Build It | Live Edge Slab Table

Steps:

1. Before doing any work, determine the orientation of the table. Decide whether the live edge should face up or face down, see which face of the slab will look nicest on top, etc. For decorative tables, Tom likes having the live edge face up so it can be really celebrated. For more functional tables, like a dining room table, Tom likes the live edge down so there’s no gap between the flat surface of the table and the person sitting at the table. Mark the sides in the middle that will need to be cut.
2. Lay the slabs on a workbench with the sides you plan to cut facing the outside of the table. Cut straight edges on both sides of each slab with the track saw.
3. Put the slabs back in the correct orientation to check the size.
4. Remove the bark from the live edge using a hammer and chisel.
5. Once the bark is off, smooth out the edges with a grinder.
6. Sand the live edges with the palm sander. Do a few passes, starting with the rough sandpaper and work up to a smoother one.
7. Generously apply a coat of wood glue to both straight edges of the slabs and clamp the pieces together to dry.
8. Once the glue has dried, cut the rough edges on the short sides of the table with a track saw.
9. Sand the top of the table until the glue joint is perfectly blended.
10. Flip the table upside down and mark the desired location for the legs.
11. Cut two pieces of scrap wood to equal size and height and clamp them to the workbench around the tabletop.
12. Make a jig using the scrap wood to hold a router that’s wide enough to slide across the two rails.
13. Determine the appropriate depth to set the router by placing the jig over the four marks for the legs. Lower the router to the deepest point on the four marks.
14. Use the router to cut out four even sections based on the marks.
15. Drill holes in the table for the four legs. Then, screw the legs into the drilled holes with the wood screws.
16. Flip the table right side up on its legs. Apply a coat of amber shellac with the paintbrush to seal it. Let the shellac dry.
17. Lightly sand the table with the 320 grit sandpaper.
18. Apply three coats of tung oil to the table with a rag. Be sure to put the rag in a bucket of water when you’re finished. Let it dry overnight.
19. Apply three more coats of tung oil.

Pro Tip: This Old House general contractor Tom Silva notes that live-edge slabs require extra attention compared to standard lumber. As he explains: “Unlike lumber that’s been kiln-dried and milled to precise dimensions, slabs often don’t receive additional attention after they’ve been sawed from the log.” The wood can cup and twist as it acclimates, so you may also encounter knots and splits that need to be addressed before you begin assembly.

The leveling jig is critical because the underside of the tabletop isn’t milled flat, so it could rock if the legs were just screwed to it directly. To use the jig, shim the inverted slab up to just below the jig’s rails. Hold each leg in position and trace around its base. Place the jig’s sled over one base outline, lower the router, and lock its depth when the bit touches wood. If the bit clears the wood at the next outline, unlock and lower the router again, and relock it. But if the bit lifts the sled above the rails, don’t change the depth setting — move to the next outline. Repeat at the remaining outlines to find the lowest point, ensuring all four mortises end up on the same plane.

After routing the leg mortises, use a sharp chisel to square up the rounded corners left by the router bit. Hold the chisel with the bevel facing toward the mortise and the blade in line with the mortise edge. Give it a tap, then do the same on the adjacent side to create a clean, square corner that the leg base will fit snugly into.

Resources:
Tom recommends locating a local lumber yard or mill to find live edge slabs. A quick Internet search should help you identify the one closest to you. Give them a call, talk about the project you’d like to do, and see what types of wood they have. Tom and Kevin used a slab of maple from The Rustic Wood Shop.

For a more modern look, Tom ordered hairpin metal legs to attach to the bottom of the table. He used the 48″ I-Semble Hairpin Table Legs, available at Rockler Woodworking and Hardware.

To adhere the two boards together, Tom used wood glue, manufactured by Gorilla Glue.

To finish the slab, Tom applied a coat of amber shellac and then a coat of tung oil. These are both found at home centers and woodworking shops.

All the other tools Tom and Kevin used, including the hammers, chisels, reciprocating saw, sanders and clamps, can be found at home centers and woodworking shops.

Tommy found inspiration for this project at a store, where he spotted a live edge piece that had been assembled from multiple boards rather than cut from a single wide slab. As he explained: “More and more people are loving this. I saw this at a store and I figured I’d grab it to give me some inspiration.” He noted that the store piece featured metal legs for a contemporary feel, which became the jumping-off point for the console table design. Rather than seeking one massive slab, Tommy deliberately asked his local mill for a couple of narrower pieces — not only because a big wide piece is heavy and hard to move around, but also to make the glue-up more manageable.