More in Tubs

Fixing a Worn-Out Tub Surround

Make an old tub surround look new with solid surfacing

solid surfaced tub
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Solid-surface kitchen countertops have been a favorite of designers and homeowners for years. The material is durable, stain-resistant and easy to clean. And because the color goes all the way through, the counter can take a light sanding if it suffers any nicks or scratches. Solid surfacing also works in the bathroom. Manufacturers offer vanity tops and vertical-grade solid surfacing that can be applied to tub and shower walls. It comes in 1/8- and ¼-in.-thick sheets that are glued to the existing wall. Specially designed molding creates a clean, finished look. Hiring a certified fabricator to cut and install the material will cost $700 to $800 for a three-wall, 5-ft. tub surround. But you can purchase a prepackaged kit (about $600) and install it yourself.

Material Matters
For our bath, we covered up the old yellow-tile walls around a 5-ft. tub with Wilsonart's SSV. The ⅛-in.-thick material comes in two solid colors (white and almond) and two granite patterns (white and beige). We chose Frosty White, one of the solid colors. The trim, included in the price of the kit, is available in seven colors. This lets you pick molding and a soap dish that match or contrast the wall panels. Kits include a pair of 30 X 60-in. wall panels and a single 60 X 60-in. panel. Shower-wall kits with 6-ft.-tall panels are available for two-wall ($480) and three-wall shower stalls ($640). Our installation was a bit atypical: The SSV wall panels extend from the tub up to the ceiling. In most baths, they stop 18 to 22 in. short. But all the tools and techniques shown here are essentially the same for any SSV wall system. For this installation, we enlisted the help of Dwain Burton, national product specialist for Wilsonart International, the manufacturer of Gibraltar solid surfacing.

Solid-surface kitchen countertops have been a favorite of designers and homeowners for years. The material is durable, stain-resistant and easy to clean. And because the color goes all the way through, the counter can take a light sanding if it suffers any nicks or scratches. Solid surfacing also works in the bathroom. Manufacturers offer vanity tops and vertical-grade solid surfacing that can be applied to tub and shower walls. It comes in 1/8- and ¼-in.-thick sheets that are glued to the existing wall. Specially designed molding creates a clean, finished look. Hiring a certified fabricator to cut and install the material will cost $700 to $800 for a three-wall, 5-ft. tub surround. But you can purchase a prepackaged kit (about $600) and install it yourself.

Material Matters
For our bath, we covered up the old yellow-tile walls around a 5-ft. tub with Wilsonart's SSV. The ⅛-in.-thick material comes in two solid colors (white and almond) and two granite patterns (white and beige). We chose Frosty White, one of the solid colors. The trim, included in the price of the kit, is available in seven colors. This lets you pick molding and a soap dish that match or contrast the wall panels. Kits include a pair of 30 X 60-in. wall panels and a single 60 X 60-in. panel. Shower-wall kits with 6-ft.-tall panels are available for two-wall ($480) and three-wall shower stalls ($640). Our installation was a bit atypical: The SSV wall panels extend from the tub up to the ceiling. In most baths, they stop 18 to 22 in. short. But all the tools and techniques shown here are essentially the same for any SSV wall system. For this installation, we enlisted the help of Dwain Burton, national product specialist for Wilsonart International, the manufacturer of Gibraltar solid surfacing.

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Installing the Panels

 

Installing the Panels

random-orbit sander on tub tiles
Photo by Keith Talley
1. Clean the tiles
Remove all caked-on dirt and soap scum with a random-orbit sander fitted with 80-grit sandpaper


Solid-surface panels can be glued to almost any wall surface if the surface is flat, structurally sound and perfectly clean. If any of the tiles are loose, pry them off and stick them back in place with ceramic-tile adhesive. If a vast majority of the tiles are loose, remove them and cover the wall with cement backerboard or water-resistant drywall. After protecting the tub bottom with cardboard or an old blanket, remove the showerhead, tub spout and faucet handles. Use a cold chisel and hammer to knock off towel racks or a wall-mounted soap dish. Then, wearing eye protection and either a dust mask or respirator, scuff-sand the tile using a random-orbit sander that's fitted with an 80-grit sandpaper disk (photo 2); wipe off the sanding dust with a damp rag. Next, measure the three walls and trim the panels, if necessary, to fit. Make them about 1/8 in. less than the wall width and height. You can trim the panels with a circular saw, but the quickest, cleanest cuts are made with a router and carbide-tipped straight bit with a top-mounted ball-bearing pilot. Clamp a straightedge guide to the panel and move the router from left to right. The ball-bearing pilot will ride against the straightedge guide and produce a perfectly straight cut. With all three panels trimmed to fit, make a cardboard template of the end wall of the shower. Measure to locate the exact position of the showerhead pipe, tub spout and faucet handle stems. Transfer these dimensions to the cardboard and cut out the holes. Test-fit the cardboard template to make sure the holes align with the pipes in the wall (photo 3) Install the large panel to the back wall of the tub first. Begin by applying continuous beads of silicone adhesive to the entire wall in a gridwork of horizontal and vertical stripes (photo 4). Space the beads about 6 in. apart and apply a double bead of silicone along the top and bottom of the wall, which will provide extra holding power. Next, use a plastic trowel with 1/8-in.-wide notches to spread the silicone across the wall. Then immediately press the panel to the wall (photo 5). Slip 1/16-in.-thick shims under the panel to hold it above the top of the tub. Firmly go over the entire surface with a J-roller to set the panel into the silicone. To lay out and cut the plumbing-end panel, put the cardboard template on top of the end panel and mark the locations of the holes. Remove the template and drill out the holes with a hole saw (photo 6). Cut larger holes with a router and straight bit. Test-fit the end panel to ensure that it fits over the pipes, then spread silicone on the wall and press the panel into place (photo 7) and go over it with a J-roller. Repeat for the opposite end panel.

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Finishing Up

 

Finishing Up

cardboard template for tub surround
Photo by Keith Talley
2. Make a cardboard template
You'll need a template of the plumbing-end wall to locate the showerhead, tub spout and faucet

With the panels in place, you're ready to install the decorative trim pieces that come with the kit. Measure the back wall and cut a length of molding 1/8 in. less; that allows the trim to expand without buckling. Apply silicone to the back of the molding and press it to the wall (photo 8). Hold it in place with several strips of masking tape. Repeat for the end walls. Next, cut and install the vertical corner trim in a similar manner. Again, hold it in place with masking tape. The ceramic tile on some tub surrounds will extend beyond the end panels by an inch or so. To conceal that last bit of tile, form corner trim from two flat pieces of molding joined at a 90-degree angle, and glue them to the tile with silicone (photo 9). Allow the silicone to dry for 24 hours before removing the tape and using your newly finished tub.

 
 

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