I would go back to the builder about this. I suspect the "ladybug" smell and the warping may be related.
Some house wraps don't work if they are installed improperly.
Your bulging is it horizontal or vertical? I would suspect that maybe the top plate and bottom plate have a contraction problem that the studs do not like inferior wood.
This sounds like a moisture issue to me, if the wood is absorbing water which it should not if exterior sheathing, it could swell when there is moisture present and bow and buckle because it has no place to expand, what color was the osb they installed? was it blue edges and yellow color to exterior side? Hope they did not use the orange osb which is interior only and will degrade fast if used on exterior, I would definatly call the builder on this, if he won't help you, see if you can get your lawyer to help you recover your repair costs,maybe insurance will cover repair costs also, but I would try that as a last resort if possible. No easy way to fix this except pull the affected side and use some better quality exterior sheathing, The better materials would be cdx exterior sheating or, I have seen a lot of plytanium tounge and groove sheathing on better quality jobs, and lastly I just wired a house that was covered in durarock cement board with stone face, then 3" foam and stucco finish coat on other walls. Good Luck!
you cant go by the color on hte edge of the osb, different osb manufacturers use different colors to code the different thicknesses of osb. not only that some of the manufacturers change the colors on the osb from time to time also.. weyerhauser it bad for just this.. 5 years ago 7/16" was green one month, then turquoise another.. two months after that it was blue.
we have 3 different chains of bigbox stores here and 2 lumber yards........ the osb home depot sells is all the same color no matter what the thickness, kent building supplies has grey band for walls, and orange for super roof, rona's wall osb is blue.. pierceys sells weyhauser which is currently green
And I thought I had it bad with electrical codes, every town inspecter has a different interpretation of the codes! I thought by now the lumber industry had a standard for everything, I guess carpenters/builders is not much different from what I have to deal with in every town. Thanks jkirk for the info, we use a lot of georgia pacific product in boston, weyerhauser is common in a few better/ select lumber yards ,I guess if they can keep the interior/exterior lumber seperate we will be much better off!
This sounds like a moisture issue to me....
This sounds like a moisture issue to me....
Based on the wet block you mentioned I'd agree here. What you need to do is to get a reputable bonded home inspector over to determine what the problems are and what is required to adequately fix them. This will cost you, but it will also give you leverage if you have legal options against the builder. At worst you'll know what you'll need to do for a fix. And regardless of anything else, that fix is going to entail removal and replacement of all the bad OSB. OSB rarely buckles between the studs like you mentioned without excess moisture affecting it, even if it was installed unspaced and poorly nailed. It is stronger than the studs it is applied on laterally- they will usually move if the panels expand and contract instead. Corners, tees, sills, plates and the like may not move as easily but the wall studs will. Bowing between the fasteners and loosening of the joints is a different issue than you're speaking of here- and that is indeed an installation issue.
Personally I don't like OSB because of it's moisture resistance and frangibility issues. Plywood must also be used properly but at least it is less sensitive to moisture issues and will often be reusable after it dries out(so long as it isn't delaminating) while OSB can not recover once it is moisture damaged to any degree at all.
Call me old fashioned but newer and/or cheaper isn't always better, and one must define "better" based on the specific application being spoken of and not on generalities. The older methods may not be best in the end but they do offer a better known set of conditions you're working with. Newer materials can't give you that and IMHO most are often inferior to what they were meant to replace. Better the devil you know how to handle than the one you don't!
Were this my home I'd have it all off and replaced with 5-ply real plywood, fully painted before installation with all cuts painted before covering. That would be nailed every 4" everywhere with galvanized ring-shank 8D full-round-head nails. This could be done in stages if you have to cover the cost yourself- which I hope you don't. Overkill? Yes, but I'm worth the extra effort- at least I think I am :)
I've never known anything to be done too well, but I make money on that which wasn't done well enough.
Howdy, do you have a humidifier on your furnace? Turn it off. Have you checked the amount of humidity in the house in the winter is it below 40%? Do you run the fans when you: shower- leaving it on for 15 minutes after your done, wash clothes, do cooking? How tight is the house? How were the walls insulated? How is the finish applies to interior an exterior - ask builder how permeable the finishes are.
Consider checking the attic for signs of condensation damage.
Is the attic properly vented? More venting at the soffits then at the roof peak?
Lady bug smell? Sounds like fungus growth! Consider having some of the walls and ceiling s opened in that room to observe what is affecting it.