with a squeegee or microfiber towel.
    • Fully close the shower curtain and liner after every shower so they can dry completely.
    • Run the bathroom exhaust fan during and after showers to remove humid air.

    Weekly Cleaning Routines

    Take these precautions weekly:

    • Clean soap scum from hard surfaces using a solution of one cup of white vinegar to one cup of water with 1 tablespoon of dish soap.
    • Wash shower curtains and bath mats regularly.
    • Scrub grout lines to prevent buildup of soap scum and minerals.

    Long-Term Prevention Methods

    Implement these strategies to help prevent pink mold growth in the long term:

    • Fix any leaky faucets or showerheads promptly.
    • Keep bathroom windows closed while the shower is wet to prevent airborne Serratia marcescens bacteria from entering the bathroom.
    • Install a small dehumidifier in particularly damp bathrooms.
    • Seal grout annually to reduce moisture penetration.

    Our Conclusion

    While not as hazardous as some other household molds, pink mold still requires prompt attention. Clean the affected areas thoroughly and remember that consistency is key to prevention. Regular cleaning, proper ventilation, and moisture control are your best defenses against this persistent bathroom invader.

    Next Up In Cleaning

    Window washing isn’t an easy task—especially if you have multiple floors. Here's how to pressure-wash windows to achieve sparkling results.

    by Mel Childs
    A window being pressure washed.
    istock

    Dirty windows can obstruct your view and detract from your home’s appearance. While cleaning interior windows is straightforward, exterior windows present unique challenges—especially for multi-story homes. Pressure washing is a fast and efficient solution, but it requires careful execution to avoid damage.

    In this guide, we’ll show you how to pressure wash your windows safely and effectively, provide tips on DIY cleaning, and advise you on when to call in professionals.

    Understanding the Risks of Pressure Washing Windows

    Can you use a power washer to clean your windows? Yes, but only when using the correct technique and equipment. While effective, pressure washing has potential risks. The wrong pressure setting and technique can crack glass, loosen window putty, and damage frames.

    Understanding these risks and taking proper precautions to ensure your windows remain intact and functional after cleaning is crucial. The key is to use low pressure and the right nozzle to avoid damaging your windows or surrounding areas.

    Essential Equipment for Pressure Washing Windows

    You’ll need the right equipment to safely and effectively pressure wash your windows. Your toolkit should include a suitable pressure washer, appropriate nozzles, and essential safety gear.

    Choosing the Right Pressure Washer

    Select a pressure washer with adjustable settings—ideally, one that can operate between 1300 and 1700 pounds per square inch (PSI). This PSI range is powerful enough to deliver a deep clean without damaging your windows.

    When choosing a pressure washer, consider the size of your home and the number of windows. If you have a larger home, a more powerful machine with a higher PSI may be necessary, but always use the lowest effective setting on your windows.

    Read More: Best Gas Pressure Washer Picks

    Selecting Appropriate Nozzles and Attachments

    Use a wide-angle nozzle, such as a 40-degree nozzle (white) or a 65-degree nozzle (black). These nozzles distribute water over a broader area, reducing the risk of damage. An extension wand can help you reach higher windows safely from the ground. You can also use a nozzle with a soap dispenser attachment. This feature disperses the cleaning solution evenly.

    Safety Gear You’ll Need

    Wear eye protection, gloves, and closed-toe shoes to protect yourself from debris and potential splashback while working. Wear a mask to keep you from inhaling cleaning chemicals.

    Preparing Your Windows and Surroundings for Pressure Washing

    Before cleaning, inspect all windows for existing damage. Look for cracks in the glass or frame, and seal any gaps with window caulking. If frames appear old or worn, especially wooden ones, consider alternative cleaning methods to avoid potential damage.

    Remove or cover outdoor furniture, decorations, and potted plants in the cleaning area. Use tarps to protect immovable objects, and cover exposed electrical outlets with waterproof tape to prevent water ingress.

    Make sure all windows are tightly closed before cleaning. Add tape where the window meets the sill to prevent water from seeping in. This step is especially important for older windows or those prone to leaks.

    Step-By-Step Guide To Pressure Wash Windows

    Follow these steps to safely and effectively clean your windows using a pressure washer.

    Setting Up Your Pressure Washer

    Fill the pressure washer tank with water and add a suitable cleaning solution. A mixture of water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid can be effective and eco-friendly. Always check the manufacturer’s instructions for compatible cleaning agents. Before starting, check that your pressure washer is on a stable surface and that all hoses are securely connected.

    Applying Cleaning Solution

    Maintain a distance of 3–5 feet from the window and angle the sprayer at about 30 degrees to the glass. Start at the top of each window and work your way down. Apply the cleaning solution lightly and quickly over wooden frames or caulking to avoid damage. Clean one or two windows at a time to prevent the solution from drying and leaving streaks. If you encounter stubborn spots, resist the temptation to move closer to the glass. Instead, make additional passes with the sprayer or use a soft brush to scrub away the dirt gently.

    When applying the solution, use a back-and-forth motion to cover the entire surface evenly. Allow the solution to sit for a few minutes to break down dirt and grime, making it easier to rinse away.

    Rinsing and Drying

    Rinse the windows thoroughly using clean water. You can use a garden hose or the rinse setting on your pressure washer. After rinsing, use a squeegee or microfiber mop to remove excess water and minimize streaking. Allow windows to air dry completely before replacing screens.

    Once the windows are dry, apply a glass cleaner to remove water spots and streaks.

    Best Practices for Pressure Washing Different Window Types

    Different types of windows may require slightly different approaches when pressure washing. Let’s discuss the best methods for each type.

    Double-Pane Windows

    Double-pane windows are more resistant to pressure but still require care. To prevent water infiltration, avoid directing the spray at the seals between panes. Double-pane windows offer better insulation but are susceptible to moisture accumulation between the panes.

    Single-Pane Windows

    Single-pane windows are generally more delicate and require extra care. Use the lowest effective pressure setting and maintain a greater distance from the window surface. Be particularly cautious around the edges where the glass meets the frame.

    If you’re unsure about the pressure setting to use, start with the lowest setting and gradually increase it if necessary. Always err on the side of caution to avoid damaging these delicate windows.

    Storm Windows

    Storm windows often have more robust frames but may have weaker seals. Pay extra attention to the edges and corners, using a gentler spray to avoid dislodging the window from its frame. You may even want to remove and clean these windows individually. Doing this allows for a more thorough cleaning and reduces the risk of dislodging or damaging the window.

    Troubleshooting Common Issues While Pressure Washing

    Even with careful preparation, you may encounter some challenges while pressure washing your windows. Here’s how to handle them.

    Addressing Water Streaks

    To minimize streaking, clean windows on cooler, overcast days when possible. If streaks occur, quickly wipe them away with a squeegee or microfiber cloth before they dry. Using distilled water for the final rinse can also help reduce streaking, as it contains fewer minerals that can leave deposits on the glass.

    Dealing With Stubborn Stains

    For tough stains, avoid increasing pressure. Instead, use a specialized cleaning solution and allow it to sit briefly before rinsing. If necessary, repeat the process rather than risking damage with excessive pressure. A soft-bristle brush may also be useful here.

    If you notice any signs of damage or water infiltration, stop immediately. Reduce pressure or switch to manual cleaning methods for that area to prevent further issues.

    Aftercare and Maintenance for Pressure-Washed Windows

    After pressure washing, inspect your windows for any signs of damage or water intrusion. Clean the windowsills and tracks to prevent mold growth. Consider applying a water-repellent treatment to help maintain cleanliness and protect against future stains.

    When To Call a Professional Window Cleaner

    While pressure washing windows can be a DIY task, there are times when professional help is advisable. If you have a multi-story home, numerous windows, or if you’re uncomfortable working with pressure washers, leave the cleaning to the pros. Also, seek expert assistance if you notice any window damage or if your windows are particularly old or delicate.

    Choosing a Reputable Window Cleaning Service

    When selecting a professional service, look for insured and bonded companies with good references. Check online reviews and ask for detailed quotes. While price is important, don’t make it your sole deciding factor. Consider the company’s experience, services offered, and customer satisfaction ratings.

    Next Up In Windows

    Frogs can be an adorable addition to your yard or garden—or they can be a headache. As a homeowner, you’ll have to decide if you want to keep frogs away or not. Here are some tips on what to do if frogs are hopping around your property.

    by Mel Childs
    Frogs in Your Yard, How To, Remove, Home
    iStock

    You may have looked around your yard recently and noticed it is bustling with life. Bees are pollinating, worms are burrowing, squirrels are scampering, flowers are blooming, and birds are chirping.

    You may have also noticed something hopping about: frogs. But why are frogs in your yard, and what should you do about them? What keeps frogs away from your house? We’ve got answers to all your questions.

    Related

    The Best Firewood to Heat Your Home

    Why Are Frogs Attracted to Your Yard?

    One of the most common reasons you are seeing frogs in your yard is that there is probably a body of water in your neighborhood nearby. If you have a creek, lake, or pond in the surrounding area, frogs may be visiting you after wandering away from these areas. Another reason you may have frogs on your property is if you have a pool. Even if you have a water fountain, bird bath, or other water feature in your yard,  they may also be drawn to that. 

    Frogs could also be enticed by any water that collects on your lawn due to improper drainage. For instance, you may get puddling after it rains if the soil is uneven and doesn’t have proper grading or there is an issue with water not being able to flow completely because of a blockage in or around your gutter. This dampness makes it ripe for frogs to thrive in your yard.

    Unlike some creatures lurking in your yard, frogs may not be your enemies. They aren’t generally destructive. However, they can be a nuisance if there are many hopping or if their croaking is keeping you up at night. The good news is that frogs are great to have around if you have a garden and want some natural pest control in it. Since frogs eat plenty of bugs, this will minimize your need to use chemicals.

    Besides water and moisture, frogs could be attracted to your yard if you have a garden that attracts the bugs they enjoy eating. If you have fruit flies, grasshoppers, crickets, worms, caterpillars, snails, or spiders in your yard, you may also have some hungry frogs ready to eat them. 

    What are the Disadvantages of Having Frogs in Your Yard?

    Frogs may be toxic. If you have pets or small children, keeping frogs away from your house may be a good idea. While they may seem harmless, there are some native species of frogs, such as the pickerel frog and the American toad, that could make your pets sick if they lick, pick up, or ingest them and may cause irritation for humans as well. And any frog can potentially carry bacteria, so if your child happens to touch one and doesn’t wash their hands, they could get infected with salmonella or another pathogen. To be safe, it may be wise to eliminate frogs and the things that attract them to your yard in the first place. 

    Frogs attract snakes. Snakes like to prey on frogs. So, if you don’t want to have a run-in with a snake in your garden or yard, eliminating your frog problem will get rid of snakes. 

    Some frogs are invasive species. Non-native frogs and toads can have a detrimental effect on the ecosystem because they’ll be competing with other natural species for resources. Certain areas of the country are experiencing more issues than others, namely California with the American bullfrog and Florida with Cuban tree frogs and cane toads.

    Frogs can be loud. If you’ve got a whole crew residing on your property, prepare to hear a chorus of croaking all night.

    Are There DIY Ways to Get Rid of Frogs?

    If you don’t want frogs, you may be wondering what keeps frogs away. Here are a few ways to keep frogs away from your house. 

    • Spray vinegar in the area that they frequent. The vinegar will sting their feet and drive them away. 
    • Eliminate water sources in your yard to force them to look for water elsewhere. 
    • Use a natural snake repellent that deters reptiles since snakes and frogs don’t like it.  
    • Trim your grass regularly to make it harder for frogs to hide.  
    • Minimize the use of outdoor lighting, which attracts mosquitos, flies, and crickets. Lessening the amount of insects will reduce the food resources for frogs.,
    • Exterminating the insects on your property is another way to limit frog’s food sources.
    • Install fine-mesh fencing to keep them from hopping into your yard (only after you’ve already gotten rid of them).

    How Can You Get Professional Help for Getting Rid of Frogs? 

    If you are terrified of frogs, don’t want to attempt eliminating them yourself, or can’t stand the thought of doing something inhumane to them, seek out the help of a professional. One of the best ways to get rid of frogs without harming them is to call on a top rated pest control company specializing in wildlife control. Such professionals usually capture frogs and place them elsewhere instead of harming them. 

    There should be local wildlife specialists who know how to get frogs out of your yard and redistribute them elsewhere in the wild. They will also be able to provide you with tips on how to keep these creatures from getting back into your yard. 

    You can find such specialists through animal services in your city or county. A wildlife rehabilitator may also be able to help. Additionally, you can look for local pest control professionals who perform wildlife removal or specialize solely in wildlife removal. Pest control pros can also help you find out how animals are getting into your home in general.

    Is killing frogs against the law?

    In some states, it is against the law to kill frogs. Endangered frogs, like the California Red-Legged Frog, should not be exterminated. However, some frogs, like the American Bullfrog, are considered invasive and may not be protected by law from extermination.

    To determine the rules about frogs in your state, it’s a good idea to consult local laws. Again, hiring wildlife control specialists are the best defense against a frog invasion because they will know humane ways to eliminate them from your yard.

    Next Up In Pest Control

    Give your old tiles new life by reglazing them.

    by Tom Scalisi
    A home bathroom with freshly glazed tiles
    iStock

    We may be compensated if you purchase through links on our website. Our team is committed to delivering honest, objective, and independent reviews on home products and services.

    More

    Project details

    Skill

    2 out of 5Easy to Moderate

    Cost

    Roughly $50–$80 per 100 square feet (depending on the product)

    Estimated Label

    3–4 days (one day of working time)

    Reglazing bathroom tile is a cost-effective way to refresh your space without the hassle of a full renovation. This do-it-yourself-friendly process can transform outdated or worn tiles and give your bathroom an updated look. 

    We’ll walk through the steps of reglazing bathroom tile, from preparation to maintenance, to help you achieve professional-looking results.

    Related

    The Best Firewood to Heat Your Home

    What Is Tile Reglazing?

    Tile reglazing involves applying a new finish to existing tiles rather than restoring the original glaze. Instead, the old surface is covered with a durable coating (typically epoxy-based) that adheres to the existing tile. It’s an excellent option when your tiles are structurally sound but visually outdated or worn. 

    Reglazing your bathroom tiles offers several advantages over replacement:

    • Cost-effective: Reglazing is significantly less expensive than replacement.
    • Customizable: Choose from a wide range of colors to match your bathroom.
    • Eco-friendly: Reglazing reduces waste by reusing existing materials.
    • Less messy: Avoid the dust and debris associated with tile removal.
    • Time-saving: Takes only a few days, compared to weeks for a total renovation.

    However, if any tiles are missing or seriously damaged, you may need to replace them instead.

    Essential Materials and Tools for Reglazing Bathroom Tile

    Here’s what you’ll need to get started on your tile reglazing project:

    • Box fan
    • Drop cloths or plastic sheeting
    • Empty buckets
    • Microfiber cloths
    • Orbital sander
    • Paint roller and tray
    • Paintbrush
    • Painter’s tape
    • Pencil
    • Putty knife or scraper
    • Respirator
    • Safety equipment (goggles, gloves, respirator)
    • Sandpaper (400 and 600 grit)
    • Tile cleaning solution
    • Tile reglazing kit (including primer and epoxy)
    • Wet/dry vacuum
    Tools & Materials

    Safety Tips for Reglazing Tile

    Stay safe when working with epoxy and other chemicals. Wear gloves and protective clothing to prevent skin contact, and keep a first aid kit handy for minor accidents.

    Setting Up Proper Ventilation

    Reglazing products contain volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that can be harmful if inhaled. Set up proper ventilation by opening windows and putting a box fan in the window to blow fumes outside. We also recommend wearing a respirator.

    Handling Chemical Spills

    If spills occur, clean them promptly using appropriate methods and protective gear. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for disposal and cleanup of epoxy products to stay safe and comply with environmental guidelines.

    Step-by-Step Guide To Reglaze Bathroom Tile

    Here are our steps for a successful tile reglazing. Be sure to read all the manufacturer’s instructions before starting. If they suggest a specific temperature and humidity range, follow the guidelines to help the finished product look its best.

    Cleaning and Repairing Existing Tiles

    Thoroughly clean the tiles. Using a putty knife or scraper, remove any gunk, buildup, or debris. For stubborn residue, use a tile-cleaning solution. Rinse thoroughly to remove any cleaning solution residue.

    Inspect the tiles for any damage. Reglazing can hide minor imperfections, but you’ll want to repair major cracks or chips before proceeding.

    Protecting Surrounding Areas

    Use painter’s tape to protect areas you don’t want to reglaze, such as fixtures, trim, and adjacent surfaces. Lay down drop cloths or plastic sheeting to protect your floor and fixtures.

    Sanding the Tile Surface

    Sand the tile surface to help the primer adhere better:

    1. Attach 400-grit sandpaper to your orbital sander.
    2. Sand the entire tile surface to remove the glossy finish.
    3. Vacuum the dust and wipe the surface clean with a damp microfiber cloth.
    4. Repeat the process with 600-grit sandpaper for a smoother finish.
    5. Rinse the surface with clean water and let it dry completely.

    Applying Primer

    Now it’s time to apply the primer:

    1. Pour the primer into a paint tray.
    2. Use a paintbrush to cut in around edges and grout lines.
    3. Roll the primer onto the wider tile areas, taking your time for even coverage.
    4. Allow the primer to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions, typically two to four hours.

    Mixing and Applying the Reglazing Epoxy

    Once the primer is dry, it’s time to apply the epoxy. These chemicals typically have very strong fumes, so put on your respirator if you’re not already wearing it.

    Steps for mixing and applying the epoxy include:

    1. Mix the epoxy components in a clean bucket according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
    2. Pour the mixed epoxy into a paint tray.
    3. Use a paintbrush to cut in along edges and grout lines.
    4. Roll the epoxy onto the tile surface, maintaining a wet edge to avoid lap marks.
    5. Work quickly, as most epoxies have a limited working time of about six hours.
    6. Apply a thin, even coat and avoid overloading the roller or brush.

    Adding the Final Coat

    Two coats of reglazing epoxy should be enough. Keep track of time and apply the second coat exactly when the manufacturer states. If you wait too long, the coat will cure, and you’ll have to start sanding all over again. If you apply it too soon, the epoxy will run and pool.

    1. Allow the first coat to dry for 45 minutes to an hour or as directed by the manufacturer.
    2. Apply a second coat of epoxy using the same technique as the first.
    3. Maintain even coverage and watch for drips or pooling in grout lines.
    4. If needed, lightly sand the surface between coats for smoother results.

    Curing and Maintenance

    Proper curing and maintenance help your reglazed tiles last longer. Follow these guidelines to protect your newly refreshed bathroom.

    Proper Curing Time

    Allow the reglazed surface to cure fully before using the bathroom. This process typically takes three to four days—we recommend following the manufacturer’s recommendations for best results. Keep the area well-ventilated and avoid using the bathroom, as high humidity levels will prevent the reglazing epoxy from curing.

    Cleaning and Maintaining Reglazed Tiles

    Once the epoxy is completely dry, clean the entire surface with a tile-cleaning solution and a microfiber cloth.

    Maintaining Grout Lines

    The reglazing process coats grout lines, but they may still require occasional touch-ups. Use a grout pen or resealer as needed to maintain your grout’s fresh look.

    Common Mistakes To Avoid When Reglazing Bathroom Tile

    Avoid these common mistakes when reglazing your bathroom tiles:

    • Applying epoxy too thick or too thin: This can result in an uneven or brittle finish.
    • Inadequate surface preparation: Failing to clean and sand tiles thoroughly can lead to poor adhesion.
    • Neglecting to protect surrounding areas: Spills and drips can ruin fixtures and flooring.
    • Poor ventilation: Inhaling fumes from the epoxy can be dangerous, and inadequate ventilation will slow the curing process.
    • Rushing the process: Skipping steps or not adhering to recommended cure times can negatively affect the results.

    Professional vs. DIY Reglazing

    While you technically can reglaze your bathroom tile with supplies from the hardware store, consider your skills and available time before starting. Doing it yourself gives you complete creative control and is typically more affordable than hiring a professional. However, professionals are less likely to make mistakes and typically work much faster.

    We recommend calling a professional if any of the following apply:

    • The project involves a large area or complex tile patterns.
    • You don’t have the time to do a thorough job yourself.
    • You’re not confident in your do-it-yourself (DIY) skills.
    • Your tiles require significant repairs before reglazing.

    Cost Considerations For Tile Reglazing

    A tile reglazing kit typically costs $30–$50 at hardware stores. Hiring a professional costs between $4–$10 per square foot, according to HomeAdvisor.

    Be aware of the cost of making DIY mistakes: according to Angi, it costs between $10–$50 to retile a bathroom.

    Next Up In Bathrooms

    Dealing with a nasty, returning puddle in a yard can be a real problem for some homeowners. And, no matter what they do, they can’t seem to get ahead of the problem. This guide will highlight some of the most common challenges that arise when dealing with a wet lawn, as well as some potential solutions they can try to dry up their lawn.

    by Tom Scalisi
    Drainage Solutions for Your Yard, Water Barrel, Garden
    Rain barrel in the garden | iStock

    It doesn’t matter how beautiful a yard is if there are soggy, wet areas that make it feel unusable. Trekking through the muddy spot will inevitably lead to dirty shoes and socks, and the pests that breed in standing soil will soon swarm in large populations if left unchecked. Despite best efforts, stopping water from pooling in a low spot in the yard can be extremely difficult. You need better drainage—STAT.

    Luckily, this guide will highlight some of the most common drainage solutions available to help homeowners dry out their yards and get back to enjoying their outside spaces.

    Related

    How to Install a French Drain

    1. Aerate the Soil

    Soil gets hard, compacted, and tightens up the more we walk on it, the longer snow sits on top of it every winter, and the more stress a lawn sees. And when a powerful rainstorm comes along under these conditions, the water won’t be able to penetrate the soil, so instead it will pool or wash off into a section of the yard. Aeration can solve this.

    Yard aeration is the activity of poking holes into the soil. This does a few things: One, it creates pathways that water and nutrients can take to get to the roots of the grass, promoting a better lawn. It also breaks up soil that’s too compacted to simply drain. There are a number of things you can use to poke the holes including a garden fork, aerator shoes, or a spike aerator.

    2. Grade the Yard

    If a yard isn’t pitched properly, it can become a huge issue. Ideally, the yard should slope away from the home, and if it doesn’t, it will cause a funnel-like effect, pushing the water back into the home rather than draining it away.

    Generally speaking, grading a yard involves adding a few inches of clay-type soil and grading it away from the home to promote better drainage.

    3. Dig a French Drain

    Sometimes the water that’s causing the issues is coming from a neighboring property or even a poorly pitched street or driveway. In these cases, installing a French drain that prevents the water from flowing into your yard will help keep it dry.

    Be prepared: French drains can be a hassle to install. They involve digging a trench, installing a series of perforated pipes, pitching them, and then covering them with a material that drains well, like gravel or crushed stone.

    4. Extend Downspouts

    Gutters are designed to control the flow of rainwater from the roof to protect your house’s foundation. However, if the gutters don’t’ shuttle the water far enough away from the home, they could be causing drainage issues.

    The easiest way to handle this problem is to install gutter downspout extensions. Flexible and extendable, these accordion-type pipes attach directly to your existing downspouts. Homeowners can then divert the water toward other parts of the lawn that drain a bit better.

    5. Use Rain Barrels

    Another option for controlling the flow from the gutter system is to collect excess water with rain barrels. These basins can be made from real wood or even plastic, and they can be installed at the end of the downspout. Then, every time it rains, the barrel will capture the water rather than letting it pool on the yard’s surface. This also gives homeowners a renewable water source for watering flowers and vegetable gardens.

    6. Shift Away from Hardscape Materials

    Your hardscape may be contributing to your “wet yard” problem. Bricks and concrete can be great to look at and walk on when installed correctly, but these materials don’t drain. They simply shed water off into the lawn, allowing it to collect on the yard’s surface. Low spots or pockets in the bricks or blocks can hold water themselves, leading to mildew or even pest breeding.

    Instead of hardscape materials, you may want to consider switching to materials that drain, such as gravel, pebbles, and other loose materials that allow for comfortable walking while preventing puddles from occurring.

    7. Install a Catch Basin

    As the gutters collect the rainwater from a roof, it channels down the downspouts and dumps directly out onto the ground. Hopefully, the ground can absorb the water. If not, you’re going to have a soggy yard on your hands. Installing a catch basin below the downspout can be the answer.

    How a catch basin works: It’s basically a drum in the ground with pipes attached that allow the water to drain out into the soil, a drain emitter, or to a street drain. These pipes will continue to work regardless of soil compaction or ground saturation.

    8. Install a Yard Drain

    Yard drains are essentially just floor drains for your yard. These drains can be installed wherever water frequently gathers, collecting the water and redirecting it into any area of the yard that drains well, or a dry well.

    Installing a yard drain does require some excavation to accommodate the drain itself and its pipes. Once all the excavated dirt has been backfilled and the grass grows back, only a small drain grid will be visible, making it a great choice for well-maintained lawns with recurring wet spots.

    9. Create a Rain Garden

    Instead of trying to fight the water, consider using it to your advantage: Building a beautiful rain garden. Rain gardens are simply gardens full of water-loving plants. These plants will appreciate the extra water and grow into an attractive section of the yard rather than just a soggy eyesore no one can walk on. Research your area’s garden zone for species that will tolerate wet conditions, such as native sedges and lady ferns.

    10. Dig a Dry well

    A dry well can be a great option for capturing and holding water while it drains into the soil. Dry wells are really just barrels dug into the ground and then filled with stones. The stones promote drainage, allowing the water to escape into the soil around the dry well.

    Dry wells can be tied into gutter systems, French drains, and other drainage systems. They can also utilize pop-up drain emitters to allow overflowing water to escape during storms, flooding, and other high-water situations.

    You Can Transform Your Wet Lawn

    In most cases, handling a lawn that refuses to drain is a DIY project. With a little bit of knowledge and the above tips, you’ll be able to reduce the amount of standing water, mud, and even pests that plague your property.

    Next Up In Lawns

    Learn tried and true tips to dramatically improve curb appeal so you can confidently sell your home.

    by Mel Childs
    Beautiful Luxury Home Exterior with Green Grass and Landscaped yard
    iStock

    When buying a house, people judge a book by its cover. In other words, the way the exterior of your home looks will determine if potential buyers even want to take a tour. If the landscape is well-kept, the exterior looks freshly cleaned or painted, and the upkeep is great overall, buyers will eagerly want to see what you offer inside.

    This article explores the best curb appeal ideas to help you sell your home faster and potentially for a higher price. We’ll cover strategies that fit various budgets and timeframes, from quick fixes to significant improvements.

    Why Does Curb Appeal Matters in Real Estate?

    Curb appeal is more than just making your home look pretty—it’s a powerful marketing tool in real estate. When potential buyers drive by or arrive for a showing, the exterior of your home sets the tone for their entire experience. A welcoming and well-maintained exterior suggests that the inside is equally cared for, which can significantly influence a buyer’s decision. A study from the Journal of Real Estate Finance and Economics found that good curb appeal can increase a property’s price by up to 7%.

    How Can You Assess Your Home’s Current Curb Appeal?

    Before making improvements, start by objectively evaluating your home’s current curb appeal. This assessment will help you identify areas that need attention and prioritize your efforts and investment.

    Conducting a Visual Inspection

    Start by walking across the street and looking at your home with fresh eyes. Take note of any areas that appear worn, dated, or need repair. Pay attention to the following:

    • The condition of your lawn and landscaping
    • The state of your home’s exterior paint or siding
    • The appearance of your front door, porch, and entryway
    • The condition of your driveway and walkways
    • The visibility and style of your house numbers and mailbox

    Getting Feedback from Others

    Sometimes, it’s difficult to see our own home objectively. Ask friends, neighbors, or your real estate agent for honest opinions. They might notice things you’ve overlooked or provide valuable insights from a buyer’s perspective.

    What Are Some Quick and Easy Ways To Boost Curb Appeal?

    Some of the most effective curb appeal improvements are also the quickest and easiest to implement. These small changes can significantly affect how your home is perceived.

    Refreshing Your Front Door

    Your front door is a focal point of your home’s exterior. A fresh coat of paint can instantly brighten your entryway and create a welcoming atmosphere. Popular colors that make your door stand out include red, black, navy, and yellow. Add a new welcome mat, and flank the door with potted plants for added charm. You can go one step further and replace your front door altogether.

    Upgrading House Numbers and Mailbox

    New house numbers and a fresh mailbox are small details that can impact your home’s overall appearance. Choose numbers easily read from the street and complement your home’s style. A few coats of paint can give it new life if your mailbox is in good condition but looks weathered.

    Adding Colorful Plants and Flowers

    Introducing pops of color with plants and flowers is an easy way to enhance your home’s curb appeal. Add window boxes, hanging baskets, or container gardens near your entryway. Choose plants that are appropriate for your climate and require minimal maintenance.

    Sprucing Up Your Walkways

    Walkways are often overlooked but can significantly impact curb appeal. Clean and repair any cracks in your walkways, and consider adding a border of plants or decorative stones for extra charm. Paver stones can also be an attractive and durable option to upgrade your paths.

    Incorporating Seasonal Decor

    Seasonal decorations add a festive touch to your home’s exterior. A themed wreath, seasonal doormat, and porch decorations can make your home feel welcoming all year round. However, remember that less is more. You don’t want to overwhelm potential buyers with too much decor.

    What Are the Best Ways To Maintain Your Home’s Exterior?

    Regular maintenance helps to keep your home’s exterior looking its best throughout the sale.

    pressure washer, home, pavement
    iStock

    Regular Cleaning and Pressure Washing

    Dirt, grime, and mildew can accumulate on your home’s exterior over time, making it look dull and neglected. Regular cleaning and pressure washing keep your siding, driveway, and walkways fresh and well-maintained.

    Addressing Minor Repairs Promptly

    Small issues such as loose gutters, peeling paint, or cracked walkways can give the impression that your home hasn’t been well cared for. Address these minor repairs promptly to maintain a polished appearance.

    Keeping Up With Seasonal Maintenance

    Different seasons bring different maintenance needs. In spring, focus on cleaning up winter debris and planting new flowers. Summer might require more frequent lawn mowing and watering. Fall calls for leaf removal, while winter may involve snow and ice management.

    Inspecting the Roof and Gutters

    Roofs and gutters protect your home from weather damage. Inspect them regularly for any signs of wear or blockage. Cleaning gutters and replacing damaged shingles or flashing can prevent more significant issues.

    Cleaning Windows

    Regularly clean your windows, both inside and out, to let in more natural light and enhance the overall appearance of your home. Clean, streak-free windows suggest that the house is well-maintained.

    What Landscaping Strategies Can Help Impress Buyers?

    gardens, neighborhood, front of home
    iStock

    A well-maintained landscape is one of the biggest secrets to boost curb appeal. It shows potential buyers that the property has been cared for and creates an inviting atmosphere.

    Creating a Lush, Well-Manicured Lawn

    A healthy, green lawn is a key component of attractive landscaping. Make sure your grass is regularly mowed, edged neatly, and weed-free. If there are bare patches, reseed or lay sod to create a lush, uniform appearance.

    Designing Eye-Catching Garden Beds

    Well-designed garden beds can add color, texture, and interest to your landscape. Choose a mix of perennials and annuals for year-round appeal. Mulch gives your beds a neat, finished look and helps retain moisture. Even a low-lift container garden can seriously brighten things up.

    Incorporating Hardscaping Elements

    Hardscaping features such as stone pathways, retaining walls, or a decorative fence can add structure and visual interest to your landscape. These elements can also help define spaces and create a sense of order in your yard.

    Adding Water Features

    Water features such as fountains or small ponds can create a sense of tranquility and add a unique element to your yard. These features can be eye-catching and provide a gentle, soothing sound that enhances the overall ambience of your property.

    Using Native Plants

    Incorporate native plants into your landscaping to provide a thriving, low-maintenance garden. Native plants are adapted to your local climate and soil, requiring less water and care. They also support local wildlife, adding ecological value to your property.

    Major Exterior Improvements for Maximum Impact

    While minor changes can make a difference, more significant improvements are sometimes necessary to transform a home’s exterior.

    Repainting or Residing Your Home

    A fresh coat of paint or new siding can dramatically improve your home’s appearance. If your current paint is fading or peeling or your siding is damaged, this upgrade can be well worth the investment. Choose colors that complement your home’s architecture and appeal to many buyers.

    Upgrading Windows and Shutters

    Old or damaged windows detract from your home’s appearance and energy efficiency. Replacing them with modern, energy-efficient models can improve not only appearance but new buyers’ electricity bill. Adding or updating shutters can enhance your home’s character and curb appeal.

    Enhancing Outdoor Lighting

    Good lighting increases safety and security. Consider adding pathway lights to illuminate walkways and landscape lighting to highlight architectural features or beautiful landscaping. Solar lights can be an energy-efficient and cost-effective option for outdoor illumination.

    Building or Refinishing a Deck

    If you already have a deck, consider refinishing it to remove any signs of wear and add a fresh coat of stain or paint. If not, building a new deck can be a worthwhile investment for your property’s value and appeal.

    Installing a New Roof

    A new roof can be a major selling point for buyers. If your roof is old or looks worn, replacing it could significantly boost your home’s look and market value. Choose durable materials and a style that matches your home’s architecture.

    Replacing the Garage Door

    The garage door has a bigger influence on curb appeal than you may realize. A damaged or unattractive one can deter potential buyers. Apply a fresh coat of paint in neutral tones such as white, black, beige, or brown. Adding decorative hardware can elevate a plain door’s appearance, creating a more polished look. If your garage door isn’t opening or closing properly, repair it or invest in a new one.

    Budget-Friendly Ideas To Increase Curb Appeal

    Improving your home’s curb appeal doesn’t have to cost a fortune. There are many cost-effective ways to enhance your home’s exterior.

    Low-Cost, High-Impact Improvements

    Some inexpensive improvements that can make a significant difference include the following:

    • Adding a layer of fresh mulch to garden beds
    • Installing solar-powered landscape lighting
    • Power washing your driveway and walkways
    • Trimming overgrown bushes and trees
    • Painting or staining your fences

    Upcycling and Repurposing

    Get creative with upcycling and repurposing materials. For instance, you can transform old pallets into a charming garden bench or use vintage containers as unique plant pots. These projects can add personality to your yard without costing much money.

    Shopping Second-Hand

    Look for second-hand or gently used items at thrift stores, yard sales, or online marketplaces. You might find planters, outdoor furniture, garden tools, and other items that can enhance your curb appeal without a significant investment.

    What Are Some Common Curb Appeal Mistakes?

    While enhancing your home’s curb appeal, avoid these common pitfalls that could deter potential buyers.

    Overdoing Personalization

    If you want your home to stand out, avoid overly personalized or eccentric design choices. Stick to neutral, broadly appealing styles that allow buyers to envision themselves living in the house.

    Neglecting Hidden Areas

    Maintain side yards, the back of the house, and the roof, as potential buyers might see them during a showing or inspection.

    Ignoring Local Trends

    Pay attention to what is popular in your local market. Certain features may be more appealing depending on your region. For instance, drought-tolerant landscaping is excellent in dry climates, while lush gardens might be more valued in wetter areas. Make sure your curb appeal strategies align with local trends and expectations.

    Next Up In Curb Appeal

    Carpenter Nathan Gilbert’s Christmas tree farm suffered some damage from a fallen red oak. Rather than get rid of it, he’s going to turn it into usable slabs of wood for his projects. Find out how.

    by Nathan Gilbert

    When a tree falls on your property, it can cause damage and leave you with a mess to clean up. For carpenters and DIY enthusiasts, however, a fallen tree can also present an opportunity to create something beautiful and functional. In this article, we’ll explore how to clear a fallen tree using a portable sawmill, turning potential waste into valuable lumber for future projects. This Old House carpenter, Nathan Gilbert, demonstrates the process of milling a fallen red oak tree into usable slabs for a bar top in the video above.

    Assessing the Fallen Tree

    Before beginning the milling process, evaluate the fallen tree and prepare the area for work. Understanding the tree’s condition will ensure the safe and efficient use of the portable sawmill.

    Clearing the Area

    Start by removing any limbs and brush around the fallen tree. This will help you achieve stable footing and a safe working environment. Use a chainsaw to cut large branches into firewood and chip smaller brush.

    Evaluating the Tree’s Potential

    Examine the fallen tree to assess its suitability for milling. Factors that influence this decision include the species of the tree, the overall condition of the wood, the presence of any rot or insect damage, and the straightness of the trunk. Hardwoods, like oak, are particularly valuable and ideal for creating furniture or other projects.

    Safety Considerations

    Working with fallen trees and heavy machinery demands adherence to proper safety precautions. Always wear eye protection, ear protection, work gloves, steel-toed boots, and a hard hat with a face shield. Avoid loose clothing that could become entangled in machinery.

    Preparing the Tree for Milling

    Once you’ve assessed the tree and cleared the area, prepare the logs for milling with a chainsaw. Efficient preparation will facilitate a smoother milling process.

    Cutting the Tree into Manageable Sections

    Use a chainsaw to cut the tree into usable logs. The length of these logs will depend on your portable sawmill’s capacity. When cutting, always stand uphill from the log, make clean, straight cuts, and leave extra length for trimming later. Cutting the logs properly will minimize waste and increase the quality of the final product.

    Positioning the Logs

    After cutting, move the logs to a flat, accessible area near where you’ll set up the portable sawmill. Use a tractor or other heavy equipment to move large logs safely.

    Setting Up the Portable Sawmill

    A portable sawmill is a versatile tool that allows you to mill lumber on-site. Gilbert worked with his friend, who owns and operates a portable bandsaw mill, showcasing the effectiveness of teamwork in handling large projects.

    Leveling the Mill

    Proper leveling is the key to achieving accurate cuts. Use the built-in jacks on the sawmill to adjust its height, check for level in multiple directions, and make fine adjustments as needed.

    Understanding the Components

    Familiarize yourself with the key parts of the sawmill, including the blade and blade guides, throttle and control panel, the water system for lubricating the blade, and log dogs (clamps) for securing the log. Understanding these components will enhance your operational efficiency and control.

    Safety Features

    Before operating, make sure all safety guards are in place and functioning correctly. Safety features will protect you and maintain the integrity of the machine.

    Milling the Logs

    With the sawmill set up and the logs ready, it’s time to start milling. Milling facilitates the conversion of raw logs into usable slabs or dimensional lumber, which are suitable for a variety of projects.

    Making the First Cut

    The first cut is crucial as it establishes a flat surface for subsequent cuts. Position the log on the mill, secure it with the log dogs, adjust the blade height to skim the top of the log, and make a slow, steady pass to create a flat surface. This step sets the stage for precise and uniform slabs.

    Cutting Slabs

    Once a flat surface is established, begin cutting slabs. Lower the blade to your desired thickness—typically 2–4 inches for bar tops—make steady passes, allowing the blade to do the work, and use the water system to keep the blade cool and clear of sawdust.

    Handling the Slabs

    As slabs are cut, manage them effectively. Have a helper assist in removing the slabs from the mill, stack the slabs with stickers (small pieces of wood) between each layer to allow air circulation, and place stickers at both ends and in the middle of each slab. Proper handling and storage prevent damage and promote even drying.

    Drying the Wood from the Sawmill

    Proper drying prevents warping and cracking in newly milled lumber. Well-dried wood is more stable and suitable for crafting fine furniture or other projects.

    For air drying, stack the slabs in a covered, well-ventilated area. Allow one year of drying time per inch of thickness and regularly check for signs of warping or cracking. Air drying is cost-effective and environmentally friendly, although it requires patience.

    If the wood is needed sooner, consider kiln drying. This method speeds up the drying process significantly and provides more consistent results, but it may cost more than air drying. It’s an option that balances time efficiency with financial investment, offering ready-to-use lumber quickly.

    Maintaining Your Portable Sawmill

    To keep your portable sawmill in top condition, perform regular maintenance. Maintaining machinery not only prolongs its lifespan but also ensures reliable performance for future projects. Here are a few things you can do:

    • Clean the blade and mill after each use.
    • Sharpen or replace blades as needed.
    • Lubricate moving parts regularly.
    • Store the mill in a dry, covered area when not in use.

    With the right equipment and techniques, you can turn a fallen tree into a treasure trove of beautiful, usable wood, breathing new life into what might otherwise be a forgotten remnant.

    Next Up In Landscaping

    This Old House DIY expert Jenn Largesse shows us how to build a long-lasting outdoor sofa from 2-by-4 boards.

    by Jenn Largesse, This Old House DIY Expert & Editor, House One
    This video walks through how to construct an outdoor sofa

    Project details

    Skill

    1 out of 5Easy

    Cost

    About $165 (not including stain and polyurethane)

    Estimated Label

    About 4 Hours
    Jenn measures seat cushions for an outdoor sofa.
    Size the seat: To design the sofa, Largesse measures across three bottom cushions, using their exact dimensions to determine the base assembly’s depth and width. | Mock Tuna

    We may be compensated if you purchase through links on our website. Our team is committed to delivering honest, objective, and independent reviews on home products and services.

    More

    All-weather outdoor furniture and accessories can cost a pretty penny, especially if you’re shopping during the peak spring or summer seasons. Enter this clean-lined outdoor sofa, which This Old House DIY expert Jenn Largesse made from inexpensive 2-by-4 boards using only a few basic tools. After you cut the lumber to size, pocket-hole joinery makes assembly quick and easy. For the cost of a few cushions and with a few hours of work in the shop, you can have this comfortable couch for a fraction of what you’d pay in most stores.

    Once you assemble and stain your outdoor sofa and protect it with exterior polyurethane or paint, this sturdy piece of furniture will help you entertain friends and family for many summers to come.

    Materials and Tools Needed to Build an Outdoor Sofa

    Tools & Materials

    Before you start building, you’ll need to gather the following materials and tools:

    Tools

    • 4-inch paint roller
    • Drill/driver
    • Driver bits
    • Miter saw
    • Paintbrush
    • Pocket hole jig
    • Random orbital sander
    • Tape measure

    Preparing the Wood for an Outdoor Sofa

    Properly preparing your lumber as follows will help create a professional-looking finish and improve your outdoor sofa’s longevity.

    Selecting the Lumber

    When choosing your 2-by-4 boards, look for straight pieces with minimal knots. While dimensional lumber is cost-effective, it often comes with rounded edges and grading stamps. Be prepared to spend some time sanding to achieve a stain-grade finish.

    Cutting the Boards

    Use a miter saw to cut your lumber pieces to the lengths specified in the cut list below. Use a stopblock when making repetitive cuts to ensure accuracy and efficiency.

    • Armrests: Two pieces at 23 1/2 inches
    • Back legs: Two pieces at 30 inches
    • Backrest boards: Two pieces at 68 inches
    • Front legs: Two pieces at 28 1/2 inches
    • Seat frame: Two pieces at 68 inches
    • Seat slats: 11 pieces at 22 inches
    • Side crosspieces: Six pieces at 22 inches

    Sanding and Smoothing

    Sand all the cut pieces thoroughly, starting with coarse-grit sandpaper and progressing to finer grits. Pay special attention to the edges and ends of the boards. This will help you achieve a smooth, splinter-free surface that will be comfortable to touch and easy to stain.

    Building an Outdoor Sofa: Before You Begin

    Labeled illustration of an outdoor couch
    Peter Sucheski

    For this project, Largesse manually selected the best-looking 2-by-4-by-8-foot boards—sold as “studs”—from her local home center. Using dimensional lumber is the most affordable option but these boards come with rounded edges and grading stamps, so you’ll need to sand them to transform them into stain-grade stock. If you have access to a workshop, you can run the boards through a thickness planer or use a table saw to remove the rounded edges. You can substitute a naturally weather-resistant wood, such as cedar or cypress, but this would double the cost of the wood used in this project.

    Steps for Building an Outdoor Sofa

    A person constructing an outdoor sofa
    Mock Tuna

    Once you have selected and prepared your lumber, follow our step-by-step guide below to build your outdoor sofa.

    1. Cut and Organize the Parts

    Following the cut list and cutting diagram above, cut the boards to length. (Tip: Use a stopblock for making repetitive cuts to save time and improve accuracy.) To facilitate assembly, arrange the parts in four stacks: two sides, base, and back.

    2. Drill the Pocket Holes

    After identifying the best, or “show,” face of each board, use a pocket hole jig to drill holes in the back and inside faces where shown in the above illustration.

    A woman using a drill to build an outdoor sofa
    Mock Tuna

    3. Assemble the Side Frames

    1. With its pocket holes facing inward, position the face of one side’s front leg flush with an armrest’s front end.
    2. Apply glue and then drive 2 1/2-inch pocket-hole screws through the leg and into the underside of the armrest.
    3. Next, attach the armrest’s face flush to the end of the back leg.
    4. Repeat with the opposite side.

    4. Add the Crosspieces

    1. Place the side frames on your workbench, outside faces down.
    2. Next, set the crosspieces on 2-by-4 blocks between the legs with their pocket holes facing upward.
    3. Attach the crosspieces to the legs where shown above.
    A woman constructing an outdoor sofa
    Mock Tuna

    5. Assemble the Seat

    1. Position the two seat rails on a work surface with their pocket holes facing in the same direction.
    2. Arrange the slats between the rails about 3 1/2 inches apart with their pocket holes facing upward.
    3. Glue and screw the interior slats to the rails, but leave the two end slats loose for now.

    6. Attach the Seat to the Sides

    1. Stand the seat and one side on their back edges as shown above.
    2. Align the seat rails with the top edges of the lower crosspiece. Then, attach the rails to the legs.
    3. Repeat the process with the other side.
    4. Next, insert one end slat between the seat rails, butt it against the bottom crosspiece, and screw it to the side and seat assemblies.
    5. Repeat at the other end with the remaining slat.
    A woman constructing an outdoor sofa
    Mock Tuna

    7. Add the Back Rails

    1. Clamp the top back rail flush with the top of the back legs. Then, screw it to the sides.
    2. Similarly, position the lower back rail midway between the upper back rail and the seat rail and attach it to the sides.

    8. Stain and Seal the Parts

    1. Fill the pocket holes with plugs or wood filler and sand up to 120 grit.
    2. Apply stain if desired and then two coats of exterior polyurethane or paint.
    3. Thoroughly seal any spots where water can sneak in—including any exposed end grain, pocket holes, and the bottoms of the legs—to protect your sofa from the weather.

    Finishing Touches for an Outdoor Sofa

    The final steps in creating your outdoor sofa involve filling holes, sanding, and applying a protective finish to ensure your new furniture piece withstands the elements.

    Filling and Sanding

    Sanding your sofa’s surface ensures it’s smooth and ready to accept an even application of stain or paint. Opt for a finishing sander to achieve a more polished look and follow these steps to fill and sand your sofa:

    1. Fill the pocket holes with wood plugs or wood filler.
    2. Sand the entire piece up to 120 grit, ensuring a smooth surface throughout.

    Adding Additional Stability

    Consider adding diagonal braces to the corners of the sofa frame for increased stability. Cut four 10-inch diagonal pieces from your leftover 2-by-4 boards and attach them to the inside corners with screws and glue. This extra step will ensure that your sofa remains robust and durable over time, especially if you plan to use it frequently or in high-traffic areas.

    Staining and Sealing

    While a classic wood finish can be attractive, you might want to customize your sofa to match your outdoor decor. Consider painting the frame or using a colored wood stain. This customization allows you to add your personal touch to the project, making it not only a functional piece of furniture but also an aesthetic addition to your outdoor space. Here’s how to stain and seal your sofa:

    1. Apply your chosen stain color by following the manufacturer’s instructions.
    2. Once the stain is dry, apply two coats of exterior polyurethane or paint.
    3. Seal any exposed end grain, pocket holes, and the bottoms of the legs to protect against moisture.

    Comfort and Maintenance for Outdoor Sofas

    Once the body of your outdoor sofa is complete, you can add some extra comfort-enhancing touches as follows:

    Adding Comfort Cushions

    To complete your outdoor sofa, add comfortable cushions that fit the dimensions of your seat and back. Select cushions made of weather-resistant fabric and materials suitable for outdoor use. Cushion covers with zippers are easier to clean and maintain. Largesse found her cushions online for $35 per set—each set contained one seat and one back cushion.

    Regular Maintenance

    Even though your sofa is built to withstand outdoor conditions, regular maintenance will prolong its life. Consider the following tips to maintain your sofa for years to come:

    • Apply a fresh coat of protective sealer every year to keep the wood in top condition.
    • Clean the sofa frame regularly with a mild detergent and water to remove dirt and grime.
    • Inspect the wooden frame regularly for any signs of wear or damage, such as cracks or splinters, and address these issues promptly to maintain the sofa’s structural integrity.
    • Store the sofa in a sheltered area during extreme weather conditions like heavy rain or snow.
    • Store your cushions indoors or cover them when you’re not using them to protect them from harsh weather.

    Our Conclusion

    Building your own outdoor sofa is a rewarding project that combines affordability with customization. This DIY approach allows you to create a sturdy, comfortable piece of furniture tailored to your outdoor space. With proper care and maintenance, your handcrafted sofa will provide a cozy spot for relaxation and entertainment. Thoughtful preparation and personal touches ensure that your sofa will be a functional, cherished element of your outdoor living area.

    Next Up In House One

    Learn the most common wire sizes so you can choose the right gauge for your next project.

    by Heath Eastman
    In this video, Ask This Old House master electrician Heath Eastman teaches host Kevin O’Connor about wire gauges and shares the applications for different sizes of wires

    Your home’s electrical system is like a circulatory system, with wires of various sizes, or gauges, carrying power where you need it. All these wire sizes may seem random, but the different wire gauges have distinct applications. The American Wire Gauge (AWG) system standardizes wire sizes, and understanding it can help you select the right wire for your projects.

    In today’s video, Ask This Old House master electrician Heath Eastman teaches host Kevin O’Connor about wire gauges and shares the applications for different sizes of wires.

    What Is American Wire Gauge (AWG)?

    American Wire Gauge (AWG) is the standard system used in the U.S. to measure the diameter of electrical wires. In the AWG system, numbers represent wire sizes. The system might seem counterintuitive at first: the higher the gauge number, the thinner the wire. For example, a 14 AWG wire is thicker than an 18 AWG wire. This pattern continues until reaching 1 AWG.

    For wires larger than 1 AWG, sizes are denoted using the term “aught” (pronounced “awt”). As the number of aughts increases, so does the wire’s thickness. There are four of these “zero” or “aught” gauges:

    • 1/0 AWG (pronounced “one aught”)
    • 2/0 AWG (pronounced “two aught”)
    • 3/0 AWG (pronounced “three aught”)
    • 4/0 AWG (pronounced “four aught”)

    You’ll typically see these thicker, single-conductor cables in industrial settings and large residential applications, such as service entrance cables.

    Why Different Wire Sizes Matter

    Different wire gauges exist because different electrical applications require different amounts of power. Thicker wires can safely carry more electrical current than thinner wires, and they carry electricity more efficiently across long distances. 

    Electrical codes specify minimum wire sizes for various applications to ensure safety and performance. Using wire that’s too thin for a high-current application can cause overheating and potentially start a fire.

    Wire size also affects voltage drop, which is the decrease in voltage that occurs as electricity travels through a wire. Using a thicker wire minimizes the resistance so that connected devices receive the right voltage.

    Common Wire Sizes and Their Applications

    Here’s a breakdown of some common wire gauges and their typical uses. Selecting the correct gauge ensures that your electrical system and everything connected to it operates efficiently and safely.

    • 18 AWG: This is a thin wire commonly used for low-voltage applications such as doorbells, security systems, and thermostats.
    • 14 AWG: This is the standard size for many residential applications, including 15-amp lighting circuits, bedroom and office outlets, and general-purpose household wiring.
    • 12 AWG: This is a slightly thicker wire used for 20-amp circuits, kitchen and bathroom outlets, and other areas with devices that draw more current.
    • 10 AWG: This thicker wire is suitable for 30-amp circuits, electric clothes dryers, small electric ovens, and window air conditioning units.
    • 8 and 6 AWG: These wires are the largest you are likely to see inside your home. They’re used for high-current applications such as central air conditioning units, electric ranges, and electric vehicle charging stations.
    • 4 AWG and beyond: These are very thick wires typically used for large industrial equipment, main service feeds, EV chargers, and subpanels.

    Decoding Wire Labels and Conductor Counts

    When shopping for electrical wires, you’ll often see designations like 14/2 or 12/3. These numbers provide important information about the wire’s characteristics, helping you choose the right type for your project.

    The number before the slash indicates the wire gauge (AWG). The number after the slash represents the count of insulated conductors inside the wire jacket, excluding the ground wire. For example, a 14/2 wire contains two 14 AWG insulated conductors plus a ground wire, while a 12/3 wire contains three insulated 12 AWG conductors plus a ground wire.

    The number of conductors you need depends on the specific electrical application. A 14/2 or 12/2 wire works for most standard household circuits. However, you would need a 14/3 or 12/3 wire for three-way switch circuits or other applications needing an additional conductor.

    Choosing the Right Wire for Your Project

    Selecting the appropriate wire size is key for safety and performance. Here are some factors to consider:

    • Circuit amperage: The amperage rating of the circuit is a primary factor in wire selection. As a general rule, 15-amp circuits require 14 AWG wire, 20-amp circuits require 12 AWG wire, and 30-amp circuits require 10 AWG wire.
    • Device power requirements: Consider the power needs of the devices you’ll connect to the circuit. High-power appliances like electric ovens or air conditioners may require thicker wires, even if the circuit amperage doesn’t demand it.
    • Wire run length: Longer wire runs may require thicker wires to minimize voltage drop, especially for high-current applications. This consideration is especially important for large homes or setups with complex wiring paths.
    • Environmental factors: Wire insulation varies, with different types designed to withstand specific environmental conditions such as moisture, heat, or chemical exposure. Select the right insulation for longevity and safety.
    • Local electrical codes: Always consult and adhere to local electrical codes, which may have specific requirements for wire sizes in different applications.

    Safety Considerations When Working With Wire Gauges

    Working with electrical wiring can be dangerous. Here are some important safety tips:

    • Always turn off the power at the main breaker before working on any electrical wiring.
    • Use a voltage tester to confirm that wires are not live before handling them.
    • Never exceed the ampacity rating of a wire.
    • Keep your work area dry and clean to avoid hazards.
    • Use appropriate personal protective equipment, such as insulated gloves and safety glasses.
    • If you’re unsure about any aspect of electrical work, consult a licensed electrician.

    When in doubt, it’s always best to consult with a professional electrician to guarantee your electrical system is safe and up to code.

    Next Up In Electrical

    Ask This Old House mason Mark McCullough helps a homeowner repair the flagstone steps in their entryway.

    by Mark McCullough
     In this video, Ask This Old House mason Mark McCullough shows how to repair your flagstone steps.

    Project details

    Skill

    2 out of 5Easy to Moderate

    Cost

    Under $50

    Estimated Label

    1 day

    We may be compensated if you purchase through links on our website. Our team is committed to delivering honest, objective, and independent reviews on home products and services.

    More

    Flagstone steps add natural beauty and durability to your home, but over time, they may loosen or wear down. Repairing flagstone steps can be a simple DIY project that restores both safety and style to your entryway. In the video above, Ask This Old House mason Mark McCullough shows how to repair your flagstone steps, addressing common issues like loose stones and deteriorating joints.

    Preparing for Flagstone Repair

    Before starting, gather the necessary tools and materials to make the process smoother and more efficient.

    Tools

    You need the following tools: 

    • Caulking gun
    • Cold chisel
    • Large sponge
    • Masonry hammer
    • Masonry trowels
    • Mortar trough
    • Paintbrush
    • Stiff bristle brush

    Materials

    You also need the following materials:

    • Concrete bonding agent
    • Construction adhesive
    • Masonry sealer
    • Paintable caulk
    • Painter’s tape
    • Type S mortar mix
    • Water
    Tools & Materials

    Steps To Repair Flagstone

    Follow these steps to repair your flagstone steps and restore their look and function.

    1. Removing Loose Stones and Old Mortar

    Begin by identifying and removing any loose flagstones. Use a hammer and cold chisel to break the mortar bond around the loose stone. Hold the chisel upright and strike with the hammer to crush the joint. Once the mortar is loose, slide the chisel under the flagstone and remove it.

    Next, use the chisel and hammer to remove the existing mortar bed and any mortar around the bordering stone. Clear away any dust and loose grit with the masonry brush or stiff bristle brush to prepare for the new mortar.

    2. Cleaning the Area

    Make sure the area where you’ll be working is clean. Remove all debris, dust, and loose material to create a strong bond for the new mortar. A clean surface helps the new mortar hold better and last longer.

    3. Applying Bonding Agent

    Brush a concrete bonding agent onto the exposed concrete. This step keeps the concrete from pulling moisture out of the mortar too fast. Coat the surface and edges of the stone and mortar to help them stick together.

    4. Mixing and Applying New Mortar

    Mix the Type S mortar in a mortar trough according to the instructions on the package. Add water slowly while stirring until the mortar is thick, like oatmeal.

    Use a masonry trowel to spread the mortar onto the prepared area. Press down lightly with the edge of the trowel to create small ridges, which help the stone bond to the mortar. Spread the mortar to the edges of the surrounding stones.

    5. Resetting the Flagstones

    Place the flagstone into the bed of mortar and wiggle it into place so it’s aligned with the existing floor.
    If excess mortar comes up around the edges, scrape it off carefully. For stones at the edge of a step, pack extra mortar under the stone for added support.

    6. Filling Joints and Smoothing Surfaces

    Use the sponge, a bit of water, and light pressure to remove the excess mortar from the stone surfaces and smooth the joints. This will pull the sand aggregate up from the joint, giving it a rougher look to match the existing floor. Keep working on the area until you’re happy with the result.

    Fixing Gaps Between Flagstone and Wood

    When flagstone meets wood structures, such as stair risers, you’ll need to make a flexible joint to allow for movement and avoid cracking.

    Here’s how to create a “soft joint”:

    1. Clean out old material from the gap.
    2. Use painter’s tape to line the edges of the gap.
    3. Fill the gap with paintable caulk.
    4. Smooth the caulk using a bit of dish soap on your finger.
    5. Remove the tape and allow the caulk to dry.

    McCullough showcases this method by smoothing out the caulk seam, creating a seamless finish.

    Finishing Touches of Flagstone Repair

    After completing the repair work, there are a few final steps to guarantee the longevity and appearance of your flagstone steps:

    • Applying masonry sealer: Once the repair has cured, apply a masonry sealer to the entire flagstone surface. This sealer protects the stone and mortar from moisture and adds a subtle shine. It also helps blend the new repair with the existing stone for a smooth, finished look.
    • Curing time: Let the repaired area sit for about 28 days to fully dry and harden. This gives the mortar time to reach full strength.
    • Routine maintenance: To keep your flagstone steps in good shape, clean them regularly. Sweep away debris to prevent buildup, and check the steps for any small cracks or loose stones. Fixing small problems early can help avoid bigger repairs later.

    Next Up In Masonry

    Whether she loves self-care, gadgets, or gardening, we’ve got great Mother’s Day gift ideas to make her feel celebrated and loved.

    by Stephanie Koncewicz, Manager, Digital Media
    Close-up of a woman's hands holding a bouquet of light pink tulips against her light gray sweater.
    Credit: Priscilla Du Preez on Unsplash

    We may be compensated if you purchase through links on our website. Our team is committed to delivering honest, objective, and independent reviews on home products and services.

    More

    Finding the perfect Mother’s Day gift can be challenging, but we’ve done the hard work for you. Whether you’re shopping for your mom, grandma, mother-in-law, a new mom, or a special motherlike figure, we’ve rounded up the best gift ideas.

    From beauty products and tech accessories to gardening gifts and DIY essentials, these thoughtful picks are sure to make her day.

    Stalwart Toolbox Organizer

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Stalwart Toolbox Organizer

    • $31.99

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    Perfect for the mom who is all about staying organized, this toolbox features four pullouts, and custom dividable drawers, which are ideal for hardware, trinkets arts and crafts supplies. A larger compartment under the lid provides ample room for stationery, hand tools, and gadgets that can’t fit within the divided drawers. And Amazon Prime’s quick shipping makes it a great last-minute Mother’s Day gift.

    Cuisinart Cast-Iron Casserole Dish

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Cuisinart Cast Iron Casserole Dish

    • $99.95

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    This beautiful casserole dish comes in a variety of colors to match Mom’s kitchen decor. Cast iron offers excellent heat retention and distribution to make it easier for her to prepare all of her favorite recipes, whether she’s cooking on the stovetop or in the oven. It’s even dishwasher-safe for fast clean-up.

    Ninja CREAMi Ice Cream, Gelato & Sorbet Maker

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Kohl’s

    Ninja CREAMi Ice Cream, Gelato & Sorbet Maker

    • $199.99
    • $229.99
    • 13% off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    This high-quality treat maker is fun for the whole family. It has seven different preset programs that allows you to turn almost anything into a tasty frozen treat, or even healthy items like breakfast smoothies. Its compact size makes it easy to fit underneath cabinets, and for easy clean-up, the containers and lids are dishwasher-safe.

    ASAKUKI Smart Wi-Fi Essential Oil Diffuser

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    ASAKUKI Smart Wi-Fi Essential Oil Diffuser

    • $35.99

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    This oil diffuser releases a pleasant scent and creates a relaxing environment. Download the smart app, and change the purifier’s diffusing settings. The diffuser is also compatible with Amazon Alexa, so it can easily operate with voice control.

    Fitbit Versa 4 Fitness Smartwatch

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Fitbit Versa 4 Fitness Smartwatch

    • $149.95
    • $199.95
    • 25% off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    Help the mom in your life realize her fitness goals with this smartwatch. It allows for complex tracking with over 40 exercise modes, and it also delivers notifications directly to the watch with a battery that lasts nearly a full week. Additionally, this smartwatch can help determine if it’s time for a workout, or a recovery day.

    Bosch Power Drill Set

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Bosch Power Drill Set

    • $140.12
    • $219
    • 36% off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    This kit comes with an electric screwdriver with four interchangeable heads to tackle a multitude of jobs, such as drilling at an angle. The screwdriver uses an LED light to illuminate dark areas and a 12-volt rechargeable battery to deliver enough power for everyday tasks around the home.

    SNOOZ White Noise Machine

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    SNOOZ White Noise Machine

    • $80
    • $100
    • 20% off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    This white noise machine is the perfect gift for any mom that has trouble sleeping, or just likes to have white noise on when they go to bed. It provides a peaceful background noise and has 10 different volume settings. Additionally, this white noise machine is easy to maneuver and weighs just over one pound.

    Click and Grow Indoor Garden

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Click and Grow Indoor Garden

    • $199.96
    • $249.95
    • 20% off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    Looking to bring your garden indoors? This kit comes with three tomatoes, three basil, and three green lettuce pods in a sleek Scandinavian-style planter. It has several useful features, including LED grow lights, a water level indicator, and a self-watering system. As an added bonus, it comes recommended by Jenn Nawada, one of This Old House‘s landscape contractors.

    KitchenAid Bowl-Lift Stand Mixer

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    KitchenAid KSM70SKXX Bowl-Lift Stand Mixer

    • $499.99
    • $599.99
    • 17% off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    For the Mom who loves spending time whipping up new things in the kitchen, this high-quality stand mixer could be a game-changer. It features a 3-point locking bowl that provides extra stability for mixing heavy ingredients, and it has 11 different mixing speeds for maximum power and control. Additionally, this stylish mixer comes in a variety of color options.

    Lake & Skye Apaaray Eau De Parfum

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Lake & Skye

    Lake & Skye Apaaray Eau De Parfum

    • $98

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    Impress the mom in your life with this elegant, great-smelling perfume from Lake & Skye. This perfume has a floral, woody scent that includes notes of orris, violet, fig, lemon, sandalwood, amber, and cedarwood. It is free of parabens, phthalates, and sulfate and also comes packaged in a glamorous display box.

    Shark SpeedStyle RapidGloss Finisher and Dryer

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Shark SpeedStyle RapidGloss Finisher and Dryer

    • $159.99
    • $199.99
    • 20% off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    This powerful shark hair dryer allows hair to go from wet to dry at super-fast speeds without heat damage. It comes equipped with three accessories for custom hair styling and can also be attached to a RapidGloss Finisher, which allows for a high-shine finish on straight hair.

    Vornado Vintage Air Circulator Fan

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Vornado VFAN Jr. Vintage Air Circulator Fan

    • $49.99
    • $79.99
    • 38% off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    This tabletop fan not only circulates air more effectively than most, but its timeless design also uses authentic styling from the original Vornadofan of 1945. Additionally, the two-speed manual control is easy to use to dial in your comfort.

    LSA International Lota Vase/Lantern

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    LSA International Lota Vase/Lantern

    • $229

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    This simple vase combines a see-through glass body with a sustainably sourced wood base to hold a fresh bouquet of flowers. The wooden base can also hold tea lights or other candles if you don’t have fresh flowers to display.

    Fellow Stagg Electric Kettle

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Fellow Stagg Electric Kettle

    • $165

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    As far as kitchen gifts go, this electric kettle from Fellow Stagg is one of our team’s favorites. The uncommon good is as fun to look at as it is to use. It features variable temperature control, a precision pour spout, and a sleek LCD display. The kettle comes in a wide variety of finishes, so you can choose one that matches Mom’s cookware or one that makes a statement.

    YETI Rambler Bottle

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    YETI Rambler Bottle

    • $59.99

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    This insulated water bottle from YETI is the perfect size for an afternoon hike, morning commute, or relaxing evening on the patio. Better yet, pair it with a matching YETI Tumbler so Mom can keep coffee, tea, or matcha latte hot “until the last sip.” And if alpine yellow isn’t their color, rest easy—YETI drinkware comes in more than 20 colors, from aquifer blue to winter white.

    Okara Silver Toning Shampoo

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Furterer

    Okara Silver Toning Shampoo

    • $68

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    This shampoo is specifically designed for women with gray, white, or platinum blonde hair and uses natural ingredients to neutralize brassy, yellow tones and provide, healthier hair that is brighter and more colorful. It comes in a 20-ounce bottle and uses 6.0 acid pH to help smooth hair cuticles.

    iRobot Roomba Robot Vacuum

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    iRobot Roomba Robot Vacuum

    • $179.99
    • $274.99
    • 35% off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    This iRobot robotic vacuum allows you to clean your floors from anywhere with an app or virtual assistant. Its three-stage cleaning system loosens, lifts, and suctions dirt, dust, and hair from hard and carpeted floors without you having to lift a finger.

    Klein Tools Canvas Tool Bag

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Klein Tools Canvas Tool Bag

    • $59.99

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    This tool bag has an open-top design for quick and easy access to the tools you use most. It has a tough double-layer canvas bottom that sits comfortably in any hall closet to keep tools organized and at the ready.

    Bambusi Luxury Bamboo Bathtub Tray

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Bambusi Luxury Bamboo Bathtub Tray Caddy

    • $25.38
    • $41.21
    • 38% off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    This tray holds electronics, books, drinks, and more for Mom while they soak in the tub. Its extendable design allows it to fit on the edges of almost any bathtub. The bamboo construction and waterproof varnish make this unique shower caddy an elegant and durable accessory for any powder room.

    BLACK+DECKER Drill & Home Tool Kit

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    BLACK+DECKER Drill & Home Tool Kit

    • $79.99
    • $120.01
    • 33% off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    This comprehensive kit comes with 68 tools to help you complete DIY projects around the home. It contains a variety of items, including a cordless drill, adjustable wrench, and utility knife, stored in a fabric tool bag.

    Swedish Wholesale Resusable Dishcloths

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Swedish Wholesale Resusable Dishcloths

    • $23.99

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    This 10-pack of reusable dishcloths is a great gift basket addition for the eco-conscious mom. They’re made from biodegradable cellulose and all-natural cotton, with each one replacing up to 15 paper towels. After using one to dry dishes or clean counters, you can throw it in the washing machine to clean with the rest of your linens.

    Lindt Milk Chocolate Truffles

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Lindt Milk Chocolate Truffles

    • $14.61
    • $20.88
    • 30% off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    If your mom has a sweet tooth, consider getting her these luxurious milk chocolate truffles from Lindt. These chocolates have a smooth outer shell with a creamy center, and they come individually wrapped to ensure freshness. The chocolatier also makes its world-famous truffles in a number of other flavors, including dark chocolate, caramel, and white chocolate.

    LifeStraw Personal Water Filter

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    LifeStraw Personal Water Filter

    • $17.47
    • $19.95
    • 12% off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    This water filter is a unique gift for moms who love to hike or camp. It removes harmful bacteria, parasites, microplastics, and more from river, stream, or lake water. Because of its lightweight, skinny design, you can take it anywhere.

    REVLON Hair Dryer and Volumizer

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    REVLON Hair Dryer and Volumizer

    • $39.2

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    This hair tool is a combination dryer and volumizer that dries and styles hair all in one. It has tangle-free bristles and a heat-protecting ceramic coating. Furthermore, its curved ergonomic handle makes it easy to hold and use.

    Vacu Vin Wine Saver

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Vacu Vin Wine Saver

    • $17.99

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    Whether the mom on your list is a brunch mimosa enthusiast or a serious sommelier, they’ll get good use out of Vacu Vin’s clever wine saver and pair of reusable silicone stoppers. Just press one of the stoppers into the top of an open wine bottle and apply the hand-operated vacuum sealer to keep leftover vino fresh for up to 10 days—even if Mom forgets to put it back in the wine cooler.

    Vlando Travel Jewelry Box Organizer

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Vlando Travel Jewelry Box Organizer

    • $5.99

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    This small jewelry box is made from premium faux leather. It’s large enough to fit a wide variety of earrings, necklaces, bracelets, and rings, but small enough to fit in a carry-on or crossbody bag. It also makes the perfect gift box for a small, personalized gift or Etsy trinket—one of our team’s favorite Mother’s Day gift ideas.

    Our Methodology

    To provide our readers with the best product recommendations possible, we rely on several key sources of information to help guide our selection process.

    Initial Research: Our research process began by generating a list of products with a significant number of verified buyer reviews and an average customer review rating of 4–5 stars. We looked at positive and negative reviews alike, focusing on information from both satisfied and critical buyers.

    Expert Insights: Through years of experience, we’ve learned that listening to what others have to say is key to building accurate, well-rounded articles. To complement our in-house expertise, our team looked at reviews and videos from trusted publications and independent testers, spoke with subject matter experts, and drew insights from reader contributions.

    Final Product Selection: We then began fine-tuning our list by replacing older models with the latest versions and eliminating any discontinued models. From there, we pared the list down by comparing each model’s feature set and selecting the best-in-class options for a variety of buyers, budgets, and scenarios.

    Why You Can Trust Us

    This Old House has empowered homeowners and DIYers for more than four decades with top-notch home improvement advice in the form of television programs, print media, and digital content.
    Our team focuses on creating in-depth product and service review content. To date, we’ve published over 1,600 reviews on products for the home, from doorbell cameras and dining room decor to circular saws and snow blowers.
    Once we conclude the research and testing phases, we craft a comprehensive, user-friendly article of recommended products and additional information to help our readers make the right purchase.

    To share feedback or ask a question about this article, send a note to our team at reviews@thisoldhousereviews.com.

    Next Up In Gift Guides

    Filed under:

    Insider

    The roof is insulated from the outside. Framing presents a challenge for running pipes. A lighting solution for the new ell is devised, and a lesson is given on how to properly waterproof a roof.

    by This Old House TV

    The two-story timber frame ell has been brought back to its original one-story design and the attached barn element has taken shape. In the original gambrel, the bedrooms have been stripped back exposing the original framing.

    Like the rest of the uncovered timber frame, the homeowners would like to keep the ceiling exposed, which prohibits conventional insulating. Tom Silva and Charlie Silva show Kevin O’Connor an alternative method of insulating from the outside.

    Inside, plumber Brian Bilo walks Richard Trethewey through the challenges the framing presented for running the plumbing pipes and how he plans to solve them.

    Rot and other peculiar discoveries are found while digging a trench for the mechanicals and sewer under the floor of the old gambrel house.

    Homeowners Bill and Helen and Heath Eastman meet in the timber frame ell to discuss a lighting solution that is both functional and that will preserve the historical integrity of the original materials.

    On the roof where the ell connects to the new addition, Tom and Charlie teach how to properly waterproof and install shingles where different rooflines meet.

    Original Air Date: May 4, 2023, Season 44; Ep. 21 23:42

    Products and resources from this episode

    Next Up In Season 44 - 1720 Cape Ann Gambrel

    Wireless EV chargers allow you to conveniently recharge your electric car at home.

    by Ross Trethewey

    Wireless technology has revolutionized many parts of our daily lives, from internet connectivity to household appliances. Electric vehicle (EV) chargers are one of the conveniences that have emerged from this technology, allowing you to recharge your electric car without bulky cables. In the video above, Ross Trethewey explores the cutting-edge world of wireless EV charging with experts from WiTricity, demonstrating how this technology works and its future impact on the future of electric vehicles.

    How Wireless EV Charging Works

    Wireless EV charging, also known as inductive charging, uses electromagnetic fields to transfer energy from a charging pad to a receiver on the vehicle. This technology eliminates the need for physical cables and plugs, making charging more convenient.

    Key Components of Wireless EV Charging

    A wireless EV charging system consists of three main components:

    • Power supply: Connects to the electrical grid battery
    • Ground pad: Creates a magnetic field for energy transfer
    • Vehicle-mounted receiver coil: Captures the energy from the magnetic field

    These all work together to deliver a seamless charging experience, allowing drivers to simply park their vehicles over the charging pad and walk away.

    The Science Behind Wireless Charging

    Wireless EV charging relies on the principle of magnetic fields. The charging pad and the receiver in the vehicle are specifically designed magnetic resonators that transfer power over a certain distance via the magnetic field. This technology creates efficient energy transfer without the need for direct physical contact between the charging pad and the vehicle.

    Advantages of Wireless EV Chargers

    Wireless EV chargers have several benefits that make them a great option for electric vehicle owners:

    • Convenience: No need to plug in or unplug cables
    • Weather-resistant: Waterproof design for outdoor use
    • Flexible parking: Full charging power even with slight misalignment
    • Efficiency: Comparable charging speeds to Level 2 plug-in chargers
    • Future-proof: Potential for integration into roads and parking spaces

    Installation and Compatibility

    Installing a wireless EV charger is similar to setting up a Level 2 plug-in charging station (which is faster than the Level 1 chargers typically provided with electric vehicles). The process typically involves:

    1. Mounting the power supply unit
    2. Installing the ground pad in your parking location
    3. Connecting the system to the electrical grid

    After installation, you simply need to make sure your car is aligned properly, which you can do with the help of a parking assistant built into your vehicle.

    Cost Considerations

    The cost of wireless EV chargers is comparable to Level 2 plug-in charging stations. For reference, installing a Level 2 charging station can cost $2,000–$10,000 per port, including labor, materials, and permitting. That said, prices will likely become more competitive as the technology becomes more widespread.

    Future Developments in Wireless EV Charging

    The future of wireless EV charging looks promising and has many exciting developments on the horizon, including the following:

    Factory-Installed Options

    Car manufacturers are working towards offering wireless charging as a factory-installed option or add-on for new electric vehicles. This integration will eliminate the need for aftermarket installations and make wireless charging more accessible to EV owners.

    In-Ground Charging Pads

    To address concerns about snow removal and durability, manufacturers are developing in-ground charging pads made of concrete. These pads can be installed flush with the pavement surface, allowing snow plows to pass over them without causing damage. This advancement aims to make wireless chargers more robust and less susceptible to external wear and tear, extending their lifespan and reliability.

    Public Charging Infrastructure

    As wireless charging technology advances, we may see its integration into public parking spaces, street parking, and even roads. This could allow for charging while driving, further extending the range and convenience of electric vehicles. These infrastructure changes could make owning an electric vehicle more attainable for a broader range of consumers, encouraging the adoption of greener technologies.

    Challenges and Limitations

    While wireless EV charging offers numerous benefits, there are some drawbacks to consider:

    • Initial cost: May be more expensive than traditional plug-in chargers
    • Efficiency: Slight energy loss compared to wired charging, though the difference is minimal
    • Limited availability: Currently not as widely available as plug-in charging options
    • Vehicle compatibility: Not all electric vehicles are equipped for wireless charging

    Wireless options also generally require more precise alignment than traditional chargers, which may concern some users. However, as technology develops, this issue is expected to lessen.

    Addressing Environmental Concerns

    Traditional plug-in chargers produce wear and tear on cords and connectors over time, creating waste and additional production and recycling demands. In comparison, wireless systems eliminate these concerns by removing physical contact, hopefully leading to a longer lifespan for charging equipment.

    Indirect Benefits

    As wireless charging becomes more common, it could lead to more people buying electric vehicles, reducing dependence on fossil fuels and lowering greenhouse gas emissions. This aligns with global efforts to combat climate change and promotes a more sustainable future.

    Innovations in User Experience

    Innovations such as dynamic charging—where vehicles can charge while moving—could redefine the EV landscape. This would drastically reduce the downtime associated with charging stops and extend the practical range of electric vehicles. As Trethewey highlights in the video above, the potential for wireless charging to integrate into everyday life is very promising.

    FAQ About Wireless EV Chargers

    Here are answers to a few common questions about wireless EV chargers.

    Can You Add Wireless Charging to a Car?

    Yes, it’s possible to add wireless charging capabilities to existing electric vehicles through retrofit kits. These kits typically include a receiver coil that can be installed on the underside of the vehicle and a display to assist with parking alignment. Availability may be limited to specific vehicle models at first, but as the technology becomes more common, more cars will likely be able to support these upgrades.

    Are Wireless Charging Stations Worth It?

    The value of wireless charging stations depends on individual needs and preferences. For many EV owners, the convenience and ease of use make wireless chargers a worthwhile investment. As the technology becomes more widespread and integrated into vehicles, their convenience will likely increase. This rise in value could also impact the resale value of cars equipped with wireless charging capabilities, making them more sought after in the secondary market.

    Do Wireless Car Chargers Drain Car Battery?

    Wireless EV chargers are designed to be efficient and don’t drain the car’s battery when not in use. The charging process only begins when the vehicle is properly aligned with the charging pad and communication is established between the car and the charging system. This means that the energy is only used when needed, keeping a healthy battery life and maximizing efficiency.

    Next Up In Smart Homes

    Learn about pollinator plants and their importance with This Old House landscaper Jenn Nawada and host Kevin O’Connor.

    by Jenn Nawada, Landscape Contractor

    A summer garden buzzing with bees, with butterflies flitting among the blooms—it’s a heavenly sight and a hallmark of a healthy environment. As they travel from flower to flower, feeding on their nectar, these pollinating insects are performing a necessary task—transferring pollen from one blossom to another, allowing them to morph into fruits and seeds, safeguarding and continuing the cycle of life.

    In the video above, This Old House landscape contractor Jenn Nawada explores various pollinator-friendly plants at a local nursery with host Kevin O’Connor. This guide will help you understand the importance of pollinator plants and how to incorporate them into your garden. 

    Correction: In the video above, one plant is identified as Asclepias tuberosa (butterfly weed), but it should be identified as Asclepias incarnata (rose milkweed). Both will attract butterflies.

    What Are Pollinator Plants?

    Pollinator plants are flowering species that attract and provide food for pollinating insects and birds. These plants produce nectar and pollen, which are essential food sources for pollinators. As pollinators feed, they transfer pollen from one flower to another, facilitating plant reproduction.

    Types of Pollinators

    Unfortunately, populations of pollinator insects have been declining for decades. As a result, there’s a movement to encourage homeowners to replenish pollinator-friendly food sources in their yards. While honeybees have gotten a lot of press—bees are the only species that actively collect pollen rather than transfer it passively—there are about 4,000 native bee species in North America, not to mention myriad species of butterflies, wasps, flies, beetles, and nectar-loving hummingbirds that are all pollination workhorses.

    Benefits of Pollinator Plants

    Incorporating pollinator plants into your garden offers numerous advantages:

    • Increased biodiversity in your yard
    • Improved fruit and vegetable yields for edible plants
    • Support for local ecosystems
    • Enhanced garden aesthetics with colorful blooms

    How To Create a Pollinator-Friendly Garden

    Designing a garden that attracts pollinators requires thoughtful planning and plant selection. By following these guidelines, you can create a thriving habitat for these essential creatures.

    Choose Native Plants

    Native plants are adapted to local conditions and have evolved alongside native pollinators. They typically require less water and maintenance than non-native species. As Nawada points out, native plants are an excellent choice for pollinator gardens because they support local ecosystems and reduce the need for chemical interventions.

    Provide Diverse Bloom Times

    To support pollinators throughout the growing season, include plants that flower at different times. This ensures a continuous food source from early spring through late fall. Below, we’ll list examples of recommended plants for each season.

    Stick to Straight Species

    By “straight species,” we mean the version that evolved in the wild, not human-engineered cultivars. However, cultivated varieties can also be useful if they have not lost the properties of the parent plants that attract pollinators. For example, if a cultivar is an exceptionally double-petaled variety, it may not have the pollen or nectar levels of its parent, or its petals may be so dense that pollinators cannot penetrate them. If you must choose a cultivar, make sure it doesn’t differ too widely from the original in appearance and color.

    Offer Variety

    Each pollinator has its own techniques for sourcing nectar and transferring pollen, so flowers should be as varied as the pollinators that visit them. Include a mix of flower shapes and colors to appeal to a wide range of species:

    • Tubular flowers for hummingbirds and long-tongued bees
    • Flat or clustered flowers for butterflies and short-tongued bees
    • Purple, blue, and yellow flowers to attract bees
    • Red and orange flowers to attract hummingbirds

    Follow Best Practices

    Beyond the plants you pick, also follow these steps to ensure your pollinator garden thrives and continues to support local wildlife.

    • Wait until spring to cut back perennials so pollinators can nest and overwinter among them.
    • Avoid using pesticides, which can harm beneficial insects.
    • Plant near a water source or provide one, such as a shallow birdbath or fountain.
    • Leave some areas of bare soil for ground-nesting bees.

    Perennials That Attract Pollinators

    Different times of the year are ideal for certain flowering plants. If gardeners time their garden design correctly, they can add plants that flower in each season, ensuring they always have a pollinator plant or two to offer birds, bees, and butterflies. For all but the cup plant, Culver’s root, and Joe Pye weed, there are cultivar versions of each plant below that will also attract pollinators.

    Blue False Indigo (Baptisia Australis)

    Blue false indigo (Baptisia australis and cvs.)
    Howard Rice/Gap Photos
    • What it attracts: Native bees—including bumblebees—butterflies and moths
    • How it grows: Reaches up to 5 feet tall and wide in full sun and well-drained soil in Zones 3–9. Blooms from late spring to early summer.
    • Plant profile: This big, bold perennial is a wonderful border filler, its tall stems of blue-green leaves topped with spikes of blue pea-like flowers that are followed by dusky, dark-gray seedpods. Its deep taproot makes it exceptionally drought-tolerant. Bumblebees especially love this plant, but it attracts any number of pollinators. New cultivars have introduced lots of interesting flower colors, and most seem to be just as attractive to pollinators as the original species.

    Butterfly Weed (Asclepias Tuberosa)

    Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa and cvs.)
    Howard Rice/Gap Photos
    • What it attracts: Honeybees, native bees including bumblebees, butterflies, and hummingbirds
    • How it grows: Up to 3 feet tall and 2 feet wide in full sun and fertile, well-drained soil in Zones 4–9. Blooms from midsummer to early fall.
    • Plant profile: A species of milkweed without the characteristic milky sap, this perennial is highly attractive to monarch butterflies, who flock to the nectar of its domed heads of starry orange flowers. Found in dry, open fields and prairies in most of the U.S., it thrives on difficult sites. Once planted, it does not like to be moved or divided. Seeds can be gathered from its pods and sown in fall to sprout in spring.

    Spotted Geranium (Geranium Maculatum)

    Spotted geranium (Geranium maculatum and cvs.)
    Nova Photo Graphik/Gap Photos
    • What it attracts: Honeybees, native bees including bumblebees, butterflies, and moths
    • How it grows: Up to 2 feet tall and 18 inches wide in full sun to part shade and moist, in well-drained soil and in Zones 3–8. Blooms from late spring to early summer, and sporadically through late summer.
    • Plant profile: Of the native hardy geraniums, this species has the largest flowers. In hot, dry summers and full sun, its foliage will yellow—cutting it back by half and watering deeply will encourage fresh, new growth. This plant might be a little harder to find in the nursery, but it is worth the effort for its usefulness in open, shady gardens.

    Yarrow (Achillea Millefolium)

    Yarrow (Achillea millefolium and cvs.)
    Gary Smith/Gap Photos
    • What it attracts: Native bees, beetles, butterflies
    • How it grows: Up to 3 feet tall and wide in full sun to part shade and moist, well-drained soil. Blooms early to late summer in Zones 3–9.
    • Plant profile: Blooming atop aromatic, fine-textured, feathery foliage, yarrow’s flat clusters of tiny, daisy-like flowers lure myriad pollinators. This flowering plant spreads by rhizomes to form thick mats and is best suited to the outer reaches of a garden. Cultivated varieties are better behaved and sturdier. Yarrow is also highly deer resistant, and no one flower color is more attractive to pollinators than another, so you can pick from white, cream, pale yellow, pink, peach, and rosy-red blooms.

    Purple Coneflower (Echinacea Purpurea)

    Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
    Pernilla Bergdahl/GAP Photos
    • What it attracts: Honeybees, native bees including bumblebees, butterflies, and wasps
    • How it grows: Up to 5 feet tall and 2 feet wide in full sun to part shade and well-drained soil in Zones 3–9. Blooms mid-to-late summer.
    • Plant profile: This drought-tolerant native is tough and reliable. Coneflowers love full, baking sun but will tolerate a bit of shade, too. In autumn, when their petals fall, the central cones, which dry to brown, offer winter interest and provide seeds for foraging birds. You’ll be hard-pressed to find the original species in a nursery—avoid double-flowering cultivars, which are not nearly as attractive to pollinators, who show no flower-color preference.

    Bee Balm (Monarda)

    Bee balm (Monarda spp. and cvs.)
    Pernilla Bergdahl/Gap Photos
    • What it attracts: Native bees including bumblebees, butterflies, hummingbirds, moths, and wasps
    • How it grows: Up to 4 feet tall and 3 feet wide in full sun to part shade and consistently moist, well-drained soil in Zones 4–9. Blooms mid-to-late summer.
    • Plant profile: Hummingbirds and bees adore this easy-to-grow native, with its big, spreading clumps of aromatic foliage topped with tufted whorls of tubular flowers. The most common species, Monarda didyma, blooms red, but cultivars derived from a cross with Monarda fistulosa come in pink, lavender, and white as well, and are generally more resistant to powdery mildew.

    Anise Hyssop (Agastache Foeniculum)

    A bright female Monarch Butterfly is pollinating a lavender Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum) blossom
    iStock
    • What it attracts: Honeybees, native bees including bumblebees, butterflies, and moths
    • How it grows: Up to 5 feet tall and 2 feet wide in full sun to part shade and well-drained soil in Zones 4–9. Blooms midsummer to early fall.
    • Plant profile: This member of the mint family is a magnet for bees, with spikes of lavender blooms that are key for honey production. The foliage tastes and smells of sweet licorice and is used for herbal teas. Plants self-sow prolifically but are easy to pull up if unwanted. While it thrives in full sun, it can tolerate a bit of shade. Pollinators do not flock to gold-leaved cultivars, but they love the showy ‘Blue Fortune.’

    Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium)

    Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium)
    Annette Lepple/Gap Photos
    • What it attracts: Honeybees, native bees including bumblebees, and butterflies
    • How it grows: Up to 7 feet tall and 4 feet wide in full sun to part shade and moist, well-drained soil in Zones 4–9. Blooms midsummer to early fall.
    • Plant profile: These common native plants—often seen along roadways—are supersized, making them wonderful for the back of a naturalized border or along rustic waterways or woodland edges. They don’t seem to have pest or disease issues besides an occasional touch of powdery mildew during damp seasons, and their rough leaves are deer resistant. Look for Eutrochium purpureum and cultivars, E. maculatum and cultivars, E. fistulosum and cultivars, or E. dubium and cultivars.

    Culver’s Root (Veronicastrum Virginicum)

    Culver’s Root in bloom with False Sunflower.
    iStock
    • What it attracts: Honeybees, native bees including bumblebees, and butterflies
    • How it grows: Up to 7 feet tall and 4 feet wide in full sun to light shade (in hotter climates) and moist soil in Zones 3–8. Blooms from late spring to early summer.
    • Plant profile: This underused North American perennial fits into mixed garden beds with ease, adding lovely verticality, intriguing foliage, and delicate branched spikes of tiny white or blue flowers. Adaptable and reliable, the plant blooms for almost a month, and cut flowers last at least a week in a vase. It is at risk in a number of states, so planting it is beneficial to both the many pollinators it attracts and to its longevity as a species.

    Cup Plant (Silphium Perfoliatum)

    Cup plant (Silphium perfoliatum)
    Martin Hughes-Jones/Gap Photos
    • What it attracts: Honeybees, native bees including bumblebees, butterflies; birds, and moths
    • How it grows: Up to 8 feet tall and 3 feet wide in full sun to part shade and any deep, moist soil in Zones 3–9. Blooms midsummer to early fall.
    • Plant profile: This large perennial’s 3-inch-wide golden flowers wave in the breeze above vigorous, rough-textured foliage. Its leaves are positioned on opposite sides of the stem, forming a cup that holds rainwater, so it serves as a water source even when not in bloom. It self-sows with abandon, so place it at the very back of a border or at the outer reaches of a garden, where it can thrive.

    Blazing Star (Liatris Spicata)

    Blazing star (Liatris spicata and cvs.),
    Tomek Ciesielski/Gap Photos
    • What it attracts: Honeybees, native bees including bumblebees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and moths
    • How it grows: Up to 5 feet tall and 2 feet wide in full sun and moist, well-drained, lean soil in Zones 3–9. Blooms midsummer to early fall.
    • Plant profile: This native’s tall batons of spidery pink-to-lavender flowers open from top to bottom. The plants are tough and drought-tolerant and look right at home in cultivated gardens, where their grassy foliage is a nice contrast to other perennials. While several species are attractive to pollinators, L. spicata and its cultivars are most commonly found in nurseries and garden centers

    Sneezeweed (Helenium)

    Sneezeweed (Helenium spp. and cvs.)
    Howard Rice/GAP Photos
    • What it attracts: Native bees, beetles, butterflies, flies, and wasps
    • How it grows: Up to 5 feet tall and 2 feet wide in full sun and fertile, moist, well-drained soil in Zones 3–8. Blooms late summer to fall.
    • Plant profile: There are species of this plant native to every corner of the United States. With 1- to 2-inch-wide daisy-like flowers in every color of the sunset, from golden yellow to deep red, they attract bees and butterflies in droves. The most common species, yellow-flowering H. autumnale, is most attractive to pollinators, but many perennial cultivars attract them as well, opening up a big range of colors and heights to work with. Sneezeweed will not make you sneeze unless you’re handling dried plants, but if eaten in large quantities, all parts of the plant can be poisonous, so take care if pets and children are in residence.

    New England Aster (Symphyotrichum Novae-Angliae)

    Purple New England Aster flowers
    iStock
    • What it attracts: Native bees including bumblebees, butterflies, and moths
    • How it grows: Up to 6 feet tall and 3 feet wide in full sun to part shade and fertile, moist soil in Zones 4–8. Blooms late summer to fall.
    • Plant profile: These masses of small, daisy-like, deep-purple flowers with golden centers are a nice contrast to the ubiquitous fall colors of red, orange, and yellow. Left in place, they are a great source of late-season nourishment for a variety of pollinators. Despite its name, this perennial is native as far west as North Dakota and New Mexico and as far south as Alabama. It’s incredibly versatile and drought tolerant, and very much at home in meadow gardens. Studies suggest that cultivars in different colors do not attract as many pollinators.

    Pollinators for Every Season

    Season by season, here are the specific pollinator plants from Mahoney’s Garden Center discussed in the video.

    Spring Bloomers

    • Ilex verticillata (Winterberry)
      • Attracts: Bees and birds
      • Features: White flowers in spring, red berries in fall
    • Dicentra (Bleeding heart)
      • Attracts: Bees and hummingbirds
      • Features: Heart-shaped flowers, shade-tolerant
    • Fothergilla (Witch alder)
      • Attracts: Bees and butterflies
      • Features: Fragrant white bottlebrush flowers

    Summer Bloomers

    • Asclepias incarnata (Butterfly weed)
      • Attracts: Monarch butterflies, bees
      • Features: Bright orange flowers, drought-tolerant
    • Echinacea purpurea (Purple coneflower)
      • Attracts: Bees, butterflies, birds
      • Features: Long-lasting blooms, seeds for birds
    • Monarda (Bee balm)
      • Attracts: Bees, butterflies, hummingbirds
      • Features: Aromatic foliage, vibrant flowers

    Fall Bloomers

    • Symphyotrichum novae-angliae (New England aster)
      • Attracts: Bees, butterflies
      • Features: Purple daisy-like flowers, late-season bloomer
    • Helenium (Sneezeweed)
      • Attracts: Bees, butterflies
      • Features: Daisy-like flowers in warm colors
    • Solidago (Goldenrod)
      • Attracts: Bees, butterflies
      • Features: Yellow flower clusters, drought-tolerant

    Shrubs and Trees for Pollinators

    Woody plants can provide valuable resources for pollinators while adding structure to your garden. They offer flowers, habitat, and sometimes even food.

    Flowering Shrubs

    Flowering shrubs can add season-long interest and support pollinator populations. Here are some popular choices:

    • Hydrangea quercifolia (Oakleaf hydrangea)
      • Attracts: Bees, butterflies
      • Features: Large panicles of flowers, attractive fall foliage
    • Vaccinium corymbosum (Highbush blueberry)
      • Attracts: Bees, birds
      • Features: Edible berries, attractive fall color
    • Diervilla (Bush honeysuckle)
      • Attracts: Bees, butterflies
      • Features: Tubular flowers, native to North America

    Trees for Pollinators

    Trees can contribute significantly to a pollinator garden. They provide nectar, shade, and nesting sites. The Arbor Day Foundation recommends these bee-friendly trees, but many local species are also pollinator-friendly.

    • Cercis canadensis (Eastern redbud)
      • Attracts: Bees, butterflies
      • Features: Early spring flowers, heart-shaped leaves
    • Amelanchier (Serviceberry)
      • Attracts: Bees, birds
      • Features: White flowers, edible berries
    • Tilia americana (American linden)
      • Attracts: Bees
      • Features: Fragrant flowers, important honey plant

    Additional Tips for a Thriving Pollinator Garden

    TOH Pro Tip

    “Many pollinator-friendly species reach an impressive height. As with any garden, place taller plants toward the back of flower beds and borders, and lower-growing ones in front. Planting in masses also creates a broad ‘landing pad’ that attracts pollinators. Choose perennials and shrubs that bloom at various times during the growing season. Having several different plants flowering from early spring through late fall offers pollinators a steady stream of food while extending the life of your garden.” —Jenn Nawada, landscape contractor

    Here are some other ways to create a more resilient and welcoming pollinator garden.

    Consider Plant Placement and Density

    When designing your garden, think about placement and density. Grouping plants into “landing pads” ensures that pollinators don’t have to travel far for their next meal, making your garden more appealing and efficient for them. Grouping also enhances the visual impact of your garden.

    Incorporate Host Plants

    Host plants are specific species that serve as breeding grounds for certain pollinators. For instance, monarch butterflies lay their eggs on milkweed plants. Including these in your garden supports the complete life cycle of pollinators. Other examples include:

    • Parsley for swallowtail butterflies
    • Willows for various butterfly species
    • Sunflowers for many bee species

    Maintain Seasonal Interest

    A well-designed pollinator garden should remain vibrant and attractive throughout the year. Incorporate a mix of plants that provide not only flowers but also attractive foliage, stems, and seed heads. A diverse plant palette keeps the garden appealing even when some plants are not in bloom.

    Our Conclusion

    Creating a pollinator-friendly garden is a rewarding way to support local ecosystems and enjoy a beautiful, vibrant outdoor space. By choosing native plants, providing diverse bloom times, and following best practices, you can create a thriving habitat for bees, butterflies, and other essential pollinators right in your own backyard.

    Resources

    Jenn Nawada in a garden with pollinator plants
    In this sun-drenched side yard, This Old House landscape contractor Jenn Nawada incorporated a variety of colorful coneflowers, which will attract pollinators and birds summer through fall. Little lime hydrangeas offer large green-to white blooms up near the house, while dwarf boxwood will provide structure year-round. | Anna Coleman

    Jenn Nawada and Kevin O’Connor visited Mahoney’s Garden Center.

    Next Up In Gardening

    Ask This Old House carpenter Nathan Gilbert helps a homeowner organize her cluttered, messy shed using customizable shelving and storage systems. Read these steps to learn his tips for organizing a shed. 

    by Nathan Gilbert

    We may be compensated if you purchase through links on our website. Our team is committed to delivering honest, objective, and independent reviews on home products and services.

    More

    A cluttered shed can feel overwhelming, especially when it’s filled with toys, tools, and various household items. However, with the right approach and storage solutions, you can transform your chaotic shed into a well-organized space. In the video, This Old House carpenter, Nathan Gilbert, demonstrates effective shed organization techniques while helping a Texas homeowner tackle her garage clutter. Below, we’ve outlined how to organize a shed so you can finally get ahead of the mess.

    Tools and Materials

    You’ll need a few items to organize your shed, including:

    Choosing the Right Storage System

    A storage system that works for one family may not work for the next. You’ll want to choose a system that helps you maximize space and organization in your shed. Nathan recommends using a track system for its versatility and strength, but there are several options available. Using a combination of these solutions can provide a well-rounded approach to shed organization.

    • Bins and containers can hold smaller items, and you can then store them on shelves to maximize space.
    • Hooks and hangers keep items, such as garden tools, ladders, and sports equipment, off the floor. You can use bike hooks to store bicycles vertically, and you can add magnetic strips for small metal tools.
    • Pegboards are perfect for modular organization, but they often can’t carry heavy loads.
    • Rolling carts are ideal for mobile storage.
    • Shelving units allow you to maximize vertical space, and you can adjust them to meet changing requirements. We recommend corrosion-resistant or rust-proof wire shelving for added durability, or you can opt for rivet shelving, which is sturdy and easy to assemble.
    • Wall-mounted track systems have customizable configurations to suit your specific needs. They’re able to handle heavy loads, such as bikes or large tools.

    How To Organize a Shed

    These steps walk you through everything you’ll need to do to clean out your shed and organize it once and for all.

    1. Clean and Empty the Shed

    Start by removing all items from your shed to provide a blank canvas. This allows you to assess the available space and better plan your organization strategy. 

    Once everything is out of the shed, sort through your belongings. Create separate piles for items to keep, donate, sell, or discard. You’ll also want to create separate piles for similar items. For example, keep your gardening tools in one pile and your sports gear in another.

    2. Assess Your Storage Needs

    Take stock of the items you plan to keep and consider their storage requirements. You’ll want to measure large items, such as bikes, lawn mowers, and ladders, and count the number of small tools and gardening supplies. Determine how much shelf space you’ll need for boxes and containers. 

    By understanding what will be going back into the shed, you can better determine which storage systems will work best for your needs.

    3. Locate Wall Studs

    When you’ve chosen your storage system and cleaned out the shed, you need to locate wall studs so you can hang heavy items. Incorrectly placing the system can cause damage to the wall, your items, or the system itself.

    Use a stud finder to locate the wall studs and mark the edges of each stud for accurate placement.

    4. Mount the Track System

    If you’re installing a wall-mounted track system, follow these steps:

    1. Determine the desired height for your track.
    2. Mark the wall at the appropriate height.
    3. Hold the track against the wall and use a level to make sure it’s straight.
    4. Secure the track to the wall studs using appropriate screws.
    5. Test the track’s stability before adding attachments.

    5. Add Shelves and Attachments

    Once the main track is installed:

    1. Attach shelf brackets to the track at desired intervals.
    2. Place shelves onto the brackets.
    3. Add hooks and other attachments to the track as needed.

    6. Use a Labeling System

    Create a labeling system to easily locate items in the future. You can label shelves or containers, use waterproof tags, or color-code for different categories. 

    7. Keep Up the Effort

    It’s easy to clutter up your shed or garage again. Maintaining your organized shed, though, can help you stay on top of the mess. Make plans to regularly declutter and remove unnecessary items. You’ll also want to make sure you’re returning anything you took out of the shed back to its designated spot.

    Tips for Shed Organization

    Different items present unique storage challenges. Here are some tips for organizing common shed contents:

    • Garden tools: Use wall-mounted tool racks or pegboards for hand tools. Install hooks or brackets for long-handed tools, such as rakes or shovels. Store garden accessories in labeled containers.
    • Hazardous materials: Store chemicals and paints in a locked cabinet and clearly label all items for safety.
    • Power tools: Use a workbench or shelves for larger power tools while storing smaller power tools in their original cases or dedicated toolboxes. Keep batteries and chargers together in a designated area.
    • Seasonal items: Use vacuumed-sealed bags for offseason clothing or bedding. Place items that are only needed annually on high shelves. Rotate seasonal decorations for easier access during the current season.
    • Sports equipment: Use ball claw racks or mesh bags for balls. Install hooks or racks for bats, rackets, and golf clubs. Store smaller items, including gloves and protective gear, in labeled bins.

    Our Conclusion

    By utilizing wall-mounted track systems, shelving units, and smart storage solutions, you can maximize your shed’s potential and keep your belongings organized and easily accessible. However, keeping a shed organized is an ongoing process, but one that will pay off in the long run.

    Tools

    _TOOL_Stud_Finder_iStock_478739705
    Stud finder
    _TOOL_Tape_Measure_iStock_139743818
    Tape measure
    _TOOL_Level_iStock_452107229
    Level
    _TOOL_Cordless_Drill_iStock_1184898581
    Drill driver

    Next Up In Sheds

    Mason Mark McCullough helps a homeowner connect their driveway to their front walk, matching materials and style for a timeless look.

    by Mark McCullough
    Experts walk through how to build a pea stone walkway.

    We may be compensated if you purchase through links on our website. Our team is committed to delivering honest, objective, and independent reviews on home products and services.

    More

    A pea stone walkway is a charming and functional addition to your outdoor space, creating a welcoming path that connects different areas of your property. This DIY project improves your home’s curb appeal and offers a practical solution for foot traffic.

    In this guide, we’ll walk you through the process of installing a pea stone walkway, drawing inspiration from a project completed by Ask This Old House mason Mark McCullough. In the video above, McCullough extends a homeowner’s existing walkway to connect with their driveway and shares his tips for a successful installation.

    Planning Your Pea Stone Walkway

    Before diving into the installation process, plan your walkway carefully. Think about the layout, gather your materials, and prepare the site. Good planning will help the installation go smoothly and give you a result that looks great with your home’s exterior.

    Choosing the Location and Layout

    When selecting the location for your pea stone walkway, think through several factors that will influence both its appearance and functionality. Natural foot traffic patterns should guide the path’s direction, creating a logical and accessible route. Account for existing landscaping features that the walkway should complement or avoid. Drainage is also key to keeping water from pooling on the path. Lastly, placing the walkway near your home’s entrance and driveway can make it more useful.

    Use landscape marking paint to outline the proposed path, then make sure it integrates well with your property’s overall design. You can also use a garden hose to shape the walkway and get a feel for how it will look.

    Gathering Materials and Tools

    Make sure you have all the materials you’ll need to build a strong and attractive walkway:

    • Base gravel: Supports the pea stone and provides drainage.
    • Bluestone pavers: An optional addition for a more defined and stable path.
    • Cement mix: Needed if you’re using mortar for the edging.
    • Cobblestones or edging materials: Used to define the walkway’s borders.
    • Landscape fabric: Prevents weed growth and aids in drainage.
    • Pea gravel: The primary material for the surface of the walkway.

    Tools you’ll need for the job include:

    • Hand tamper
    • Mason’s string
    • Plate compactor
    • Rakes
    • Rubber mallet
    • Shovels
    • Stakes
    • Wheelbarrow
    _TOOL_Pick_Axe_iStock_497543619
    Pick axe
    _TOOL_GardenRake_iStock_1164855552
    Rake
    _TOOL_Shovel_iStock_530005110
    Shovel
    _TOOL_Wheelbarrow_iStock_185330131
    Wheelbarrow
    _TOOL_Tamper_iStock_176042875
    Hand tamper
    _TOOL_Rubber_Mallet_iStock_185264500
    Rubber mallet

    Preparing the Site

    Here’s how to prep the area:

    • Excavation: Remove any existing grass and topsoil to a depth of 4–6 inches to create a stable foundation.
    • Leveling and drainage: Make sure the area is level and sloped so that water drains properly.
    • Utility location: Call your local utility locating service to mark any underground lines before you dig.

    Installing the Pea Stone Walkway

    With your site prepped and materials gathered, you’re ready to begin the installation process. Follow these steps to get a durable, long-lasting path.

    Step 1: Lay Out the Walkway and Remove Topsoil

    Start by using landscape marking paint to draw the rough layout and shape of your walkway on the grass. Once you’re happy with the design, remove the topsoil between the painted lines using a shovel or pick axe. Haul away the excess dirt with a wheelbarrow.

    Pro tip: Adding some curves or gentle slopes can make the walkway more interesting and help it blend into the landscape.

    Step 2: Compact the Soil and Install Mason’s Strings

    Use a plate compactor to pack down the soil firmly. You may need to go over the area a few times to get a solid base. Once the soil is compacted and smooth, drive stakes into each corner of the walkway area. Stretch mason string along the length of the walkway on both sides, checking that it’s taut and level at all corners.

    Step 3: Install Edging or Cobblestones

    If you’re using cobblestones for edging, mix cement and water in a wheelbarrow until it reaches an oatmeal-like consistency. Lay a thick bed of cement under each cobblestone, tapping them down with a rubber mallet until they’re level with the mason’s string. This helps define the walkway and keeps the pea stone in place.

    Step 4: Lay Landscape Fabric

    Cover the walkway area between the edging with landscape fabric, overlapping the seams by 6–12 inches to prevent any gaps as the fabric settles. Secure the fabric in place with a few handfuls of base stone. This layer prevents weed growth and helps improve drainage.

    Step 5: Add and Compact Base Gravel

    Pour base gravel over the landscape fabric, evenly spreading it with a rake to a depth of about two inches. Use the plate compactor to pack down the gravel firmly. Lightly spray the gravel with water while compacting it to help it settle. This base layer will give the walkway support and stability.

    Step 6: Install Pavers (Optional)

    If you’re adding pavers, carefully place them on top of the base gravel. Adjust their positions as needed, then use a rubber mallet to tap them down. You can add or remove the base stone underneath each paver to eliminate any rocking or wobbling.

    Step 7: Fill With Pea Stone

    With the edging and any pavers in place, fill the walkway with pea stone. Slightly overfill the area, then use a hand tamp to pack the stones down tightly and lock everything in place.

    Complementary Landscape Features for a Pea Stone Walkway

    To enhance the look and function of your pea stone walkway, you can add complementary features. For example, incorporating lighting along the edges can make the walkway safer, especially in the evening. Planting flowers or shrubs along the path adds color and texture, while garden sculptures or planters can add a personal touch.

    Maintaining Your Pea Stone Walkway

    Regular upkeep will keep your walkway looking great and working well for years. Here’s how to maintain it:

    • Cleaning: Clean the walkway occasionally with a leaf blower or garden hose to remove debris.
    • Depth maintenance: Add additional pea stone as needed to maintain the desired depth, preventing bare spots.
    • Stone distribution: Rake the stones periodically to keep them evenly distributed.
    • Weed control: Pull out any weeds that grow through the fabric to keep the walkway tidy.

    Next Up In Pathways & Sidewalks

    Plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey teaches host Kevin O’Connor about furnaces and why it’s important to maintain them properly.

    by Richard Trethewey

    Kevin O’Connor gets a primer on furnace maintenance from plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey. Richard first explains to Kevin how a furnace works before explaining the different checkpoints that an HVAC technician would use to check the furnace.

    After that, Richard shows Kevin the dangerous conditions that can exist if the furnace isn’t serviced by a professional at least once a year.

    Related

    The Best Firewood to Heat Your Home

    Furnaces are Fairly Simple Devices

    Furnaces are fairly simple devices. They operate by a blower pulling air into the furnace through the return side and pushing it out the supply side. As the air exits the furnace, it flows through a heat exchanger, which is essentially a sealed burner, and then leaves the furnace to flow throughout the system. But, as simple as they are, they require yearly maintenance.

    Heat Exchangers

    A heat exchanger is a burner inside a heating system’s airway in a sealed chamber. Gas enters the heat exchanger and ignites, heating the metal that makes up the chamber. The exhaust exits the unit through an exhaust pipe, all happening without mixing with the conditioned air.

    The conditioned air blows across the chamber, which the burner has heated, pulling heat energy from the heat exchanger. As it does, the temperature of the air rises and then disperses that heat energy into the home.

    These heat exchangers need to be maintained once a year to ensure that they’re working properly and safely. The technician will check the gas pressure at the supply and the pressure at the valve to ensure that there is the proper amount of pressure at the burners. They’ll also check the safety devices to make sure they’re functioning.

    They’ll also do a combustion test in the exhaust to make sure that the system is working properly and burning fuel efficiently and safely.

    Air Conditioning Coil

    Some furnaces are actually combination heating and air conditioning units. In addition to the heat exchanger, these models have air conditioning coils through which the air passes and cools. These units also need maintenance as their filters need changing.

    Many times, homeowners will remove a clogged filter and let the system run. This can be big trouble for an AC coil because these models have tiny fins that clog with dirt and hair easily. The coil can freeze and break in this case, so homeowners or service techs need to remove the gunk and grease with a fin comb or brush and coil cleaner.

    Instead, they should simply change the filter once a year to avoid unnecessarily damaging their unit.

    The Dangers of Not Maintaining a Furnace

    There are actual dangers of not maintaining a furnace. For one, the unit will run less efficiently and the space will take longer to reach comfortable levels. But, more importantly, the unit can become unsafe.

    A furnace that hasn’t been maintained properly is susceptible to exhaust issues or cracked heat exchangers. A cracked heat exchanger will allow carbon monoxide-laden exhaust to mix with the fresh air in the home, possibly creating a very dangerous situation.

    And this is a situation that a furnace technician would pick up on right away during regular maintenance when they test the supply air and the exhaust gasses for safety.

    Resources

    Richard emphasizes the importance of a yearly service call for furnaces and AC units and what
    to expect from technicians when they come.

    Next Up In Heating & Cooling

    Vapor and moisture barriers help control moisture and keep mold and corrosion at bay.

    by Mel Childs
    Vapor barrier on a house under construction
    iStock

    Moisture barriers are a key part of home construction. A moisture barrier, also called a vapor barrier or vapor retarder, is a material that stops water and moisture from passing through walls, floors, and other parts of a building. These barriers can come in different forms, like sheets, coatings, and membranes, and they’re categorized based on their permeability—how much moisture they allow through. Moisture barriers help protect your home against water damage and mold growth. In this guide, we’ll discuss moisture barrier types, where they go, and how to install them. 

    Types of Moisture Barriers

    Moisture barriers fall into three main categories based on their permeability, as measured in units called “perms.” The lower the perm rating, the less moisture the barrier allows through.

    Class I Barriers

    Class I barriers are the most impermeable, with a rating of 0.1 perms or less. They include materials like polyethylene sheets, rubber membranes, sheet metal, and glass, and they’re best for cold or humid climates.

    Class II Barriers

    Class II barriers are semi-permeable, allowing some moisture to pass through. They have a perm rating between greater than 0.1 and 1.0. Examples include 30-pound asphalt-coated paper, bitumen-coated kraft paper, plywood, and certain vapor retarder paints. They’re suitable for a range of climates and uses.

    Class III Barriers

    Class III barriers are the most permeable, with a perm rating between greater than 1.0 and 10.0. They include brick, gypsum board, concrete block, and house wrap. They’re typically used in milder climates or as part of a well-thought-out moisture management plan.

    The Importance of Moisture Barriers in Home Construction

    Moisture barriers protect your home from moisture-related problems. Too much moisture can wreak havoc on a home’s structure, leading to wood rot, metal corrosion, and cracked concrete. A good moisture barrier can help prevent these issues and extend the life of your home.

    Mold thrives in damp conditions, and if moisture builds up inside walls or other hidden areas, it can lead to health problems and costly repairs. Moisture barriers help keep these areas dry, reducing the risk of mold growth.

    Where To Install Moisture Barriers

    Here are some key areas where moisture barriers are typically installed:

    • Basement floors: A moisture barrier is a must for basement floors in contact with the ground. Place a polyethylene sheet under the concrete slab to stop moisture from seeping up.
    • Crawl spaces: Moisture barriers in crawl spaces prevent ground moisture from seeping into the house. Install a heavy-duty polyethylene sheet over the entire crawl space floor, extending it up the foundation walls by about 6 inches.
    • Exterior walls: In exterior walls, moisture barriers keep outdoor moisture out and prevent indoor moisture from condensing within the wall. In cold climates, the barrier goes on the warm (interior) side of the insulation. In hot, humid climates, it’s placed on the cool (exterior) side.
    • Under flooring: When installing wood flooring over concrete, a moisture barrier protects the wood from moisture damage. Use a suitable underlayment or moisture barrier designed for this specific application.

    How To Choose the Right Moisture Barrier

    Choosing the right moisture barrier for your project depends on several factors:

    • Climate: Your local climate plays a big role in what kind of barrier you need. In cold climates, go with less permeable barriers (Class I or II) on the warm side of the insulation. In hot, humid climates, opt for more permeable barriers (Class II or III) on the cool side.
    • Material compatibility: Make sure the barrier works well with the materials it will be touching. Some barriers might react poorly with certain building materials. For example, certain plastic barriers could break down when in contact with chemically treated concrete.
    • Permeability: Choose a barrier with the right perm rating for your project. A lower perm rating isn’t always better—allowing some moisture movement is sometimes beneficial for your home’s overall moisture management.

    Moisture Barrier Installation Techniques

    Proper installation is key for moisture barriers. Follow these general guidelines.

    • Preparing the surface: Before installing the barrier, clean and dry the surface and fix any damage to the structure underneath.
    • Sealing seams and edges: If you’re using sheet-type barriers, overlap seams by at least 6 inches and seal them with tape or adhesive. Pay extra attention to edges, corners, and where different materials meet.
    • Addressing penetrations: Carefully seal around any penetrations through the barrier, such as electrical outlets, plumbing pipes, or windows. Use specialized tapes or sealants designed for this purpose.

    The Role of Moisture Barriers in Energy Efficiency

    Moisture barriers can help with your home’s energy efficiency by keeping moisture out and maintaining steady indoor temperatures. This reduces the strain on your heating and cooling systems and helps prevent drafts and cold spots.

    Insulation Performance

    Moisture barriers help keep insulation dry. Wet insulation doesn’t do its job well, leading to higher energy bills and less comfort. By keeping insulation dry, moisture barriers help you save on energy costs and stay comfortable.

    Air Quality

    A dry indoor environment means better air quality. High humidity can lead to dust mites and other allergens. A well-installed moisture barrier helps maintain healthy humidity levels inside.

    Building Codes and Moisture Barriers

    Always install moisture barriers according to building codes. Following these codes not only keeps you on the right side of the law but also helps you get the best results for your project

    Different areas have specific rules for moisture barrier installation based on climate. Check your local building codes to make sure you’re using the right barrier in the right place.

    If you’re unsure about how to install your moisture barrier, ask a professional for advice. They can guide you in the right direction and help you choose the most suitable materials and installation techniques for your needs.

    Common Mistakes To Avoid When Installing Moisture Barriers

    Be aware of these common pitfalls when installing moisture barriers:

    • Improper sealing: Failing to seal seams, edges, and penetrations properly can create weak points in your moisture barrier system, allowing moisture to bypass the barrier entirely.
    • Inconsistent overlapping: Make sure to overlap seams uniformly to avoid gaps that could compromise the barrier.
    • Incorrect placement: Installing the barrier on the wrong side of the insulation can lead to moisture problems. Consider your climate and follow local building codes for proper placement.
    • Using the wrong barrier type: Choosing a barrier that’s too impermeable or too permeable for your application can cause moisture to become trapped or allow too much moisture to pass through.

    Enhancing the Longevity of Moisture Barriers

    Maintenance and regular inspections can extend the life of your moisture barriers. Periodically inspect visible portions of your moisture barrier for signs of damage or deterioration. Pay special attention to areas prone to moisture issues, such as basements and crawl spaces.

    If you notice any tears, gaps, or other damage to your moisture barrier, address it right away to prevent moisture problems from developing.

    Moisture Barriers vs. Vapor Barriers

    While the terms “moisture barrier” and “vapor barrier” are often used interchangeably, there are subtle differences between the two. Moisture barriers block both liquid water and water vapor, while vapor barriers focus on blocking water vapor only. 

    Many products do both jobs, but you should know what your barrier is designed to do and pick the right one for your project. When deciding between moisture and vapor barriers, think about what your project needs. Consider the climate, the materials you’re using, and the nature of your construction to make the best choice.

    Next Up In Walls

    Keep your home in tip top shape by tackling these maintenance tasks this season.

    by Chuck Bickford
    Winter cookies being placed into an oven.
    iStock

    As temperatures drop and winter approaches, you’ll need to prepare your home for the challenges that cold weather brings. From sealing air leaks to preventing water damage, there are numerous tasks homeowners should tackle to ensure their property remains safe, comfortable, and energy-efficient throughout the winter months. This guide will walk you through essential winter home maintenance tasks, helping you protect your investment and stay cozy all season long.

    Preparing Your Home’s Exterior for Cold Weather

    Winter can be harsh on your home’s exterior, but with proper preparation, you can minimize potential damage and keep your home in top shape. Here are key areas to focus on:

    Pinpoint and Plug Air Leaks Before Winter

    Now that temperatures are dipping, search for spots where your home is losing its heat.

    Check for drafts

    Rolls of tape to be used to shore up air leaks.
    Dana Schiffman

    Sealing Air Leaks and Drafts

    Air leaks can significantly impact your home’s energy efficiency and comfort. To identify problem areas:

    1. Wet one hand and run it around windows, doors, and heating duct joints. The moisture will make your skin more sensitive to cold air.
    2. Alternatively, light a stick of incense and observe if the smoke changes direction near potential leak points.

    Once you’ve identified leaks, use adhesive-backed EPDM rubber or foam weatherstripping to seal gaps around windows and doors. For drafty door bottoms, add an insulating sweep. Don’t forget to patch leaky seams in ductwork with HVAC foil tape.

    Preparing Your Home’s Exterior for Cold Weather

    Cleaning and Repairing Gutters

    Clogged gutters can lead to ice dams and water damage. Before winter sets in:

    1. Remove leaves and debris from gutters and downspouts.
    2. Check for loose or damaged sections and repair as needed.
    3. Ensure downspouts direct water at least 5 feet away from your home’s foundation.

    Consider installing gutter guards to reduce future maintenance needs and prevent clogs.

    Protecting Your Driveway from Ice Damage

    Water seeping into cracks can freeze and expand, causing significant damage to asphalt driveways. To prevent this:

    1. Clean out any loose debris from existing cracks.
    2. Use a rope-like asphalt crack filler to bridge small cracks.
    3. For deeper divots (over 1 inch), use a ready-mix blacktop repair compound. Overfill by about 1 inch and tamp level with the surrounding surface.

    Taking these steps now can prevent costly repairs come spring.

    Inspecting and Repairing Roof Shingles

    Roof damage is another concern during winter. Visually inspect your shingles for any signs of damage, such as curling, cracking, or missing shingles. Repairing these issues before snow hits can prevent leaks and prolonged damage to the roof’s structure. Be sure to check the flashing around chimneys and vents to ensure it is secure and watertight.

    Ideally, hire a professional to conduct a thorough inspection if you feel uncomfortable checking the roof yourself.

    Enhancing Indoor Comfort and Energy Efficiency for Winter

    Keeping your home warm and energy-efficient is a top priority during winter. Here’s how to optimize your indoor environment:

    Evaluating and Upgrading Attic Insulation

    Proper attic insulation is crucial for maintaining a comfortable home temperature and reducing energy costs. Check your attic for:

    1. Compressed or fallen insulation, leaving bare spots.
    2. Inadequate insulation thickness (R-19 batts should be upgraded to at least R-38, or R-49 in northern regions).

    Use canned urethane spray foam to insulate around pipes and cables where they enter the attic. 

    Optimizing Your Heating System

    To ensure your system is ready:

    1. Schedule a professional HVAC inspection and tune-up.
    2. Replace air filters monthly during the heating season.
    3. Clear any obstructions from vents and radiators to improve airflow.

    Consider upgrading to a programmable or smart thermostat to better control your home’s temperature and reduce energy costs.

    Reversing Ceiling Fans for Winter

    A simple yet effective way to improve your home’s heating efficiency is to reverse the direction of your ceiling fans. As Kevin O’Connor, This Old House Host, advises: “One easy way to ease your heating bill: Reverse the direction of your ceiling fan, so it runs clockwise, which will push down and recirculate the warm air that collects at the ceiling. “

    Checking Windows and Doors

    Another critical area for maintaining indoor comfort is ensuring the integrity of your windows and doors. Check for condensation between window panes, which can indicate broken seals. Repair any damaged weather stripping around doors to prevent drafts. For an extra layer of insulation, consider using thermal window treatments, such as heavy curtains or cellular shades, which can significantly reduce heat loss.

    Evaluate attic insulation

    Old insulation may be compressed or have fallen out of framing bays, leaving bare spots. Thin R-19 batts should be upgraded to at least R-38 batts, or R-49 if you live in northern regions. Use canned urethane spray foam to insulate around pipes and cables where they enter the attic.

    Schedule an energy audit

    Find out if your local utility offers audits for free or at a low cost, or partners with a local company to do them. Prices range from about $100 for a walk-through and bill assessment to an average of about $400 for a more thorough investigation. Some utilities also offer free or discounted air-sealing materials and rebates for energy-saving upgrades such as insulation, air sealing, and energy-efficient appliances. For more information on energy audits, go to: energy.gov/energysaver/home-energy-assessments.

    One easy way to ease your heating bill: Reverse the direction of your ceiling fan, so it runs clockwise, which will push down and recirculate the warm air that collects at the ceiling. –Kevin O’Connor, This Old House Host

    Essential Appliance and System Maintenance to Do for Winter

    Proper maintenance of your home’s appliances and systems can prevent breakdowns and improve efficiency during the winter months.

    Cleaning and Servicing Your Oven

    Before the holiday cooking season begins, give your oven a thorough cleaning. Try this safe and effective method:

    1. Mix a cup of baking soda with enough white vinegar to create a paste.
    2. Apply the paste to the inside of the oven with a chip brush.
    3. Let it sit overnight, then wipe clean with a damp sponge or nylon scrubby.

    Checking Your Water Heater

    A well-maintained water heater ensures hot water throughout winter. To keep it running efficiently:

    1. Flush the tank to remove sediment buildup.
    2. Check the pressure relief valve for proper operation.
    3. Inspect for any signs of corrosion or leaks.

    Consider insulating your water heater and hot water pipes to improve energy efficiency and reduce heat loss.

    Inspecting Your HVAC System

    Regular HVAC maintenance is crucial for winter comfort. In addition to professional servicing:

    1. Replace air filters monthly during heavy use periods.
    2. Clean air vents and returns to ensure proper airflow.
    3. Check for any unusual noises or odors that may indicate a problem.

    Addressing HVAC issues early can prevent costly breakdowns during the coldest months.

    Maintaining Your Fireplace and Chimney

    If your home has a fireplace, regular maintenance is crucial for safe usage during winter. Have a professional inspect and clean the chimney to remove any creosote buildup, which can be a fire hazard. Ensure the flue damper opens, closes, and seals properly. For added safety, install a chimney cap to prevent debris, rain, or animals from entering your chimney.

    Checking Your Water Heater

    A well-maintained water heater ensures hot water throughout winter. To keep it running efficiently:

    A water heater ready for use in winter.
    Courtesy Moen
    1. Flush the tank to remove sediment buildup.
    2. Check the pressure relief valve for proper operation.
    3. Inspect for any signs of corrosion or leaks.

    Consider insulating your water heater and hot water pipes to improve energy efficiency and reduce heat loss.

    Inspecting Your HVAC System

    Regular HVAC maintenance is crucial for winter comfort. In addition to professional servicing:

    1. Replace air filters monthly during heavy use periods.
    2. Clean air vents and returns to ensure proper airflow.
    3. Check for any unusual noises or odors that may indicate a problem.

    Addressing HVAC issues early can prevent costly breakdowns during the coldest months.

    Maintaining Your Fireplace and Chimney

    If your home has a fireplace, regular maintenance is crucial for safe usage during winter. Have a professional inspect and clean the chimney to remove any creosote buildup, which can be a fire hazard. Ensure the flue damper opens, closes, and seals properly. For added safety, install a chimney cap to prevent debris, rain, or animals from entering your chimney.

    Preparing for Power Outages and Winter Emergencies

    Winter storms can lead to power outages and other emergencies. Being prepared is key to staying safe and comfortable.

    Installing a Manual Transfer Switch for Generators

    If you have a portable generator, a manual transfer switch allows for safer, more convenient power during outages. This device:

    1. Connects to your main breaker panel.
    2. Allows you to power essential circuits by flipping a switch.
    3. Eliminates the need for potentially hazardous extension cords.
    A generator with a manual transfer switch.
    Courtesy Generac Power Systems

    Always run fuel-burning generators outdoors to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning.

    Creating an Emergency Kit

    A well-stocked emergency kit is always a good idea for winter preparedness. Include:

    1. Non-perishable food and water for at least three days.
    2. Flashlights and extra batteries.
    3. First aid supplies and necessary medications.
    4. Warm clothing and blankets.

    Store your kit in an easily accessible location and review its contents annually.

    Understanding Carbon Monoxide Risks

    With heightened heating during winter, ensure you understand the dangers of carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning. Install CO detectors on every floor of your home, particularly near sleeping areas. Regularly test and replace the batteries as needed. If your detector sounds or you experience symptoms like headaches, dizziness, or nausea, leave the house immediately and seek fresh air.

    Outdoor Winter Safety Measures

    Preparing your outdoor areas for winter is crucial for safety and property protection.

    Stocking Up on Ice Melt and Sand

    To prevent slips and falls on icy surfaces, This Old House Mason Mark McCullough advises: “To prevent slipping on icy asphalt driveways or granite walkways, spread them with a 50-50 mix of rock salt and sand. The salt will help melt the ice, while the sand will put traction underfoot. Just keep the salt away from concrete, mortared masonry joints, and vegetation-it will damage them. “

    Preparing Snow Removal Equipment

    Before the first snowfall:

    1. Service your snow blower and ensure it starts easily.
    2. Check shovels for cracks or wear and replace if necessary.
    3. Stock up on fuel for snow removal equipment.

    Having your equipment ready will make snow removal less of a chore when the time comes.

    Protecting Outdoor Furniture and Fixtures

    To preserve your outdoor items:

    1. Clean and store patio furniture in a dry place.
    2. Drain and store garden hoses to prevent freezing and cracking.
    3. Wrap vulnerable plants or bring potted plants indoors.

    Taking these steps will help ensure your outdoor spaces are ready for spring.

    Building a Winter Car Kit

    An often-overlooked area of winter preparation is ensuring your vehicle is ready for the season. Assemble a winter car kit that includes items such as an ice scraper, shovel, blankets, extra warm clothes, non-perishable snacks, and a first aid kit. This preparation can be crucial for safety if you find yourself stuck in winter conditions away from home.

    Our Conclusion

    Winter home maintenance is crucial for protecting your property and ensuring comfort throughout the cold months. By addressing air leaks, maintaining your heating system, preventing water damage, and preparing for emergencies, you’ll be well-equipped to face whatever winter brings.

    Remember that while many of these tasks can be DIY projects, don’t hesitate to call in professionals for more complex jobs or if you’re unsure about any aspect of winter home maintenance. With proper preparation, you can enjoy a warm, safe, and efficient home all winter long.

    Next Up In Heating & Cooling

    Are you a Norm superfan? Enter for a chance to win the ultimate Norm fan bundle.

    by This Old House
    Norm_2400px

    Hi, Norm fans!

    To celebrate the upcoming The House That Norm Built Premiere on October 3rd (with early access to Insiders on September 29th), one lucky winner will receive the ultimate Norm fan bundle, including limited edition This Old House collectibles, a signed headshot, signed merchandise, and more! Check your local TV listings and enter below.

    The grand prize winner will receive:

    • One (1) The House That Norm Built Hat
    • One (1) signed framed Norm headshot
    • One (1) signed This Old House mug
    • One (1) TOH engraved notebook
    • One (1) TOH carpenters pencil
    • One (1) Norm book

    Official Rules

    NORM GIVEAWAY: NO PURCHASE IS NECESSARY TO ENTER OR WIN. Entries must be received between 12:00:01 AM 9/19/22 and 11:59:59 PM ET 10/9/22. Open to legal residents of the 50 United States or the District of Columbia and Canada (excluding Quebec) 18 years of age or older. See Official Rules. Prize awarded: One (1) The House That Norm Built Hat, One (1) signed framed Norm headshot, One (1) book, One (1) signed This Old House mug, one (1) notebook, and one (1) carpenters’s pencil. Approximate value: $99.99

    Next Up In Sweepstakes

    Sure, you’ll never have to come home to a dark house again, but smart lighting is great for home security, monitoring energy usage, and more.

    by Christopher Null
    A house lit with smart lighting.
    Sterling E. Stevens/Jessica Bell Handyman Architecture

    We may be compensated if you purchase through links on our website. Our team is committed to delivering honest, objective, and independent reviews on home products and services.

    More

    Smart lighting has evolved from a novelty to a practical tool that enhances our daily lives in numerous ways. From improving home security to creating the perfect ambiance, these intelligent devices offer a range of benefits that go far beyond simple illumination. This article explores five innovative uses for smart lighting and provides guidance on choosing the right devices for your home.

    5 Ways To Use Smart Lighting

    Smart lighting offers numerous possibilities for enhancing your home’s functionality and atmosphere. Below are five clever applications.

    Protect Your Home While on Vacation

    Smart lighting can be an effective tool for home security, particularly when you’re away. Many smart devices offer automation features that allow you to schedule lights to turn on and off, creating the illusion that someone is home. The Ecobee Switch+ goes a step further with a dedicated vacation mode that randomizes light patterns to add realism.

    For a temporary solution, consider the Switchmate, a magnetic smart switch that easily attaches to existing light switches. Though it lacks a specific vacation mode, you can program it to operate lights on a schedule during your absence, providing a layer of security.

    Track Your Power Consumption

    Smart plugs with energy monitoring capabilities, like the Emporia, allow you to track the power usage of individual appliances in real time. This information can help you identify energy-hungry devices and make informed decisions about your electricity consumption.

    For a more comprehensive solution, the iDevices Wall Switch monitors energy usage for multiple light fixtures and ceiling fans, providing valuable insights into your home’s overall energy consumption. Understanding your energy use can lead to more efficient home management.

    Set Up Alerts Around the House

    High-quality smart bulbs, such as the Philips Hue E26 and LIFX Color, offer vibrant colors and can be integrated with other smart home devices through platforms such as If This Then That (IFTTT). This integration allows for creative alert systems, including:

    • Connecting smart bulbs to moisture sensors to detect water leaks
    • Creating custom alerts for various home automation scenarios
    • Linking lights to video doorbells for visual notifications when someone’s at the door

    These setups enhance both functionality and safety within your smart home ecosystem, providing peace of mind and convenience.

    Tailor Lighting to How You Use the Room

    Smart bulbs excel in multipurpose spaces, allowing you to adjust lighting to suit different daily activities. For example, in a home office that doubles as a gym, you can program lights to mimic natural daylight during work hours and switch to energizing bright lights for workouts.

    Some smart bulbs, such as the Connected Max Smart LED bulbs by Cree Lighting, feature a “follow the sun” mode that automatically adjusts light intensity to match outdoor conditions. This can help maintain a natural circadian rhythm and improve overall well-being, making your space more comfortable and adaptive.

    For entertainment spaces, certain smart bulbs can sync with your TV or music system to create an immersive atmosphere. Philips Hue offers this feature, allowing lights to change color and intensity in real time based on the content you’re watching or listening to, enriching your experience.

    “Use smart bulbs in light fixtures that don’t have dimmers already. Smart bulbs have their own built-in dimming technology, and most of them won’t work correctly if they aren’t operating at full power.”—Ross Trethewey, TOH Home Technology Expert

    Create a Do-It-Yourself Motion Sensor

    Smart lighting offers a convenient alternative to traditional motion-sensor floodlights, eliminating the need for complex electrical work. The Philips Hue Outdoor Sensor is a versatile, battery-powered option that can be placed anywhere to trigger nearby smart lights when motion is detected, enhancing both safety and convenience.

    Which Lighting Device Where?

    Smart lighting systems typically work with your home’s Wi-Fi network, making them easy to install and control. However, it’s essential to ensure your Wi-Fi signal is strong enough to support these devices, especially for outdoor installations. Conduct a speed test to verify your network’s capabilities before investing in smart lighting. If your upload speed is less than 5 Mbps, consider upgrading your router or adding a range extender to improve connectivity.

    When setting up smart lighting in your home, it’s vital to choose the right type of device for each application. Here’s a guide to help you select the most appropriate smart lighting solution for different areas of your home:

    Smart Plugs

    A smart plug
    Courtesy of Emporia

    Best for: Controlling individual lamps, night lights, and small appliances like coffee makers, dehumidifiers, and air purifiers. Smart plugs are easy to install and offer remote control via smartphone apps, making them a versatile option for various devices.

    Smart Switches

    Smart light switch
    Courtesy of iDevices

    Best for: Managing multiple light fixtures and ceiling fans on a single circuit. Smart switches are more cost-effective and reliable than using multiple smart bulbs in rooms with numerous light sources, such as kitchens or living rooms, providing a unified control method.

    Many smart switches also function as dimmers, providing greater control over your lighting. Installation requires some electrical knowledge, but they typically take 30–45 minutes to set up and offer significant convenience and functionality.

    Smart Bulbs

    smart light bulb
    Courtesy of LIFX

    Best for: Adjusting brightness, color temperature, and hue in individual light fixtures. Smart bulbs offer the most flexibility in terms of lighting customization and are easy to install in existing fixtures, allowing personalized lighting in any room.

    Enhancing Home Automation With Smart Lighting

    Smart lighting can play a role in creating a more automated and efficient home environment. Here are some additional ways to integrate smart lighting into your home automation system:

    • Geofencing: Set up your smart lights to turn on or off automatically when you leave or return home using your smartphone’s location, providing seamless automation.
    • Scene creation: To enhance your living experience, design custom lighting scenes for different activities or moods, such as “movie night” or “dinner party. “
    • Sunrise and sunset triggers: Program your lights to adjust based on natural light cycles, improving your home’s energy efficiency and aligning with your daily routine.
    • Voice control integration: Connect your smart lighting to voice assistants such as Amazon Alexa or Google Home for hands-free control, enhancing convenience.

    By incorporating these features, you can create a more responsive and personalized lighting experience throughout your home, adding both convenience and aesthetic appeal.

    Next Up In Lighting

    Proper insulation is the best way to maximize comfort and minimize energy bills. Here are some common types.

    by Max Alexander
    A worker in a protective mask and gloves installing rolls of fiberglass insulation, one of the common types of insulation, in an attic space.
    iStock

    Proper insulation maximizes comfort and minimizes energy bills in your home. As This Old House general contractor Tom Silva says, “It’s the wisest way to invest that I know of. A well-insulated house will make you more comfortable in every season. And it’s quieter, too.”

    Our guide explores the various types of insulation available, their benefits, and how to choose the right option for your home. We’ll also cover proper installation techniques, common mistakes to avoid, and ways to enhance your home’s energy efficiency through insulation.

    Related

    All About Insulation

    Common Types of Insulation Materials

    There are several common types of insulation materials, each with its own advantages and application methods. We explore the most popular options below. 

    Fiberglass Insulation

    Fiberglass batts are the most common type of insulation in U.S. homes. They’re inexpensive and quick to install, making them a popular choice for professionals and do-it-yourself (DIY) enthusiasts.

    Pros:

    • Affordable
    • Easy to install
    • Predictable R-value when not compressed

    Cons:

    • Difficult to fit around obstacles without leaving gaps
    • Requires a vapor barrier in most climates
    • Can irritate the skin and lungs during installation

    Silva recommends using unfaced batts covered in plastic with all seams taped shut rather than relying on batts with attached kraft paper facing for vapor protection.

    A diagram labeling the different layers of insulation inside the roof of a house.
    Ian Worpole

    Foam Insulation

    Foam insulation, particularly low-density polyurethane spray foam, is Silva’s preferred insulation. It offers several benefits compared to traditional insulation materials.

    Pros:

    • Forms an airtight seal with studs and sheathing
    • Flexes to accommodate seasonal wood movement
    • Doesn’t need a separate vapor barrier

    Cons:

    • More expensive than fiberglass
    • Requires professional installation
    • Must be protected from fire with drywall or plaster

    While the initial cost of spray foam is higher, its superior performance can lead to long-term savings through reduced heating and cooling costs.

    Diagram labeling the different types and layers of insulation in a home.
    Ian Worpole

    Cellulose Insulation

    Cellulose insulation uses recycled paper products, primarily newspaper. It’s treated with boron compounds for fire and pest resistance.

    Pros:

    • Eco-friendly (made from recycled materials)
    • Good sound insulation properties
    • Can be blown into existing walls without major renovation

    Cons:

    • Can settle over time, reducing effectiveness
    • May absorb moisture if not properly installed
    • Requires specialized equipment for installation

    Mineral Wool Insulation

    Mineral wool insulation, also called rock wool or slag wool, is made from recycled materials such as blast furnace slag and basalt.

    Pros:

    • Fire-resistant
    • Excellent sound insulation
    • Moisture-resistant

    Cons:

    • More expensive than fiberglass
    • Can be irritating to the skin and lungs during installation
    • Heavier than other insulation types

    Specialized Insulation Options

    In addition to the common insulation types, several specialized options are available that may work for specific applications or homeowner preferences.

    Cotton Batts Insulation

    Cotton batts made from recycled denim offer an eco-friendly alternative to traditional insulation materials.

    Pros:

    • No-itch installation
    • Made from recycled materials
    • Treated with borates for fire and insect resistance

    Cons:

    • More expensive than fiberglass
    • Lower R-value per inch than some alternatives
    • May require a vapor barrier

    Radiant Barriers

    While not technically insulation, radiant barriers can help keep houses cool by reflecting thermal radiation. They’re particularly effective in warm climates.

    Pros:

    • Lowers attic temperatures up to 30 degrees
    • Effective in warm climates
    • Relatively easy to install in attics

    Cons:

    • Less useful in cold climates
    • Requires proper installation to be effective
    • May interfere with cell phone or Wi-Fi signals

    Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) Insulation

    XPS is a rigid foam insulation with excellent moisture resistance and high R-value per inch.

    Pros:

    • High R-value per inch (R-5)
    • Excellent moisture resistance
    • Maintains R-value over time

    Cons:

    • Must be protected from solvents and sunlight
    • Flammable and requires fire protection
    • More expensive than some alternatives

    Choosing the Right Insulation for Your Home

    Selecting the appropriate insulation for your home involves weighing several factors to get the right balance between performance and cost.

    Factors To Consider Picking Insulation

    When choosing insulation, consider the following:

    • R-value requirements for your climate zone
    • Installation location (walls, attic, basement, etc.)
    • Budget constraints
    • DIY vs. professional installation
    • Environmental concerns

    Climate Considerations for Insulation

    Your local climate plays a big role in what makes the best insulation for your home. Higher R-values are generally needed in colder climates, while home insulation helps reduce energy bills by keeping heat out in warmer climates.

    Insulation Budget Constraints

    While higher-quality insulation materials offer better performance, they also have a higher price tag. When weighing the initial cost of insulation, consider the long-term energy savings.

    Proper Insulation Placement

    Proper insulation placement throughout your home creates a continuous thermal envelope.

    Attic Insulation

    The attic is one of the most important areas to insulate. It can account for substantial heat loss during winter and a lot of heat gain in summer. When insulating an attic, make sure you do it properly to prevent moisture buildup.

    Wall Insulation

    Properly insulated walls maintain a comfortable indoor temperature. You can add blown-in insulation to an existing home without major renovations.

    Basement and Crawl Space Insulation

    Insulating basements and crawl spaces can significantly improve your home’s energy efficiency. The best way to insulate an existing concrete block wall is often to use foam board or spray foam insulation.

    Installation Techniques and Best Practices

    You’ll have to install your insulation correctly to achieve its rated R-value for maximum energy efficiency. A poor installation can reduce the insulation’s effectiveness and potentially lead to other issues like moisture buildup.

    DIY Installation Tips

    Take these steps for a DIY installation:

    • Wear appropriate protective gear
    • Measure carefully and cut the insulation to fit snugly
    • Avoid compressing insulation, which reduces its effectiveness
    • Seal all air leaks before installing insulation
    • Check for ventilation in attics and crawl spaces

    When To Hire a Professional

    Consider hiring a professional for the following applications:

    • Spray foam installations
    • Blown-in insulation
    • Complex or hard-to-reach areas
    • Large-scale insulation projects

    Professional installers have the experience and equipment to ensure proper installation and maximum effectiveness.

    Common Insulation Mistakes To Avoid

    Avoiding these common mistakes helps your insulation perform as intended:

    • Compressed insulation: Compressing fiberglass batts reduces their R-value. Batts should fit snugly without being crammed into spaces.
    • Gaps and air leaks: Even small gaps can significantly reduce insulation effectiveness. Seal all air leaks before installing insulation and ensure complete coverage.
    • Improper vapor barrier usage: Incorrect use of vapor barriers can trap moisture, leading to mold and rot. In most climates, vapor barriers should face the interior in northern, heating climates and the exterior in humid southern climates.

    Next Up In Insulation

    Filed under:

    Insider

    Mark explains finishes for brick and concrete; Jenn shows how to maintain a small backyard pond; Tom builds a three-legged Demilune table.

    by Ask This Old House TV

    Host Kevin O’Connor meets mason Mark McCullough at the shop to discuss masonry finishes. After Mark explains when and the reasons why such a durable material needs sealing, he walks Kevin O’Connor through the process. He states it’s crucial to repair the masonry first, then he wets the walls and applies a detergent. Finally, he applies the sealer.

    After discussing the surfaces to seal and those that shouldn’t be sealed, the two discuss the process of changing the look of masonry. Mark shows Kevin some stains and explains how they work and why they’re better than paint in most cases.

    Next, landscape contractor, Jenn Nawada takes us on a house call to help a homeowner clean up their backyard pond. After assessing the pond and noticing the amount of algae, Jenn thinks calling in an expert for help is in order.

    Jenn, the expert, and the homeowner get to work removing the fish and draining the pond. After adding some lights, changing filter elements, and adding some helpful bacteria, they can get the pond back up and running before adding the fish. Next, they work together to clean the pond and fix some fallen stones.

    Finally, Kevin meets general contractor Tom Silva back at the shop for a woodworking project: making a demilune table. After showing Kevin an example he built in shop class, the two get to work building the new table.

    First, Tom shows Kevin how to create a scale model of the table. Next, they use a jig Tom designed to glue the curved apron. Then, they use another one of Tom’s jigs to cut tapered legs. Using yet another jig, the two cut the tabletop with a router and then cut slots into the backside of the apron. Finally, Tom slides clips into the slots and secures the tabletop for a finished project.

    Masonry Finishes for Brick and Concrete

    Mark and Kevin discuss masonry finishes for brick, stucco, stone, concrete, and cinder block. Mark doesn’t recommend painting masonry. He explains that paint creates a barrier that doesn’t allow the masonry work to breathe, resulting in a build-up of damage causing moisture. Instead of paint, Mark recommends using masonry stains which are available in a variety of colors.

    Where to find it?

    Masonry stains can be sourced online and in your local home center.

    How to Maintain a Backyard Pond

    Landscape contractor, Jenn Nawada takes us on a house call to help a homeowner clean up their backyard pond. After assessing the pond and noticing the amount of algae, Jenn thinks calling in an expert for help is in order. They remove the fish and drain the pond. After adding lights, changing filters, and adding some helpful bacteria, they get the pond back up and running before adding the fish.

    Where to find it?

    Cleaning the pond required a large tank area to drain the water, a power washer to clean the stones, and a new filter for the spillway. These items can be located at most pond supply stores and some landscape supply stores.

    Expert assistance with this segment was provided by Fred Pape, New England Aquatic Landscaping, and Forever Green Landscaping, Inc.

    Build It | Demilune Table

    Kevin O’Connor meets general contractor Tom Silva back at the shop for a woodworking project: making a demilune table. After showing Kevin an example he built in shop class, the two get to work building the new table.

    Original Air Date: July 28, 2022, Season 43; Ep. 38 23:43

    Next Up In Season 20 - Ask This Old House

    We rank the Best Choice Pre-Lit Snow-Flocked Pine Tree as the best artificial Christmas tree, followed by the National Tree Co. Pre-Lit Carolina Pine Tree.

    by Stephanie Koncewicz, Manager, Digital Media

    Next Up In Living Rooms

    From powerful essentials to giftable gadgets, you can find something for everyone on your holiday list.

    by Stephanie Koncewicz, Manager, Digital Media

    Next Up In Shop

    by This Old House Reviews Team

    We may be compensated if you purchase through links on our website. Our team is committed to delivering honest, objective, and independent reviews on home products and services.

    More

    Black Friday sales on Amazon now span over a full week, delivering unbeatable deals—especially on home improvement products. This year’s sales feature major markdowns on smart home tech, outdoor storage, and more to help you create a cleaner, smarter, and more functional space.

    With prices dropping as much as 53%, this guide helps you find the best deals on all things home throughout Black Friday week. Make sure to browse our curated sections on smart devices, outdoor gear, and decor to make the most of every markdown.

    Ring Doorbell and Floodlight Bundle

    Check Price

    Govee 99-Foot Christmas String Lights

    Check Price

    Emeril Lagasse French Door Air Fryer

    Check Price

    Smart Home Products

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Ring Doorbell and Floodlight Bundle

    • $124.99
    • $249.99
    • 50% off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    This smart home security bundle pairs Ring’s battery-powered doorbell with a floodlight to give you both front-door and outdoor monitoring. The doorbell delivers head-to-toe high-definition video so you can see visitors and packages from your phone, while the Floodlight Cam adds motion-activated high-definition video and bright LED floodlights to illuminate dark walkways and deter unwanted visitors. Together, they create a powerful, layered security system that works seamlessly through the Ring app with Amazon Alexa compatibility.
    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Yale Assure Smart Front Door Lock with Keypad

    • $179.53
    • $259.99
    • 31% off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    This smart deadbolt replaces your existing lock with built-in Wi-Fi for remote access through the Yale Access app, and it includes a backlit keypad for key-free entry with custom codes. With auto-lock and auto-unlock features, DoorSense technology to confirm your door is securely closed, and compatibility with Alexa, Google Assistant, and Apple HomeKit, you’ll never have to worry about whether you remembered to lock up again.
    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Google Nest Thermostat with Temperature Sensor

    • $225.20
    • $279.99
    • 20% off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    Google’s newest Nest learning thermostat comes with a temperature sensor to help manage hot and cold spots in different rooms, and it learns your preferences over time to help save an average of 12% on heating and 15% on cooling. With a 60% larger display, built-in Wi-Fi for remote control through the Google Home app, and smart features like adaptive eco-mode when you’re away and Smart Schedule alerts, this thermostat makes energy-efficient climate control effortless.

    House Cleaning Products

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Shark PowerPro Cordless Vacuum

    • $
    • $276
    • % off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    The Shark lightweight cordless vacuum is perfect for tackling everyday messes, offering powerful, hassle-free suction. Its hypervelocity suction technology ensures strong performance on both carpets and hard floors. With LED headlights, you can easily spot dirt and debris hidden in dark corners and beneath furniture. Plus, the unit converts to a removable handheld vacuum, making above-floor cleaning, like stairs, upholstery, and tight spaces, quick and simple.
    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    DREAME L40 Robot Vacuum and Mop

    • $
    • $599.99
    • % off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    The Dreame L40 Ultra robot vacuum delivers powerful suction and features an extendable side brush that reaches deep into corners and around furniture legs. The unit has a removable, liftable mop that automatically lifts to prevent wetting carpets. With a self-cleaning station, an auto-empty dustbin, and up to 194 minutes of runtime, this smart vacuum handles both hard floors and carpets with minimal hands-on effort.
    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Dupray 17-Piece Steam Cleaner

    • $
    • $249.98
    • % off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    The Dupray Neat Plus steam cleaner uses superheated steam up to 275 degrees Fahrenheit to deep clean and sanitize floors, upholstery, grout, kitchen appliances, and car interiors without harsh chemicals. With a 90-second heat-up time and a continuous refill capability that lets you add water without waiting for the unit to cool down, it delivers chemical-free cleaning with minimal elbow grease. The unit includes 17 specialized accessories for tackling everything from windows to furniture.

    Holiday Decor Products

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Govee 99-Foot Christmas String Lights

    • $
    • $129.99
    • % off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    These smart Govee Christmas lights feature 99 feet of string lights with 300 LEDs and innovative shape-mapping technology that lets you create custom lighting effects by mapping your tree or display through a mobile app. With over 130 preset animated scenes, artificial intelligence (AI)-generated lighting effects, voice control via Alexa and Google Assistant, and an IP65 waterproof rating for indoor and outdoor use, these durable lights work in temperatures from -4 to 104 degrees Fahrenheit for year-round versatility.
    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Minetom 164-Foot LED Icicle Lights

    • $99.99

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    These stunning icicle lights offer a magical ambiance with a cascading effect. Perfect for outdoor holiday displays and rooflines, the 164-foot strand features 1,344 energy-efficient blue and white LEDs across 252 drops. They come equipped with eight lighting modes, a remote control, and a timer function. Plus, their IP44 waterproof rating ensures these lights can withstand inclement weather.
    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    7.5-Foot Pre-Lit Artificial Christmas Tree

    • $209.99

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    This 7.5-foot artificial Christmas tree features 1,430 individually crafted branch tips for a full, lifelike appearance. The tree comes pre-lit with 470 LED lights that feature eight lighting modes, including twinkle, flash, steady on, and more. With fire-resistant PVC branches and a durable metal stand included, this classic tree can bring holiday cheer for many years to come.

    Home Appliances Products

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Emeril Lagasse French Door Air Fryer

    • $149.99
    • $199.99
    • 25% off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    The Emeril Lagasse Extra Large French Door Air Fryer Toaster Oven Combo combines 24 cooking presets—including air fry, bake, broil, rotisserie, dehydrate, and slow cook—into one sleek 26-quart stainless steel appliance. The unit can fit a whole chicken, a 12-inch pizza, or a full tray of cookies. With 360-degree hot-air circulation for faster, even cooking, elegant French doors for easy access, and seven included accessories, this versatile countertop oven replaces multiple kitchen appliances while delivering chef-quality results.
    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Vitamix 5200 Professional-Grade Blender

    • $439.00
    • $483.50
    • 9% off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    The Vitamix 5200 blender features a powerful two-horsepower motor and stainless-steel blades that can pulverize everything from frozen fruit and ice to fibrous greens. This blender can even make hot soup in about six minutes using friction heat alone. With a 64-ounce BPA-free container, 10 variable speed settings, and a durable metal drive system backed by a seven-year warranty, this blender delivers restaurant-quality results on your countertop.
    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Ninja Hot and Iced Coffee Maker

    • $
    • $239.99
    • % off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    The Ninja specialty system is an all-in-one coffee maker that brews both ground coffee and K-Cup pods in 13 sizes—from a single cup to a full 12-cup carafe. Ninja’s coffee maker also features four brew styles, including a specialty concentrate for lattes and cappuccinos. With a built-in fold-away frother, an independent hot water system for tea or soup, and a 60-ounce repositionable water reservoir, this versatile machine replaces multiple appliances while delivering coffeehouse-quality drinks at home.

    Outdoor Products

    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Brisk-It Zelos Electric Pellet Grill and Smoker

    • $449.99

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    The Brisk-It Zelos electric wood pellet smoker features AI-powered Vera technology that creates personalized recipes, automates temperature control from 180 to 500 degrees Fahrenheit, and monitors your cooking via Wi-Fi so you can smoke, grill, bake, roast, sear, and BBQ with complete hands-off convenience. With 450 square inches of cooking space, an industrial-grade temperature controller for precise heat management, and durable weather-resistant steel construction, this seven-in-one grill delivers authentic wood-fired flavor without constant oversight.
    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    COSIEST 35-inch Outdoor Fire Pit

    • $398.96
    • $688.99
    • 42% off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    Create a cozy outdoor gathering space with this modern 35-inch-square propane fire pit. Delivering 50,000 British Thermal Units (BTUs) of smoke-free, clean heat via a stainless steel burner and easy push-button ignition, this unit features a stylish gray sandstone finish. It comes complete with a tempered glass wind guard, a convenient side table to conceal the propane tank, a metal lid, free lava rocks, and a rain cover.
    Product Card ImageCourtesy Amazon

    Greesum Outdoor Metal Storage Shed
    DEWALT 20V MAX

    • $263.48
    • $309.99
    • 15% off

    Prices taken at time of publishing.

    If you’re working on a project that isn’t near a power outlet, having a reliable cordless sander can be a convenient alternative to hooking up an extension cord. This product also comes with a one-hand locking dust collection bag that makes cleaning up a breeze.

    FAQs About Black Friday Home Improvement Deals

    When do Black Friday deals start and end?

    Most Black Friday deals begin at the start of Thanksgiving week and continue through Black Friday itself, or November 28. Some retailers even launch early sales in the days leading up to the holiday. These discounts typically run while supplies last, so shopping early gives you the best chance to snag top products. Keep an eye on updates, as new markdowns roll out daily.

    What type of home improvement products go on sale during Black Friday?

    Black Friday brings major discounts on a wide range of home improvement products. Shoppers can find deals on smart home devices, outdoor storage, cleaning and power tools, festive decor, and more. Whether you’re upgrading your home systems or buying gifts, the week offers deals for every homeowner. Retailers often bundle accessories or offer limited-time flash deals, so checking on the items you want throughout the week can help you secure the best price.

    How can I make sure I get the best deals for my home on Black Friday?

    Start by making a list of your must-have items and figure out which retailers advertise the best deals. Prioritize high-demand items like vacuums and security cameras early in the week, since they often sell out fast. Bookmark product pages and set deal alerts to catch price drops in real time. Shopping early and staying flexible on brands can help you save the most.

    Will new Black Friday deals keep coming throughout the week?

    Yes—retailers often release new Black Friday deals each day leading up to the holiday weekend. Many retailers add limited-time offers or bundle discounts to attract last-minute shoppers. Check deal roundups daily to stay ahead of the latest markdowns. This strategy can help you catch fresh price drops before items go out of stock.

    Why You Can Trust Us

    This Old House has empowered homeowners and DIY-ers for more than four decades with top-notch home improvement advice in the form of television programs, print media, and digital content. 

    Our team focuses on creating in-depth product and service review content. To date, we’ve published over 1,600 reviews on products in the home space, from doorbell cameras and backyard fencing to pool vacuums and snow blowers.

    Once we conclude our research, we craft a comprehensive, user-friendly article of recommended products and additional information to help our readers make the right purchase.

    Note: Pricing for the products featured in this guide were collected at the time of publication. Black Friday deals are subject to change.

    Questions or Comments?

    To share feedback or ask a question about this article, send a note to our Reviews Team at reviews@thisoldhousereviews.com.

    Next Up In Shop

    Although cooking fires may be the number-one cause of house fires, you also should be aware of another hidden danger that could put your home at risk for a fire. Here are ways to minimize the chances of an electrical fire in your home.

    by Mel Childs
    House fire
    iStock

    If you ever smell an odor in your home that’s similar to burning plastic or rubber or even fish, it’s important that you take notice and investigate. It could be a sign that an electrical fire is starting. In 2023, fires resulted in $23 billion in property damage, according to the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), with 51,000 fires annually attributed to electrical fires. Unlike cooking fires, electrical fires can be much more dangerous because they may not always be as easy to prevent as cooking fires. Keep reading to learn more about the root causes of electrical house fires and how you can minimize the losses that could arise from them.

    Related

    How to Prevent Dryer Fires in Your House

    What Causes Electrical Fires

    From the lighting to the electronics and appliances, every room of our homes are powered by electricity. That means, there could be a multitude of opportunities for an electrical fire to ignite. Here are some of the most common causes of electrical fires. 

    Faulty Wiring

    When wires are old, frayed, loose, or exposed or if they were not installed properly, the wiring can more easily overheat. Faulty wiring could be found on appliances or electronic devices, but it could also be behind walls, especially in old homes that were not designed to handle the capacity of modern electricity. Continuing to use malfunctioning appliances and electricity may put you at risk of an electrical fire.

    Overloaded Circuits

    Power strip that has caught fire
    iStock

    If you use extension cords or power strips, having too many electronics and other devices plugged into them at once could overload them and spark a fire. It’s also not a good idea to plug one extension cord or power strip into another one. Be mindful that there are certain items that should never be plugged into an extension cord or power strip, such as a space heater or a large appliance like a refrigerator or washing machine. Such items should always be plugged directly into an electrical wall outlet.

    Failed GFCI and AFCI Outlets

    Another surefire way to cause electrical fires is not having GFCI or AFCI outlets installed throughout the home. These two types of outlets detect different types of electrical problems and shut off the flow of electricity when they detect an issue. If they aren’t working correctly, they could cause a fire.

    An Old Breaker Box

    An old electrical panel can cause an electrical fire if the breakers fail to trip when circuits are overloaded, allowing wires to overheat. Aging components may become corroded or loose, creating arcing or sparking that can ignite nearby materials. Additionally, older panels may not meet modern safety standards, increasing the risk of undetected faults or short circuits.

    Not-So-Obvious Causes of Electrical Fires

    Most common house fire causes related to electricity aren’t the only ways you could have an electrical fire. There are also some hidden home fire hazards that you should be aware of, which result from conditions created by using devices connected to electricity.

    Incorrect Bulb Wattage

    You may not be aware of this, but using the wrong bulb wattage in a lamp could cause an electrical fire. Although you may want to make your space brighter, installing a light bulb with a higher wattage than is recommended for the lamp or fixture can be dangerous. If you want more illumination in a room, it is safer to either get a different lamp or fixture that uses higher-wattage light bulbs or add multiple light sources.

    Flammable Material Near Heat Sources

    If you try to hide the look of a messy cord by placing a mat or rug over it, this may cause it to overheat and cause an electrical fire. Also be mindful of keeping other forms of flammable materials, like curtains, paper, or excess dust, away from any electronic or appliance that produces heat such as a lamp or appliance.

    Pets Chewing on Wires

    Your pet may enjoy chewing on shoes and other household items. Unfortunately, sometimes that includes wires. Not only can that damage the wiring and cause a fire, but your pet can also harm themselves in the process. If you have a pet that mischievously loves to treat wires as chew toys, you’ll want to put a stop to this behavior as soon as possible and also replace the damaged wiring.

    Ways to Prevent an Electrical Fire

    Although electrical fires may start at a moment’s notice, they are completely avoidable in most cases. Here are some ways you can prevent catastrophe and keep your family safe.

    Get Inspections

    One of the best ways to prevent electrical fires is to have regular inspections. Ideally, you should get an electrical inspection every three to five years. However, if you notice an uptick in tripped circuit breakers, see flickering or buzzing lights, or feel that your walls are warmer than usual in certain spots, you will want to call an electrician immediately to perform a safety inspection.

    Avoid Amateur Electrical Work

    Another way to prevent electrical fires is to not perform DIY electrical projects. Without the right experience, licensing, and compliance to electrical codes, you may put your family’s safety at risk from improper electrical work.

    Upgrade an Outdated Electrical System

    If you live in an older house and have noticed that it struggles to keep up with your modern appliances and energy use, it’s a worthy, though expensive, investment to hire a licensed electrician to replace your electical panel and/or rewire your house, which can save you money on energy bills in the long run, not to mention ensure your family’s safety. An electrian can also install more outlets throughtout the house, which will minimize your reliance on extension cords.

    Make Sure GFCI and AFCI Outlets Work Properly

    Kitchen counter with GFCI outlet
    iStock

    GFCI outlets are typically located in areas of your home that are prone to moisture. They help prevent electrocution by shutting off electricity if your hair dryer or similar electronics produce a massive electrical shock or become submerged in water. AFCI outlets protect your home by shutting off power if they detect arc faults that may overload circuits and cause fires, particularly in unseen places. If these outlets aren’t working properly, this could increase the likelihood of electrocution and fires, so it’s smart to test these outlets monthly. If they aren’t working, have a licensed electrician inspect and fix them to ensure they are working correctly.

    Don’t Use Damaged Electrical Appliances or Cords

    Even a slightly cut or frayed wire could cause a spark that could start a fire. Therefore, it’s best to discard damaged electrical cords instead of continuing to use them. Although it may be pretty tempting to use electrical tape to fix and patch up damaged cords, it’s best to replace the cord or the item entirely. The same goes for faulty or outdated appliances.

    Rely on Your Senses

    If you smell electrical burning odors, this could be a sign that something is wrong. Also, if you touch the plate covering an outlet and it feels hot, this could mean that danger is imminent. Another critical way to use your senses to detect electrical problems is by using your sight. Do you see smoke? Have you noticed sparks, dimmed lights or flickering? When inspecting cords and outlets, do they look discolored? All of these could be signs that something is going wrong with the electricity in your home. One more sense that will alert you to danger is sound. Do you hear sizzling or buzzing sounds when you turn on light switches or plug in something? This could also indicate that something is amiss with your electricity and may eventually lead to a fire.

    Ensure Smoke Alarms are Working

    Although this may not cause a fire, it is a great way to protect your family’s life and guard your valuables. Smoke alarms will detect any type of smoke, even that from electrical components. Checking your fire alarms at least once a month ensures they are functioning correctly in the event of an emergency.

    Keep a Fire Extinguisher Handy

    Water should never be used in an electrical fire, as this could make it worse and even lead to electrocution. Instead, use a Class C fire extinguisher to contain a fire until the fire department arrives. If possible, try to unplug the item causing the electrical fire if possible to keep it from spreading. Most standard fire extinguishers in the home are Class ABC, which can handle an electrical fire.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Is there a way to know that I’m at risk for an electrical fire?

    The best way to determine this is to seek the assistance of a licensed professional electrician. They will use devices that detect what the naked eye cannot. Some signs that you may be at risk for an electrical fire include noticing flickering lights, electrical burning odors, discoloration around outlets, and tripped circuit breakers.

    Who should I call if I suspect an electrical emergency?

    It depends on the severity of the emergency. If a fire has already started due to an electrical spark, call the fire department immediately to put out the fire. If there is no fire present but the potential is present, it’s a good idea to call an electrician to check for problems and make the necessary repairs.

    Next Up In Home Safety

    Elevate your home’s design and comfort when you follow these step-by-step instructions to install cove lighting in crown molding.

    by Carol J. Alexander
    Dining room with set table and crown molding with cove lighint
    iStock

    We may be compensated if you purchase through links on our website. Our team is committed to delivering honest, objective, and independent reviews on home products and services.

    More

    Cove lighting is the secret ingredient to an elegant living space. It creates a subtle glow that emanates from above to highlight architectural features, build ambiance, and provide illumination to areas that lamps and chandeliers typically miss. Best of all, installing cove lighting in your space is easier than you imagine.

    In this article, we provide step-by-step instructions for installing cove lighting in crown molding, choosing the right LED strip lighting for your space, design considerations for different rooms of the house, and how to overcome common challenges.

    Related

    10 Inspiring Dining Room Lighting Ideas

    What is Cove Lighting?

    Cove lighting is a classic form of indirect lighting that is concealed in the room’s crown molding. It produces a soft upward glow that washes across ceilings, unlike direct lighting that can create harsh shadows or even a glare on your TV screen. For a complete layered light design in your home, you may want to consider partnering cove lighting with task and accent lighting.

    Choose Your Cove Lighting Style

    The style of crown molding and lighting you select will impact the difficulty of installation and the final aesthetic. Different rooms benefit from different molding profiles and lighting specifications, allowing you to customize the ambiance for each area of your home. When you take the time necessary to consider these style choices before purchasing materials, you ensure your cove lighting is both functional and beautiful.

    Types of Crown Molding

    By definition, crown molding “crowns” the perimeter of a room where the walls meet the ceiling. When crown molding is installed a few inches below the ceiling, the resulting gap provides a space to run lighting strips, which provide ambient cove lighting in the room. Crown molding is available in various profiles, from simple to ornate, and in various materials. The most common crown molding materials include:

    • Wood is a traditional material, which can be stained or painted for any decor.
    • Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) is an affordable engineered wood product. It’s not recommended for humid areas.
    • Polyurethane is more durable than foam, easy to install, and moisture-resistant, making it perfect for bathroom and kitchen installations.
    • Vinyl molding is made from polyvinyl chloride. It can be painted and is suitable for humid locations.
    • Foam is a lightweight option that’s easy for DIY installation although it’s less durable.
    • Aluminum provides a modern look, but it’s more expensive and may require professional installation.

    Types of LED Strip Lighting

    Detail shot of crown molding with lighting
    iStock

    Most homeowners prefer LED strip lights for cove lighting due to its low profile, energy efficiency, and versatility. When selecting LED strip lights, consider the wattage, lumens, and color temperature best for the space. Warm, yellowish whites (2700K–3000K) create cozy environments, while cool neutral whites (3500K–4500K) provide illumination that’s neither yellow nor blue, and good for clear lighting without harshness. Daylight whites (4500K and above) emit a bright, bluish light, similar to daylight.

    It’s important that you ensure that the color temperature of your ambient cove lighting matches that of the other lighting in your space.

    You may also want to look for certain features like:

    • Dimmability for adjustable ambiance
    • RGB capabilities for color-changing options in entertainment spaces
    • Moisture resistance for bathrooms and kitchens

    The following table suggests values and features for different rooms of the house.

    How to Choose Cove Lighting for Different Rooms of the House

    RoomLighting ColorFeaturesPlacement IdeasDesign Tips
    Living RoomWarm white LEDs (2700K to 3000K)Dimmer for adjustable ambianceAlong ceiling perimeterYou may also want to consider RGB options for a movie room or other type of entertainment space.
    KitchenNeutral LEDs (3500K to 4500K)High color rendering index (90+) for color accuracyAbove or below cabinets or along ceiling perimeterPrioritize brighter lights for tasks.
    BedroomWarm white LEDs (2700K to 3000K)Automated dimmer for adjustable ambianceOn wall opposite bed for soft, indirect illuminationOpt for warmer lights to create a relaxing, restful environment
    BathroomWarm (2700K to 3000K) or neutral white LEDs (3500K to 4500K)Dimmable, moisture-rated fixturesAlong ceiling for ambient glow; around mirrorsChoose warm LEDs for a spa-like ambiance; select neutral LEDs for clearer, bright light. Make sure LEDs are moisture-resistant for safety.

    Preparing to Install Cove Lighting

    Proper planning is crucial for a successful cove lighting installation. Follow these instructions for designing the layout and preparing the space before beginning the project. Doing this properly will save time and prevent damage during installation. Make sure to wear safety glasses and work gloves.

    Here is a list of tools and materials you will need to complete this project.

    Materials

    • Crown and cove molding (profile of choice)
    • Safety glasses
    • Work gloves
    • Pencil
    • LED strip lights
    • Drop cloths
    • Painter’s tape
    • Masking film or paper
    • Sandpaper
    • White ceiling paint, primer, and paintbrush
    • Tack cloth
    • Wire connectors
    • Electrical tape
    • 1×3 clear pine board for the base
    • 2-inch screws
    • 2×4 to cut blocks
    • 1 ¼-inch and 2-inch brads
    • Double-sided tape or Velcro
    • Compatible transformer
    • Dimmer switch (LED compatible)
    • Cable management clips

    Tools

    Tools & Materials

    Plan the Layout

    1. Measure the room’s perimeter to determine the total length of LED strip lights needed. Add 10% for potential errors or future repairs.
    2. Calculate your power requirements by multiplying the wattage per foot of your chosen LED strip by the total length to ensure your transformer can handle the load. Never exceed the maximum load rating of transformers or LED controllers.
    3. Read the power requirements for your light product to ensure you have power outlets within range to prevent voltage drop, which causes uneven brightness.
    4. Mark outlet locations and transformer placement on your layout, ensuring they’re accessible but hidden from view.

    Prep the Space

    1. Remove furniture from the area or cover it with drop cloths to protect it from dust and debris.
    2. Mask off walls and ceilings with painter’s tape and masking film or paper to protect surfaces during crown molding installation.
    3. Plan and install an inconspicuous housing for the transformer, such as in a closet or cabinet.
    4. Check electrical connections and install any new outlets needed to supply power.
    5. Paint crown molding before installation for easier application and better results. Sand, prime, and paint the interior surface of the crown molding, and the wall below the ceiling that the molding will hide with white ceiling paint to maximize light reflection before mounting.

    How To Install Cove Lighting Step-by-Step

    Man placing a lighting strip in cove lighting
    iStock

    Follow these steps to elevate your space with cove lighting.

    1. Measure Everything.

    Practicing Electrical Safety

    Working with electrical components requires careful attention to safety protocols to prevent hazards. Always check with local officials for permitting and electrical code requirements before beginning the work.

    For complex installations or if you’re unfamiliar with electrical work, it’s recommended to hire a professional electrician. In bathrooms and damp locations, always use moisture-rated components and ensure proper GFCI protection to prevent shock hazards.

    Measure down from the ceiling at multiple points and draw horizontal lines that indicate the placement for the LED strip lights and the bottom of the base. The goal isn’t to have level molding, but to have it run parallel with the ceiling. So don’t use a level because if the ceiling isn’t true, your molding will look uneven.

    2. Install LED Strip Lights.

    Clean the wall with a tack cloth to remove dust and oils along the mark for your LED strip placement to ensure adhesion. Remove the backing from the LED strip lights as you move along, pressing the strip into place. For longer runs, use wire connectors or electrical tape at strategic points rather than trying to install one continuous strip. Only cut the strips at designated cut lines.

    3. Install the Base.

    Use a 1×3 clear pine board, painted to match the molding, as a base for your other components. Use a stud finder to locate wall studs and mark them with tape. Following the line you drew in Step 1, secure the base to the wall with 2-inch screws at every stud, high enough on the board that the molding will cover them. Use a miter saw to cut precise 45-degree angles where the boards meet at the corners.

    4. Install the Support Blocks.

    To make the support blocks, rip a 2×4 on the table saw at the same angle as your molding. From that, cut blocks about 6 inches long. Fasten the blocks to the base every 16 to 18 inches with a brad nailer and 1¼-inch brads. Keep the top of the block flush with the top of the base.

    To give your new trim a professional look, use the brad nailer to attach a narrow cove molding to the bottom of the base.

    5. Install the Electrical Components.

    Hire a licensed electrician to install dedicated outlets if needed, ensuring they’re hidden but accessible for maintenance. Use double-sided tape or Velcro to mount transformers in inconspicuous locations. To accommodate cord length limitations, ensure they’re within 6 feet of the outlets. Label all components and take photos for future reference.

    6. Connect the Power and Controls.

    Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to connect the LED strip lights to the transformer. Then install dimmers or smart controllers according to their instructions. Use cable management clips to keep wiring tidy and hidden.

    7. Install the Crown Molding.

    Use a brad nailer to fasten the crown molding to the base and the support blocks. Use 1 ¼-inch brads along the base and 2-inch brads to secure the molding to the blocks. When nailing to the blocks, hold the nailer parallel with the ceiling to ensure the brad goes straight through the block and into the base. Use a miter saw to cut precise 45-degree angles where the molding will meet at the corners.

    8. Test and Troubleshoot.

    Test everything when you’re done. Ensure the dimmer or smart controls work as needed. Look for dark spots, flickering, or color inconsistencies. Check the installation in the daytime and evening to ensure the light reflects as anticipated and creates the ambiance you were looking for. Adjust positioning or connections as needed.

    How to Solve Potential Challenges

    Even experienced DIYers encounter challenges when installing cove lighting. If you know what they are before you begin, you can navigate possible obstacles more effectively.

    Potential Challenges and Solutions for Cove Lighting Installation

    ChallengeProblemSolution
    Uneven ceilingsCrown molding not parallel to the ceiling creates an uneven gapMeasure down from the ceiling at multiple points around the room rather than using a level and mark at set points and draw horizontal line to work off of
    Power distributionVoltage drop causes dimmer lights at the end of long runsUse multiple transformers for large rooms; verify the transformer capacity
    Light visibilityThe LED strips are visible from a standing positionPosition the strips higher on the wall; use a deeper crown molding profile
    Corners and transitionsDifficult miter cuts and light continuity around cornersUse pre-made corner connectors; practice cuts on scrap material first
    Dimming compatibilityFlickering or poor dimming performanceEnsure complete compatibility between the LED strips, transformer, and the dimmer switch

    Installing cove lighting in crown molding takes your living space from ordinary to extraordinary in as little as an afternoon. The subtle, ambient glow creates depth and dimension that traditional lighting can’t match. Whether you’re renovating a single room or updating your entire home, this project delivers a design aesthetic that impresses guests and enhances your daily living experience.

    Next Up In Lighting

    The floor plan made sense for this narrow kitchen, but storage and surfaces were sorely lacking. See how creatively reconfiguring cabinets and countertops maxed out the space while leaving appliances and fixtures in place.

    by Nina Malkin
    Archways and warm wood are ’30s-era hallmarks that homeowners John and Michelle Smith didn’t want to lose while modernizing their kitchen. Stained oak flooring, touches of brass, and an old-fashioned faucet have a “been there forever” feel that works well with the sleek new surfaces. | Michael Alan Kaskel

    Lots of folks fantasize about supersizing their kitchen, but a variety of reasons can make bumping out infeasible. Such was the case in John and Michelle Smith’s 1937 Lannon stone Colonial in Wauwatosa, WI. “The only wall that would allow us to bump out had two built-in curio cabinets and detailed plaster molding in the dining room—we didn’t want to disrupt that,” John says. “Not to mention that the cost would have been beyond our budget.”

    Related

    A Charming Old Home Gets an Ultra Energy-Efficient Upgrade

    Fortunately, the layout of appliances and fixtures was ideal for the narrow, average-sized kitchen, but its 168 square feet were squandered, having the Smiths contend with skimpy, ill-defined storage and scant countertop surfaces. Plus, while the couple did love the look of their original oak cabinets, the doors were in disrepair. “They didn’t fully close properly anymore,” John says. “And because they were so heavy, they’d pull the screws out and half the door threatened to fall off when you opened it!”

    The only appliance to be relocated was the dishwasher, shifted to the left of the sink so a pantry could be installed on the right. The pantry’s placement “is ideal when putting groceries away and prepping for cooking,” John says. And at 36 inches wide, 24 inches deep, and 93 inches tall, it’s ample enough to hold all the food staples for the family of four. Speaking of bigger and better, the new island has four feet more workspace than its predecessor. | Michael Alan Kaskel

    Refining the Floor Plan

    Another “keeper” for the Smiths: the simple profile and solid craftsmanship of their original window casings and trim. “We opted for a painted white finish to reflect light, brightening and bringing airiness to what is a relatively compact kitchen,” points out Lisa Kurtz, the interior designer at Story Hill who headed the project. A backsplash in variegated tones of beige and gold, as well as subtle veining on the island countertop, soften the black-and-white color scheme. | Michael Alan Kaskel

    Enter design firm Story Hill, whose number one priority was improving the utility of the existing floor plan. “With us, function comes first, making everyday use more enjoyable and efficient,” says Story Hill interior designer Lisa Kurtz. “So we focused on three key things: storage, counter space, and the range area.” Base cabinetry was added beneath bay windows, forming a buffet, and a tall pantry was installed beside the sink. Further storage as well as work surfaces came from a more substantial island and new cabinetry around the range.

    True, the appliances, sink, and island remained in the same location, but a few logical changes made a huge difference—for instance, scrapping a broom closet to gain more room around the stove. “The range is now flanked by workable prep space, and our trash and recycling, formerly in the broom closet, got built into a roll-out on the island, perfect for sweeping counter debris into,” Michelle explains.

    Storage is not only doubled, it makes better sense now, with deep drawers and pull-outs for ease of use. “No more getting on our hands and knees to reach a colander from the back of a cabinet,” John says.

    Stepping Up the Style

    The remade nook includes a single stool, which the Smiths say is a great spot for a solo coffee in the morning or to keep an eye on the family pooch out in the backyard. Losing the kitchen’s “eat-in” element was a small sacrifice compared to the utility of the base cabinets and countertop built into the area. “We use this as a cocktail station for parties,” John says, “and there’s a flip-up outlet that allows us to power a crockpot or warmer.” | Michael Alan Kaskel

    After finalizing functional decisions, it was time to consider aesthetics to create a streamlined, clutter-free vibe while paying homage to the period architecture. The trick to successfully mixing modern with retro, according to Kurz, is “Keeping the lines clean while maintaining warmth, and incorporating details with pattern and color.”

    So the Smiths splurged a bit on wood flooring, a Calacatta marble tile backsplash, and a single piece of quartz for the island counter. (To save money, they decided against high-end appliances.) Michelle says the renovation achieved their goals of “a classic traditional kitchen that seamlessly complements the rest of the house,” calling the cook space “timeless and beautiful, as well as highly functional.”

    And John points out how the new kitchen truly suits the way the Smiths cook, eat, and entertain. “The large island and buffet are very versatile when it comes to having multiple food items going at once,” he says. “We’ve had many family gatherings where we can prep and serve meals, snacks, apps, desserts—even enjoy a dedicated drink station.”

    Pretty impressive—all without changing the layout!

    Make Your Existing Layout Suit Your Life

    John recalls how the existing kitchen had a “makeshift island that wobbled,” but the butcher block top was basically it for food prep. As to the drop-leaf table that took up the nook, he says, “When our son and daughter were younger, they’d sit there to eat a meal or do homework, but once they got older, the area was underused.” – Story Hill Renovations
    1 of 3

    You needn’t change your floor plan to improve functionality. Simply factor in your family’s needs when planning your kitchen renovation. Consider these tips:

    Got kids? Find a big-enough fridge. 

    “Our growing 14-year-old son would go through two frozen pizzas per day,” says John. “We found a refrigerator with a freezer portion that holds 10 frozen pizza boxes with room to spare. When we went shopping, we actually brought a pizza box to see how it would fit!”

    Got pets? Figure out a feeding station.

    Lola, the Smiths’ border doodle, has her own feeding station. “This was one of the best things to come out of the renovation, since it’s right by the refrigerator for water and her food and treats are in the back hall nearby,” John says. “It’s great having her bowls off the floor, considering the multiple times one of us would kick the water bowl over.” | Michael Alan Kaskel

    You can locate it under a counter, as the Smiths did, or consider hiding it in a wall, like this blogger.

    Specify your storage.

    Dedicate drawers, shelving, and niches to suit how you cook. For example, if you do a lot of sautéing and saucing, make sure that all your supplies and utensils can be accessed when at the stove.

    Amp up the electric.

    A renovation is a prime opportunity to upgrade and increase lighting, outlets, and charging stations to serve the wired way we live today.

    Go deep.

    Folks who enjoy feeding a crowd may not need a larger sink but a deeper one to hold roasting pans and stock pots out of sight from company in the kitchen.

    Do something bold above.

    Add character to a cook space with distinctive pendant lights, like the opal glass globes the Smiths chose, or consider the current trend of painting the ceiling in a statement-making color and finish.  

    Next Up In Kitchens

    This Old House's 47th season will document the renovation of an 1896 Victorian house in the Boston suburbs, where the homeowners are updating the layout so it is better suited to family life with three sons

    by Jill Connors
    The façade of the1896 house shows Queen Anne Victorian elements such as dormers and a front porch.
    The façade of the1896 house shows Queen Anne Victorian elements such as dormers and a front porch, which will be preserved. | Anthony Tieuli
    Homeowners Patrick and Liz Sheehan on the front steps with the youngest of their three sons.
    Homeowners Patrick and Liz Sheehan on the front steps with the youngest of their three sons. | Anthony Tieuli

    After seven years of living in their 1896 house, Liz and Patrick Sheehan had a well-thought-out wish list for the house where they are raising their three sons, who range in age from 1 to 17. They want to enhance the Queen Anne Victorian elements they love, such as the front porch, bay windows, and multiple dormers. But they’d like to bring the interior layout and its segmented rooms—typical of the 19th century—into the modern era with a more open floor plan.

    With budget in mind, the plan for the 3-story, 3,000-square-foot house will focus on the kitchen, bathrooms, and mechanical systems while also building a modest two-story rear addition. The renovation, led by TOH home builder Charlie Silva, will be documented as part of TOH TV’s 47th season.

    “We fell in love with the style of the house and its wonderful details such as the wooden floors, built-in cabinets, and fireplaces when we bought it, but once we moved in, we kept imagining how much better it could be with some layout changes,” says Liz. Another area to update is the backyard, which currently has a rotting pergola and unused frog pond, as well as overgrown trees and bushes. Says Patrick: “My wish list for the yard is low maintenance, a brick patio, and plenty of green space for the boys.”

    The current family room at the front of the house will become the dining room. – Anthony Tieuli
    1 of 5

    Working with architect Marcus Springer, the Sheehans mapped out a plan, floor by floor. On the first floor, the biggest change is at the back of the house, where an adequate but closed-off kitchen will be replaced with a larger open-plan room that flows to an adjacent family room. Removing a wall and adding a bumpout will make way for the new kitchen-family area plus a new mudroom and powder room. A bigger rear deck will be possible as well.

    “We’ll make good use of the bumpout going 15 feet off the back of the current kitchen to give the Sheehans the room they need,” says Charlie Silva.

    RelateD

    A First Look at the Carolina Comeback Project Houses

    Repurposing spaces is a key to the first-floor improvements. The dining room, currently located at the back of the house next to the kitchen (with a wall diving the rooms), will move to the front of the house, currently a living room space. The newly open floor plan for the kitchen, featuring a large center island, will then flow to a family room with backyard views.

    The second floor’s primary bedroom will become a true primary suite, when the addition makes room for a full bath. – Anthony Tieuli
    1 of 3

    On the second floor, work will focus on creating a true primary suite for Liz and Patrick. Their bedroom currently has an awkward layout that includes a walk-through closet and a half-bath—adjacent to a hallway full bath. Making use of the two-story addition at the rear, the plan calls for a full primary bath at the back of the house, plus walk-in closets for each of them, and an ample bedroom. The hallway bath will be moved so it is more centrally located between the other two second-floor bedrooms.

    The third-floor stairway leads to a finished area with office, two bedrooms, and a bath; insulation will be added to the third floor to ensure the HVAC is effective. – Anthony Tieuli
    1 of 2

    For the third floor, the current layout of two bedrooms, one bath, and an office nook will remain in place, but insulation will be added to the area holding the HVAC system’s air handler so that the heating and cooling system is more efficient.

    basement with house mechanicals and storage
    The house’s mechanicals will remain in largely the same place in the basement but will get upgrades. | Anthony Tieuli

    In the basement, a key improvement will be building a conditioned gym, utilizing new space from the addition’s foundation. After exploring a number of HVAC options, the homeowners will replace the current forced hot-air system with an energy-efficient hydronic HVAC system, but will keep the location of the mechanicals in largely the same place in the center of the basement.

    On the exterior, one big decision will be whether to replace the aluminum siding with traditional wooden clapboard siding or engineered wood. The landscape changes will focus primarily on removing unneeded or dysfunctional elements—pulling up an existing brick patio and removing a tree whose root system will damage any future patio that is built, in addition to removing the pergola and frog pond—while also addressing shrubs that have become overgrown and are encroaching on space that could be given over to play areas.

    The driveway façade shows a bay window on the first floor.
    The driveway façade shows a bay window on the first floor, another Victorian element that will be kept. | Anthony Tieuli

    Throughout the renovation, the Sheehans are committed to preserving such details as a built-in china cabinet, original front-porch railings, and as much original flooring as possible. Liz even decided to keep a quirky two-steps-up/two-steps-down hallway feature from the front of the house to the kitchen, given its old-fashioned character. Removing fireplaces and chimneys, however, became a matter of gaining additional space for the new layout.

    “There’s always some give and take, but we know the end result will give us the house we need, while keeping old character too,” says Liz.

    Next Up In Season 47 - Needham Suburban Victorian

    Jenn meets with Swannanoa homeowners Jim, Allie, and Miah to hear their visions for brand-new yards, offering plant and layout options tailored to each property’s sun exposure and conditions.

    by This Old House TV

    Previous Episode: E3: Revival Brewing | Next Episode: Coming soon

    When North Carolina’s Swannanoa River crested more than 26 feet during Hurricane Helene, the raging water didn’t stop at the homes it destroyed—it carried entire landscapes away with it. In this next episode of our Carolina Comeback web series, This Old House turns its attention outdoors as local crews and a nearby garden center partner to help homeowners reclaim their yards, one plant at a time.

    Landscape expert Jenn Nawada meets with three homeowners—Jim, Allie, and Miah—to begin shaping visions for their brand-new outdoor spaces. “This is an extension of your home,” Jenn reminds them, encouraging thoughtful plant choices based on USDA hardiness zones, native species, and the unique sun and shade conditions of each property.

    Tune in to full episodes of Season 47 Carolina Comeback airing now on PBS (check your local listings) and on the Roku Channel

    See more exclusive Carolina Comeback web content

    Starting with the sunny front yards, Jenn walks the group through options that bring structure, color, and resilience. She introduces clethra, fothergilla, sweet shrub, ninebark, viburnum, lilac, and the ever-reliable limelight hydrangea. The homeowners respond with excitement as they imagine the combinations: “I love the hydrangeas,” Allie says, while Jim is drawn to the “fothergilla and the summersweet.” Miah gravitates toward fragrant and colorful choices that will stay lush throughout the year.

    In the shadier back sections, Jenn shifts to plants that thrive with partial light—azaleas, andromeda, oakleaf hydrangea, mountain laurel, rhododendron, and skip laurel. The group quickly envisions a cozy, more private retreat. “I can just see myself sitting on my back porch, admiring the color and the feel of privacy,” Miah says, already imagining her renewed space.

    As Jenn gathers the selected plants and begins drafting tailored designs for each home, the Swannanoa project moves one step closer to restoring beauty, comfort, and life to these hard-hit properties.

    Watch the video to see how the homeowners bring their landscapes back to life—and how thoughtful plant choices are helping restore the ecosystem one yard at a time.

    Next Up In Season 47 - Carolina Comeback

    Landscape contractor Lee Gilliam helps a pair of homeowners level and seed their backyard so their daughter can stay dry and play safely.

    by Ask This Old House TV

    Uneven yards can be tricky for little kids to navigate. Depressions make walking and running unsafe, and they hold water, creating wet, muddy conditions. When a couple wanted their backyard to be flatter and retain less water, landscape contractor Lee Gilliam answered their call. With a simple process, he was able to repair the soil, regrade the lawn, and seed it for the growing season.

    How to Regrade a Yard

    1. Start by dethatching the lawn. This involves removing the dead grass, roots, twigs, and other debris that pack down on top of the soil. Use a metal rake or a power dethatcher to cut through the thatch layer and bring it to the surface for removal.
    2. Use the wheelbarrow to bring in the loam. Dump it in piles across the yard and spread it out with the rake. Level it out with the leveling rake, pushing it back and forth to fill the low spots in the yard.
    3. Fill the seed spreader with limestone and spread it across the lawn, on top of the fresh loam. The limestone will repair the soil and bring up the soil’s pH level to help grass grow.
    4. With the limestone spread, it’s time to spread the grass seed and fertilizer. If the lawn is small, it’s best to spread the seed by hand, as you can control where it goes and ensure that everything is covered equally. Cast it out in long, sweeping tosses, covering the entire yard.
    5. Use the back of a metal rake to knock down any piles of grass seed and spread it around. The goal is to ensure that all of the grass seed is spread evenly and in contact with the soil.
    6. Fill the wheelbarrow with peat moss and spread it over the grass seed. Water the seed once or twice each day for around two weeks to keep the peat moss from blowing away.

    Materials

    Tools

    You can choose to rent a power dethatcher.

    Tools & Materials

    Next Up In Yards

    Unlock Exclusive Access

    Enjoy ad-free streaming and exclusive extras!

    Join Insider