98 posts / 0 new
Last post
Lunker Lander
Re: wave ventilation

Sorry it's late to the party, I was looking into a Wave System and doing some research and came across this. I am looking into something to remove the moisture from my basement. I have electric everything, so no worries about back pressure or combustion. The house is brick, built in the late 60's. Currently emptying my 65 pint dehumidifier twice, sometimes three times a day. What options do I have vs. what you were able to build?

HandyHoosier
Re: wave ventilation
zumma wrote:

I have a stale smell in my basement closet,used a dehumidifier and it worked.heard about a new product from wave home solutions which ventilates in stead of dehumidifies. I had a sales person in my house and he said his product will remove the stale smell and will cost $1700. and will take 15 to 25 days to notice a difference,he also said I have other toxins in my house in which he never used an air quality meter to check. Does anyone know if it really works or has any other information . I don't see any results any where on the computer just the company's own so called results.

I have had a wave WV-SCBT unit installed for the past year. I purchased direct from manufacturer on Long Island. I hired local company to do the install. I am very happy with the results from using this device. It has removed the "stale" smell and dampness in my basement. If installed correctly, it will draw air from upper levels of the house into lower level and out of the premises. It does require the cutting of a 6" through the wall to vent the air. The company claims that the unit will eliminate radon gas. This is a claim that I have not verified. Overall, I give this product an A+ for removing stale odor an dampness in my basement.

RyanWelsch
Re: wave ventilation

I have a Physics and Engineering Degree and much experience with basements on Long Island. The first step to a well maintained basement, is making sure that the landscaping around the house is properly sloped so that rain water and snow melt go away from the house. The second step is to maintain the air in the basement. Keep in mind that warmer air holds more moisture than cooler air. Therefore when warmer air is brought into a space where there are cold surfaces (concrete walls, water pipes, etc…) condensation will form on those surfaces. This moisture is what stimulates the growth of mold and mildew. This mold and mildew creates odors. If you depressurize the basement (by exhausting air to the outside), the air will come in from one of 2 places or both. Outside and/or the upper floors of the house. Ultimately the air comes from outside and on most days when the basement needs dehumidifying the outside air has too much moisture. In a home that does not have Air Conditioning, the air coming through the upper floors will have more moisture from showers, cooking, etc… In a home with Air Conditioning, the air will be dryer, but the humidity is not controllable and the Air Conditioner needs to work harder with the constant introduction of warmer, moist air from outside. Exhausting air is only hiding the smell of the mold and mildew and feeding them more moisture. Here on Long Island we do not have radon gas and our best option is to seal up the basement from the outside air and install a dehumidifier with a gravity drain. I have been using a 30 pint dehumidifier in my basement for years and it works great. My basement is 1870 sq. ft. with half of it finished. It is best to keep the basement humidity below 55%. I used foam insulation to seal off above the foundation. When I had Oil burners for heat and hat water, I installed PVC pipe to bring outside air directly to the burned for combustion. I also installed a Heat Recovery Ventilator for the whole house. I only use the HRV when the outside air is dryer than the basement air.

Wally III
Re: wave ventilation

To Ryan Welsch; Great explanation of the way things work in basements.

I'm not familiar with the Wave unit but if it can sense and compare the humidity levels of the outside and inside air then it could shut the fan off when necessary and eliminate dragging the outside moisture into the basement. I have no idea how sophisticated it is.

Also, for a passive, fresh air vent for use in a furnace room or as make-up air for any exhaust system, I have used a Panasonic FV-GKF32S1 Passive Inlet Vent... FYI.

JWW
Re: wave ventilation
rgr223cal wrote:

I just finished building the home made unit...!!! Let you know in a few days how she does...!!! Wish me luck...!!!

Mike...

September 2014
I built and installed this same system in my basement and humidity went from 65% to 75% over night. Apparently I was pulling more air in from outside than from upstairs. Needless to say, I tore this down and bought another dehumidifier. I bought the cheapest 70 pint dh Walmart sells and bought the 5 year warranty. This is my 5th dh in 14 years.

mrgem
Re: wave ventilation
canuk wrote:

When you have a negative pressure there is a possibility of creating back flow for the combustion exhaust ..... allowing for carbon-monoxide buildup or the water heaters , boilers or furnaces not operating properly.

Realize that this thread is many years old -- but the topic is still very much contemporary and important.

I'm looking for an alternative to spending a couple of thousand bucks on a "Wave" or similar ventilator and I believe that a homemade system -- using PVC pipe and a radon fan is certainly an alternative.

We have a weekend home that has a "stand up" height crawlspace. Because the home is at high altitude(10,000 ft Above Sea Level) in an area that sometimes gets down to -20 F, it is important that the crawlspace be heated to protect the plumbing that is exposed there during the winter. The heat for the house comes via a gas-fired boiler with baseboard heat in all the living areas. There are several sections of finned tube hanging from the underside of the joists in the crawl space to keep the temp down there a minimum of 40 F.

The water table below the house is only 8 feet down below grade -- so the crawl space tends to be a pretty damp place year 'round. In fact, the dirt floor is perennially damp in some spots. Even so, there is never really standing water -- just damp soil. As a consequence, it tends to be a little musty smelling. Humidity in the living area above is about normal for that area -- averaging around 45%. Not sure what the humidity level is down in the crawlspace, but I suspect it to be around 70% on average.

My question/concern is this: Will the creation of negative pressure in the crawl space cause my heating bill to go up substantially? A friend who is a home inspector tells be that because I'll be creating negative pressure in the crawl space, it will pull warmer air into the crawl space from the living area above -- requiring the heating system to work harder to keep the living space above 50 degrees during cold weather while we are not there.

The mechanical room for hot water and heat are in the garage - so I do not expect there to be a problem with interfering with air for the appliances providing heat and hot water. That said - there are a gas fireplace and a gas range in the living space.

Would there be a problem running a radon fan 24/7 in the crawl space?

Thanks!

Pages

Sponsored Stories

TV Listings

Find TV listings for This Old House and Ask This Old House in your area.