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Condoman
Re: Well water pump.

You could wire a relay with the proper rating for your pump. The relay will operate with a push button you add to the box the relay is in. When the button is operated it will latch in the on position and stay operated until power is lost.

JLMCDANIEL
Re: Well water pump.

First I would call another well service company. Foot valves and pumps can be replaced without drilling new wells.

You could put in a relay to run the well, wired so that you have a manual button to energize the relay and the relay contacts supply the power to the pump. If power goes off the relay drops out and won't reset until you push the button.

Jack

Re: Well water pump.

2x JLM. Also, you could do a cheaper fix by filling a barrel with water to be used for priming, if it is needed later on.

tliberto
Re: Well water pump.
JLMCDANIEL wrote:

First I would call another well service company. Foot valves and pumps can be replaced without drilling new wells.

You could put in a relay to run the well, wired so that you have a manual button to energize the relay and the relay contacts supply the power to the pump. If power goes off the relay drops out and won't reset until you push the button.

Jack

Thanks, where can I get a relay, or how can I make one? I am an accountant, so I know nothing about relays. Thanks again.

Tom Liberto

johnjh2o
Re: Well water pump.

There is no reason for the relay. What you need is a foot valve and a new pump man.

Fencepost
Re: Well water pump.

I have to concur with the advise to contact a different service company. Foot valves can be replaced, though it's not recommended for a do-it-yourselfer because of the risk of dropping the pipe into the well -- and if that happens, you might be forced to drill a new well. Keep in mind that well pipe full of water can be very heavy*. On the other hand, if you have a driven well (or a small-bore drilled well) where the suction pipe also serves as the casing) then a new well may very well be necessary.

You don't need a relay system. All you need is to replace the existing pressure switch with one that has a low-pressure cutoff: if the water pressure drops below a certain point, the pump will shut off (or not turn on). These switches have a control lever on the side; to restart the pump after it loses pressure, hold the switch in the "start" position until enough pressure is built for it to maintain "on."

http://www.amazon.com/Square-FSG2J24M4CP-Pressure-Switch-Low-Pressure/dp/B000FKBY8W

On second thought, a relay might be easier to install if your pump is connected to a 110-120 volt outlet. This device is marketed to prevent power tools from restarting, but should work for your application:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=25189&site=ROCKLER

Neither of those solutions solves the problem of a leaky foot valve, which wastes electricity and puts unnecessary wear on your pump. As for the foot valve: you want to make sure that's the problem and that there's not a leak somewhere else. If you can shut off the water to the house & yard, monitor the pressure gauge. If it goes down, the leak is upstream of the main valve (between the foot valve and pump, or between the pump and the main valve). If it does not go down, then you likely have a leak elsewhere.

*In a 1-1/4" nominal diameter pipe, the most common size for single-pipe shallow-well above-ground pumps, there are 18 cubic inches of water per linear foot. That's about 0.65 pounds. Steel pipe weighs about 2.23 pounds/foot. Add those together, you get about 2.78 pounds/foot. Multiply that by the depth of your well (to the foot valve) and you'll get an approximation of the weight. So for a 20' depth, you're looking at around 55-60 pounds. On the other hand, if you have a submersible pump that's 300' down, you're looking at around 830 pounds, plus the weight of the pump and wire!

Fencepost
Re: Well water pump.

Edit: duplicate post.

keith3267
Re: Well water pump.

Is this a jet pump? If so, there should be a check valve in the pump that keeps it primed. If it is just a suction pump, why wouldn't a check valve between the pump and the well work to keep it primed.

I had a well with a jet pump about 35 years ago and I seem to recall that when this started happening, there was a ceramic disc in the pump that had to be replaced, but I forget all the details.

tliberto
Re: Well water pump.
Fencepost wrote:

I have to concur with the advise to contact a different service company. Foot valves can be replaced, though it's not recommended for a do-it-yourselfer because of the risk of dropping the pipe into the well -- and if that happens, you might be forced to drill a new well. Keep in mind that well pipe full of water can be very heavy*. On the other hand, if you have a driven well (or a small-bore drilled well) where the suction pipe also serves as the casing) then a new well may very well be necessary.

You don't need a relay system. All you need is to replace the existing pressure switch with one that has a low-pressure cutoff: if the water pressure drops below a certain point, the pump will shut off (or not turn on). These switches have a control lever on the side; to restart the pump after it loses pressure, hold the switch in the "start" position until enough pressure is built for it to maintain "on."

http://www.amazon.com/Square-FSG2J24M4CP-Pressure-Switch-Low-Pressure/dp/B000FKBY8W

On second thought, a relay might be easier to install if your pump is connected to a 110-120 volt outlet. This device is marketed to prevent power tools from restarting, but should work for your application:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=25189&site=ROCKLER

Neither of those solutions solves the problem of a leaky foot valve, which wastes electricity and puts unnecessary wear on your pump. As for the foot valve: you want to make sure that's the problem and that there's not a leak somewhere else. If you can shut off the water to the house & yard, monitor the pressure gauge. If it goes down, the leak is upstream of the main valve (between the foot valve and pump, or between the pump and the main valve). If it does not go down, then you likely have a leak elsewhere.

*In a 1-1/4" nominal diameter pipe, the most common size for single-pipe shallow-well above-ground pumps, there are 18 cubic inches of water per linear foot. That's about 0.65 pounds. Steel pipe weighs about 2.23 pounds/foot. Add those together, you get about 2.78 pounds/foot. Multiply that by the depth of your well (to the foot valve) and you'll get an approximation of the weight. So for a 20' depth, you're looking at around 55-60 pounds. On the other hand, if you have a submersible pump that's 300' down, you're looking at around 830 pounds, plus the weight of the pump and wire!

I purchased the

"SafetyGate™ Professional Retrofit Restart Protection Electrical Plug" and installed it yesterday. It works great. Just what I was looking for . Thanks for your help.

tliberto
Re: Well water pump.
Fencepost wrote:

I have to concur with the advise to contact a different service company. Foot valves can be replaced, though it's not recommended for a do-it-yourselfer because of the risk of dropping the pipe into the well -- and if that happens, you might be forced to drill a new well. Keep in mind that well pipe full of water can be very heavy*. On the other hand, if you have a driven well (or a small-bore drilled well) where the suction pipe also serves as the casing) then a new well may very well be necessary.

You don't need a relay system. All you need is to replace the existing pressure switch with one that has a low-pressure cutoff: if the water pressure drops below a certain point, the pump will shut off (or not turn on). These switches have a control lever on the side; to restart the pump after it loses pressure, hold the switch in the "start" position until enough pressure is built for it to maintain "on."

http://www.amazon.com/Square-FSG2J24M4CP-Pressure-Switch-Low-Pressure/dp/B000FKBY8W

On second thought, a relay might be easier to install if your pump is connected to a 110-120 volt outlet. This device is marketed to prevent power tools from restarting, but should work for your application:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=25189&site=ROCKLER

Neither of those solutions solves the problem of a leaky foot valve, which wastes electricity and puts unnecessary wear on your pump. As for the foot valve: you want to make sure that's the problem and that there's not a leak somewhere else. If you can shut off the water to the house & yard, monitor the pressure gauge. If it goes down, the leak is upstream of the main valve (between the foot valve and pump, or between the pump and the main valve). If it does not go down, then you likely have a leak elsewhere.

*In a 1-1/4" nominal diameter pipe, the most common size for single-pipe shallow-well above-ground pumps, there are 18 cubic inches of water per linear foot. That's about 0.65 pounds. Steel pipe weighs about 2.23 pounds/foot. Add those together, you get about 2.78 pounds/foot. Multiply that by the depth of your well (to the foot valve) and you'll get an approximation of the weight. So for a 20' depth, you're looking at around 55-60 pounds. On the other hand, if you have a submersible pump that's 300' down, you're looking at around 830 pounds, plus the weight of the pump and wire!

Thank you for your help. I purchased the SafetyGate™ Professional Retrofit Restart Protection Electrical Plug. It was just what I was looking for. It works great. Thanks again, I appreciate your help.

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