The Most Used Feature
Of all the working parts in a kitchen, the faucet might be the one we most often press into service. According to faucet manufacturer KWC, the average family turns on the tap more than 40 times a day, whether to fill a pasta pot, rinse off salad greens, or simply get a glass of water. That’s a lot of on-off cycles for a product that should last for years.
Today, these workaholic fixtures come in a wider variety of designs and price points than ever. High-end models can cost up to $2,500, but prices are actually trending in the opposite direction. In fact, you can score a kitchen faucet for as little as $15, though we don’t recommend it; expect to spend about $200 or more.
By and large, even budget-priced cartridge-valve faucets are a big improvement over their compression-valve cousins of yore. Better manufacturing and engineering helps them stay drip-free and last longer while keeping their looks, and quick-connect fittings have made them a cinch to install. Still, not all faucets are created equal. Beneath their shiny surfaces lurk differences in materials and technology that affect cost and longevity. Plus, the sheer number of choices on the market can be overwhelming.
Shown: Perrin & Rowe bridge faucet with sidespray in chrome, about $1,470; ROHL Home
Anatomy of a Kitchen Faucet
No matter how fancy or simple, they all contain the same basic elements.
Aerator: Reduces the water’s flow rate and curbs splashing.
Spout: Delivers water from the body to the sink.
Handle: Opens and closes the valve.
Valve Controls: the flow rate and water temperature.
Body: Blends hot and cold water headed for the spout.
Supply: lines Connect to the house’s hot and cold water pipes.
Kitchen Faucet Vitals
What’s the cost?
Cast-brass faucets start at roughly $200, and the cost of a high-end stainless-steel faucet tops out around $2,500. Prices depend on the faucet’s material, design, and finish.
Install it yourself or hire a pro?
A kitchen faucet is the simplest type to install. But call a pro if working on your back inside a cabinet isn’t your cup of tea.
How long will it last?
A faucet should work for a decade or longer. The finish may wear out first. Most brass and stainless-steel faucets made in the U.S. and Europe have lifetime warranties on parts; some warranties cover finishes, too. Plastic or zinc faucets may conk out in as little as five years.
What care is needed?
Wipe down with a soft cloth, warm water, and a gentle liquid dish soap. To preserve the finish, don’t use abrasives or ammonia.
Supply lines:
Connect to the house’s hot and cold water pipes.
What’s It Made Of?
Brass is the most popular option. It’s durable and easy to cast, and companies offer a wide variety of models and finishes. Some have sprayer heads made of plastic, so they weigh less and stay cool to the touch (not to mention they’re cheaper to make); other parts might be made of zinc. Do your research so that you know what you’re buying.
Stainless steel is another good, though expensive, choice. Not to be confused with stainless-steel finishes applied over brass, solid stainless-steel faucets don’t need a separate finish. Some companies apply a clear protective coating to resist water spots and fingerprints.
Plastic or zinc faucets are the least durable of the bunch. From the outside, they may look no different from brass faucets. The best way to tell them apart is to pick them up; plastic and zinc are light, while brass has serious heft.
The Right Type of Valve
To control water flow and temperature, today’s faucets use cartridge valves that enclose all the working parts in a single, easy-to-replace unit (meaning no washers to swap out). Some valves are made of plastic or metal, but the best ones house a pair of ultrahard, ultrasmooth ceramic discs that rarely leak and aren’t affected by hard-water deposits. The only drawback: The discs are brittle and can crack if they snag any debris, so make sure to flush your supply lines before installing the faucet. Cartridge valves differ by faucet make and model; if you ever need to replace one, order it directly from the manufacturer.
Low-End Fixtures
Brass is usually alloyed with lead to make it easier to cast. By law, faucets sold in the U.S. can’t contain more than 8 percent lead, but that lead can contaminate water sitting inside the faucet body for more than a few hours. (Running the tap for a few seconds will flush it out.) California and Vermont have enacted a stricter standard: a “maximum weighted average” of no more than 0.25 percent. For a list of nearly 7,000 faucets that meet this low-lead standard, go to NSF.org/consumer, or look for fixtures with the label NSF 61-G. rtridge valves differ by faucet make and model; if you ever need to replace one, order it directly from the manufacturer.
How’s the Finish Applied?
Electroplating
The most common (and oldest) method. The faucet is dipped in a bath of dissolved metal that adheres to the surface when a current is applied. Pro: Offers a durable, long-lasting finish. Con: Plating is susceptible to harsh cleansers.
Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD)
The faucet is placed in a vacuum and bombarded with metallic ions that bond to the surface. Pro: Results in a very hard, tough finish that doesn’t need a clear coat. Con: More expensive than other application methods.
Powder-Coating
The faucet is sprayed with a dry powder that cures when exposed to heat. Pro: Results in an even, thick finish layer.Con: Not as durable as PVD or electroplating.
Installation Tips
New faucets are so easy to put in that you barely need tools to do it. But for the best results, follow TOH plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey’s DIY advice.
1. Remove the old tap without damaging counters or cabinets. It’s tempting to loosen rusted-on nuts by applying heat with a propane torch, but a heat gun or hair dryer would be safer. Remove the nuts with water-pump pliers or a basin wrench.
2. Skip plumber’s putty if you have stone counters. Putty, often used to form a seal between the faucet base and the countertop, contains oils that can stain the stone. Most modern faucets have an O-ring in the base and don’t require a sealant.
