From tools and gadgets to useful homeowner gifts, we put together a list of recommendations to help you with your holiday shopping.
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Sunken living rooms were all the architectural rage during the middle of the last century in the United States, and today they’re making a comeback. Find out what they are exactly, why they became so popular and eventually fell out of favor, and whether you should consider including one as a special feature of your home.
If you’ve ever watched The Mary Tyler Moore Show or Mad Men, you may have spotted an interesting architectural feature: the sunken living room. This is a section of the room that’s recessed from the rest—sort of like an alcove in the floor—to create an intimate nook that’s perfect for entertaining. (This is why sunken living rooms are also called “conversation pits.”) They were a bona fide mid-century trend, and some homes today have retained this unique element.
If you have an older house that boasts a sunken living room, you may be wondering, “can you can get rid of a sunken living room?” On the other hand, you may be a fan of this design and thinking about building one into your home. A sunken living room comes with its shares of pros and cons, so it may not be for everyone. We’ll get into the details, including the history of sunken living rooms and how to modernize them for homes today. Whether or not the sunken living is here to stay remains to be seen, but the fact that this design style has resurfaced after decades speaks to its enduring appeal.
Sunken living rooms from the ’60s and ’70s generally resembled a separate room or space submerged below ground level—but without the use of walls. They often featured a short set of stairs to step down to the lower level, which could be a few inches or several feet below. Typically, at least one part of the perimeter was edged with a customized sofa, and a fireplace served as the pit’s focal point. The intention was to create an intimate space for having conversation, sipping drinks, and hanging out.
Pro Tip: Architect Donald Powers, resident architect, explains the design strategy: “To give the room a sense of spaciousness, [we] situated it three steps down from the dining room, in effect raising the ceiling.” This clever technique creates the illusion of a more dramatic ceiling height without major structural changes.
Bruce Goff, an American architect mentored by Frank Lloyd Wright, is credited with designing the first sunken living room in 1925, before he turned 20 years old. The designer, who became renowned for his inventive and eclectic home and commercial designs, created this innovative room for an Art Deco home in Tulsa, Oklahoma. The historic house is privately owned today and undergoing restoration, with many of the unique structural designs and details kept intact—including the original sunken living room.
But it wasn’t until decades later that the design took off. In 1957, architect Eero Saarinen and designer Alexander Girard incorporated it into a private home in Columbus, Indiana. In 1962, Saarinen went on to add a large sunken waiting area to the influential design of the TWA terminal in New York’s John F. Kennedy airport.
Conversation pits became a bona fide trend during the middle of the last century, bolstered by the increasing popularity of ranch homes as a suburban architectural style. Installing a sunken living room helped counterbalance a ranch’s open floor plan and low ceilings, delineating certain areas and making the room look more spacious. Just as quickly as this trend rose into the zeitgeist, however, it fell out of favor and became dismissed as a fad of the era.
Fast-forward to today: Mid-century interior design is experiencing a resurgence and open-floor plans are once again in vogue. Sunken spaces are returning as a niche element that defines boundaries and creates a signature look. Contemporary versions tend to resemble elegantly lowered spaces rather than a large hole in the ground, with a transition that appears more seamless than dramatic. Despite having to take a few steps down, you may not even realize you’re in a sunken living room when you’re in it.
The effect of descending into a sunken space goes beyond mere aesthetics. As architects Brewer and Stern demonstrated in their design, lowering the floor creates a clever deception that amplifies ceiling height—achieving 12-foot vaults that rise at least 3 feet higher than the lowest ceilings in the house. “You’re descending as you travel through the house, which makes it more interesting,” says Brewer.
These charming, submerged nooks can bring a lot of benefits to your home.
Part of the reason that sunken living rooms fell out of favor may be because the space can be impractical for some.
To ensure you create an updated take on your sunken living room, focus on clean lines and modern materials. For instance, neutral wood floors will look more current than vintage shag carpeting. Here are some other ideas for your sunken living room.
If it makes sense for the design, you may want to install a railing around the perimeter to limit missteps and falls. Another idea is to use different flooring types or colors between levels for contrast, to make the recessed area more visible.
A sunken living room is the perfect spot for a fireplace, so make that your focal point. The hearth can give the semi-enclosed space a sense of coziness in an otherwise large room.
To keep the sunken spot from becoming too dark and cavernous, bring in as much natural light as possible with versatile window treatments. Or, consider adding artificial lighting in the form of recessed lights or floor lamps. More lighting will also minimize the potential for accidental falls.
When selecting bulbs for your sunken living room, aim for 800-lumen bulbs in overhead fixtures for bright general lighting. For accent lights that highlight architectural features, choose dimmer 450 to 800 lumens per bulb. Consider color temperature too: bulbs in the 3500K to 4100K range provide neutral bright-white light, while those at 5000K or higher simulate natural daylight.
Pro Tip: Interior design pro Michael Murphy of Lamps Plus advises: “If you can only add one source of light, make it big enough to fill the room.” He recommends calculating the ideal diameter for overhead fixtures by adding the room’s dimensions in feet, then converting that number to inches.
Whether you’re planning to use the space to chat with friends, read a book, or watch a TV show, bring in elements that are all about comfort–decorative pillows, soft throws, or an area rug are all great additions.
Sunken living rooms are a unique way to add a bit of whimsy or interest to your home, and if you’re designing a new house or completely renovating an old one, it’s a fun element to consider. You’ll likely need to involve an architect who can help you plan out the space, taking into account ceiling height, focal points, and lighting.
But if you’re planning to build a sunken living into an existing space, that may be a more difficult task. It’ll likely involve lowering the foundation of the home, which requires a permit and certainly isn’t a simple endeavor. Given the cost and extensive planning required, you might ask yourself if this is a project worth taking on.
Many new homeowners whose house had originally been designed with a sunken living room opted to get rid of it by raising the floor. This can be a costly and difficult project, ranging anywhere from $5,000 to $25,000 and requiring the help of a professional. Factors affecting the cost include the size and height of the space and the type of flooring you plan to install. You’ll also need a permit to do this sort of work, since you’ll be making a structural change to the home.
In general, the steps to raising the floor of an existing sunken living room include filling in the subflooring with plywood, adding ventilation and possibly concrete, installing the new flooring over the level floor, moving or adding electrical outlets, and painting.
An array of colors, shapes, patterns, and combos lets you make a striking statement against sleek fixtures and surfaces.
Mid-century modern design continues to captivate homeowners and designers well into the 21st century. This enduring style, which flourished from the 1930s through the 1960s, is characterized by sleek lines, bold colors, and a futuristic vibe that manages to feel both nostalgic and fresh.
In bathrooms, choosing the right tile is key for establishing the mid-century modern look. Whether you’re planning a full renovation or simply looking for a refresh, mid-century modern tile offers a wealth of inspiring options. This guide will walk you through them.
Color was a defining feature of original mid-century modern bathrooms. While today’s interpretations may incorporate new hues and finishes, bold use of color remains a hallmark of the style. Modern designs often forgo the traditional black borders and matching fixtures, opting instead for a more nuanced approach that allows the tile to take center stage. Here are a few of the most popular colors:
Pro Tip: When choosing a tile format for a mid-century modern bathroom, consider the elongated subway tile. On a recent This Old House project, Kevin O’Connor noted how the design team achieved a modern feel by taking the classic subway tile, elongating it, and making it narrow, then installing it in a vertical position with a matte finish. “You take the subway tile, you elongate it, you make it narrow. That gives a modern feel to it,” Kevin observed. A matte finish, as opposed to high gloss, can give the tile a contemporary edge while still honoring mid-century roots.
Mid-century modern design is known for its distinctive shapes and patterns. From organic forms to geometric designs, these elements add character and visual interest to bathroom spaces. By incorporating different textures and layering patterns, you can create a bathroom that pays homage to mid-century innovation while staying relevant to today’s design norms.
Lily pad tiles make for an eye-catching backsplash, creating a focal point that complements wood cabinetry and sleek white fixtures. This playful pattern adds a touch of whimsy to the bathroom while maintaining the clean lines characteristic of mid-century design. Pairing these tiles with vibrant wall art and retro-inspired lighting can elevate the space further.
Subtle geometric patterns can create an intriguing effect without overwhelming the space. A maze-like backsplash paired with rounded mirrors and sconces strikes a balance between angular and soft forms. Integrating black and white elements can provide a striking yet minimalistic look, emphasizing the geometric designs.
For those seeking a bolder approach, combine period-perfect pastels with graphic neutral tiles. This playful juxtaposition captures the spirit of mid-century design while feeling thoroughly modern. Mixing different patterns and textures within a complementary color palette can add depth and complexity, making a bold statement.
Mixing different tile styles is a hallmark of contemporary mid-century-inspired design. Here are some clever combinations:
While mid-century furniture is known for its simplicity, bathroom tiles offer an opportunity to introduce complex geometric patterns. Today’s designers are experimenting with a wide range of shapes and sizes, from tiny 1×1 inch squares to large format 8×12 inch tiles. Curvy fish scale, oval, and circular motifs provide a softer counterpoint to the angular forms typically associated with mid-century design. Using these patterns thoughtfully can create focal points without overwhelming the overall design.
Pro Tip: Carole, a tile and stone expert featured on This Old House, advises choosing patterns with staying power: “It’s a classic basket-weave, it’s timeless, it’s been around for a long time, and I think it’s got a lot of staying power.” Her lesson applies to mid-century geometric tile as well—you don’t want to invest in a bold pattern that will feel dated in a few years. Stick with geometric motifs that have proven longevity, like hexagons, basket-weaves, or the soccer-ball pattern.
The space age fascination of the post-war era finds new expression in contemporary bathroom design. Subtle nods to atomic and cosmic elements can be incorporated through accent tiles, adding a touch of retro-futurism to your space. Think about these options:
Incorporating mid-century modern tiles into a contemporary bathroom allows you to blend the timeless appeal of vintage design with the technology of modern living. Below are some tips and strategies for homeowners looking to incorporate mid-century modern tiles while achieving a balanced and updated design.
Pairing mid-century modern tiles with contemporary fixtures helps create a balanced and cohesive look that doesn’t feel outdated. Modern fixtures such as sleek faucets, frameless glass shower doors, and minimalist lighting can tone down the retro aesthetic, ensuring your bathroom looks stylish and current. Choose materials like brushed nickel, matte black, or polished chrome for hardware and fixtures to complement the vintage-inspired tiles without overwhelming the space.
When updating a mid-century home, finding the right designer makes all the difference. For one canyon house featured in This Old House Magazine, homeowner Cathy Wilmoth hired designer Caitlin Moran specifically because of her passion for the era. As Cathy put it, “She adores mid-century. Rather than rip everything out, she wanted to stay true to the house and make it better.” That philosophy—selecting modern fixtures that enhance rather than erase the original character—is the key to a successful mid-century bath update.
Pro Tip: When mixing eras, take a cue from This Old House’s approach on a mid-century bathroom project: Rachel kept the palette restrained, going with “a little more masculine with a black-and-white look” to let the mid-century tile layout shine alongside modern fixtures. A disciplined color scheme helps contemporary hardware blend seamlessly with vintage-style tilework.
Mid-century modern design often embraces bold, vibrant colors like mustard yellow, teal, and orange. While these colors can make a statement, it’s essential to balance them with neutral elements like white, beige, or gray to prevent the bathroom from feeling too overpowering. For instance, consider using bold tiles as an accent wall or backsplash, and pair them with neutral flooring, countertops, and cabinetry. This allows the tiles to be the focal point while maintaining a sense of calm and cohesion in the overall space.
When incorporating mid-century modern tiles, think about the scale of the tiles in relation to the size of your bathroom. Larger format tiles, for example, can make a small bathroom feel more spacious by reducing grout lines and creating a seamless look. On the other hand, smaller tiles like hexagons or penny rounds can be used in larger bathrooms to add detail and visual interest. Keeping the scale and proportion of the tiles in harmony with the room size helps create a balanced and inviting environment.
To add depth and dimension to your bathroom, consider using mid-century modern tiles with interesting textures, finishes, or glazes. Textured tiles can bring a sense of luxury and visual interest to the space, especially when combined with contrasting matte and glossy surfaces. For example, glazed ceramic or porcelain tiles in a soft sheen can be paired with matte tiles to create contrast while maintaining a cohesive design. These textures can break up the uniformity of the space and add subtle character.
Investing in high-quality tiles is key to ensuring that your bathroom not only looks great but also stands the test of time. Mid-century modern tiles, particularly those made from ceramic or porcelain, are durable and resistant to moisture—qualities essential for any bathroom setting. While higher-quality tiles may come with a greater upfront cost, their longevity and enduring style make them a worthwhile investment. Opt for tiles that are easy to clean and maintain to keep your bathroom looking fresh for years to come.
To fully embrace the mid-century modern aesthetic, consider adding vintage touches that tie into the overall tile design. Mid-century modern mirrors with rounded edges, retro-inspired lighting fixtures, or even vintage-style vanities can enhance the visual connection between the tiles and the rest of the bathroom. However, be mindful of not overdoing it—balance these retro elements with contemporary pieces to keep the space feeling updated and functional.
Here are some tips for caring for your tiles:
Mid-century modern bathroom tiles offer a timeless yet fresh approach to bathroom design. By combining classic colors, shapes, and patterns with contemporary elements, you can create a space that honors the past while embracing the present.
An eco-friendly kitchen is helpful to the environment because it helps reduce your carbon footprint. It also helps you save money by conserving resources and reducing utility bills. Here are some ways for you to create an eco-friendly kitchen.
Are you ready to upgrade your kitchen? The return on investment for this area of the home averages between 70 and 80 percent. So updating this room could substantially increase the value of your home if you plan to sell it.
Even if you plan to stay in your home for years to come, it would be a good idea to incorporate eco-friendly updates. These changes will reduce your carbon footprint on the planet and save money on your energy bills and help you make your home healthier for you and your family. Whether you want to do a whole kitchen renovation or incorporate a few small but meaningful tweaks, these are some green home inspiration ideas to help you create a more sustainable kitchen.
One easy way to make a big impact is to start with your kitchen lighting and substitute LED bulbs for your incandescent light bulbs. Although incandescent bulbs are much cheaper than LED bulbs, they end up costing homeowners more in the long run.
While LED bulbs give off heat, they do not produce as much heat as incandescent bulbs or use as much electricity. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, LED bulbs use “75 percent less energy and last 25 to 50 times longer than incandescent lighting.” This can help a homeowner save about $1,000 over a 10-year period. Another important thing to note: As part of the Biden administration’s climate initiatives, incandescent light bulbs will begin to be phased out of manufacturing and sale by July 2023.
Keep in mind that not every LED bulb works in every fixture. As Ray Johnston, a staff scientist at 3M, explains in This Old House Magazine, LED bulbs have “heat sinks” — fins or another way out for the heat generated when energy passes through the semiconductors. While this helps them run cooler and more efficiently, LEDs are more sensitive to their surrounding temperature and need decent airflow to work well. Overheating won’t make a bulb explode, but it will shorten its life — so check the packaging before installing LEDs inside enclosed fixtures or capped recessed lights.
Pro Tip: Heath Eastman, electrical expert on Ask This Old House, explains the efficiency leap: “If we took a 60-watt incandescent to a 60-watt equivalent L.E.D., the L.E.D.’s probably using somewhere around six watts. So it’s almost — it can be up to 10 times more efficient. It’s hard to pass up.”
Gas stoves may have better cooking control, allowing you to prepare plenty of delicious dishes, but they may not be as eco-friendly as once thought. Gas stoves may leak methane from them, even when they are turned off. They also contribute to indoor air pollution, possibly linked to childhood asthma. A much safer and environmentally friendly option is to install an electric stove.
If you are looking for other little ways to go green without a major overhaul, consider upgrading your kitchen faucet. A lot of waste in the home is due to excess water use. Opting for a touchless kitchen faucet can reduce the amount of water used. Also called a smart faucet, this type of faucet is motion sensor- or voice-controlled to automatically turn on and off so you’ll never accidentally leave the water running if you get distracted by a dish burning on the stove or if your child forgets to shut off the faucet.
Because there’s also no need to physically touch any handles, installing one will limit the spread of bacteria and germs when handwashing. It’s important to keep in mind that a touchless faucet requires a power source, either from batteries or an AC transformer, to work. When shopping for one, look for a water flow rate that will give you a gauge of the gallons per minute (GPM). Since the maximum flow rate is 2.2 GPM, you’ll want to choose one that is much lower for the most water efficiency.
Non-renewable countertops aren’t only bad for the environment but can also potentially harbor harmful chemicals within them. But you have many options for kitchen countertops that are easier on the planet. If you like the look of wood, try bamboo, which grows rapidly, so it is a good renewable resource, or reclaimed wood, which is lumber that has been salvaged from barns and other buildings.
Popular countertop materials like marble, granite, or quartz can have a troublesome mining process, and the labor of transporting them requires a lot of energy (and, therefore, a lot of carbon emissions). To lessen the impact, you may want to either seek out a stone that was mined locally or consider more sustainable alternatives, such as recycled glass, composite paper, or stainless steel. Or you always have the option to look for any secondhand material you like and give it a new life in your home.
If you want to convert your kitchen to an eco-friendly one, look no further than right beneath your feet. Bamboo flooring and cork flooring are excellent green options since they both grow relatively quickly, so they are a great renewable resource. Because reusing is always good for the environment, you may want to also think about salvaged materials like recycled tile or reclaimed wood. And don’t discredit linoleum flooring. It may have gotten a bad rap over the years, but this material—comprised of things like linseed oil, cork dust, pine resin, ground limestone, and jute—is a surprisingly eco choice.
Pro Tip: Designer Dana Jones advises that not all bamboo is created equal: “Bamboo is a good sustainable product for a kitchen floor, but to ensure hardness, stability, and clarity, you have to be careful to choose bamboo that has been harvested at maturity, after five or six years of growth. Immature bamboo will not stand up as well to the demands of a kitchen.” She recommends manufacturers like Teragren that offer a palette of prefinished colors.
You may want to consider converting your kitchen appliances to energy-efficient ones when you can. Appliances with the Energy Star rating are government-backed, energy-efficient appliances tested to ensure that they save consumers money and help protect the environment.
For instance, an Energy Star-certified dishwasher costs about $35 per year to run and can save about 3,800 gallons of water over its lifetime. In addition to investing in big-ticket items, like a new oven or refrigerator, be sure also to consider smaller energy-efficient appliances such as microwaves and coffee makers. And to keep your fridge running efficiently, be good about cleaning the condenser coil regularly to ensure it is always running at its optimal level.
Most of the cabinets removed from homes during a renovation end up in a landfill. To prevent your kitchen cabinets from adding to landfill waste, it is a good idea to paint your kitchen cabinets. This will give your kitchen the fresh look you want at a fraction of the cost of replacing cabinets. Painting your cabinets could cost around $100. So not only is this easy on the environment, but it’s also easy on your wallet.
Pro Tip: This Old House painter Mauro Henrique prefers acrylic paints for cabinet projects because they have lower VOCs, dry faster, and are easier to clean up — making them the more eco-friendly choice over alkyd-based alternatives.
You probably already have adopted a recycling area in your home for organizing recyclable materials such as aluminum, glass, and plastic. But if you are looking to support a greener lifestyle for your family, there are other things you can think about recycling, too. For instance, you can consider collecting food waste in a kitchen compost bin.
Not only do compost bins keep food out of landfills, but they will also help enrich the soil. If you don’t have your own garden, many large cities and local farmer’s markets will accept food waste for composting. Don’t forget about reusing. Old glass jars from tomato sauce, for example, can make for great pantry storage containers for dry beans or rice once you peel off the label. And you want to switch to reusable dishcloths to avoid the waste of paper towels.
Pro Tip: Roger Cook, This Old House landscape contractor, advises against building compost bins from pressure-treated wood: “As this wood breaks down, it’s gonna release those chemicals into the compost. And that’s not a good thing.” Instead, consider bins made from recycled plastic, or build your own for free by putting salvaged pallets together from your local recycling center.
We've rounded up our favorite Cyber Monday deals. Take a look at our guides for savings on home goods, appliances, electronics, and more.
We’ve rounded up our favorite Cyber Monday deals on electronics, tools, home products, and more.
Are you looking to save money on your holiday shopping? We’ve made it easy rounding up the This Old House Reviews Team’s favorite Cyber Monday deals on a variety of home products.
We compiled all our favorite deals in one place to make your Black Friday shopping easier this year. Bookmark this page to score amazing deals on your favorite home brands and products!
We’ve compiled our favorite deals in one place. Bookmark this page to access amazing deals on your favorite home brands and products!
TOH general contractor Tom Silva and host Kevin O’Connor work together to build a storage-rich miter saw station from a set of factory toolboxes.
Are you constantly reorganizing your workshop to accommodate your miter saw when you need to use it? Creating a miter saw station can transform your workspace by providing storage and a dedicated area for precise cuts. In this guide, we’ll teach you how to build a miter saw station to streamline your woodworking projects. We’ve also included visual guidance from This Old House general contractor Tom Silva, who demonstrates the construction process in the video above.
Pro Tip: Tom Silva, This Old House general contractor, emphasizes that a stable miter saw setup is essential for precision: “You can shave off little bits until you get a perfect fit.” That kind of fine-tuning is only possible when the saw is mounted securely on a dedicated station rather than balanced on a wobbly surface.
By taking on this project, you’ll create a functional and efficient workspace. Having a dedicated miter saw station offers several benefits, including the following:
Pro Tip: As Norm Abram demonstrated on a This Old House project, a well-designed miter saw station with extension tables and a sliding stop system lets you “pretty much throw your tape measure away.” By locking a stop block along a rail at the desired measurement, you can bring stock up to the stop and cut—producing dozens or even hundreds of identical pieces without re-measuring each one.
Before diving into construction, you’ll need to decide where to set up your miter saw station. Consider the following factors when making your decision:
Pro Tip: Tom Silva, This Old House general contractor, helped a homeowner with a long, narrow garage workshop by focusing on mobility. “Stefani has a long, narrow space, so we made the big tools easy to move around, letting her squeeze her car in,” explains Tom. If your miter saw station shares space with other uses, consider a layout that allows key components to fold or roll out of the way.
Most cutting tasks require an 8-foot-long space at a minimum, but the depth may vary depending on your available space and specific needs. We recommend measuring for a depth of 24–36 inches as that is sufficient for most applications.
Pro Tip: Keep in mind that you’ll need to support the wood’s ends when cutting with a miter saw, since most lumber stock is long. As noted in This Old House Magazine, any infeed and outfeed tables or outriggers you build to catch the wood must match the saw table height—otherwise the blade will bind or kick back. Also, be sure to screw the saw down tight to whatever surface it’s on.
Getting the extension tables perfectly aligned is critical to accurate cuts. As Norm and Tom discussed while building a miter saw station on This Old House, squaring the extension tables in relation to the fence and the table of the miter saw ensures that the work surface is “perfectly flat and square over the entire distance” on both the infeed and outfeed sides. This alignment is what makes the station far more useful than a standalone miter saw.
After you’ve found the right location, gather the following tools and materials to build your miter saw station:
You will also need the following tools for this project:
Start by preparing your base, which will consist of two metal toolboxes connected by plywood sheets. Here’s how to do this:
Silva recommends using temporary spacers so the positioning between the cabinets remains the same as you construct your station.
Once you’ve prepared your base, you can connect your cabinets. This will result in a solid base that you can move easily. Follow these steps:
Now you can create a custom-fit frame to keep your miter saw at the right height so you’re comfortable while you make accurate cuts. Follow these steps to create a sturdy platform for your miter saw:
Constructing a level worktop will ensure accurate cuts. In the video above, Silva uses the butcher-block top because it provides a durable and attractive work surface. Here’s how to install your worktop:
With the station structure complete, it’s time to install your miter saw. For precise alignment and consistent cuts across your projects, follow the instructions below:
You’re now ready to use your new miter saw station, but consider adding the following features for convenience and effectiveness:
Silva also painted the exposed wood black on his station to blend with the metal cabinets and create a more cohesive look.
You can further enhance your station by customizing it according to your needs. Here are a few customization ideas:
Routine maintenance will optimize your miter saw station’s performance and extend its lifespan. Here are some maintenance tips:
Mason Mark McCullough shows host Kevin O’Connor how a homeowner can build their own kit of masonry tools to tackle almost any project around their homes.
Lee shares key tools and products in a winter weather kit; Richard shares a unique water heater; Mark shares homeowner-friendly masonry tools; Tom and Kevin build a new miter saw station.
A custom gutter is recessed into the roof overhang. The neighbor's house, one of three designed and built by the same original architect, is toured. New energy-efficient windows are installed.
Join This Old House's Jenn Nawada as she teams up with two homeowners and a local expert to design and build a rain garden that helps manage stormwater and adds beauty to your landscape.
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Rain gardens are eco-friendly landscaping solutions that use natural plants to manage stormwater runoff. These gardens capture rainwater from roofs, driveways, and other impervious surfaces, and filter it into the ground slowly. They also add natural beauty to yards. Learn how to prepare, install, and maintain your own rain garden in our guide below.
Rain gardens mimic natural water filtration processes. They collect rainwater runoff and guide it into the soil to percolate, which reduces the amount of water that flows directly into storm drains and waterways. This process helps filter out pollutants, recharges groundwater, and offers insects and wildlife additional habitats. Rain gardens don’t require much maintenance.
Pro Tip: David Hymel, who coordinated a rain garden project in Puyallup, Washington, for Stewardship Partners, a Seattle nonprofit, explains the core principle: “The whole idea is to have the water be absorbed back into the ground and filtered naturally, the way it used to be.”
Rain gardens are worth the investment for most homeowners. They manage stormwater efficiently and benefit the environment. Rain gardens can also reduce water-pooling and erosion problems in areas that get frequent rain or areas that face drainage issues.
You’ll need the materials below to start your project:
Pro Tip: Beneath the topsoil, plan for a layer of filter fabric to suppress weeds and a layer of well-draining Class-5 sand. The fabric also prevents the sand from filling the spaces in the stone base below, ensuring your rain garden always has good water-draining capacity. Top it all off with six inches of topsoil for planting native material.
Plan your rain garden very carefully before you start digging. Consider factors such as location, size, and accompanying plant selection before you commit to a model. The rain garden should function efficiently and complement your landscape.
Think about your home’s layout and features when selecting a suitable spot for your rain garden. It must be near a downspout, and it should be at least 10 feet away from your home’s foundation if you have a basement. It should be at least 2 feet away if you don’t. Keep it at least 3 feet away from driveways and streets, and at least 2 or 3 feet away from pathways. The area should have a slight slope that can direct water, but the flow should not be too steep.
The size of your rain garden depends on the amount of runoff you anticipate it will capture. It should be about 10% of the size of the roof area from which it’s capturing water. If your roof area is 350 square feet, for example, your rain garden should be at least 35 square feet.
The right plants can make your rain garden even more successful. The plants must be able to thrive in both wet and dry conditions. Some suitable options are below.
Choose plants that are native to the area if you can, as they will require less maintenance than other types. They will also provide food and habitat for local wildlife, which will enhance your garden’s biodiversity.
Pro Tip: David Hymel, who coordinated a large-scale rain garden project for Stewardship Partners, a Seattle nonprofit, explains that the plants you choose must tolerate having “wet feet”—submerged roots—during rainy weather, yet they must also be able to survive without irrigation in dry spells. It is the combination of hardy plants and soft soil that allows rain gardens to work their magic.
Conducting a percolation test will help you understand your soil’s drainage capability. Here’s how to perform this test:
The ideal drainage rate is at least a 1/2 inch per hour. If your soil doesn’t drain well, you may need to amend it or choose a different location.
Once you land the ideal soil drain rate, use spray paint to outline the shape of your rain garden, and begin digging the basin. Make it deepest in the center, and gradually raise the slope up to the edges. Then, create a berm around the downhill side of the garden using the excavated soil.
Pro Tip: Though you can excavate a small rain garden yourself, a landscaper with an earth-moving machine will get it done faster for larger projects. Make sure machinery stays along the edge of the bed so it doesn’t compact the soil as it digs. The finished basin should have about 6 inches of “ponding depth”—space for water to pool while it drains through 1 to 2 feet of amended soil beneath.
Once you have properly prepared the site, you can begin installing your rain garden. Follow the steps below.
Incorporate a four-way soil mix into your site’s existing soil to improve drainage and provide nutrients for your plants. Loose soil encourages better water filtration and root growth, so avoid compacting the soil.
Follow the steps below to direct water from your downspout to the rain garden:
You can begin planting your rain garden. Follow the steps below.
Finish this process by applying a 2- or 3-inch layer of organic mulch around the plants, which will help them retain moisture and suppress weeds. Use the excavated sod to create a slight berm around the garden’s edge, which will help the garden retain water. Water your new plants regularly during the first growing season.
You’ll only need to perform occasional maintenance on your rain garden once you’ve installed it. Follow the tips below.
If you properly install your rain garden, it should not attract mosquitoes. Rain gardens are designed to drain within 24–48 hours, which is less time than mosquitoes need to complete their breeding cycles. If water stands for longer periods of time, you need to adjust the garden’s depth or improve soil drainage.
Rain gardens are generally low-maintenance, but you may encounter some of the challenges below.
Your rain garden might eventually start to erode around the inlet. Combat this by adding more rocks or plants to slow water flow and stabilize the soil.
Not all plants will thrive in a rain garden. Replace struggling plants with species that are better suited to the area’s specific moisture conditions.
Sediment may accumulate in the inlet area over time. Remove this buildup occasionally to make sure water can flow freely into the garden.
Mason Mark McCullough helps a homeowner install wrought iron railings on his steps to make them safer for children and older adults.
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Installing an iron railing on concrete steps can significantly improve the safety and aesthetics of your home. This project is particularly helpful for families with young children or elderly members—giving them support and stability as they go up and down the stairs. Mark McCullough, a mason from Ask This Old House, shows the process of installing a wrought iron railing on concrete steps to improve safety and add classic style. Learn more in our guide below.
Adding a railing to your concrete steps, even when not required by code, can provide several benefits. This enhancement acts as a safeguard for children and elderly family members, giving them additional support while navigating stairs. It also offers improved stability for all users, making the entrance more accessible.
Beyond safety, an iron railing elevates your home’s curb appeal with a touch of classic style. Wrought iron, in particular, stands out due to its durability and timeless appearance. Before you begin, make sure your plans meet local building codes.
Pro Tip: Tom Silva, This Old House general contractor, notes that code typically requires a railing only when a porch is more than 30 inches above the ground: “But even if the code says you don’t need one, there will be times when you’ll appreciate having a secure handhold.”
In one This Old House project, a homeowner with two young kids described the exact scenario that drives many railing installations: “I have two kids. They come barreling out the door. I’m afraid one of them is gonna take a header off the edge.” Even though the steps were only about 21 inches high—well under the 30-inch code threshold—the crew agreed a railing was the right call. As the installer put it: “As we always say in the business, safety first.”
Selecting the appropriate railing for your concrete steps involves several factors, from material selection to design considerations.
Wrought iron is a prevalent choice for outdoor railings due to its multiple advantages. Its durability and strength make it ideal for withstanding various weather conditions, giving your home a long-lasting fixture. Additionally, its classic and timeless appearance complements a variety of architectural styles.
You can customize wrought iron railings to suit your personal design preferences, allowing you to add unique touches. While wrought iron offers numerous benefits, you can also consider aluminum or steel based on your specific needs or aesthetic preferences.
Choosing the right design for your railing can significantly impact both functionality and aesthetics. First, consider how the design will integrate with existing architectural elements to create a cohesive look. Balancing functionality with aesthetics ensures the railing provides the necessary support without compromising style.
You can incorporate decorative elements, such as twisted pickets, to enhance visual appeal. Lastly, you need to make sure the railing’s height and spacing adhere to safety regulations, preventing accidents and ensuring ease of use. In the video above, the homeowner opts for a design with alternating straight and twisted pickets, complementing his current guardrails while ensuring safety.
Proper preparation is key to a successful railing installation. Follow these steps:
The installation of an iron railing on concrete steps requires a careful approach, precision, and the proper tools. Here’s a step-by-step guide to the process.
Start the installation by drilling holes for the railing posts. Employ a coring drill to make precise holes in the concrete where you will insert the posts. Scoring the surface with the drill initially provides a guide to assist in maintaining accuracy after you turn the drill’s water on.
We recommend a water-cooled drill bit with a “boot” to reduce dust and contain water spray during drilling. Drill to the necessary depth required to secure the posts, keeping in mind that precision is key to a stable final product.
Positioning the railing correctly involves collaboration and careful measurements. With the assistance of a helper, hold the railing in place to check its positioning. The railing shouldn’t obstruct doors and should provide ample space for entry and exit.
Use small wood scraps as shims to keep the railing plumb and straight during the installation process, making sure it’s aligned correctly with a level.
To secure the railing, begin by mixing hydraulic cement to a soupy consistency in a small pail. This mixture will serve as the foundation for the railing. Pour the cement into the drilled holes around the posts, filling the gaps all the way around.
Bevel the tops of the cement to prevent water collection, enhancing the durability of the installation. Wipe the railing posts with a damp sponge to remove any excess cement before it cures.
Pro Tip: Once the hydraulic cement has set up, it is not yet fully cured. Give it a couple of days before putting any stress on the railing—pulling or leaning on it too soon can loosen the posts in their holes and compromise the installation.
After securing the railing, allow the hydraulic cement to cure for at least 24 hours before using the railing. This curing period gets it to maximum strength and stability. Clean any remaining residue from the railing and stairs to enhance the appearance.
Pro Tip: When pouring the hydraulic cement, force it right down into the hole to eliminate any air bubbles. Gaps between the hole and the post can compromise the hold over time. Be sure to leave the cement mounded up against the edge of the post to shed water away from the connection point.
You need to keep your newly installed iron railing in top condition. Regularly inspect the railing for signs of rust or damage, addressing any issues immediately to prolong its lifespan. Cleaning the railing periodically with mild soap and water helps maintain its appearance, removing dirt and grime that could lead to rusting.
Applying a protective coating or paint as needed can provide an additional layer of defense against weathering. Finally, tighten any loose fittings or bolts right away to retain the railing’s structural integrity.
Pro Tip: When rust appears on your iron railing, you don’t need power tools or chemicals to address it. According to This Old House Magazine, a paint scraper works just fine on flat railing sections, while a stiff-bristled wire brush handles curved sections and hard-to-reach areas. Once all loose paint is removed, go over the entire railing with 150-grit sandpaper, sanding the edges of any remaining paint smooth with the bare metal. Replace any badly rusted fasteners with ones made of stainless steel.
When installing an iron railing on concrete steps, there are safety factors to keep in mind. As we stated earlier, make sure the railing meets local building codes for height and spacing.
We recommend regular testing of the railing’s stability to identify any weaknesses or stability issues early. Address any signs of wear or damage immediately to prevent accidents. Consider adding nonslip treads to the steps to enhance safety, especially in wet or icy conditions.
Installing an iron railing on concrete steps is a valuable home improvement project that enhances both safety and aesthetics. With proper planning, tools, and techniques, homeowners can complete this task and enjoy the benefits of a strong, attractive railing for years to come. Remember to prioritize safety, choose quality materials, and maintain the railing regularly to keep it in good condition.
Mark uses a coring drill to install the railing to drill two holes in the top and bottom concrete steps.
Once the railing is dropped in, Mark and the homeowner pour the anchoring cement into each hole. They then clean up any excess cement with a damp sponge. Mark double-checks that the railing is level before it cures.
Special assistance is provided by Forte Iron Work Specialist Inc.
You may choose to rent the coring drill if the job is for one railing.
Discover attractive doorway casing ideas that will enhance the architecture and décor inside your home.
The trim around the doors of your home is a structural element, but it also has distinct decorative attributes. Aesthetically, door trim can reflect the architectural style of the house and the décor of the room it’s in. Functionally, this kind of molding, called doorway casing, fills the gaps between the wall and the door jamb—the frame on which the door is hinged and where the latch engages.
Like crown molding and baseboards, the right doorway casing gives a space a finished, refined appearance. Installing interior door trim is a relatively easy do-it-yourself project that can have a huge impact. Whether you aim to add a classic accent, complement a rustic room, or create a more ornate entrance, you’ll find valuable info and ample inspiration in this guide to door adornment.
Doorway casing consists of three strips of material, usually wood boards: two long pieces installed vertically and a horizontal head casing that goes along the top to perfectly surround the door. The boards can be flat or have a shapely profile, and they are milled to be slightly thinner on the edge placed toward the inside of the door frame. Door trim boards are generally between 2¼ inches and 3½ inches wide.
Doorway casing may be made of natural or synthetic materials.
Prices for paint-grade wood door trim may start as low as about $0.75 per linear foot, but hardwood can be as much as $10 per foot. MDF can range from $0.60 to $6 per linear foot. No matter the material, the wider or more detailed the trim, the costlier it becomes. For easier installation, DIYers can find pre-cut, pre-primed door trim at home improvement stores.
Door casing generally falls into two main categories: mitered and butted. Each style offers distinct advantages and suits different architectural preferences.
With mitered trim, the pieces connect above the door along 45-degree angled (i.e., mitered) joints. Mitered casings look sharp and neat, so they tend to suit modern settings as well as rooms with lower ceilings. Though the look is simple, cutting mitered angles precisely and connecting them can be tricky, making for a somewhat more challenging DIY project. If you want a professional-looking mitered finish, we recommend hiring an expert for best results.
With butted trim, the header sits straight across the top of the side pieces. Butted trim allows for more customization, especially in terms of wider, longer, or more detailed head casing. This aspect of butted trim makes it suited to higher ceilings, since it draws the eye upward. While butted trim can be visually more complex, installing it tends to be an easier DIY job, since there are no angles to cut and join.
Here’s a look at some popular styles to suit various architectural designs and personal preferences. You’ll find a casing for any vision, from timeless elegance to modern simplicity.
Colonial-style door casing embodies traditional elegance, perfect for homes with classic architecture. The cove-and-bead profile is a hallmark of this style, offering subtle decorative detail that enhances traditional settings without overwhelming the space. This profile typically features a concave curve (the cove) followed by a small, rounded projection (the bead), creating a timeless look that complements both formal and casual interiors.
For those seeking a bit more visual interest, the ripple effect is an excellent choice within the Colonial style. This technique involves building out mitered corners from the door jamb using boards of varying widths. The result is a layered, dimensional look that adds depth to the room while maintaining a classic aesthetic. This approach works particularly well in spaces with ample wall area around the door, allowing the trim to become a focal point.
Pro Tip: As This Old House Magazine notes, tapered casings were common in Federal and Italianate homes, as well as in the later Greek Revival and Colonial Revival styles. These casings were typically made by building up several profiles, working from the jamb outward and joining the head and leg pieces with mitered cuts—a construction method that distinguishes them from the symmetrical, uniform-thickness casings found in Victorian-era homes of the late 1800s.
Victorian-era homes are known for their ornate woodwork, and door casing is no exception. Fluted door trim is a quintessential Victorian style, featuring narrow ribs or ridges that run the length of the trim boards. This detailing adds texture and visual interest, often complemented by an even more elaborate header piece.
Rosettes are another distinctive feature of Victorian door casing. These decorative corner blocks traditionally feature a carved flower design in the center, though modern interpretations may include other motifs such as concentric circles, stars, or even animal imagery. Rosettes serve both a decorative and practical purpose, eliminating the need for precise mitered corners while adding a touch of elegance to the doorway.
Pro Tip: Victorian-style casings were also distinctive in their symmetrical construction. As described in This Old House Magazine, Victorian styles are often symmetrical and therefore thick at both edges, unlike traditional casings that are typically thin where they meet a door opening and get thicker toward the opposite edge. Rosettes, a Victorian invention, were meant to speed casing installation by eliminating miter joints.
In rustic or farmhouse-style homes, simplicity often reigns supreme. Straight-lined trim with a visible wood grain can beautifully complement the homey atmosphere of a country-inspired space. Opting for wood with natural knots and a distinct grain pattern adds character and warmth to the room, enhancing the overall rustic aesthetic.
For a bolder look, consider installing side casing pieces on rectangular plinth blocks. This technique adds visual weight to the bottom of the doorway, grounding the trim and creating a sturdy, substantial appearance that fits well with farmhouse decor. Plinth blocks can be simple or decorative, depending on the desired level of detail.
Craftsman-style homes often feature chunky door trim, typically 4 inches or wider. This bold casing style makes a strong statement while maintaining clean lines, perfectly aligning with the Craftsman emphasis on quality craftsmanship and natural materials. When opting for this style, ensure that the surrounding furniture and decor have similarly chunky proportions to create a cohesive look.
For modern and contemporary homes, flat door casing offers a sleek, unobtrusive option. True to its name, this style lacks any profile or shape, creating a clean border around the door that blends seamlessly with minimalist decor. Those looking to add a subtle twist to flat casing might consider a flat-mitered installation. By installing the boards at an angle, you can create a beveled effect that adds depth and interest while maintaining a fuss-free style.
Alternatively, for the ultimate in minimalism, consider ultra-narrow door casing or even omitting the trim entirely. Slim trim creates an almost invisible transition between the door and wall, while going trim-free allows the door to blend completely with its surroundings. This can be especially effective for concealing access to utility areas or creating a seamless look in open-concept spaces, allowing the door to nearly disappear into the wall.
For those willing to think outside the box, door casing doesn’t have to be limited to wood or wood-like materials. Tile trim is playful and unexpected—and it’s certainly a smart choice for a moisture-prone space like a bathroom. This approach allows for creative use of color, pattern, and texture, turning the door casing into a true design feature.
Marble casing represents the height of luxury in door trim options. While certainly a bold choice, marble casing can create a stunning, majestic impression in the right setting. This option works particularly well in high-end homes or as a focal point in entryways, adding an element of grandeur to the space.
The color of your door casing can significantly impact its overall effect in the room. Traditionally, doorway casing is painted in a contrasting or complementary shade to the walls, allowing it to stand out as a decorative element. This approach can help define doorways and add visual interest to the space. For a cohesive look, paint all the molding in the room, including baseboards and crown molding, in the same color as the door casing.
A more modern approach is “color drenching,” where the door casing is painted the same color as the walls and other elements in the room. This monochromatic scheme creates a seamless, contemporary look that can make a space feel larger and more unified. Color drenching works particularly well in smaller rooms.
From traditional Colonial and Victorian designs to modern minimalist approaches, the right trim can significantly impact your space’s overall look and feel. Consider your home’s architecture, your personal style, and the function of each room when selecting door casing. Whether you opt for classic wood, unconventional materials, or a painted finish, the perfect door trim can elevate your interior design and add value to your home.
This new alternative to gas generators makes it push-button easy to get the lights back on when the power goes out.
This article appeared in the Fall 2023 issue of This Old House Magazine.
For years, losing power because of a storm or stressed infrastructure has usually meant keeping a gas generator on standby to get essentials up and running. While those gas-guzzling power plants deliver reliable energy, they come with several trade-offs: emissions, noise, maintenance, and a fussy starting procedure that worsens after long stints in the garage. But now there’s an option that behaves a lot like an electric vehicle (EV) or a battery-powered lawn mower. These “portable power stations” have a battery core that can run a range of household appliances and devices.
On the less demanding side, they’re powerful enough to keep electronics—laptops, tablets, phones, and TVs—going for hours during an outage or a seasonal brownout. Paired with supplemental batteries and plug-in solar panels, they can become a capable, reliable system that can run a home’s largest appliances for days—emissions-free, quiet, with nary a spark plug to check, and with the push of a button.
Whether you want to keep the fridge and a few lights running for 24 hours or the entire kitchen for a few days, there is a system to suit your needs. Here’s what you need to know to choose the right one.
While a portable power station offers push-button reliability, it isn’t the solution for every situation.
Connecting to supplemental batteries helps scale up a portable power station to meet the demands of more devices or to extend run time.
Many power stations can essentially double their capacity with an additional battery—essentially the same battery without the extra electronics. These also add weight—around 50 pounds or more—and cost. But not all power stations can add more than one, which is a key distinction if you want to power lots of appliances or specific circuits, like for a whole kitchen or bathroom.
Some models can support up to four supplemental batteries; some can daisy chain to a second power station and its set of extra batteries. Expect to pay about 75 percent of the cost of the portable power station for an expansion battery. Adding one or two supplemental batteries for more capacity and enough solar panels to juice up the portable power station in a few hours can easily double or triple the cost.
Barry Cinnamon, a solar installer and energy podcaster based in Los Gatos, CA, advises thinking ahead when sizing any energy system—including portable power stations. As he told This Old House Magazine, expanding an existing system later “can be costly and problematic.” The same logic applies here: it’s smarter to anticipate your power needs upfront and choose a station that supports enough supplemental batteries, rather than replacing the entire unit down the road.
Pro Tip: Sam, a battery storage specialist featured on This Old House, explains the importance of planning for your actual needs rather than maxing out capacity: “What we like to do is set up a backup load panel or an essential load panel, so you take your bare essentials, what you need—boiler, a fridge, lights.” The same principle applies to portable power stations—before investing in supplemental batteries, identify the loads you truly need to run, since powering an entire house “would be a lot” and “you’d drain the battery pretty quick.”
Portable power stations rely on various battery chemistries to provide juice—be sure to find out what a model uses before you buy. Below are the main types, each with its own pluses and minuses.
While lithium ion is the same form found in cordless tools and smartphones, it’s less common in bigger portable power stations that back up major appliances. Since it’s well established, lithium ion also tends to be less expensive per watt-hour. But manufacturers have moved away from it over the past few years because of its reputation for potentially combusting under heavy draw, its shorter cycle life, and its temperature sensitivity. The depth of discharge (DoD), which is the percentage of the cell that can be used before requiring a recharge, is 80 to 95 percent.
Pro Tip: Temperature management matters even when you’re not using the unit. As This Old House Magazine advises for lithium-ion cells: charge a cool—not cold—battery for the most complete charge, and once charged, store it in a cool place. Avoid charging a warm battery or leaving it in storage extremes, as both habits shorten cycle life.
A newer version of lithium ion, LFP relies on iron phosphate, rather than cobalt oxide, at the ends of the battery cell. LFP chemistry has the edge when it comes to how many charge cycles it can handle. Lithium ion tends to step down to 80 percent of its original capacity after about 500 cycles, whereas LFP will last for 3,000 or more before reaching the same point.
While they can be pricier than lithium ion, LFP batteries withstand more extreme temperatures—from about −4 to 140 degrees F—and are much less susceptible to overheating and igniting. LFP batteries can also reach 100 percent depth of discharge before requiring a recharge.
Unlike traditional lithium ion or LFP, a pouch-style semisolid-state battery does not rely on a liquid electrolyte solution to separate the two ends of a cell—at least not long-term. In a semisolid-state battery, that liquid inside thickens over time into a paste.
That conversion fills every nook and cranny inside the battery. Compared with lithium ion, these batteries are more stable, especially if they’re damaged or dropped, and the chemistry offers more energy density than others. But the technology is relatively new, so cells cost more and might not outlast the life cycle of LFP batteries, though they have a similar depth of discharge rate.
One of the oldest forms, lead acid batteries are in virtually every car. This chemistry is inexpensive, safe, and reliable, but it lacks the long-term durability of lithium ion, which can last hundreds of more cycles. Its depth of discharge is around 50 percent, so these usually need expansion batteries or solar panels to make them a viable option.
Larger-capacity portable power stations suitable for backup power range from 2,048 to over 6,000 watt-hours, which can run a typical refrigerator from about 12 to 38 hours before they require recharging. Expansion batteries can often double the watt-hours and run time, and plug-in solar panels keep them charged while you’re off the grid.
Along with most smaller electronic devices, like smartphones, tablets, and laptops, portable power stations can handle the load of larger household appliances like sump pumps, window air conditioners, and furnace fans. How long they can run higher-draw appliances depends on the battery capacity.
Prices start at about $2,000 for a power station with 2,048 watt-hours and climb to about $5,400 for one with two and a half times as much power. Generally, expect to pay about $1 per watt-hour. Most manufacturers offer an expansion battery; this add-on costs less than the base station, which has plugs, ports, and controls.
Warranties for portable power stations and their expansion batteries range from one to five years. Some manufacturers offer an extended warranty that adds an additional two or three years. Solar panels are usually warranted for one to three years.
Picking the right product means assessing your wattage needs. Here’s what to know.
Sizing a portable power station, as with a gas generator, comes down to having a unit that can cover the total wattage you need to run essentials. Where it differs from a gas generator is in understanding watt hours (Wh), too. Watts describe the power supplied by the batteries. Watt-hours convert that into power consumption over a period of time. Watts tell you everything the battery can power simultaneously; watt- hours show you how long the juice will last once all the things plugged into it are running. Watt-hours are often less of a consideration with gas generators because they are faster to refuel. Like taking an EV on a road trip, using a portable power station requires planning to execute extended run time with solar panels and/or additional batteries.
Tying a portable power station directly into your home’s electrical system means less downtime in a storm. An electrician wires a secondary switch box near the main circuit panel, allowing you to flip to battery power when the grid is down. This configuration lets homeowners decide which circuits are critical to power in an outage, like a furnace, certain lights, or outlets in the kitchen, and turn them on quickly literally with the flip of a switch. As with a gas generator, however, this is an option available only with some models.
For appliances that have a motor—refrigerators and HVAC equipment—there is running wattage, the power they need to keep working, and starting or surge wattage, the high initial draw to get things started. If an appliance doesn’t list starting wattage, triple the listed wattage as an estimate. Factoring in starting wattage is key to keeping a power station from being overwhelmed, and shutting off like a tripped breaker.
Before adding up the power draw of all the appliances you want to run, it’s helpful to have these two formulas on hand:
The watt usage listed on a device is the amount of power drawn for a single hour. For some appliances, knowing the watts used in an hour is important, like a coffee maker or a toaster oven, which runs for infrequent bursts. For others, like a refrigerator, you’ll want to calculate the watt-hours to figure out how much power they draw over an entire day.
List all the essential appliances you want to run in a power outage. Find the watts of all the devices, including the starting wattage of bigger essentials like a refrigerator, a furnace fan, or a sump pump. Check the appliance’s sticker or owner’s manual, or search for it online using the model number. Add the watts together, adding in the highest starting wattage of the biggest appliance. That sum is the total wattage you need in an hour’s time. Now multiply that by 24 to get an idea of how much power you need to run everything for a full day. This equation is an estimate, of course, since most appliances are not running for 24 hours.
Paying attention to these details can help you choose the best product for your needs.
These power stations may weigh less than a gas generator with similar watts, but at about 70 to more than 180 pounds, they may still require an extra set of hands to get up and down stairs. Wheels and a handle can make them easier to move around inside—or outside—the house.
A bright LCD display lets you know how much run time is left. Just like a smartphone, it also lets you know, based on what’ s plugged in, what percentage of battery remains and, when charging, spells out how much time remains until full power. Often an LED bar on top makes it easier to find and use the station in the dark.
Most stations have a dedicated app that connects via Bluetooth and not Wi-Fi, so it works even without an Internet connection. It can let you know at a glance how much power is left and allows you to turn plugs and ports on or off remotely.
The ability to draw power from a battery while it’s charging is an important feature, especially for longer stints of use. Many power stations support pass-through power so you can run devices while the battery is receiving a charge through the wall or solar panels.
Like a screen saver for a laptop, a power-conservation or eco mode shuts down the flow of energy once a connected USB device, like a tablet or smartphone, is fully charged. Some 120-volt plugs also have this feature for larger battery-powered devices, like a laptop.
Supplemental batteries that have their own USB ports add versatility to a system because you can charge devices away from the main power station.
Power-tool companies offer portable power solutions of their own. While most can’t recharge through solar, they can help out during a storm.
These are the backbone of any power station. Most have three or four, rated for typical 15-amp appliances. Some plugs have a T shape on one of the prongs, signaling that the circuit is rated for 20 amps, higher than a typical household plug. These deliver more power to demanding appliances like refrigerators, microwaves, and toasters without stressing the system.
These round outlets are designed to handle the draw of the biggest appliances, like freezers, window air conditioners, dryers, and sump pumps. You can convert these outlets to the more common ones with an adapter that accepts a standard plug.
RV owners use this large, round plug to power systems inside, like a refrigerator and HVAC equipment, without a connection at a campsite. At home, this port also connects the portable power station to a transfer switch. With an adapter, it can charge an EV in a pinch, too.
Typically, portable power stations have both USB-A and USB-C ports clustered together. Some USB-C ports are quick-charging to deliver more power. Nearly any small electronic device you need to power can plug right into these ports without taking up a traditional outlet with the transformer brick.
This round socket—sometimes called a cigarette-lighter port—accepts car plugs to power devices commonly found in an RV, like a small refrigerator or kettle. You can also pop in an adapter with USB ports to expand its ability to charge smaller electronic items.
While not common, some portable power stations have an area on top that wirelessly charges devices like smartphones, earbuds, and speakers.
Cost: $1,999
With a 2,048-watt-hour, lithium-iron-phosphate-battery, this station is easy to move and has a user-friendly dashboard. Add one expansion battery for a total of 4,096 watt-hours; four 120-volt outlets handle a suite of kitchen appliances. The TT-30 port powers an RV.
Cost: $3,699
Alone, the lithium- iron-phosphate battery provides 3,600 watt- hours; add two external batteries to handle a whole kitchen, or daisy chain a second power station for up to 25,000 watt-hours—ideal with a wired transfer switch to dedicated circuits.
Cost: $6,999
This semisolid-state battery offers more energy density—at a price. Its 6,438 watt-hours can run a larger
appliance like an AC unit. It accepts up to four more batteries; two stations together can power an entire home with up to 64,000 watt-hours.
Read our guide to see what it takes to install and maintain an asphalt driveway.
Asphalt driveways deliver long-lasting durability and can stand up to decades of heavy use. With proper installation and regular maintenance, you can boost your home’s curb appeal and create a smooth, reliable surface for years to come. In this guide, we walk you through how to plan, build, and maintain an asphalt driveway, along with tips from This Old House experts for ongoing care and fixing common issues.
Before undertaking an asphalt driveway project, learn about the pros and cons to help you make sure it’s the right choice for your home.
Expert insights: According to Richard Valero, a driveway contractor featured in This Old House Magazine, a well-drained asphalt drive laid over properly compacted gravel will last 25 to 30 years, which is significantly longer than the commonly cited 15- to 20-year estimate. The groundwork must be done right, he added. Ground preparation is the single biggest factor in how long any driveway surface will last.
To repave an asphalt driveway that’s deteriorated beyond repair, a contractor will come in with a compact loader, or “Bobcat,” lift off the old asphalt, and dump it into a truck parked on the street to be carted away and recycled. The contractor will top off the aggregate sub-base of crushed stone, rake it flat, pitch it so water drains away from the house with a 2% cross-slope, and then compact it using a steel-wheeled roller and a vibrating compactor. The next day, a load of hot asphalt, typically about 300°F, will be laid using an adjustable-width paving machine and compressed and smoothed with a steel-wheeled roller and vibrating plate compactor. Depending on the thickness of the asphalt—a judgment call based largely on the thickness of the base course—you may need two layers.
Once you’ve decided you want to install an asphalt driveway, this section will guide you through the steps to prepare for your project.
Tip: Maintaining temperature on raw asphalt is critical, according to Chuck Driscoll, the head of a paving crew featured in This Old House’s television series. If the asphalt cools too much before it’s laid and compacted, it won’t bond properly, and the surface can fail prematurely, he added.
Before installation, evaluate your property to make sure it’s suitable for an asphalt driveway:
Tip: This Old House landscape architect Tom Wirth advises that drives should be at least 10 to 12 feet wide at straight runs and 14 feet wide at curves. If the driveway is long, provide a 12-by-18-foot (or larger) space at the top for turning around, which can double as guest parking.
Asphalt driveway costs can vary depending on several factors:
On average, expect to pay between $7 and $13 per square foot for a new asphalt driveway installation.
Note: The cost information featured in this guide is based on reports from Angiand Asphalt Industrial, unless otherwise noted.
Blacktop is a combination of liquid asphalt and small-stone aggregate—sometimes with additives for strength, flexibility, and water resistance. Whether you’re replacing asphalt or installing it for the first time, it pays to understand what goes into a proper installation. When comparing different driveway materials, asphalt’s layered construction offers unique benefits for durability and maintenance.”
A) Subgrade: For a new driveway installation, the site should be excavated deep enough to match the thickness of the driveway’s components. We’re using 12 inches here, but the depth can vary depending on local soil conditions, so the finished surface will align with the lawn, walkways, garage entrance, and so forth. Then, the soil gets compacted. For asphalt replacements, though, the subgrade typically doesn’t need any work.
B) Sub-base: This should be 8 inches of crushed stone, which is a product that has been fractured so it has angular edges that interlock under compression. The best option is aggregate base course, also known as“crusher run,” a mix of stone of every size from about 3/8 inch down to stone dust, so it knits together extremely well. “The idea is to compact it so well that it’s watertight,” says This Old House mason Mark McCullough.
C) Binder course of asphalt: Depending on the depth of the aggregate base—every additional 3 inches of aggregate generally means 1 inch less of asphalt—the asphalt is ideally put down in two layers. The first is a binder course, which contains 2 1/2 inches of 5/8-inch aggregate. The binder course gets flattened and compressed with a steel roller and a vibrating plate compactor where the roller won’t go. It is then raked to give it a textured finish that will provide good adhesion with the next course.
D) Finish course of asphalt: The surface course, or topcoat, can be installed immediately, but if there will be construction vehicles using the driveway during a large-scale renovation, it’s common to wait until any home improvement projects are complete. This 1 1/2-inch layer contains 3/8-inch aggregate. It gets flattened and compressed with a steel roller and a vibrating plate compactor where the roller won’t go, and the edges get compacted using specialized hand tools for a flat, smooth, watertight finish.
Understanding the installation process can help you make sure your contractor is following best practices. Here’s an overview of the typical steps involved in asphalt driveway installation.
The first step in the installation is preparing the site:
A solid foundation is required for a long-lasting asphalt driveway:
The final stage involves laying and compacting the asphalt:
Regular care can prevent minor issues from becoming major problems. Here are some best practices to keep your driveway in tip-top shape.
Sealing protects your driveway from water damage and UV rays. Follow these tips:
Seal your driveway every 3-5 years or when the surface begins to look gray and worn.
Tip: Jim Capone, the owner of a driveway sealing company, recommends using a commercial degreaser on stains before sealing, but cautions homeowners to check the label and avoid products that contain “petroleum distillates,” since those contain the very substance you’re trying to keep off the driveway.
Repairing cracks and potholes promptly can prevent more extensive damage. Here’s how:
Asphalt driveways are typically plain black, but there are ways to improve the appearance and better complement your home.
Add visual interest to your driveway with these edging ideas:
Thoughtful landscaping can soften the look of your asphalt driveway:
Here are some other ideas from McCullough to inspire your asphalt driveway project.
Here are McCullough’s steps for addressing cracks and other imperfections that may happen from wear and tear.
To fix a crack, first clean out any debris, dirt, and plant material. If it’s a hairline crack, use an angle grinder with a masonry bit to widen the crack to the width of the blade. Fill the crack with a melt-in crack filler, which is a cord that you press into the crack and then melt with a propane torch. Cover that with a trowel on asphalt-patching material, and melt that in place with the propane torch.
Home centers offer all the supplies you’ll need, and each product has its own specific instructions. To fill a driveway divot, you’ll want to cut even edges around the damaged area using a circular saw fitted with a masonry blade; then lay down a couple of inches of stone and compact it with a hand tamper. Add a wood form if the repair is at the edge of the driveway, then fill the void with a cold asphalt patch, which comes as a ready-to-use bagged product designed to provide a flexible repair. Make sure to overfill the hole by 2 to 3 inches, then compact it with a hand tamper. Finally, lay plywood over the top and drive the car over it a few times to compress the patch as much as possible.
Even well-maintained asphalt driveways can develop problems over time. Knowing how to address these issues can help extend your driveway’s lifespan.
Poor drainage can lead to premature deterioration of your driveway:
The edges of asphalt driveways are often the first areas to show damage:
Weeds and moss can infiltrate asphalt driveways, especially if there are cracks or weak spots on the surface. Here’s how to keep your driveway clear from invasive growth:
As environmental concerns grow, more homeowners are looking for sustainable driveway options. Asphalt can be an eco-friendly choice when certain techniques and materials are used.
Porous asphalt allows water to drain through the surface, reducing runoff. Here are some of the pros and cons:
Using recycled materials in your asphalt mix can reduce your environmental impact. Here’s what to know:
You can also incorporate sustainable practices during installation process, such as the following:
Proper care in the winter is crucial for an asphalt driveway, especially in colder climates.
Freeze-thaw cycles can cause significant damage to asphalt. Here’s how to prevent it:
Proper snow and ice management can also prevent damage. Follow these tips:
Standard rock salt isn’t ideal for asphalt driveways because it’s corrosive Here are some safer alternatives:
Here are the steps McCullough recommends taking when looking for a good paving contractor.
Don’t rely on the internet to find contractors. Visit a local, independent supply yard for asphalt (or whatever paving material you’re installing), and ask at the desk who the best residential contractors are. “They know who’s always got jobs, who’s keeping a big crew of experienced guys employed, who’s reliable about paying their bills,” McCullough explains.
“I remember when you could get three bids, all the prices would be similar, they’d all be serious contractors, and you could safely select the low bidder. Now I see people get into trouble with the wrong contractor on a weekly basis.”—TOH Mason Mark McCullough
When you meet the contractors, they should be willing to take the time to talk through their process, explain in detail what they’ll use for a base course and how thick it will be, tell you whether they’ll use two courses of asphalt, and so on. And a contractor should be wearing boots, driving a truck, and have strong, calloused hands. “If he shows up in a Cadillac and dress shoes, this is not your guy,” McCullough says.
Ask for some recent customers—some with just-completed projects and some that are a few years old—and try to meet them in person to ask about working with the contractor and whether they would do so again while checking out the work firsthand.
Asphalt needs to be seal-coated, McCullough says. Not right after it’s installed, but within five years or so, the liquid asphalt gets depleted by the elements. “Once it goes from black to gray, it’s time to seal.” McCullough says the DIY products sold at the home center—bituminous or acrylic-based liquids that dry in place—are just as good as what the pros use. “The advantage of hiring it out is that you won’t be covered in asphalt sealer,” he adds.
The coating protects the asphalt from water and ultraviolet light; it also blackens the graying surface, which many people like. You’ll need to clip away an overhanging grass, clean the surface with a degreaser, paint primer over any stains, cut in the edges with a brush, and mop down the sealer over the rest of the driveway. Plan to throw away the clothes you wear, including your gloves, McCullough says.
Join the This Old House team as we follow an extensive renovation to make life easier for one young boy and his family. The team aims to make their home safer, more accessible, and easier to navigate for anyone with a mobility challenge, and the transformation of this modern midcentury home will be life-changing.
Individuals with mobility issues have specific needs that many non-disabled people don’t fully realize. While a typical home can include stairs, thresholds, uneven floors, tubs, and tall appliances, these features can make moving around difficult and unsafe for those who experience mobility challenges.
For Michelle Werner and Billy Lester of Lexington, Massachusetts, these standard features create dangerous and difficult barriers for their 13-year-old son, Caffrey. Inspired by their story, the team at This Old House wanted to document the renovation of their house to highlight accessibility features that will give Caffrey full access to his home. As we get started on this project, we wanted to take the time to share more information about Caffrey’s disease, called Duchenne muscular dystrophy.
Even when Caffrey was a baby, Michelle and Billy noticed that he was slow to reach the physical milestones, such as rolling over, sitting up, and other gross motor skills, at the expected stages. At around 9 months old, Caffrey was diagnosed with hypertonia, which causes low muscle tone. His doctor told Billy and Michelle that their son would catch up to his peers in his own time.
As the years progressed, Caffrey continued to struggle to meet milestones, including activities like riding a bike. After many additional trips to specialists and pediatricians and undergoing several medical tests, Caffrey was officially diagnosed with Duchenne muscular dystrophy when he was around 10 years old.
Duchenne muscular dystrophy (DMD) is a rare genetic disorder that causes progressive muscle degeneration and affects fewer than 50,000 people in the U.S., according to the Genetic and Rare Diseases Information Center.
In a typical body, whenever muscles are used—whether during exercising, walking, or even simple bodily functions like breathing or pumping blood—tissues break down. To repair themselves, muscle fibers require a protein called dystrophin. Dystrophin is missing in individuals who have DMD, which prevents their muscles from functioning or repairing themselves properly.
With this degenerative disease, the muscles lose strength, function, and flexibility over time. Eventually, as the critical muscles weaken, people with DMD find walking, standing, or breathing harder to do. These are the challenges that Caffrey faces, and because of his initial diagnosis of hypertonia, the early therapy he received may have caused the disease to progress more rapidly. Another unfortunate consequence is that he was unable to enter clinical trials at 10 years old.
When Michelle changed careers from pharmaceuticals to biotech, the family moved from New Jersey to be close to the Cambridge, Massachusetts area, which is a hub for biotech companies. They bought a spacious midcentury modern-style home in nearby Lexington, Massachusetts. While the home has plenty of room for the family’s three children, the design of the house presents some accessibility issues.
Originally built in 1960, the family’s home saw several additions over the years. The sprawling house left the home feeling disjointed and lacking much flow or cohesiveness from one addition to the next. For instance, the addition of the three-car garage with a primary suite above it is on the other side of the house from the kids’ bedrooms.
But the home’s additions also hugely impact Caffrey and his daily life. Floor heights change frequently when moving from space to space, creating tall thresholds that Caffrey’s condition will thwart him from navigating. Caffrey is also expected to be wheelchair-bound within a year, preventing him from moving from floor to floor via stairs. While Billy happily carries him now, the wheelchair will soon make this impossible.
Then, there are all the small details that will affect his day-to-day living. Light switches, faucets, and doors will become difficult for Caffrey to operate, removing any chance of independence he may have within his own home.
Recognizing that Caffrey and his family have specific needs, the architects at Ruhl Jahnes and Silva Brothers Construction are stepping up to change their home—and their lives—in the process. There are many modifications on the docket to improve the entire flow of the home, most of which will make Caffrey’s life a bit easier as he deals with the challenges of Duchenne muscular dystrophy.
Watch season 45 of This Old House as the team works to make a mid-century home more accessible. Between the significant structural renovations and the implementation of the latest in accessibility and technology, this family of five will soon be able to live, work, and play together.
Season 45 of This Old House is now airing on PBS (check your local listings) and streaming free on The Roku Channel.
This Old House DIY expert and House One editor Jenn Largesse shows how to build a rolling kitchen cart with a butcher-block top.
“We could use just a bit more counter space,” I said to my husband as I stood and looked around our kitchen. He laughed. After all, I had just spent months completely remodeling the space—building new upper cabinets, demoing a pantry wall, replacing the backsplash, installing flooring and lighting, and then having it painted when the work was done.
But while I was a bit tired from the nonstop projects, I knew the space was calling for a kitchen cart. So, I headed back into my workshop.
The result? A 25-by-50-inch butcher-block work surface atop a sturdy open-frame cart with tapered legs, a slatted shelf, hooks and a towel bar for hanging storage, and heavy-duty locking casters so it’s easy to glide out of the way should a smidge more space be needed for, say, a family dance party. At just under $200 for materials, this last kitchen project was well worth the extra effort. Read on to see how you can make one of your own.
When designing a kitchen around a fixed island, a good rule of thumb is to allow at least 36 inches of clearance on all sides. But since this cart can be wheeled around, I threw the rule out the window and sized the base to accommodate an off-the-shelf butcher-block top that I found at my local home center.
At only $80, the 1½-inch-thick, 25-by-50-inch unfinished butcher-block top was a much more affordable solution than buying a quartzite slab to match our countertops. I chose a stain that complemented my kitchen’s color palette to finish it.
If you plan to use your butcher-block top as a cutting surface, consider finishing it with mineral oil instead of stain or urethane. As Tommy explains on This Old House, “Because we’re gonna use it as a cutting surface, we wanna use mineral oil, and because we’re using mineral oil, you’ll have to reapply it a few times a year.” It’s a food-safe option that’s easy to maintain—just plan on refreshing the finish periodically.
Use a miter saw to cut the legs and rails to length following the cut list at www.thisoldhouse.com. Next, lay out the taper on each leg following the measurements on the illustration at left; then, use a saw guide and a circular saw to cut along the line. Using a pocket-hole jig, drill the pocket holes as indicated on the drawing.
Pro Tip: When setting up your taper cut, start the taper about 8 inches from the leg’s end, leaving the upper portion at full width. This approach keeps the leg sturdy where it meets the rails while giving it an elegant, tapered profile below. After cutting the first taper, rotate the leg a quarter turn and put it back in the jig to cut the second taper on the adjacent inward-facing side. Use sandpaper to smooth all the cut sides and ease the sharp edges.
On this project, each leg was ripped from a 4×4 down to 2¼ inches square before tapering. The taper was set at 2.75 degrees on the two inward-facing sides of each lower leg, resulting in a leg that reads as full-width at the rail joints but narrows gracefully toward the floor—a small detail that gives the island a lighter, more refined look despite its sturdy construction.
Place a long rail between two legs, clamped with the tapered edges facing inward. Using wood glue and 1¼-inch pocket-hole screws, attach the rail flush with the tops of the legs. Repeat with the remaining pair of legs and long rail.
Draw a line 3 inches up from the bottom of each leg. Next, position a long stretcher under a leg assembly so that its bottom edge touches the line and mark out the miter angle. Using the line, cut the rail to fit, then drill the pocket holes and attach it to the legs. Repeat with the opposite side.
Using glue and pocket-hole screws, attach the short rails and stretchers to a leg assembly. Make sure that the edges align with the previously installed boards. Flip the assembly over and screw the rails and stretcher to the remaining leg assembly.
Cut the cleats to fit. Using a spacer to ensure that the shelf boards will sit flush with the stretcher, attach the cleats to the stretchers with glue and 1¼-inch nails.
Install the slats from the outside in. First, use a jigsaw to notch the outermost slats so that they fit around the legs. Next, dry-fit the slats to check the spacing—aim for ¾-inch gaps—and then secure them to the cleats with glue and nails.
Pro Tip: When gluing slats to the cleats, use tile spacers to maintain consistent gaps between each slat. This simple trick ensures even spacing across the entire shelf without the need to measure each gap individually.
Fill screw holes, sand, and then paint the base. Next, install a towel bar (I used a long cabinet pull) on one end and hooks along the front. Drill a hole in the bottom of each leg, tap in a tee nut until it sits flush with the wood, and then thread the casters into the tee nuts.
Finish the butcher block with one coat of stain and two coats of polyurethane. Once dry, set it upside down on your work surface on a towel to prevent scratches. To attach the base, drill recesses in the rails for the figure-eight fasteners, as shown on the illustration.
Adjust the depth so that the fasteners are flush with the top edge. Center the base on the top, and attach it with ¾-inch screws. Flip the cart over, and it’s ready to roll.
With these tips, you can enjoy your pollen-free patio furniture all season long.
Spring and summer bring warm weather and blooming gardens, but they also usher in pollen season. This fine yellow dust settles on everything outside, including your patio furniture. Luckily, removing pollen isn’t difficult. Let’s go over some effective ways to clean pollen from different types of patio furniture so you can enjoy your outdoor space without the yellow haze.
Pollen is a fine powder produced by trees, grasses, and weeds for plant reproduction. During peak pollen seasons, it covers your outdoor surfaces with a thin yellow film. This affects the appearance of your patio furniture and can trigger allergies, making your outdoor space less inviting.
Because pollen is sticky, it can cling to various surfaces and is hard to remove. Different furniture materials may need specific cleaning methods to get rid of pollen without causing damage.
Outdoor fabrics require special attention during pollen season. Polyester is nonorganic, so it resists mold and mildew, but printed patterns can fade over time in sun and rain. Acrylic-coated cotton, on the other hand, has a water-repellent plastic coating that makes it a breeze to clean—though that coating can wear off with prolonged outdoor exposure, as noted by This Old House Magazine contributor Megan Baker.
Gather the supplies you need before you start cleaning. These items help you clean different types of patio furniture safely and effectively.
Before diving into the cleaning process, take some preparatory steps to make your job easier.
Start by gently wiping down the furniture with a dry microfiber cloth. This will remove loose pollen and prevent it from spreading during cleaning. For fabric surfaces, use a vacuum with an upholstery attachment to remove as much pollen as possible.
If possible, remove cushions, fabric covers, and other detachable parts. These pieces often have different cleaning needs than the furniture frame. Set them aside for separate cleaning to make sure you thoroughly remove the pollen from all areas. If the cushions aren’t removable, just avoid scrubbing the surface with a brush or sponge.
Before applying any cleaning solution to your patio furniture, always do a test on a small, inconspicuous area first. As This Old House general contractor Mark demonstrates when cleaning outdoor surfaces, testing ensures the cleaner won’t discolor or damage the material—whether it’s painted metal, teak, or woven fabric.
Different surfaces require specific cleaning approaches. Here’s how to tackle pollen on wood and nonporous materials like plastic and metal.
For light pollen deposits, start with the following dry cleaning methods:
For more stubborn pollen, try these methods:
For materials that can handle it, you can use a pressure washer on a low setting. Avoid using it on wicker or delicate wood.
Fabric surfaces need special care to remove pollen without harming the material.
Start by vacuuming the fabric with an upholstery attachment. Use the crevice tool to clean seams and edges. Gently brush the fabric with a soft-bristled brush to loosen any remaining pollen.
For set-in pollen stains, do the following:
Wicker furniture needs gentle handling. We recommend this process:
Pro Tip: Natural wicker—woven of small, bendable twigs, usually of willow—is not technically an outdoor material, so it requires extra care when cleaning. Avoid high-pressure spraying, which can damage the weave. Instead, stick with a gentle rinse from a garden hose and allow plenty of drying time before putting cushions back in place.
Metal furniture is often easier to clean using the following steps:
You can also apply a metal polish after cleaning to further protect the surface.
Taking steps to prevent pollen from settling on your furniture can reduce the need for frequent deep cleaning and keep your patio furniture looking fresh:
For particularly tough pollen stains, you can create a paste using baking soda and water. Apply the paste to the stain and let sit for 15–20 minutes, then gently scrub with a soft brush. Rinse thoroughly and let the piece dry.
For fabric stains, commercial fabric cleaners designed for outdoor use are available. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
For pollen stains on outdoor fabrics and upholstery, consider using a powdered oxygen bleach solution rather than chlorine bleach. As This Old House has noted, chlorine bleach can discolor fabrics and weaken fibers, while oxygen bleach is gentler on materials. Use it sparingly—roughly 2 teaspoons per 5 gallons of water—to avoid fading. As one professional cleaner cautioned in This Old House Magazine, “There’s no way to fix a damaged carpet,” and the same goes for outdoor cushion fabrics.
Pro Tip: Tom Silva, This Old House general contractor, explains why baking soda paste works so well on stubborn stains: “I think the baking soda is basically like a fine stone, so it can be a little aggressive. And the water, I think is just getting into the stain itself, allowing everything to soak” into the surface for easier removal. For best results, use a ratio of two parts baking soda to one part water.
Enzyme cleaners can be very effective for breaking down pollen. These cleaners contain natural enzymes that digest pollen, making it easier to remove.
Here’s how to use an enzyme cleaner formulated for outdoor fabrics and surfaces:
You can clean most pollen at home, but there are times when professional help might be necessary. Professionals provide specialized care to keep your furniture in top condition. We recommend bringing in a pro in these situations:
Get rid of clogs in your faucet aerator with these simple cleaning steps.
This popular mailbox trick may discourage insects, but experts explain why it falls short and what works better.
Placing a dryer sheet in your mailbox to ward off unwanted insects is a widely shared tip, but it’s not a reliable way to keep pests out. While strong scents can sometimes discourage insects, they don’t address what attracts them in the first place. We break down where this idea comes from, whether it actually works, and what experts, including This Old House landscape contractor Roger Cook, recommend to prevent and handle infestations.
Mailboxes offer an ideal nesting environment for insects. The enclosed, sheltered space protects them from rain and wind, while small gaps around seams or doors provide easy access points. Because mailboxes are rarely disturbed for long periods, they can quickly become attractive nesting sites.
Common mailbox intruders include yellow jackets, wasps, and hornets, as well as spiders in some regions. These pests can become aggressive when their space is disturbed, creating a real risk for homeowners and mail carriers handling the box.
The idea behind using a dryer sheet is scent. Many insects are sensitive to strong fragrances, particularly plant-derived compounds like linalool, which is used in some insect repellents.
Dryer sheets are designed to release fragrance, and in a small, enclosed space like a mailbox, that scent can become concentrated. This has led to the belief that the smell can deter insects from entering or nesting.
Dryer sheets are often suggested as do-it-yourself (DIY) pest control, but their impact is limited. To get a clearer picture, This Old House Magazine has spoken with pest-control experts about how well scent-based methods actually work.
In those conversations, pest-control expert Ron Harrison of Orkin said that “some smells repel mice for a short period of time, like cigarette smoke and certain colognes,” suggesting that fabric softener sheets may offer only temporary relief, not a reliable solution.
Broad, unfocused fixes rarely solve pest problems for long. Pest-control expert Richard Brenner explains that approaches like this don’t address the root of the issue. A dryer sheet in a mailbox may deter an insect or two, but it won’t stop pests from coming back.
In practice, dryer sheets are best viewed as a minor deterrent rather than a dependable way to prevent infestations.
If you want to keep insects out of your mailbox, focus on proven prevention strategies:
Mailboxes are especially attractive to stinging insects such as yellow jackets, paper wasps, and hornets, which look for small, protected cavities to build their nests. Catching these pests early makes them much easier and safer to deal with.
If a nest is already present, avoid disturbing it during the day when insects are most active. This Old House landscape contractor Roger Cook recommends handling nests in the evening after the pests have returned, which is typically when activity levels are lower. For enclosed spaces like mailboxes, calling a pest-control professional is often the safest approach.
These steps target the source of the problem, making them more effective than relying solely on fragrance.
If you choose to try a dryer sheet, use it as a preventive measure, not as a fix for an active infestation. Place it in the mailbox at the start of spring, when insects begin looking for nesting sites. Replace the sheet once its scent fades, which may happen more quickly during periods of high heat or heavy rain.
A dryer sheet in your mailbox is an easy step that may help discourage insects in some cases, but it’s not a reliable or long-term solution. For consistent protection, focus on sealing entry points, inspecting regularly, and addressing nests early—strategies that are far more effective at keeping your mailbox pest-free.
Pink mold can return quickly if you don’t address the cause. Learn how to remove it from your shower and prevent future buildup.
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Pink mold in the shower often shows up as a slimy pink or orange film on tile, grout, and fixtures. Despite the name, it isn’t actually mold but a bacterial biofilm that thrives in damp, residue-heavy environments and tends to return if the underlying conditions aren’t addressed.
In this guide, we explain how to get rid of pink mold in the shower, why it keeps coming back, and how to prevent it. We also include professional insights, including This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, to help you tackle the problem more effectively.
Pink mold can appear in shades of pink, orange, or red, but it isn’t actually a mold. It’s a bacterial biofilm—Serratia marcescens—that forms on moist bathroom surfaces.
What makes pink mold especially persistent is how it grows. Instead of sitting loosely on the surface, it forms a thin, sticky layer that clings to materials like grout, caulk, and plastic. This biofilm can protect the bacteria underneath, which is why it often returns even after cleaning.
Pink mold thrives in environments with moisture and residue. In the This Old House segment “Cleaning Up Mold,” environmental contractor Brian Fitzsimons says that microbial growth depends on both moisture and a food source, like soap scum, body oils, and shampoo residue commonly found in showers. Bathrooms provide ideal conditions for this combination, especially in areas that stay damp between uses.
Pink mold is not as dangerous as some mold types, but you should still address it promptly to prevent it from spreading and contaminating frequently used surfaces. It can pose health risks for individuals with compromised immune systems and can also make you sick if it comes in contact with your eyes or an open wound.
Exposure can cause irritation or infection, particularly in sensitive individuals, including:
Recognizing pink mold is the first step in addressing the problem. Its distinctive color makes it relatively easy to spot, but you need to know where to look and how to distinguish it from other bathroom growths.
Pink mold often returns in the same areas, so recurring spots can indicate where moisture or residue is building up.
Regularly inspecting these areas can help you catch pink mold growth early.
While pink mold is distinctive, it’s possible to confuse it with other bathroom issues. Use this guide:
Pink mold’s slimy texture and pinkish hue set it apart from these other common bathroom problems.
The right tools can make removal more effective, but technique and thoroughness matter more than the specific products you use. Here’s what you’ll need to tackle the job safely and thoroughly:
Note: Make sure to wear gloves, glasses, and a respirator when cleaning pink mold. We also recommend running your bathroom’s exhaust fan during cleaning.
The right approach and materials will help you effectively eliminate pink mold and restore your shower’s cleanliness. Because pink mold forms a biofilm, it can cling to surfaces and return if buildup isn’t fully removed.
Several household items can be effective against pink mold. However, they don’t all work the same way. While some help break down residue, others are better for disinfecting.
Follow these steps to tackle pink mold:
We recommend cleaning your shower curtain when you have pink mold, as bacteria can cling to the curtain and liner and reinfect your shower later:
Shower drains are a common source of recurring buildup due to constant moisture and trapped debris. Follow these cleaning steps:
Grout lines are porous and can trap moisture and residue, making them more prone to recurring growth. Here’s our recommendation:
Use a bleach solution for stubborn stains. Take care to protect surrounding surfaces when using bleach.
Consider hiring a professional cleaning service for severe pink mold cases or if you’re uncomfortable handling the cleanup yourself. Make sure to explain the problem to the cleaners in advance. They have specialized equipment and stronger cleaning agents to tackle stubborn pink mold infestations.
Preventing pink mold goes beyond just cleaning. You also need to limit the moisture and residue that allows the bacteria to grow in the first place. Bathrooms are especially prone to recurring growth because moisture tends to linger. As Trethewey explains in This Old House Magazine, modern homes trap humidity, creating conditions where bacteria and mold can thrive.
These daily steps help reduce the time moisture sits on surfaces, limiting the environment in which bacteria need to grow:
Regular cleaning removes the residue that pink mold feeds on, making it harder for biofilm to form. Take these precautions weekly:
Long-term prevention focuses on controlling both moisture and surface buildup, making it much harder for pink mold to return
Pink mold typically recurs if the underlying moisture and residue aren’t addressed, so effective removal depends on thorough cleaning and preventive measures. By focusing on how and where it forms, you can reduce the chances of it coming back.
Window washing isn’t an easy task—especially if you have multiple floors. Here's how to pressure-wash windows to achieve sparkling results.
Dirty windows can obstruct your view and detract from your home’s appearance. While cleaning interior windows is straightforward, exterior windows present unique challenges—especially for multi-story homes. Pressure washing is a fast and efficient solution, but it requires careful execution to avoid damage.
In this guide, we’ll show you how to pressure wash your windows safely and effectively, provide tips on DIY cleaning, and advise you on when to call in professionals.
Can you use a power washer to clean your windows? Yes, but only when using the correct technique and equipment. While effective, pressure washing has potential risks. The wrong pressure setting and technique can crack glass, loosen window putty, and damage frames.
Understanding these risks and taking proper precautions to ensure your windows remain intact and functional after cleaning is crucial. The key is to use low pressure and the right nozzle to avoid damaging your windows or surrounding areas.
You’ll need the right equipment to safely and effectively pressure wash your windows. Your toolkit should include a suitable pressure washer, appropriate nozzles, and essential safety gear.
Select a pressure washer with adjustable settings—ideally, one that can operate between 1300 and 1700 pounds per square inch (PSI). This PSI range is powerful enough to deliver a deep clean without damaging your windows.
When choosing a pressure washer, consider the size of your home and the number of windows. If you have a larger home, a more powerful machine with a higher PSI may be necessary, but always use the lowest effective setting on your windows.
Read More: Best Gas Pressure Washer Picks
Use a wide-angle nozzle, such as a 40-degree nozzle (white) or a 65-degree nozzle (black). These nozzles distribute water over a broader area, reducing the risk of damage. An extension wand can help you reach higher windows safely from the ground. You can also use a nozzle with a soap dispenser attachment. This feature disperses the cleaning solution evenly.
Pro Tip: Garry, professional window cleaner, advises: “Most people will miss-angle the squeegee, and when they do that, they’ll come across and you see the water being left.” He recommends placing two fingers underneath the handle to achieve the proper 30-degree angle from the handle to the glass.
Wear eye protection, gloves, and closed-toe shoes to protect yourself from debris and potential splashback while working. Wear a mask to keep you from inhaling cleaning chemicals.
Before cleaning, inspect all windows for existing damage. Look for cracks in the glass or frame, and seal any gaps with window caulking. If frames appear old or worn, especially wooden ones, consider alternative cleaning methods to avoid potential damage.
Remove or cover outdoor furniture, decorations, and potted plants in the cleaning area. Use tarps to protect immovable objects, and cover exposed electrical outlets with waterproof tape to prevent water ingress.
Make sure all windows are tightly closed before cleaning. Add tape where the window meets the sill to prevent water from seeping in. This step is especially important for older windows or those prone to leaks.
Follow these steps to safely and effectively clean your windows using a pressure washer.
Fill the pressure washer tank with water and add a suitable cleaning solution. A mixture of water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid can be effective and eco-friendly. Always check the manufacturer’s instructions for compatible cleaning agents. Before starting, check that your pressure washer is on a stable surface and that all hoses are securely connected.
Maintain a distance of 3–5 feet from the window and angle the sprayer at about 30 degrees to the glass. Start at the top of each window and work your way down. Apply the cleaning solution lightly and quickly over wooden frames or caulking to avoid damage. Clean one or two windows at a time to prevent the solution from drying and leaving streaks. If you encounter stubborn spots, resist the temptation to move closer to the glass. Instead, make additional passes with the sprayer or use a soft brush to scrub away the dirt gently.
When applying the solution, use a back-and-forth motion to cover the entire surface evenly. Allow the solution to sit for a few minutes to break down dirt and grime, making it easier to rinse away.
Rinse the windows thoroughly using clean water. You can use a garden hose or the rinse setting on your pressure washer. After rinsing, use a squeegee or microfiber mop to remove excess water and minimize streaking. Allow windows to air dry completely before replacing screens.
Once the windows are dry, apply a glass cleaner to remove water spots and streaks.
Different types of windows may require slightly different approaches when pressure washing. Let’s discuss the best methods for each type.
Double-pane windows are more resistant to pressure but still require care. To prevent water infiltration, avoid directing the spray at the seals between panes. Double-pane windows offer better insulation but are susceptible to moisture accumulation between the panes.
Pro Tip: When working on double-pane windows, professional window cleaner Garry demonstrates a crucial technique: “Hold that towel underneath the bottom of the squeegee, and as you come across, catch the water that’s running down the channel of the squeegee. And what this does is this prevents more water from coming down onto the wood.” This dual-action approach protects the window seals while cleaning.
Single-pane windows are generally more delicate and require extra care. Use the lowest effective pressure setting and maintain a greater distance from the window surface. Be particularly cautious around the edges where the glass meets the frame.
If you’re unsure about the pressure setting to use, start with the lowest setting and gradually increase it if necessary. Always err on the side of caution to avoid damaging these delicate windows.
Storm windows often have more robust frames but may have weaker seals. Pay extra attention to the edges and corners, using a gentler spray to avoid dislodging the window from its frame. You may even want to remove and clean these windows individually. Doing this allows for a more thorough cleaning and reduces the risk of dislodging or damaging the window.
Even with careful preparation, you may encounter some challenges while pressure washing your windows. Here’s how to handle them.
To minimize streaking, clean windows on cooler, overcast days when possible. If streaks occur, quickly wipe them away with a squeegee or microfiber cloth before they dry. Using distilled water for the final rinse can also help reduce streaking, as it contains fewer minerals that can leave deposits on the glass.
For tough stains, avoid increasing pressure. Instead, use a specialized cleaning solution and allow it to sit briefly before rinsing. If necessary, repeat the process rather than risking damage with excessive pressure. A soft-bristle brush may also be useful here.
Pro Tip: When dealing with mineral stains from hard water, professional window cleaner Weingard recommends a specialized approach: “He mixes the powder into a paste on a wet towel, rubs away the stains, then rinses and squeegees the glass twice to remove the residue.” This technique works particularly well with cleansing powders like Zud or Barkeeper’s Friend, which contain oxalic acid.
If you notice any signs of damage or water infiltration, stop immediately. Reduce pressure or switch to manual cleaning methods for that area to prevent further issues.
Pro Tip: Pro refinisher Erich Specht cautions that “even at a low setting, these guns expel water at a velocity that can not only splinter wood but shatter glass.” He recommends setting the washer at no higher than 3,000 pounds per square inch with a 40-degree tip.
After pressure washing, inspect your windows for any signs of damage or water intrusion. Clean the windowsills and tracks to prevent mold growth. Consider applying a water-repellent treatment to help maintain cleanliness and protect against future stains.
While pressure washing windows can be a DIY task, there are times when professional help is advisable. If you have a multi-story home, numerous windows, or if you’re uncomfortable working with pressure washers, leave the cleaning to the pros. Also, seek expert assistance if you notice any window damage or if your windows are particularly old or delicate.
When selecting a professional service, look for insured and bonded companies with good references. Check online reviews and ask for detailed quotes. While price is important, don’t make it your sole deciding factor. Consider the company’s experience, services offered, and customer satisfaction ratings.
Frogs can be an adorable addition to your yard or garden—or they can be a headache. As a homeowner, you’ll have to decide if you want to keep frogs away or not. Here are some tips on what to do if frogs are hopping around your property.
You may have looked around your yard recently and noticed it is bustling with life. Bees are pollinating, worms are burrowing, squirrels are scampering, flowers are blooming, and birds are chirping.
You may have also noticed something hopping about: frogs. But why are frogs in your yard, and what should you do about them? What keeps frogs away from your house? We’ve got answers to all your questions.
One of the most common reasons you are seeing frogs in your yard is that there is probably a body of water in your neighborhood nearby. If you have a creek, lake, or pond in the surrounding area, frogs may be visiting you after wandering away from these areas. Another reason you may have frogs on your property is if you have a pool. Even if you have a water fountain, bird bath, or other water feature in your yard, they may also be drawn to that.
Frogs could also be enticed by any water that collects on your lawn due to improper drainage. For instance, you may get puddling after it rains if the soil is uneven and doesn’t have proper grading or there is an issue with water not being able to flow completely because of a blockage in or around your gutter. This dampness makes it ripe for frogs to thrive in your yard.
Pro Tip: Tom Dunbar, president of the American Society of Landscape Architects, observes: “Humans are incredibly adaptable. A lot of people just ignore the water. They simply give up that part of their yard.”
Standing water doesn’t just attract frogs—it also breeds unsightly molds and fungi and, where water collects in shallow pools, mosquitoes.
Unlike some creatures lurking in your yard, frogs may not be your enemies. They aren’t generally destructive. However, they can be a nuisance if there are many hopping or if their croaking is keeping you up at night. The good news is that frogs are great to have around if you have a garden and want some natural pest control in it. Since frogs eat plenty of bugs, this will minimize your need to use chemicals.
Besides water and moisture, frogs could be attracted to your yard if you have a garden that attracts the bugs they enjoy eating. If you have fruit flies, grasshoppers, crickets, worms, caterpillars, snails, or spiders in your yard, you may also have some hungry frogs ready to eat them.
To identify exactly which insects are attracting frogs to your lawn, remove both ends from a two-pound coffee can, sink it into the ground, and fill it with soapy water. If more than 10 insects land in the water after 15 to 30 minutes, you’ve found your frog buffet.
Frogs may be toxic. If you have pets or small children, keeping frogs away from your house may be a good idea. While they may seem harmless, there are some native species of frogs, such as the pickerel frog and the American toad, that could make your pets sick if they lick, pick up, or ingest them and may cause irritation for humans as well. And any frog can potentially carry bacteria, so if your child happens to touch one and doesn’t wash their hands, they could get infected with salmonella or another pathogen. To be safe, it may be wise to eliminate frogs and the things that attract them to your yard in the first place.
Frogs attract snakes. Snakes like to prey on frogs. So, if you don’t want to have a run-in with a snake in your garden or yard, eliminating your frog problem will get rid of snakes.
Some frogs are invasive species. Non-native frogs and toads can have a detrimental effect on the ecosystem because they’ll be competing with other natural species for resources. Certain areas of the country are experiencing more issues than others, namely California with the American bullfrog and Florida with Cuban tree frogs and cane toads.
Frogs can be loud. If you’ve got a whole crew residing on your property, prepare to hear a chorus of croaking all night.
If you don’t want frogs, you may be wondering what keeps frogs away. Here are a few ways to keep frogs away from your house.
Consider using coffee grounds as another natural repellent option. A This Old House reader from California shared: “I started scattering coffee grounds in the beds, and the cats have stayed away ever since. It doesn’t matter whether the grounds are fresh or were used to brew coffee. Apply them liberally, either underneath or on top of mulch.”
Pro Tip: For a natural wildlife deterrent, try cayenne pepper. According to This Old House Magazine, you can ward off various critters by sprinkling a heavy-handed dusting of cayenne pepper directly onto plants you don’t want them snacking on.
If you are terrified of frogs, don’t want to attempt eliminating them yourself, or can’t stand the thought of doing something inhumane to them, seek out the help of a professional. One of the best ways to get rid of frogs without harming them is to call on a top rated pest control company specializing in wildlife control. Such professionals usually capture frogs and place them elsewhere instead of harming them.
There should be local wildlife specialists who know how to get frogs out of your yard and redistribute them elsewhere in the wild. They will also be able to provide you with tips on how to keep these creatures from getting back into your yard.
You can find such specialists through animal services in your city or county. A wildlife rehabilitator may also be able to help. Additionally, you can look for local pest control professionals who perform wildlife removal or specialize solely in wildlife removal. Pest control pros can also help you find out how animals are getting into your home in general.
Is killing frogs against the law?
In some states, it is against the law to kill frogs. Endangered frogs, like the California Red-Legged Frog, should not be exterminated. However, some frogs, like the American Bullfrog, are considered invasive and may not be protected by law from extermination.
To determine the rules about frogs in your state, it’s a good idea to consult local laws. Again, hiring wildlife control specialists are the best defense against a frog invasion because they will know humane ways to eliminate them from your yard.
Give your old tiles new life by reglazing them.
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Reglazing bathroom tile is a cost-effective way to refresh your space without the hassle of a full renovation. This do-it-yourself-friendly process can transform outdated or worn tiles and give your bathroom an updated look.
We’ll walk through the steps of reglazing bathroom tile, from preparation to maintenance, to help you achieve professional-looking results.
Tile reglazing involves applying a new finish to existing tiles rather than restoring the original glaze. Instead, the old surface is covered with a durable coating (typically epoxy-based) that adheres to the existing tile. It’s an excellent option when your tiles are structurally sound but visually outdated or worn.
Reglazing your bathroom tiles offers several advantages over replacement:
However, if any tiles are missing or seriously damaged, you may need to replace them instead.
Here’s what you’ll need to get started on your tile reglazing project:
Stay safe when working with epoxy and other chemicals. Wear gloves and protective clothing to prevent skin contact, and keep a first aid kit handy for minor accidents.
Reglazing products contain volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that can be harmful if inhaled. Set up proper ventilation by opening windows and putting a box fan in the window to blow fumes outside. We also recommend wearing a respirator.
If spills occur, clean them promptly using appropriate methods and protective gear. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for disposal and cleanup of epoxy products to stay safe and comply with environmental guidelines.
Pro Tip: Chris, a professional refinisher, emphasizes the importance of protective gear when working with etching compounds: “Safety equipment is important” when handling hydrofluoric acid-based products used in tile reglazing.
Here are our steps for a successful tile reglazing. Be sure to read all the manufacturer’s instructions before starting. If they suggest a specific temperature and humidity range, follow the guidelines to help the finished product look its best.
Thoroughly clean the tiles. Using a putty knife or scraper, remove any gunk, buildup, or debris. For stubborn residue, use a tile-cleaning solution. Rinse thoroughly to remove any cleaning solution residue.
Inspect the tiles for any damage. Reglazing can hide minor imperfections, but you’ll want to repair major cracks or chips before proceeding.
When using a straight razor blade to remove excess silicone caulking from tile faces, you may notice black marks on porcelain surfaces. These metal marks occur whenever metal touches porcelain, but they’ll be completely covered during the reglazing process.
Use painter’s tape to protect areas you don’t want to reglaze, such as fixtures, trim, and adjacent surfaces. Lay down drop cloths or plastic sheeting to protect your floor and fixtures.
When applying painter’s tape around the tub, run a straight razor blade along the edge where the tape meets the surface to ensure a clean seal. This prevents the reglazing material from bleeding underneath the tape and creating uneven lines.
Before starting, set up a window fan to exhaust dust particles outside and tape plastic drop cloths over doorways to adjacent rooms using painter’s tape. This containment system prevents fine dust from spreading throughout your home during the sanding process.
Sand the tile surface to help the primer adhere better:
Now it’s time to apply the primer:
Once the primer is dry, it’s time to apply the epoxy. These chemicals typically have very strong fumes, so put on your respirator if you’re not already wearing it.
Steps for mixing and applying the epoxy include:
Two coats of reglazing epoxy should be enough. Keep track of time and apply the second coat exactly when the manufacturer states. If you wait too long, the coat will cure, and you’ll have to start sanding all over again. If you apply it too soon, the epoxy will run and pool.
Proper curing and maintenance help your reglazed tiles last longer. Follow these guidelines to protect your newly refreshed bathroom.
Allow the reglazed surface to cure fully before using the bathroom. This process typically takes three to four days—we recommend following the manufacturer’s recommendations for best results. Keep the area well-ventilated and avoid using the bathroom, as high humidity levels will prevent the reglazing epoxy from curing.
Once the epoxy is completely dry, clean the entire surface with a tile-cleaning solution and a microfiber cloth.
The reglazing process coats grout lines, but they may still require occasional touch-ups. Use a grout pen or resealer as needed to maintain your grout’s fresh look.
Avoid these common mistakes when reglazing your bathroom tiles:
While you technically can reglaze your bathroom tile with supplies from the hardware store, consider your skills and available time before starting. Doing it yourself gives you complete creative control and is typically more affordable than hiring a professional. However, professionals are less likely to make mistakes and typically work much faster.
We recommend calling a professional if any of the following apply:
A tile reglazing kit typically costs $30–$50 at hardware stores. Hiring a professional costs between $4–$10 per square foot, according to HomeAdvisor.
Be aware of the cost of making DIY mistakes: according to Angi, it costs between $10–$50 to retile a bathroom.
Recurring puddles in your yard can create ongoing problems, especially when the issue persists despite repeated efforts to fix it. This guide explains the most common causes of a wet lawn and outlines practical solutions you can use to dry up your yard.
It doesn’t matter how beautiful a yard is if there are soggy, wet areas that make it feel unusable. Trekking through muddy spots will inevitably lead to dirty shoes and socks, and pests that breed in standing soil can soon swarm in large populations if left unchecked. Despite best efforts, stopping water from pooling in a low spot in the yard can become extremely difficult.
In this guide, we highlight some of the most common drainage solutions available to help homeowners dry out their yards and get back to enjoying their outside spaces. We also feature expert insights from This Old House’s landscaping contractor, Roger Cook.
Soil gets hard, compacted, and tightens up the more we walk on it, the longer snow sits on top of it every winter, and the more stress a lawn sees. And when a powerful rainstorm comes along under these conditions, the water won’t be able to penetrate the soil, so instead it will pool or wash off into a section of the yard. Aeration can solve this.
Yard aeration is the activity of poking holes into the soil. This does a few things: One, it creates pathways that water and nutrients can take to get to the roots of the grass, promoting a better lawn. It also breaks up soil that’s too compacted to simply drain. There are a number of things you can use to poke the holes including a garden fork, aerator shoes, or a spike aerator.
Pro Tip: Cook recommends using a core aerator, which is a machine that pokes holes into your lawn, rather than simple spike tools. “The holes [the lawn aerator] leaves behind provide a way for water to reach the root zone,” he adds.
If a yard isn’t pitched properly, it can become a huge issue. Ideally, the yard should slope away from the home, and if it doesn’t, it will cause a funnel-like effect, pushing the water back into the home rather than draining it away.
Generally speaking, grading a yard involves adding a few inches of clay-type soil and grading it away from the home to promote better drainage. “A lot of people just ignore the water and simply give up that part of their yard,” says Tom Dunbar, the former president of the American Society of Landscape Architects. If you don’t address your drainage issue, any future landscaping investments you make won’t work out.
Sometimes the water that’s causing the issues is coming from a neighboring property or even a poorly pitched street or driveway. In these cases, installing a French drain that prevents the water from flowing into your yard will help keep it dry.
Be prepared: French drains can be a hassle to install. They involve digging a trench, installing a series of perforated pipes, pitching them, and then covering them with a material that drains well, like gravel or crushed stone.
Gutters are designed to control the flow of rainwater from the roof to protect your house’s foundation. However, if the gutters don’t’ shuttle the water far enough away from the home, they could be causing drainage issues.
The easiest way to handle this problem is to install gutter downspout extensions. Flexible and extendable, these accordion-type pipes attach directly to your existing downspouts. Homeowners can then divert the water toward other parts of the lawn that drain a bit better.
Another option for controlling the flow from the gutter system is to collect excess water with rain barrels. These basins can be made from real wood or even plastic, and they can be installed at the end of the downspout. Then, every time it rains, the barrel will capture the water rather than letting it pool on the yard’s surface. This also gives homeowners a renewable water source for watering flowers and vegetable gardens.
Your hardscape may be contributing to your “wet yard” problem. Bricks and concrete can be great to look at and walk on when installed correctly, but these materials don’t drain. They simply shed water off into the lawn, allowing it to collect on the yard’s surface. Low spots or pockets in the bricks or blocks can hold water themselves, leading to mildew or even pest breeding.
Instead of hardscape materials, you may want to consider switching to materials that drain, such as gravel, pebbles, and other loose materials that allow for comfortable walking while preventing puddles from occurring.
As the gutters collect the rainwater from a roof, it channels down the downspouts and dumps directly out onto the ground. Hopefully, the ground can absorb the water. If not, you’re going to have a soggy yard on your hands. Installing a catch basin below the downspout can be the answer.
How a catch basin works: It’s basically a drum in the ground with pipes attached that allow the water to drain out into the soil, a drain emitter, or to a street drain. These pipes will continue to work regardless of soil compaction or ground saturation.
Yard drains are essentially just floor drains for your yard. These drains can be installed wherever water frequently gathers, collecting the water and redirecting it into any area of the yard that drains well, or a dry well.
Installing a yard drain does require some excavation to accommodate the drain itself and its pipes. Once all the excavated dirt has been backfilled and the grass grows back, only a small drain grid will be visible, making it a great choice for well-maintained lawns with recurring wet spots.
Instead of trying to fight the water, consider using it to your advantage: Building a beautiful rain garden. Rain gardens are simply gardens full of water-loving plants. These plants will appreciate the extra water and grow into an attractive section of the yard rather than just a soggy eyesore no one can walk on. Research your area’s garden zone for species that will tolerate wet conditions, such as native sedges and lady ferns.
Pro Tip: Position your rain garden at least 10 feet from your house, ensuring it is also away from any steep slope or septic system.
A dry well can be a great option for capturing and holding water while it drains into the soil. Dry wells are really just barrels dug into the ground and then filled with stones. The stones promote drainage, allowing the water to escape into the soil around the dry well.
Dry wells can be tied into gutter systems, French drains, and other drainage systems. They can also utilize pop-up drain emitters to allow overflowing water to escape during storms, flooding, and other high-water situations.
In most cases, handling a lawn that refuses to drain is a DIY project. With a little bit of knowledge and the above tips, you’ll be able to reduce the amount of standing water, mud, and even pests that plague your property.
Learn tried and true tips to dramatically improve curb appeal so you can confidently sell your home.
When buying a house, people judge a book by its cover. In other words, the way the exterior of your home looks will determine if potential buyers even want to take a tour. If the landscape is well-kept, the exterior looks freshly cleaned or painted, and the upkeep is great overall, buyers will eagerly want to see what you offer inside.
This article explores the best curb appeal ideas to help you sell your home faster and potentially for a higher price. We’ll cover strategies that fit various budgets and timeframes, from quick fixes to significant improvements.
Curb appeal is more than just making your home look pretty—it’s a powerful marketing tool in real estate. When potential buyers drive by or arrive for a showing, the exterior of your home sets the tone for their entire experience. A welcoming and well-maintained exterior suggests that the inside is equally cared for, which can significantly influence a buyer’s decision. A study from the Journal of Real Estate Finance and Economics found that good curb appeal can increase a property’s price by up to 7%.
Before making improvements, start by objectively evaluating your home’s current curb appeal. This assessment will help you identify areas that need attention and prioritize your efforts and investment.
Start by walking across the street and looking at your home with fresh eyes. Take note of any areas that appear worn, dated, or need repair. Pay attention to the following:
Sometimes, it’s difficult to see our own home objectively. Ask friends, neighbors, or your real estate agent for honest opinions. They might notice things you’ve overlooked or provide valuable insights from a buyer’s perspective.
Some of the most effective curb appeal improvements are also the quickest and easiest to implement. These small changes can significantly affect how your home is perceived.
Your front door is a focal point of your home’s exterior. A fresh coat of paint can instantly brighten your entryway and create a welcoming atmosphere. Popular colors that make your door stand out include red, black, navy, and yellow. Add a new welcome mat, and flank the door with potted plants for added charm. You can go one step further and replace your front door altogether.
New house numbers and a fresh mailbox are small details that can impact your home’s overall appearance. Choose numbers easily read from the street and complement your home’s style. A few coats of paint can give it new life if your mailbox is in good condition but looks weathered.
Introducing pops of color with plants and flowers is an easy way to enhance your home’s curb appeal. Add window boxes, hanging baskets, or container gardens near your entryway. Choose plants that are appropriate for your climate and require minimal maintenance.
Walkways are often overlooked but can significantly impact curb appeal. Clean and repair any cracks in your walkways, and consider adding a border of plants or decorative stones for extra charm. Paver stones can also be an attractive and durable option to upgrade your paths.
Seasonal decorations add a festive touch to your home’s exterior. A themed wreath, seasonal doormat, and porch decorations can make your home feel welcoming all year round. However, remember that less is more. You don’t want to overwhelm potential buyers with too much decor.
Regular maintenance helps to keep your home’s exterior looking its best throughout the sale.
Dirt, grime, and mildew can accumulate on your home’s exterior over time, making it look dull and neglected. Regular cleaning and pressure washing keep your siding, driveway, and walkways fresh and well-maintained.
Small issues such as loose gutters, peeling paint, or cracked walkways can give the impression that your home hasn’t been well cared for. Address these minor repairs promptly to maintain a polished appearance.
Different seasons bring different maintenance needs. In spring, focus on cleaning up winter debris and planting new flowers. Summer might require more frequent lawn mowing and watering. Fall calls for leaf removal, while winter may involve snow and ice management.
Roofs and gutters protect your home from weather damage. Inspect them regularly for any signs of wear or blockage. Cleaning gutters and replacing damaged shingles or flashing can prevent more significant issues.
Regularly clean your windows, both inside and out, to let in more natural light and enhance the overall appearance of your home. Clean, streak-free windows suggest that the house is well-maintained.
A well-maintained landscape is one of the biggest secrets to boost curb appeal. It shows potential buyers that the property has been cared for and creates an inviting atmosphere.
A healthy, green lawn is a key component of attractive landscaping. Make sure your grass is regularly mowed, edged neatly, and weed-free. If there are bare patches, reseed or lay sod to create a lush, uniform appearance.
Well-designed garden beds can add color, texture, and interest to your landscape. Choose a mix of perennials and annuals for year-round appeal. Mulch gives your beds a neat, finished look and helps retain moisture. Even a low-lift container garden can seriously brighten things up.
Hardscaping features such as stone pathways, retaining walls, or a decorative fence can add structure and visual interest to your landscape. These elements can also help define spaces and create a sense of order in your yard.
Water features such as fountains or small ponds can create a sense of tranquility and add a unique element to your yard. These features can be eye-catching and provide a gentle, soothing sound that enhances the overall ambience of your property.
Incorporate native plants into your landscaping to provide a thriving, low-maintenance garden. Native plants are adapted to your local climate and soil, requiring less water and care. They also support local wildlife, adding ecological value to your property.
While minor changes can make a difference, more significant improvements are sometimes necessary to transform a home’s exterior.
A fresh coat of paint or new siding can dramatically improve your home’s appearance. If your current paint is fading or peeling or your siding is damaged, this upgrade can be well worth the investment. Choose colors that complement your home’s architecture and appeal to many buyers.
Old or damaged windows detract from your home’s appearance and energy efficiency. Replacing them with modern, energy-efficient models can improve not only appearance but new buyers’ electricity bill. Adding or updating shutters can enhance your home’s character and curb appeal.
Good lighting increases safety and security. Consider adding pathway lights to illuminate walkways and landscape lighting to highlight architectural features or beautiful landscaping. Solar lights can be an energy-efficient and cost-effective option for outdoor illumination.
If you already have a deck, consider refinishing it to remove any signs of wear and add a fresh coat of stain or paint. If not, building a new deck can be a worthwhile investment for your property’s value and appeal.
A new roof can be a major selling point for buyers. If your roof is old or looks worn, replacing it could significantly boost your home’s look and market value. Choose durable materials and a style that matches your home’s architecture.
The garage door has a bigger influence on curb appeal than you may realize. A damaged or unattractive one can deter potential buyers. Apply a fresh coat of paint in neutral tones such as white, black, beige, or brown. Adding decorative hardware can elevate a plain door’s appearance, creating a more polished look. If your garage door isn’t opening or closing properly, repair it or invest in a new one.
Improving your home’s curb appeal doesn’t have to cost a fortune. There are many cost-effective ways to enhance your home’s exterior.
Some inexpensive improvements that can make a significant difference include the following:
Get creative with upcycling and repurposing materials. For instance, you can transform old pallets into a charming garden bench or use vintage containers as unique plant pots. These projects can add personality to your yard without costing much money.
Look for second-hand or gently used items at thrift stores, yard sales, or online marketplaces. You might find planters, outdoor furniture, garden tools, and other items that can enhance your curb appeal without a significant investment.
While enhancing your home’s curb appeal, avoid these common pitfalls that could deter potential buyers.
If you want your home to stand out, avoid overly personalized or eccentric design choices. Stick to neutral, broadly appealing styles that allow buyers to envision themselves living in the house.
Maintain side yards, the back of the house, and the roof, as potential buyers might see them during a showing or inspection.
Pay attention to what is popular in your local market. Certain features may be more appealing depending on your region. For instance, drought-tolerant landscaping is excellent in dry climates, while lush gardens might be more valued in wetter areas. Make sure your curb appeal strategies align with local trends and expectations.
Carpenter Nathan Gilbert’s Christmas tree farm suffered some damage from a fallen red oak. Rather than get rid of it, he’s going to turn it into usable slabs of wood for his projects. Find out how.
This Old House DIY expert Jenn Largesse shows us how to build a long-lasting outdoor sofa from 2-by-4 boards.
We may be compensated if you purchase through links on our website. Our team is committed to delivering honest, objective, and independent reviews on home products and services.
All-weather outdoor furniture and accessories can cost a pretty penny, especially if you’re shopping during the peak spring or summer seasons. Enter this clean-lined outdoor sofa, which This Old House DIY expert Jenn Largesse made from inexpensive 2-by-4 boards using only a few basic tools. After you cut the lumber to size, pocket-hole joinery makes assembly quick and easy. For the cost of a few cushions and with a few hours of work in the shop, you can have this comfortable couch for a fraction of what you’d pay in most stores.
Once you assemble and stain your outdoor sofa and protect it with exterior polyurethane or paint, this sturdy piece of furniture will help you entertain friends and family for many summers to come.
Before you start building, you’ll need to gather the following materials and tools:
Properly preparing your lumber as follows will help create a professional-looking finish and improve your outdoor sofa’s longevity.
When choosing your 2-by-4 boards, look for straight pieces with minimal knots. While dimensional lumber is cost-effective, it often comes with rounded edges and grading stamps. Be prepared to spend some time sanding to achieve a stain-grade finish.
Pro Tip: This Old House master carpenter Norm Abram recommends sighting down the edge of each board before buying to catch any crook, twist, bow, or other deviation. “It’s all about straight and true,” he says.
Use a miter saw to cut your lumber pieces to the lengths specified in the cut list below. Use a stopblock when making repetitive cuts to ensure accuracy and efficiency.
Pro Tip: For this project, the builder hand-selected the best-looking 2×4×8′ boards—sold as “studs”—from the home center. Using dimensional lumber is the most affordable option, but bear in mind that the boards come with rounded edges and grading stamps, so you’ll need to spend some time sanding to transform them into stain-grade stock. If you have access to a workshop, you can run the boards through a thickness planer or use a table saw to remove the rounded edges.
Sand all the cut pieces thoroughly, starting with coarse-grit sandpaper and progressing to finer grits. Pay special attention to the edges and ends of the boards. This will help you achieve a smooth, splinter-free surface that will be comfortable to touch and easy to stain.
Pro Tip: Tom Silva advises cleaning the wood between each grit change: “If any of the 80-grit stones from the paper are left on it and you put 100 on top of it, they’re going to be mixed in there and you’re going to have lines. So you have to make sure everything’s cleaned between your paper grits.” A quick wipe-down between grits prevents rogue coarse particles from scratching an otherwise smooth surface.
For this project, Largesse manually selected the best-looking 2-by-4-by-8-foot boards—sold as “studs”—from her local home center. Using dimensional lumber is the most affordable option but these boards come with rounded edges and grading stamps, so you’ll need to sand them to transform them into stain-grade stock. If you have access to a workshop, you can run the boards through a thickness planer or use a table saw to remove the rounded edges. You can substitute a naturally weather-resistant wood, such as cedar or cypress, but this would double the cost of the wood used in this project.
Pro Tip: Tommy Silva, This Old House general contractor, stresses the importance of not rushing through grits: “Sanding can make or break a project. You can do a really good project and it’d be really sweet. But if you did a lousy job on the finish, what’s the first thing people are gonna see? Lousy finish.” He warns that skipping grits leaves visible scratch marks from the coarser paper that won’t disappear under stain.
Once you have selected and prepared your lumber, follow our step-by-step guide below to build your outdoor sofa.
Following the cut list and cutting diagram above, cut the boards to length. (Tip: Use a stopblock for making repetitive cuts to save time and improve accuracy.) To facilitate assembly, arrange the parts in four stacks: two sides, base, and back.
After identifying the best, or “show,” face of each board, use a pocket hole jig to drill holes in the back and inside faces where shown in the above illustration.
The final steps in creating your outdoor sofa involve filling holes, sanding, and applying a protective finish to ensure your new furniture piece withstands the elements.
Sanding your sofa’s surface ensures it’s smooth and ready to accept an even application of stain or paint. Opt for a finishing sander to achieve a more polished look and follow these steps to fill and sand your sofa:
Pro Tip: Tom Silva, general contractor on This Old House, recommends choosing the right protective finish: “I’d sand it lightly, put a coat of deck paint on it if you like a color or you can use a polyurethane or a marine finish, but make sure it has a UV protector in it.”
Consider adding diagonal braces to the corners of the sofa frame for increased stability. Cut four 10-inch diagonal pieces from your leftover 2-by-4 boards and attach them to the inside corners with screws and glue. This extra step will ensure that your sofa remains robust and durable over time, especially if you plan to use it frequently or in high-traffic areas.
While a classic wood finish can be attractive, you might want to customize your sofa to match your outdoor decor. Consider painting the frame or using a colored wood stain. This customization allows you to add your personal touch to the project, making it not only a functional piece of furniture but also an aesthetic addition to your outdoor space. Here’s how to stain and seal your sofa:
Once the body of your outdoor sofa is complete, you can add some extra comfort-enhancing touches as follows:
To complete your outdoor sofa, add comfortable cushions that fit the dimensions of your seat and back. Select cushions made of weather-resistant fabric and materials suitable for outdoor use. Cushion covers with zippers are easier to clean and maintain. Largesse found her cushions online for $35 per set—each set contained one seat and one back cushion.
Even though your sofa is built to withstand outdoor conditions, regular maintenance will prolong its life. Consider the following tips to maintain your sofa for years to come:
Building your own outdoor sofa is a rewarding project that combines affordability with customization. This DIY approach allows you to create a sturdy, comfortable piece of furniture tailored to your outdoor space. With proper care and maintenance, your handcrafted sofa will provide a cozy spot for relaxation and entertainment. Thoughtful preparation and personal touches ensure that your sofa will be a functional, cherished element of your outdoor living area.
Choosing the right wire gauge affects safety and performance. Learn how AWG sizes guide proper wire selection for your projects.
Ask This Old House mason Mark McCullough helps a homeowner repair the flagstone steps in their entryway.
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Flagstone steps add natural beauty and durability to your home, but over time, they may loosen or wear down. Repairing flagstone steps can be a simple DIY project that restores both safety and style to your entryway. In the video above, Ask This Old House mason Mark McCullough shows how to repair your flagstone steps, addressing common issues like loose stones and deteriorating joints.
Before starting, gather the necessary tools and materials to make the process smoother and more efficient.
Pro Tip: Roger Cook, This Old House landscape contractor, explains why surface prep is critical: “We wanna get all the loose cement and dirt out of here. So just take and scrape it up. Just don’t chip away any of the edges.” He recommends using a wire brush first, then ensuring the surface is completely dry before applying any adhesive.
You need the following tools:
You also need the following materials:
Follow these steps to repair your flagstone steps and restore their look and function.
Begin by identifying and removing any loose flagstones. Use a hammer and cold chisel to break the mortar bond around the loose stone. Hold the chisel upright and strike with the hammer to crush the joint. Once the mortar is loose, slide the chisel under the flagstone and remove it.
Next, use the chisel and hammer to remove the existing mortar bed and any mortar around the bordering stone. Clear away any dust and loose grit with the masonry brush or stiff bristle brush to prepare for the new mortar.
Pay close attention to the condition of the old mortar bed as you remove it—it tells you a lot about what went wrong. During one This Old House project, mason Mark explained the root cause of a failed mortar bed: “Mortar is supposed to get very hard as it sets up, but when you have moisture damage like we have here, this is what happens.” If your mortar bed crumbles to dust rather than coming out in solid pieces, water infiltration was likely the culprit, and you’ll want to ensure proper drainage before resetting the stone.
Make sure the area where you’ll be working is clean. Remove all debris, dust, and loose material to create a strong bond for the new mortar. A clean surface helps the new mortar hold better and last longer.
Brush a concrete bonding agent onto the exposed concrete. This step keeps the concrete from pulling moisture out of the mortar too fast. Coat the surface and edges of the stone and mortar to help them stick together.
Sal, a plasterer featured on This Old House, explains the science behind this step: “If you don’t put a bonding agent on that joint, well, that adds so much suction, that eventually, when it dries, you’ll crack.” The old concrete acts like a sponge, drawing all the water out of the new mortar before it can properly cure.
Mix the Type S mortar in a mortar trough according to the instructions on the package. Add water slowly while stirring until the mortar is thick, like oatmeal.
Use a masonry trowel to spread the mortar onto the prepared area. Press down lightly with the edge of the trowel to create small ridges, which help the stone bond to the mortar. Spread the mortar to the edges of the surrounding stones.
Place the flagstone into the bed of mortar and wiggle it into place so it’s aligned with the existing floor.
If excess mortar comes up around the edges, scrape it off carefully. For stones at the edge of a step, pack extra mortar under the stone for added support.
Use the sponge, a bit of water, and light pressure to remove the excess mortar from the stone surfaces and smooth the joints. This will pull the sand aggregate up from the joint, giving it a rougher look to match the existing floor. Keep working on the area until you’re happy with the result.
When flagstone meets wood structures, such as stair risers, you’ll need to make a flexible joint to allow for movement and avoid cracking.
Here’s how to create a “soft joint”:
McCullough showcases this method by smoothing out the caulk seam, creating a seamless finish.
After completing the repair work, there are a few final steps to guarantee the longevity and appearance of your flagstone steps:
If you’ve patched a section of your flagstone walkway or steps, consider seal-coating the entire surface once the repair has dried. As one This Old House masonry expert advised during a walkway repair: “Wait a couple of weeks and let this dry out and then seal coat the whole walkway. No one will ever know you put a patch in there.” A full seal coat helps the new repair blend seamlessly with the surrounding stone, making the fix virtually invisible.
Our team put together Mother’s Day gift options that cover a variety of interests, whether the mom you’re buying for enjoys gardening, new technology, or relaxation.
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Whether you’re shopping for your mother, grandmother, mother-in-law, or a new mom, our Mother’s Day gift guide features a variety of items to help you find a meaningful present. Our list of beauty products, tech accessories, gardening supplies, and do-it-yourself (DIY) home essentials can help ensure there’s something special to make any mom’s day truly memorable.
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This Old House has empowered homeowners and DIYers for more than four decades with top-notch home improvement advice through television programs, print media, and digital content. Our team focuses on creating in-depth product and service review content. To date, we’ve published over 1,600 reviews on products in the home space, from doorbell cameras and backyard fencing to pool vacuums and snow blowers.
Once we conclude our research, we craft a comprehensive, user-friendly article of recommended products and additional information to help our readers make the right purchase.
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The roof is insulated from the outside. Framing presents a challenge for running pipes. A lighting solution for the new ell is devised, and a lesson is given on how to properly waterproof a roof.
Learn about pollinator plants and their importance with This Old House landscaper Jenn Nawada and host Kevin O’Connor.
A summer garden buzzing with bees, with butterflies flitting among the blooms—it’s a heavenly sight and a hallmark of a healthy environment. As they travel from flower to flower, feeding on their nectar, these pollinating insects are performing a necessary task—transferring pollen from one blossom to another, allowing them to morph into fruits and seeds, safeguarding and continuing the cycle of life.
In the video above, This Old House landscape contractor Jenn Nawada explores various pollinator-friendly plants at a local nursery with host Kevin O’Connor. This guide will help you understand the importance of pollinator plants and how to incorporate them into your garden.
Correction: In the video above, one plant is identified as Asclepias tuberosa (butterfly weed), but it should be identified as Asclepias incarnata (rose milkweed). Both will attract butterflies.
Pollinator plants are flowering species that attract and provide food for pollinating insects and birds. These plants produce nectar and pollen, which are essential food sources for pollinators. As pollinators feed, they transfer pollen from one flower to another, facilitating plant reproduction.
Pro Tip: On a recent This Old House project, landscape contractor Roger Cook demonstrated just how accessible pollinator gardening can be—even in one of the biggest cities in the United States. “They’re here, but they just need the habitat,” Roger explained while building a pollinator garden. “It’s like the field of dreams. If we build it, they will come.” He noted that if every homeowner on a single block planted pollinator-friendly species, it could help mitigate the habitat loss caused by development.
Unfortunately, populations of pollinator insects have been declining for decades. As a result, there’s a movement to encourage homeowners to replenish pollinator-friendly food sources in their yards. While honeybees have gotten a lot of press—bees are the only species that actively collect pollen rather than transfer it passively—there are about 4,000 native bee species in North America, not to mention myriad species of butterflies, wasps, flies, beetles, and nectar-loving hummingbirds that are all pollination workhorses.
Incorporating pollinator plants into your garden offers numerous advantages:
Pro Tip: As Michelle Gervais writes in This Old House Magazine, pollinator populations have been declining for decades, sparking a movement to encourage homeowners to replenish pollinator-friendly food sources. Planting nectar-rich perennials helps these essential creatures travel from flower to flower, transferring pollen from one blossom to another and allowing them to morph into fruits and seeds—safeguarding the cycle of life.
Designing a garden that attracts pollinators requires thoughtful planning and plant selection. By following these guidelines, you can create a thriving habitat for these essential creatures.
Native plants are adapted to local conditions and have evolved alongside native pollinators. They typically require less water and maintenance than non-native species. As Nawada points out, native plants are an excellent choice for pollinator gardens because they support local ecosystems and reduce the need for chemical interventions.
To support pollinators throughout the growing season, include plants that flower at different times. This ensures a continuous food source from early spring through late fall. Below, we’ll list examples of recommended plants for each season.
Pro Tip: In a This Old House pollinator garden project, landscape designer Amy emphasized the importance of staggered bloom times when staging plants: “You want spring, summer bloomers, fall. It’s just, it’s nice to have different things going off at different times in the garden.” She also recommended mixing in grasses for textural contrast, noting that dwarf fountain grass produces beautiful plumes in the fall.
By “straight species,” we mean the version that evolved in the wild, not human-engineered cultivars. However, cultivated varieties can also be useful if they have not lost the properties of the parent plants that attract pollinators. For example, if a cultivar is an exceptionally double-petaled variety, it may not have the pollen or nectar levels of its parent, or its petals may be so dense that pollinators cannot penetrate them. If you must choose a cultivar, make sure it doesn’t differ too widely from the original in appearance and color.
Each pollinator has its own techniques for sourcing nectar and transferring pollen, so flowers should be as varied as the pollinators that visit them. Include a mix of flower shapes and colors to appeal to a wide range of species:
Beyond the plants you pick, also follow these steps to ensure your pollinator garden thrives and continues to support local wildlife.
Different times of the year are ideal for certain flowering plants. If gardeners time their garden design correctly, they can add plants that flower in each season, ensuring they always have a pollinator plant or two to offer birds, bees, and butterflies. For all but the cup plant, Culver’s root, and Joe Pye weed, there are cultivar versions of each plant below that will also attract pollinators.
Season by season, here are the specific pollinator plants from Mahoney’s Garden Center discussed in the video.
Woody plants can provide valuable resources for pollinators while adding structure to your garden. They offer flowers, habitat, and sometimes even food.
Flowering shrubs can add season-long interest and support pollinator populations. Here are some popular choices:
Trees can contribute significantly to a pollinator garden. They provide nectar, shade, and nesting sites. The Arbor Day Foundation recommends these bee-friendly trees, but many local species are also pollinator-friendly.
Here are some other ways to create a more resilient and welcoming pollinator garden.
When designing your garden, think about placement and density. Grouping plants into “landing pads” ensures that pollinators don’t have to travel far for their next meal, making your garden more appealing and efficient for them. Grouping also enhances the visual impact of your garden.
Host plants are specific species that serve as breeding grounds for certain pollinators. For instance, monarch butterflies lay their eggs on milkweed plants. Including these in your garden supports the complete life cycle of pollinators. Other examples include:
A well-designed pollinator garden should remain vibrant and attractive throughout the year. Incorporate a mix of plants that provide not only flowers but also attractive foliage, stems, and seed heads. A diverse plant palette keeps the garden appealing even when some plants are not in bloom.
Creating a pollinator-friendly garden is a rewarding way to support local ecosystems and enjoy a beautiful, vibrant outdoor space. By choosing native plants, providing diverse bloom times, and following best practices, you can create a thriving habitat for bees, butterflies, and other essential pollinators right in your own backyard.
Jenn Nawada and Kevin O’Connor visited Mahoney’s Garden Center.
Wireless EV chargers allow you to conveniently recharge your electric car at home.
Mason Mark McCullough helps a homeowner connect their driveway to their front walk, matching materials and style for a timeless look.
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A pea stone walkway is a charming and functional addition to your outdoor space, creating a welcoming path that connects different areas of your property. This DIY project improves your home’s curb appeal and offers a practical solution for foot traffic.
In this guide, we’ll walk you through the process of installing a pea stone walkway, drawing inspiration from a project completed by Ask This Old House mason Mark McCullough. In the video above, McCullough extends a homeowner’s existing walkway to connect with their driveway and shares his tips for a successful installation.
Before diving into the installation process, plan your walkway carefully. Think about the layout, gather your materials, and prepare the site. Good planning will help the installation go smoothly and give you a result that looks great with your home’s exterior.
When selecting the location for your pea stone walkway, think through several factors that will influence both its appearance and functionality. Natural foot traffic patterns should guide the path’s direction, creating a logical and accessible route. Account for existing landscaping features that the walkway should complement or avoid. Drainage is also key to keeping water from pooling on the path. Lastly, placing the walkway near your home’s entrance and driveway can make it more useful.
Pro Tip: This Old House landscape contractor Roger Cook advises designing your path around natural features: “A garden path should take advantage of your environment.” He suggests running one by a natural focal point, such as a tree or boulder, or following a bend in a stream. Curves help encourage a leisurely pace and lend a bit of mystery by hiding what’s ahead—and they can even make a small space, such as a side yard, seem bigger.
Use landscape marking paint to outline the proposed path, then make sure it integrates well with your property’s overall design. You can also use a garden hose to shape the walkway and get a feel for how it will look.
Make sure you have all the materials you’ll need to build a strong and attractive walkway:
Tools you’ll need for the job include:
Here’s how to prep the area:
With your site prepped and materials gathered, you’re ready to begin the installation process. Follow these steps to get a durable, long-lasting path.
Start by using landscape marking paint to draw the rough layout and shape of your walkway on the grass. Once you’re happy with the design, remove the topsoil between the painted lines using a shovel or pick axe. Haul away the excess dirt with a wheelbarrow.
Pro Tip: Roger Cook, This Old House landscape contractor, recommends using a garden hose to plan your layout before committing: “What I’ve done is laid out a path that is 3 ft wide, which is a nice, comfortable distance for people to walk on a single person. And I also made a nice curve which brought it away from the house a little bit too.” Once you like the look, trace along the hose with an edging tool to score a line in the ground before removing it.
Use a plate compactor to pack down the soil firmly. You may need to go over the area a few times to get a solid base. Once the soil is compacted and smooth, drive stakes into each corner of the walkway area. Stretch mason string along the length of the walkway on both sides, checking that it’s taut and level at all corners.
If you’re using cobblestones for edging, mix cement and water in a wheelbarrow until it reaches an oatmeal-like consistency. Lay a thick bed of cement under each cobblestone, tapping them down with a rubber mallet until they’re level with the mason’s string. This helps define the walkway and keeps the pea stone in place.
Cover the walkway area between the edging with landscape fabric, overlapping the seams by 6–12 inches to prevent any gaps as the fabric settles. Secure the fabric in place with a few handfuls of base stone. This layer prevents weed growth and helps improve drainage.
Pour base gravel over the landscape fabric, evenly spreading it with a rake to a depth of about two inches. Use the plate compactor to pack down the gravel firmly. Lightly spray the gravel with water while compacting it to help it settle. This base layer will give the walkway support and stability.
Pro Tip: This Old House landscape contractor Roger Cook emphasizes the importance of this step: “A walkway is only as good as the base you put under it.” He notes that if water can’t drain properly, “it will pool on the surface, and any freezing and thawing will cause the bricks to pop up.” Layers of graded base—a mix of crushed stone and stone dust—need to be thoroughly tamped down to create a solid foundation.
If you’re adding pavers, carefully place them on top of the base gravel. Adjust their positions as needed, then use a rubber mallet to tap them down. You can add or remove the base stone underneath each paver to eliminate any rocking or wobbling.
Pro Tip: This Old House landscape contractor Roger Cook recommends dry-fitting irregularly shaped stones before final placement: “It takes a lot less time to dry-fit the stones together than to cut all four edges.” A test run helps you find edges that line up naturally, saving time and effort.
With the edging and any pavers in place, fill the walkway with pea stone. Slightly overfill the area, then use a hand tamp to pack the stones down tightly and lock everything in place.
To enhance the look and function of your pea stone walkway, you can add complementary features. For example, incorporating lighting along the edges can make the walkway safer, especially in the evening. Planting flowers or shrubs along the path adds color and texture, while garden sculptures or planters can add a personal touch.
Regular upkeep will keep your walkway looking great and working well for years. Here’s how to maintain it:
Ask This Old House carpenter Nathan Gilbert helps a homeowner organize her cluttered, messy shed using customizable shelving and storage systems. Read these steps to learn his tips for organizing a shed.
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A cluttered shed can feel overwhelming, especially when it’s filled with toys, tools, and various household items. However, with the right approach and storage solutions, you can transform your chaotic shed into a well-organized space. In the video, This Old House carpenter, Nathan Gilbert, demonstrates effective shed organization techniques while helping a Texas homeowner tackle her garage clutter. Below, we’ve outlined how to organize a shed so you can finally get ahead of the mess.
You’ll need a few items to organize your shed, including:
A storage system that works for one family may not work for the next. You’ll want to choose a system that helps you maximize space and organization in your shed. Nathan recommends using a track system for its versatility and strength, but there are several options available. Using a combination of these solutions can provide a well-rounded approach to shed organization.
Pro Tip: Tom Silva, general contractor on This Old House, puts it simply: “The real trick to maintaining tools is storing them right.” A well-chosen storage system not only keeps your shed tidy but also extends the life of your equipment.
These steps walk you through everything you’ll need to do to clean out your shed and organize it once and for all.
Start by removing all items from your shed to provide a blank canvas. This allows you to assess the available space and better plan your organization strategy.
Once everything is out of the shed, sort through your belongings. Create separate piles for items to keep, donate, sell, or discard. You’ll also want to create separate piles for similar items. For example, keep your gardening tools in one pile and your sports gear in another.
Pro Tip: According to organizing advice from This Old House Magazine, set aside at least a full day—or even a full weekend or two—to get the job done. Make decluttering a family project and invite over a few friends to pitch in, and it’ll go a lot faster.
Take stock of the items you plan to keep and consider their storage requirements. You’ll want to measure large items, such as bikes, lawn mowers, and ladders, and count the number of small tools and gardening supplies. Determine how much shelf space you’ll need for boxes and containers.
By understanding what will be going back into the shed, you can better determine which storage systems will work best for your needs.
When you’ve chosen your storage system and cleaned out the shed, you need to locate wall studs so you can hang heavy items. Incorrectly placing the system can cause damage to the wall, your items, or the system itself.
Use a stud finder to locate the wall studs and mark the edges of each stud for accurate placement.
If you’re installing a wall-mounted track system, follow these steps:
Once the main track is installed:
Create a labeling system to easily locate items in the future. You can label shelves or containers, use waterproof tags, or color-code for different categories.
Pro Tip: Russ Morash, executive producer of This Old House, emphasizes why a clear system matters: “A tool that you can’t get to is a tool that you won’t use. With a shed you have a dedicated place where you can reach everything you need quickly, without fishing around behind the croquet set.” A consistent labeling system ensures that every item has a designated spot—and that you can find it in seconds.
It’s easy to clutter up your shed or garage again. Maintaining your organized shed, though, can help you stay on top of the mess. Make plans to regularly declutter and remove unnecessary items. You’ll also want to make sure you’re returning anything you took out of the shed back to its designated spot.
Pro Tip: Zack Dettmore, general contractor on the This Old House Glen Ridge project, recommends making organization intuitive by “putting the solution where the problem is.” For example, if you need a pencil at the miter saw, keep pencils in that location so you’re not walking across the shed. As he explains: “If it works for you… then it’ll work for anyone working in this space, and it’ll make more sense for things to fall back to where they need.”
Different items present unique storage challenges. Here are some tips for organizing common shed contents:
Pro Tip: This Old House landscape contractor Roger Cook advises hanging as much as possible in your shed or garage: “This will get items off the floor that are prone to rust, breakage, or becoming lost in the clutter.” Organizing can be as simple as covering the walls with pegboard and a variety of hooks.
By utilizing wall-mounted track systems, shelving units, and smart storage solutions, you can maximize your shed’s potential and keep your belongings organized and easily accessible. However, keeping a shed organized is an ongoing process, but one that will pay off in the long run.
Plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey teaches host Kevin O’Connor about furnaces and why it’s important to maintain them properly.
Vapor and moisture barriers help control moisture and keep mold and corrosion at bay.
Moisture barriers are a key part of home construction. A moisture barrier, also called a vapor barrier or vapor retarder, is a material that stops water and moisture from passing through walls, floors, and other parts of a building. These barriers can come in different forms, like sheets, coatings, and membranes, and they’re categorized based on their permeability—how much moisture they allow through. Moisture barriers help protect your home against water damage and mold growth. In this guide, we’ll discuss moisture barrier types, where they go, and how to install them.
Moisture barriers fall into three main categories based on their permeability, as measured in units called “perms.” The lower the perm rating, the less moisture the barrier allows through.
Pro Tip: Gary Schinning, national sales and marketing manager for performance-strength films at Van Leer Flexibles, explains the role of moisture barriers: “It’s a secondary barrier, not a pool liner.” He emphasizes that these products are designed to provide extra protection beyond the siding and sheathing, not to be waterproof membranes.
Class I barriers are the most impermeable, with a rating of 0.1 perms or less. They include materials like polyethylene sheets, rubber membranes, sheet metal, and glass, and they’re best for cold or humid climates.
Pro Tip: Tom Silva, This Old House general contractor, recommends: “Though some batts come with a paper or foil facing that can act as a vapor barrier. Tom Silva prefers to use 6-mil polyethylene sheeting. cut to fit between the joists and with seams sealed by foil tape, to prevent moisture from seeping into insulation.”
Class II barriers are semi-permeable, allowing some moisture to pass through. They have a perm rating between greater than 0.1 and 1.0. Examples include 30-pound asphalt-coated paper, bitumen-coated kraft paper, plywood, and certain vapor retarder paints. They’re suitable for a range of climates and uses.
Class III barriers are the most permeable, with a perm rating between greater than 1.0 and 10.0. They include brick, gypsum board, concrete block, and house wrap. They’re typically used in milder climates or as part of a well-thought-out moisture management plan.
Moisture barriers protect your home from moisture-related problems. Too much moisture can wreak havoc on a home’s structure, leading to wood rot, metal corrosion, and cracked concrete. A good moisture barrier can help prevent these issues and extend the life of your home.
Mold thrives in damp conditions, and if moisture builds up inside walls or other hidden areas, it can lead to health problems and costly repairs. Moisture barriers help keep these areas dry, reducing the risk of mold growth.
Pro Tip: Tom Silva, This Old House general contractor, explains: “The vapor barrier needs to be on the outside of the wall and the same thing in the attic. By stopping that moisture when the air-conditioning’s on, you’re not going to have to worry about mold or mildew collecting on the outside of the wall.” However, in colder climates, Tom advises: “In the part of the country where I live, our air is colder in the winter and the moisture that we have to worry about comes from the inside, so we have to put our vapor barrier on the inside wall.”
Here are some key areas where moisture barriers are typically installed:
Pro Tip: Tom Silva, This Old House general contractor, emphasizes the importance of proper crawl space moisture control: “The reason we’re covering this floor with the poly, if you look at the dirt below, you can see how wet it is. It’s actually damp.” He recommends taping the polyethylene sheets at the seams and to the side walls, explaining, “We’re going to seal up all that so none of the moisture can escape and come up into this area here.”
Choosing the right moisture barrier for your project depends on several factors:
Pro Tip: As Tom Silva explains about vapor barrier placement: “In the North it goes on the inside to keep moist heated air out of the wall cavity in the winter; in the South, it goes on the outside to keep humid heat from getting into air-conditioned rooms.” He notes he’s seen this done incorrectly many times because builders don’t consider local conditions.
Proper installation is key for moisture barriers. Follow these general guidelines.
Moisture barriers can help with your home’s energy efficiency by keeping moisture out and maintaining steady indoor temperatures. This reduces the strain on your heating and cooling systems and helps prevent drafts and cold spots.
Moisture barriers help keep insulation dry. Wet insulation doesn’t do its job well, leading to higher energy bills and less comfort. By keeping insulation dry, moisture barriers help you save on energy costs and stay comfortable.
A dry indoor environment means better air quality. High humidity can lead to dust mites and other allergens. A well-installed moisture barrier helps maintain healthy humidity levels inside.
Pro Tip: Richard Trethewey, This Old House’s expert on indoor air quality, explains the modern challenge: “When the building was nothing but plaster, you could boil spaghetti all day long, you could take a shower all day long. But the modern home—the home built from 1975 on—is a tight thermos bottle. Whatever humidity we create can’t escape. That’s why the mold problems tend to come.”
Always install moisture barriers according to building codes. Following these codes not only keeps you on the right side of the law but also helps you get the best results for your project
Different areas have specific rules for moisture barrier installation based on climate. Check your local building codes to make sure you’re using the right barrier in the right place.
If you’re unsure about how to install your moisture barrier, ask a professional for advice. They can guide you in the right direction and help you choose the most suitable materials and installation techniques for your needs.
Pro Tip: Tom Silva, This Old House general contractor, emphasizes the importance of placement: “Whether using loose fill or batts, put the vapor barrier closest to the warm side of your installation, where hot, moist air would get in—facing the house’s interior in cold climates (beneath floor insulation) and the attic’s interior in hot climates (on top of floor insulation).”
Be aware of these common pitfalls when installing moisture barriers:
Pro Tip: Tom Silva, This Old House general contractor, emphasizes the critical importance of vapor barrier placement: “If the studs are 16.5 inches on center and you’re using batts made for 16 inches, you’ll have a crack on each side that air can move through.” He also warns about a common mistake he sees frequently: “Laying a second layer of fiberglass batts in the attic is an easy way to boost R-values. But if the new layer has a kraft-paper backing, it can trap moisture and turn the layers underneath into a soggy mess.”
Maintenance and regular inspections can extend the life of your moisture barriers. Periodically inspect visible portions of your moisture barrier for signs of damage or deterioration. Pay special attention to areas prone to moisture issues, such as basements and crawl spaces.
If you notice any tears, gaps, or other damage to your moisture barrier, address it right away to prevent moisture problems from developing.
While the terms “moisture barrier” and “vapor barrier” are often used interchangeably, there are subtle differences between the two. Moisture barriers block both liquid water and water vapor, while vapor barriers focus on blocking water vapor only.
Many products do both jobs, but you should know what your barrier is designed to do and pick the right one for your project. When deciding between moisture and vapor barriers, think about what your project needs. Consider the climate, the materials you’re using, and the nature of your construction to make the best choice.
Keep your home in tip top shape by tackling these maintenance tasks this season.
As temperatures drop and winter approaches, you’ll need to prepare your home for the challenges that cold weather brings. From sealing air leaks to preventing water damage, there are numerous tasks homeowners should tackle to ensure their property remains safe, comfortable, and energy-efficient throughout the winter months. This guide will walk you through essential winter home maintenance tasks, helping you protect your investment and stay cozy all season long.
Winter can be harsh on your home’s exterior, but with proper preparation, you can minimize potential damage and keep your home in top shape. Here are key areas to focus on:
Now that temperatures are dipping, search for spots where your home is losing its heat.
Air leaks can significantly impact your home’s energy efficiency and comfort. To identify problem areas:
Once you’ve identified leaks, use adhesive-backed EPDM rubber or foam weatherstripping to seal gaps around windows and doors. For drafty door bottoms, add an insulating sweep. Don’t forget to patch leaky seams in ductwork with HVAC foil tape.
Clogged gutters can lead to ice dams and water damage. Before winter sets in:
Consider installing gutter guards to reduce future maintenance needs and prevent clogs.
Water seeping into cracks can freeze and expand, causing significant damage to asphalt driveways. To prevent this:
Taking these steps now can prevent costly repairs come spring.
Roof damage is another concern during winter. Visually inspect your shingles for any signs of damage, such as curling, cracking, or missing shingles. Repairing these issues before snow hits can prevent leaks and prolonged damage to the roof’s structure. Be sure to check the flashing around chimneys and vents to ensure it is secure and watertight.
Ideally, hire a professional to conduct a thorough inspection if you feel uncomfortable checking the roof yourself.
Pro Tip: Norm Abram, master carpenter on This Old House, advises that you don’t even have to climb up on the roof to check for trouble: “Get a pair of binoculars, and you can scan nearly every square inch from the ground or on a short ladder.” On an asphalt roof, look for cracked, cupped, curling, or broken shingles. Cracked or curling shingles can be temporarily repaired with roofing cement, while broken and cupped shingles should be replaced.
Keeping your home warm and energy-efficient is a top priority during winter. Here’s how to optimize your indoor environment:
Proper attic insulation is crucial for maintaining a comfortable home temperature and reducing energy costs. Check your attic for:
Use canned urethane spray foam to insulate around pipes and cables where they enter the attic.
To ensure your system is ready:
Consider upgrading to a programmable or smart thermostat to better control your home’s temperature and reduce energy costs.
Pro Tip: Flashing failures around chimneys are the most common source of roof leaks. As roofer Tom Mulloy explained in This Old House Magazine, “Eighty percent of the calls I get about leaking roofs center around a chimney that’s not properly flashed.” If your chimney penetrates the roof below the ridge, make sure a cricket—a small, peaked diverter—is installed on the upslope side to keep water, snow, and ice from collecting against the masonry.
A simple yet effective way to improve your home’s heating efficiency is to reverse the direction of your ceiling fans. As Kevin O’Connor, This Old House Host, advises: “One easy way to ease your heating bill: Reverse the direction of your ceiling fan, so it runs clockwise, which will push down and recirculate the warm air that collects at the ceiling. “
Pro Tip: Tommy Silva, This Old House general contractor, puts the problem in perspective: “Imagine this—an eight-inch crack around the front door and the back door lets as much air into the house as if you had a small window open halfway.” He recommends checking the full perimeter of your doors and installing door sweeps on the bottom, along with weather stripping up the sides and across the top of the jamb to close those gaps.
Another critical area for maintaining indoor comfort is ensuring the integrity of your windows and doors. Check for condensation between window panes, which can indicate broken seals. Repair any damaged weather stripping around doors to prevent drafts. For an extra layer of insulation, consider using thermal window treatments, such as heavy curtains or cellular shades, which can significantly reduce heat loss.
Old insulation may be compressed or have fallen out of framing bays, leaving bare spots. Thin R-19 batts should be upgraded to at least R-38 batts, or R-49 if you live in northern regions. Use canned urethane spray foam to insulate around pipes and cables where they enter the attic.
Find out if your local utility offers audits for free or at a low cost, or partners with a local company to do them. Prices range from about $100 for a walk-through and bill assessment to an average of about $400 for a more thorough investigation. Some utilities also offer free or discounted air-sealing materials and rebates for energy-saving upgrades such as insulation, air sealing, and energy-efficient appliances. For more information on energy audits, go to: energy.gov/energysaver/home-energy-assessments.
One easy way to ease your heating bill: Reverse the direction of your ceiling fan, so it runs clockwise, which will push down and recirculate the warm air that collects at the ceiling. –Kevin O’Connor, This Old House Host
Proper maintenance of your home’s appliances and systems can prevent breakdowns and improve efficiency during the winter months.
Before the holiday cooking season begins, give your oven a thorough cleaning. Try this safe and effective method:
A well-maintained water heater ensures hot water throughout winter. To keep it running efficiently:
Consider insulating your water heater and hot water pipes to improve energy efficiency and reduce heat loss.
Regular HVAC maintenance is crucial for winter comfort. In addition to professional servicing:
Addressing HVAC issues early can prevent costly breakdowns during the coldest months.
If your home has a fireplace, regular maintenance is crucial for safe usage during winter. Have a professional inspect and clean the chimney to remove any creosote buildup, which can be a fire hazard. Ensure the flue damper opens, closes, and seals properly. For added safety, install a chimney cap to prevent debris, rain, or animals from entering your chimney.
A well-maintained water heater ensures hot water throughout winter. To keep it running efficiently:
Consider insulating your water heater and hot water pipes to improve energy efficiency and reduce heat loss.
Regular HVAC maintenance is crucial for winter comfort. In addition to professional servicing:
Addressing HVAC issues early can prevent costly breakdowns during the coldest months.
Pro Tip: Richard Trethewey stresses the importance of filter quality: “All the air you breathe comes through that filter. You can’t change it too often, but never let it go for more than a year.” While you’re swapping the filter, check the blower belt’s wear and tension—a loose belt can slow the blower and reduce the system’s ability to move heated air through your ductwork.
If your home has a fireplace, regular maintenance is crucial for safe usage during winter. Have a professional inspect and clean the chimney to remove any creosote buildup, which can be a fire hazard. Ensure the flue damper opens, closes, and seals properly. For added safety, install a chimney cap to prevent debris, rain, or animals from entering your chimney.
Winter storms can lead to power outages and other emergencies. Being prepared is key to staying safe and comfortable.
If you have a portable generator, a manual transfer switch allows for safer, more convenient power during outages. This device:
Always run fuel-burning generators outdoors to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning.
A well-stocked emergency kit is always a good idea for winter preparedness. Include:
Store your kit in an easily accessible location and review its contents annually.
With heightened heating during winter, ensure you understand the dangers of carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning. Install CO detectors on every floor of your home, particularly near sleeping areas. Regularly test and replace the batteries as needed. If your detector sounds or you experience symptoms like headaches, dizziness, or nausea, leave the house immediately and seek fresh air.
Preparing your outdoor areas for winter is crucial for safety and property protection.
To prevent slips and falls on icy surfaces, This Old House Mason Mark McCullough advises: “To prevent slipping on icy asphalt driveways or granite walkways, spread them with a 50-50 mix of rock salt and sand. The salt will help melt the ice, while the sand will put traction underfoot. Just keep the salt away from concrete, mortared masonry joints, and vegetation-it will damage them. “
Before the first snowfall:
Having your equipment ready will make snow removal less of a chore when the time comes.
To preserve your outdoor items:
Taking these steps will help ensure your outdoor spaces are ready for spring.
An often-overlooked area of winter preparation is ensuring your vehicle is ready for the season. Assemble a winter car kit that includes items such as an ice scraper, shovel, blankets, extra warm clothes, non-perishable snacks, and a first aid kit. This preparation can be crucial for safety if you find yourself stuck in winter conditions away from home.
Winter home maintenance is crucial for protecting your property and ensuring comfort throughout the cold months. By addressing air leaks, maintaining your heating system, preventing water damage, and preparing for emergencies, you’ll be well-equipped to face whatever winter brings.
Remember that while many of these tasks can be DIY projects, don’t hesitate to call in professionals for more complex jobs or if you’re unsure about any aspect of winter home maintenance. With proper preparation, you can enjoy a warm, safe, and efficient home all winter long.
Are you a Norm superfan? Enter for a chance to win the ultimate Norm fan bundle.
Hi, Norm fans!
To celebrate the upcoming The House That Norm Built Premiere on October 3rd (with early access to Insiders on September 29th), one lucky winner will receive the ultimate Norm fan bundle, including limited edition This Old House collectibles, a signed headshot, signed merchandise, and more! Check your local TV listings and enter below.
The grand prize winner will receive:
NORM GIVEAWAY: NO PURCHASE IS NECESSARY TO ENTER OR WIN. Entries must be received between 12:00:01 AM 9/19/22 and 11:59:59 PM ET 10/9/22. Open to legal residents of the 50 United States or the District of Columbia and Canada (excluding Quebec) 18 years of age or older. See Official Rules. Prize awarded: One (1) The House That Norm Built Hat, One (1) signed framed Norm headshot, One (1) book, One (1) signed This Old House mug, one (1) notebook, and one (1) carpenters’s pencil. Approximate value: $99.99
Sure, you’ll never have to come home to a dark house again, but smart lighting is great for home security, monitoring energy usage, and more.
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Smart lighting has evolved from a novelty to a practical tool that enhances our daily lives in numerous ways. From improving home security to creating the perfect ambiance, these intelligent devices offer a range of benefits that go far beyond simple illumination. This article explores five innovative uses for smart lighting and provides guidance on choosing the right devices for your home.
Smart lighting offers numerous possibilities for enhancing your home’s functionality and atmosphere. Below are five clever applications.
Smart lighting can be an effective tool for home security, particularly when you’re away. Many smart devices offer automation features that allow you to schedule lights to turn on and off, creating the illusion that someone is home. The Ecobee Switch+ goes a step further with a dedicated vacation mode that randomizes light patterns to add realism.
For a temporary solution, consider the Switchmate, a magnetic smart switch that easily attaches to existing light switches. Though it lacks a specific vacation mode, you can program it to operate lights on a schedule during your absence, providing a layer of security.
Smart plugs with energy monitoring capabilities, like the Emporia, allow you to track the power usage of individual appliances in real time. This information can help you identify energy-hungry devices and make informed decisions about your electricity consumption.
For a more comprehensive solution, the iDevices Wall Switch monitors energy usage for multiple light fixtures and ceiling fans, providing valuable insights into your home’s overall energy consumption. Understanding your energy use can lead to more efficient home management.
Pro Tip: One This Old House energy expert discovered just how powerful real-time monitoring can be: “My power usage jumped one day. I could see that very clearly. And I scrolled through all the pieces of this graph and I discovered that my refrigerator was using twice the power that it normally does. And I troubleshot that back to a bad defrost coil.” After a simple repair, power usage returned to normal—a fix that might have gone unnoticed for months without circuit-level monitoring.
High-quality smart bulbs, such as the Philips Hue E26 and LIFX Color, offer vibrant colors and can be integrated with other smart home devices through platforms such as If This Then That (IFTTT). This integration allows for creative alert systems, including:
These setups enhance both functionality and safety within your smart home ecosystem, providing peace of mind and convenience.
Smart bulbs excel in multipurpose spaces, allowing you to adjust lighting to suit different daily activities. For example, in a home office that doubles as a gym, you can program lights to mimic natural daylight during work hours and switch to energizing bright lights for workouts.
Some smart bulbs, such as the Connected Max Smart LED bulbs by Cree Lighting, feature a “follow the sun” mode that automatically adjusts light intensity to match outdoor conditions. This can help maintain a natural circadian rhythm and improve overall well-being, making your space more comfortable and adaptive.
For entertainment spaces, certain smart bulbs can sync with your TV or music system to create an immersive atmosphere. Philips Hue offers this feature, allowing lights to change color and intensity in real time based on the content you’re watching or listening to, enriching your experience.
“Use smart bulbs in light fixtures that don’t have dimmers already. Smart bulbs have their own built-in dimming technology, and most of them won’t work correctly if they aren’t operating at full power.”—Ross Trethewey, TOH Home Technology Expert
Smart lighting offers a convenient alternative to traditional motion-sensor floodlights, eliminating the need for complex electrical work. The Philips Hue Outdoor Sensor is a versatile, battery-powered option that can be placed anywhere to trigger nearby smart lights when motion is detected, enhancing both safety and convenience.
Smart lighting systems typically work with your home’s Wi-Fi network, making them easy to install and control. However, it’s essential to ensure your Wi-Fi signal is strong enough to support these devices, especially for outdoor installations. Conduct a speed test to verify your network’s capabilities before investing in smart lighting. If your upload speed is less than 5 Mbps, consider upgrading your router or adding a range extender to improve connectivity.
When setting up smart lighting in your home, it’s vital to choose the right type of device for each application.
Pro Tip: Ross, a This Old House electrician, recommends that most people start by upgrading their existing switches to a smart switch: “It gives you on-off local control, dimming capability. It works with your app or smart speaker to control it for a schedule.” He adds that smart switches work with just about any light bulb on the market. However, swapping in a smart switch does require an electrician because you’re working with the power wire—which is why, as Ross notes, “if people don’t want to get into the wiring, they reach for a smart light bulb” since it’s super DIY-friendly with built-in Wi-Fi.
Here’s a guide to help you select the most appropriate smart lighting solution for different areas of your home:
Best for: Controlling individual lamps, night lights, and small appliances like coffee makers, dehumidifiers, and air purifiers. Smart plugs are easy to install and offer remote control via smartphone apps, making them a versatile option for various devices.
Pro Tip: Smart plugs are best for controlling individual lamps, night-lights, and items such as coffee makers, dehumidifiers, and air purifiers. Simply insert the smart plug into an electrical outlet, then plug the appliance into it—the power to the plug can be turned on and off from anywhere using a smartphone app. Smart bulbs, on the other hand, are best for adjusting the brightness, color temperature, and hue of lights, from warm candlelight to neon brights—just screw them into your existing fixtures.
Best for: Managing multiple light fixtures and ceiling fans on a single circuit. Smart switches are more cost-effective and reliable than using multiple smart bulbs in rooms with numerous light sources, such as kitchens or living rooms, providing a unified control method.
Many smart switches also function as dimmers, providing greater control over your lighting. Installation requires some electrical knowledge, but they typically take 30–45 minutes to set up and offer significant convenience and functionality.
Pro Tip: Smart switches can also solve the common frustration of rooms with too many individual switches. In one This Old House project, a kitchen had six lights spread across four separate switches—making it nearly impossible to turn everything on or off at once. By replacing the existing switches with smart versions and pairing them with a wireless remote, the homeowner gained the ability to group all six lights together for single-button “all on” and “all off” control, while still keeping individual switch control at each location. The remote mounts with a wall plate to look like a conventional switch, with no additional wiring or wall cuts required.
Best for: Adjusting brightness, color temperature, and hue in individual light fixtures. Smart bulbs offer the most flexibility in terms of lighting customization and are easy to install in existing fixtures, allowing personalized lighting in any room.
Smart lighting can play a role in creating a more automated and efficient home environment. Here are some additional ways to integrate smart lighting into your home automation system:
By incorporating these features, you can create a more responsive and personalized lighting experience throughout your home, adding both convenience and aesthetic appeal.
Pro Tip: Jeff, a home automation specialist featured on This Old House, explains the power of scene creation: “What I really like is the ability to combine different lights together and create different scenes. So, for instance, if we’re cooking we want all the lights as bright as possible. But when it comes time to dining we want to dim the lights and create a different atmosphere.” He also notes that geofencing can enhance your arrival home: “We can set the system up so that we can be five minutes away remotely on our phone. We can light up the pathway right to the house.”
Proper insulation is the best way to maximize comfort and minimize energy bills. Here are some common types.
Proper insulation maximizes comfort and minimizes energy bills in your home. As This Old House general contractor Tom Silva says, “It’s the wisest way to invest that I know of. A well-insulated house will make you more comfortable in every season. And it’s quieter, too.”
Our guide explores the various types of insulation available, their benefits, and how to choose the right option for your home. We’ll also cover proper installation techniques, common mistakes to avoid, and ways to enhance your home’s energy efficiency through insulation.
There are several common types of insulation materials, each with its own advantages and application methods. We explore the most popular options below.
Fiberglass batts are the most common type of insulation in U.S. homes. They’re inexpensive and quick to install, making them a popular choice for professionals and do-it-yourself (DIY) enthusiasts.
Pros:
Cons:
Silva recommends using unfaced batts covered in plastic with all seams taped shut rather than relying on batts with attached kraft paper facing for vapor protection.
Foam insulation, particularly low-density polyurethane spray foam, is Silva’s preferred insulation. It offers several benefits compared to traditional insulation materials.
Pros:
Cons:
While the initial cost of spray foam is higher, its superior performance can lead to long-term savings through reduced heating and cooling costs.
Cellulose insulation uses recycled paper products, primarily newspaper. It’s treated with boron compounds for fire and pest resistance.
Pros:
Cons:
Mineral wool insulation, also called rock wool or slag wool, is made from recycled materials such as blast furnace slag and basalt.
Pros:
Cons:
In addition to the common insulation types, several specialized options are available that may work for specific applications or homeowner preferences.
Cotton batts made from recycled denim offer an eco-friendly alternative to traditional insulation materials.
Pros:
Cons:
While not technically insulation, radiant barriers can help keep houses cool by reflecting thermal radiation. They’re particularly effective in warm climates.
Pros:
Cons:
XPS is a rigid foam insulation with excellent moisture resistance and high R-value per inch.
Pros:
Cons:
Selecting the appropriate insulation for your home involves weighing several factors to get the right balance between performance and cost.
When choosing insulation, consider the following:
Your local climate plays a big role in what makes the best insulation for your home. Higher R-values are generally needed in colder climates, while home insulation helps reduce energy bills by keeping heat out in warmer climates.
While higher-quality insulation materials offer better performance, they also have a higher price tag. When weighing the initial cost of insulation, consider the long-term energy savings.
Proper insulation placement throughout your home creates a continuous thermal envelope.
The attic is one of the most important areas to insulate. It can account for substantial heat loss during winter and a lot of heat gain in summer. When insulating an attic, make sure you do it properly to prevent moisture buildup.
Properly insulated walls maintain a comfortable indoor temperature. You can add blown-in insulation to an existing home without major renovations.
Insulating basements and crawl spaces can significantly improve your home’s energy efficiency. The best way to insulate an existing concrete block wall is often to use foam board or spray foam insulation.
You’ll have to install your insulation correctly to achieve its rated R-value for maximum energy efficiency. A poor installation can reduce the insulation’s effectiveness and potentially lead to other issues like moisture buildup.
Take these steps for a DIY installation:
Consider hiring a professional for the following applications:
Professional installers have the experience and equipment to ensure proper installation and maximum effectiveness.
Avoiding these common mistakes helps your insulation perform as intended:
Choosing the right wainscoting style can hide wall imperfections left behind by removed wallpaper while elevating your home's design. Beadboard and board and batten are both excellent options for a 1950s home.
What style of wainscoting should I use in a 1950s home to cover up the imperfections of old wallpaper that was removed? – Sharon S., Maple Lake
Hi, Sharon—great question! I love the idea of using wainscoting here because it will cover up the imperfections and elevate the design. There are so many styles of wainscoting that it can feel challenging to drill down on what would work best.
My recommendations are beadboard or board and batten. The vertical grooves in the beadboard naturally disguise uneven walls and have a very clean, timeless look. Board and batten work well in updated homes that mix old and new and look a bit more structured and architectural. Both are great options, so it really just comes down to which style you visually like more.
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Join This Old House and Ask This Old House electrician Heath Eastman for a live Insider Q&A! Whether you're upgrading your electrical system, troubleshooting a problem, or planning a new project, Heath is ready to answer your questions.
When two rooms share an open sightline, repeating the same rug can feel unimaginative. A designer explains how to choose complementary rugs that keep each space feeling distinct.
We have a small 1,400 square foot home. Our living room is small and looks into our eating area with sliding glass doors to a pretty screened-in porch. The walls are creamy yellow. Do I put the same area rug (5×7) under the eating area rug as the same 5×7 in our living room. I’m talking about same color and design. – Judy B., Vincennes
Hi, Judy! Thank you so much for your question. I would not repeat the same rug under the dining table that you have in the living area. Regardless of the size of the home, I would never recommend repeating rugs because each area should feel distinct, even if they are close together. In this case, I actually think I would leave the space under the dining table open which may make it feel a bit bigger rather than cutting the floor off with a rug. If having a rug under the dining table is a non-negotiable for you, I would look for rugs that have either similar or complimentary colors but not the same pattern. I love rug lines that Loloi releases with Chris Loves Julia and Amber Lewis because each of their rugs are meant to be complementary to each other in style and color, while still feeling different.
Three-way switches are tricky to understand and install (especially smart variations). Luckily, master electrician Heath Eastman explains everything we need to know.
Single-pole switches are typically a breeze. However, a lot of folks struggle with three-way switches, especially smart models. Master electrician Heath Eastman shows us exactly how to handle it, installing a smart new three-way switch to help control lighting in a stairway.
A three-way switch refers to the type of switch used on a circuit where two individual switches control a light or device. They’re common in hallways, stairways, and other locations where controlling a device from two locations is convenient. They’re slightly trickier to install than a standard single-pole switch, but a DIYer can handle the job.
Three-way switches come in two variations: traditional and smart switches. A smart 3-way switch can actually be easier to install and give homeowners more control over their lighting.
Pro Tip: What makes a three-way switch different from a standard single-pole is its internal wiring. A three-way switch has three connections: a common screw, which is always a darker color and carries power either into or out of the switch; two traveler screws, which are the same color (typically brass or silver) and allow the two switches to communicate with each other; and a ground. The traveler wires are what enable you to control the same light from two different locations—power literally travels back and forth between the switches.
Pro Tip: Why Keep the Mechanical Switch? While a smart remote at the second location offers a clean, wireless setup, there’s a practical reason many homeowners opt for the mechanical switch instead. As the This Old House team explained during the project: “In this situation, though, we want to keep the mechanical switch like we have. It’s just simpler to use when guests come in and out.” A traditional toggle is intuitive for anyone, no app or pairing required.
At the top of the stairs Heath installed: Lutron Diva Smart Dimmer Switch for Caseta Smart Lighting, 150-Watt LED.
At the bottom of the stairs Heath installed: Lutron Pico Smart Remote Wall Mounting Kit, for Caseta Smart Dimmer Switch 3-Way Applications.
Switch manufacturer: Lutron
Pro Tip: Heath notes that the Pico remote can be mounted with a wall plate to make it look like a conventional wall switch—no wiring or wall cutting required. Additionally, adding the Lutron smart hub gives you control of the system from your phone or tablet, letting you group switches together, set timers, and schedule lighting events throughout the house.
Ask This Old House master electrician Heath Eastman helps a homeowner connect four separate switches to control six lights in the same room.
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Controlling multiple lights from different locations in your home can be a challenge, especially when you’re dealing with an unusual configuration. Smart switches and wireless technology offer a convenient solution. This article will guide you through the process of wirelessly connecting multiple light switches for greater control and convenience in your home lighting setup. In the video above, Ask This Old House master electrician Heath Eastman demonstrates how to install and program a wireless light switch system in a kitchen with six lights controlled by multiple switches.
Wireless light switch systems have come a long way since their introduction over 30 years ago. Today’s technology offers reliable, user-friendly solutions for controlling multiple lights from various locations without the need for complex wiring. These systems allow homeowners to customize their lighting arrangements without extensive electrical work.
As Wilson Rothman reported in This Old House Magazine, early whole-house lighting control required either expensive rewiring or X-10 automation technology that sent signals through existing power lines—a system that “never really caught on because electrical interference tended to garble the signals.” Improvements in wireless technology have since made reliable, affordable retrofit solutions possible for virtually any home.
A typical wireless light switch system consists of several key components:
Pro Tip: On a recent This Old House project, electrician Ross explained the appeal of upgrading to smart switches: “It’s great about that gives you on off local control dimming capability. It works with your app or smart speaker to control it for a schedule, for example.
On a This Old House project, the team demonstrated how the smart switch, remote, and hub work together as a system: “We can take the existing switches, install a smart switch in its place — it wires the exact same way that one does. The plus to this is we still have the local control that you currently have. But then we pair it with a remote and the remote can group all of them together to turn them all on or all off together.” The remote can even be fitted with a standard wall plate “to make it look like a conventional wall switch,” with no wiring or wall cutting required. Adding the smart hub then gives you control “over your phone or a tablet” and lets you “group individual light switches or other controls together or separate them and you could set timers, reminders, events to control anything in the house.”
Wireless light switch systems offer several advantages for homeowners:
Despite their benefits, wireless light switch systems have certain limitations:
Installing wireless light switches is a relatively straightforward process that most homeowners can accomplish with basic DIY skills. However, if you’re uncomfortable working with electrical wiring, consult a professional electrician. Let’s examine the process to ensure a safe and efficient installation.
Follow these steps to install wireless light switches:
Once the switches are installed, you’ll need to program them to work together. Here’s a general guide to programming:
Eastman shows this process in action, linking multiple switches to a single remote for convenient control of all the kitchen lights.
Pro Tip: During a This Old House kitchen project, the team demonstrated the pairing process in detail: first, press and hold the bottom button on the smart switch for about six seconds until the LEDs light up, indicating it’s in programming mode. Then, press and hold the bottom button on the remote. Once the devices link, the LEDs will flash again to confirm the connection—at which point you can test it out to verify the two are paired.
One of the advantages of wireless light switch systems is their scalability. You can easily expand the system to control more lights or add functionality over time. This flexibility allows homeowners to continually improve their lighting setup.
To add more switches or remotes to your existing system, follow these steps:
Many wireless light switch systems can be integrated with broader smart home platforms. This allows for enhanced control and additional features. To integrate the system, follow these steps:
Advanced features can further enhance your lighting system:
Pro Tip: Ross, a licensed electrician featured on This Old House, highlights the value of scenes: “What I really like is the ability to combine different lights together and create different scenes. So for instance, if we’re cooking, we want all the lights as bright as possible. But when it comes time to dining, we want to dim the lights and create a different atmosphere.”
While modern wireless light switch systems are generally reliable, you may occasionally encounter issues. Here are some common problems and their solutions to keep your system running smoothly:
Wireless light switch systems have applications beyond just replacing existing switches. They offer creative solutions for various lighting challenges and preferences. Here are some ideas to enhance convenience and functionality:
Eastman installed the Caseta by Lutron Smart Kit. This included three In-Wall Smart Dimmer Switches to replace the old switches, two Pico Smart Remotes for Dimmers at both entryways to communicate with all the other switches, and a Smart Bridge to connect it all to the Internet. The kit is manufactured by Caseta.
All the other materials Eastman used for this project, including the two gang cover plate and the screwdriver, can be found at home centers.
Expert assistance with this segment was provided by Eaton and Eastman Electric.
Learn about radiation in the home, common radiation sources, and whether radioactive household products pose real health risks.
Radiation in the home can sound alarming, but small amounts are part of everyday life. Many natural materials—including soil, stone, and even some household items—emit low levels of radiation. In most cases, exposure is minimal and not considered dangerous. The main concern for homeowners is radon gas, which can build up indoors over time.
Most indoor radiation comes from naturally occurring elements found in the ground and building materials. This everyday exposure is part of the background radiation indoor environments receive naturally.
According to the U.S. Department of Energy, the average American is exposed to 3 mSv of background radiation every year from natural sources like radon and cosmic rays from space. Consumer products contribute only a small portion of exposure.
Radon is a naturally occurring gas formed when uranium breaks down in soil and rock. It can enter homes through foundation cracks, sump pits, and crawl spaces. In some areas, radon can also enter homes through groundwater from private wells.
Because radon is invisible and odorless, testing is the only way to detect it. The EPA recommends installing a mitigation system if radon levels reach 4 picocuries per liter (pCi/L) or higher and considering taking action even if the levels are between 2 and 4 pCi/L. Long-term exposure to elevated radon levels increases lung cancer risk.
For most homeowners, this is the only radiation source that requires regular attention. Testing for radon is the most practical step you can take.
Granite countertops and other natural stone materials can contain trace amounts of uranium and thorium. These elements release very small amounts of radiation.
In nearly all cases, the levels are extremely low and fall within normal background radiation ranges. Granite countertops are not considered a significant health risk.
Many ionization smoke detectors contain a tiny, sealed amount of americium-241. This radioactive material helps detect smoke particles in the air.
The radioactive source is enclosed and safe under normal use. Smoke detectors are considered safe and essential for home fire protection.
Some decorative ceramics made before the 1970s used uranium-based glazes for bright colors.
While these pieces can emit low levels of radiation, occasional display or limited use is unlikely to pose a risk. Damaged or heavily worn antique dishware should not be used for serving food.
Also known as Vaseline glass, this collectible glassware contains small amounts of uranium oxide, which gives it a yellow or green tint.
Radiation levels are generally low and decrease significantly with distance. These items are typically safe as display pieces, though not for food or drink.
Tobacco plants absorb naturally occurring radioactive elements from soil. When tobacco is burned, small amounts of these particles can be inhaled.
This contributes to radiation exposure in smokers and those exposed to secondhand smoke.
Clocks and watches manufactured before the 1960s sometimes used radium paint to create a glow-in-the-dark effect.
Intact pieces generally emit low levels of radiation, but deteriorating paint can release radioactive dust. For safety, these items should remain sealed and as display pieces and should not be opened or restored without precautions.
Cathode ray tube (CRT) televisions, once common in homes, were capable of emitting very small amounts of X-ray radiation during operation.
Thankfully, modern flat-screen televisions do not produce X-rays, and most CRT units have been phased out of residential use.
Radiation in the home is usually part of normal background exposure. While some radioactive household products and natural materials emit small amounts of radiation, the only common indoor source that poses meaningful risk is radon gas. With simple testing and maintenance, most homeowners can keep indoor radiation levels well within safe limits.
Keeping connected rooms feeling cohesive without blending them together is a common challenge in open-concept homes. A designer explains how to use color, wood tones, and décor to unify spaces while giving each one its own distinct vibe.
I have a rectangular home with a layout that resembles a double-wide design—though it’s not, it’s a regular house. The kitchen and living room share the same space. There’s also an addition that sits a few steps lower than the main area, where the foyer, game room, and laundry room are located. How can I maintain a cohesive flow throughout the house without blending the rooms together too much, especially given the rectangular layout? – Brooke H., Christianburg, VA
Hi, Brooke! This is a great question and one that I think many people struggle with, especially in open-concept homes. I would pick two to three main colors that you want to carry through each room that shares a space.
In my home, I decided I wanted white walls with beige, black, and a dark wood tone as the main colors in my living room and kitchen which are connected, but separate spaces. For the living room, I decided to only incorporate natural greenery as the one color against the white, wood, black and beige, to keep the room feeling very minimal and relaxing. For the kitchen however, I incorporated large colorful art on the walls full of jewel tones, and colorful cookbooks on the floating shelves to give the space a more lived in feel. If you are in one room looking into another, they feel very cohesive, but as you step into each, they give off different vibes.
For your house, painting all of the walls the same color will automatically give the spaces a cohesive feel. I also recommend matching the tones of your main furniture pieces (ex: use similar wood tones throughout for any wood stained furniture). From there, each space should have wall décor and decorative accents that separate it from the rest.
There’s a national trend toward burying utility lines underground—especially in storm-prone areas. The homeowners of Season 47’s Walpole Ranch with an ADU project saw a chance to make it happen at their place.
Homeowners across the United States are becoming more and more familiar with the dreaded experience of losing power for an extended time – whether it is from a blizzard in New England, a wildfire in California, or a hurricane in Florida. Each event invariably prompts the question, ‘Why aren’t the utility lines underground?’
The good news is that more and more communities are burying their utility lines, a process called ‘undergrounding.’
There are numerous factors behind the trend toward undergrounding. Wildfire prevention is one such factor, given that overhead power lines are known to have ignited destructive wildfires in California (Los Angeles, Paradise), Hawaii (Lahaina), and Texas (Smokehouse Creek) in recent years. California has mandated the state’s big utilities must develop 10-year underground plans to address wildfire risk.
Strong storms can bring down trees that in turn take out power lines. Florida Power & Light found that underground neighborhood power lines performed 5 to 14 times better than overhead lines during the 2024 hurricane season, which included three hurricanes.
“The U.S. power grid is simultaneously reaching the end of its design life and facing unprecedented demand growth,” according to Utility Pipe Supply, experts in underground construction materials and tools. “AI-driven data centers, electric vehicle charging infrastructure, and industrial electrification are driving what industry analysts call a once-in-a-century infrastructure buildout.”
Other factors include the improved aesthetics of no poles or wires, safety considerations to reduce risk from downed power lines, and decreased time and money spent to trim vegetation around power lines.
At the TOH TV Walpole project, homeowners Dan and Jill found themselves in an unexpected situation that enabled them to underground their power lines. The key factors? Their original overhead service from a pole in the street to their garage had to be disconnected when they demoed the garage, and they fortunately had another utility pole in their backyard, a short distance from the accessory dwelling unit (ADU) they were building.
“I wanted to do it because I saw an opportunity to not have anything connected above ground,” says Dan. “It was a combined effort to put everything related to the utilities underground, not only the electrical service but also our propane tank, which is buried near the house.” After receiving approval from their local electrical service provider, the homeowners worked with their electrician to dig a trench and bury the conduit.
Most homeowners, however, find themselves in a situation beyond their control, where the power lines in their entire town or neighborhood are either underground or overhead. Even with all the positive factors in support of undergrounding, widespread adoption is slow and there is a big difference between new and existing neighborhoods.
On the plus side, in many places across the country, new residential and commercial developments are required to have underground utility lines—for safety, storm resilience, and grid reasons.
However, converting an existing community-wide overhead power line situation to one underground is much more difficult primarily due to the cost of a large-scale project.
“Current cost benchmarks for overhead-to-underground conversion range from $3 million to $5 million per overhead pole-mile,” notes a report by Kimley-Horn, experts in engineering, design, and infrastructure planning.
That cost, however, is increasingly seen as a worthwhile long-term investment given the toll that loss of power takes and the proven superiority of underground lines during storms. An analysis by Florida Power & Light found that the savings from undergrounding can approach hundreds of millions of dollars for major storms.
Other studies suggest that co-undergrounding—burying both electric and broadband internet lines together—is not only more cost-effective than replacing them separately, it also pays for itself in the cost benefit of avoiding outages. The benefits from avoiding outages are based on factors like “spoiled food, damaged home appliances, missed remote work hours and increased use of backup power sources,” according to research by the University of Massachusetts Amherst.
To fund overhead-to-underground conversions, some communities turn to a combination of disaster relief funds, federal grants, and private money. For example, in 2017, one community in Rhode Island worked with federal money, non-profit partners, and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to restore the scenic landscape on a stretch of road along Middletown, RI’s Sachuest Beach. That stretch of road had experienced downed power lines during Tropical Storm Sandy, and the road itself was eaten away by the storm’s surge. Motivated by both aesthetics and storm resilience, the community ultimately removed more than 100 utility poles, thereby preserving a beautiful vista and also improving the storm resilience of the coastal infrastructure.
As communities across the country increasingly deal with the power outages related to storms and wildfires, local voices can often help in the decision making needed to push for undergrounding. If residents organize and ask their town to commission a study, there can be shared brainstorming on ways to fund an overhead-to-underground conversion. Dig once is another popular approach, meaning that an undergrounding project gets tied to a road construction or infrastructure upgrade where the road will already be opened.
New residential developments are often mandated to bury utilities, but the progress in existing communities may only happen little by little in cases such as downtown beautification projects in historic districts, road reconstruction projects, economic development zones, or storm-vulnerable corridors. Overall, the trend for undergrounding is happening, but slowly.
An 1893 Dutch Colonial Revival house in Glen Ridge, NJ, stole the hearts of a couple who are committed to keeping the old-house character while adding modern upgrades for their growing family.
Homeowners Harley and Ethan didn’t set out to buy a house that needed a lot of renovating. But sometimes you have to follow your heart, and do a lot of demolition, to end up with your dream home. With a toddler in tow and a second baby due, the couple found an 1893 Dutch Colonial Revival house that reminded Harley of the house she had grown up in. “I saw this look on her face when we stepped into the house to view it, and I knew we’d end up here,” says Ethan.
Both of them fell for the house’s architectural character including the graciously sized rooms and the gambrel roof—hallmarks of Dutch Colonial Revival houses from the late 1800s and early 1900s.
“The house isn’t ornate, but every room has an interesting shape, the ceiling height is great, we loved the fireplaces, and it was the only house we looked at that was easy for us to understand how it would work for our family,” says Ethan, noting that the original floor plan was mostly intact.
“I loved the details like the pocket doors into the living room, the beautiful dining room windows, and the original built-ins in many rooms,” says Harley. “We were excited about the possibility of making the house our own.”
Turning to architect Dan Kopec and builder Zack Dettmore, the couple will upgrade the house for today’s living but also maintain original character. TOH TV is documenting the renovation as part of its 48th season.
As purchased, the 4,300 square foot house includes a full basement with a structurally sound stone foundation and a total of seven bedrooms—five on the second floor and two in the attic—but only two full baths. Plans are focusing on a better configuration of bedrooms and bathrooms, as well as a totally rebuilt kitchen, family room, and rear deck.
“All old houses are unique,” says Kopec, “and it is always a question of how much do we preserve original integrity and how much do we solve current problems.” For example, a family room tacked onto the back of the house in the 1980s was built on a slab and will need rethinking; adjacent to the kitchen, it is also the room where a mudroom entry makes the most sense. “Our plans will ensure that the family room addition is better integrated with the rest of the house,” says Kopec.
To understand exactly what they were facing once they had bought the house—but before renovation plans were finalized—Ethan demolished the kitchen himself. A carpenter who is no stranger to building tools, Ethan suspected there were issues hidden behind the kitchen walls and found evidence of several prior renovations that weren’t of high quality. Once the room was demoed, however, it was easy to envision where the cabinetry, island, and built-in seating along the rear windows could be placed.
The homeowners want the kitchen to still have a door to the rear deck, but they also want the adjacent family room to contain a mudroom—a necessity in a family with young children—and a mudroom entry from the driveway. There is currently a level change of four steps down from kitchen to family room and the plans call for a slight relocation of those interior steps to make room for the mudroom. The rear deck will also be totally rebuilt as it is in dangerous condition.
On the second floor, a small bedroom next to the primary bedroom will be converted to a primary bath and large closet to give Harley and Ethan a full primary suite, thereby reducing the number of second-floor bedrooms from five to four. One of the two hallway baths will be converted to a laundry, and one of the second-floor bedrooms will become Harley’s home office; the other two second-floor bedrooms will be the children’s rooms, with little remodeling needed.
The two bedrooms on the attic level will be reconfigured to make room for building a guest bathroom, while keeping one guest bedroom, and remaking another room as a multifunction space.
Plans for the HVAC system include keeping what is there—an oil-sourced boiler and steam radiators that heat the first, second, and third floors and an AC unit in the attic that cools the second floor and attic—and adding AC for the first floor.
Throughout the house, the plan is to preserve as many original features as possible, including nearly all the windows and interior doors, as well as one of the house’s most impressive elements: the central stairway running from first floor to attic. The original handrail, balusters, and newel posts are in excellent condition, and the design of the handrail itself is unusual in that it contains a recess under one side that a person’s fingers snugly fit into when grabbing the handrail. “It’s one of those details you see in an old house that make you marvel at the original craftsmanship that went into it,” says architect Dan Kopec.
One original feature that won’t be saved, however, is the flooring, which is in subpar condition due to holes drilled over the years to accommodate different heating systems and other damage. “We will replace it with reclaimed heart pine flooring so the house will still have floors similar in age to the original house,” says Zack. “I love that the homeowners have such a good ethos about wanting this to still be an old house.”
As much as they loved the house itself, one of the most compelling factors in Harley and Ethan’s decision to buy the house was the backyard. A sizable .55 acres, it was nearly three times the size of the yard of their current house and will provide them with the opportunity to realize another dream: to grow their own fruits and vegetables and raise chickens. “We love the yard and it influenced our decision quite a bit,” says Harley, who also liked the house’s existing garden shed.
Overall, it’s the dream of an old house perfectly suited to their life today that is at the heart of Harley and Ethan’s renovation plans. “We want a house that still has its character but also feels like our home,” says Harley. Adds Ethan: “We fell in love with an 1890s house and we will honor what was there while also modernizing a bit.”
