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Walls for all interior basement room (wine storage)

I have just started to frame out the walls for a storage / sitting room (10x14) in the basement of our 1848 house in New England. Like most things I do I jumped in first then started asking questions.
The basement is fairly dry - it does have a sump pump that's kicked on twice in the 12 years I've lived here. It is large fieldstone walls and during high flood warnings (house is 150 ft from a river) there has been some slight weeping through concrete floor.
The room will have all interior walls, although I may insulate on construction for climate control of wine storage down the line. The basement by itself is fairly effective as it stays cool in summer and the heating pipes (gas powered forced hot water) moderates during the winter. I've already framed two of the walls with 25g metal studs and tracks. I anticipate that this will be a gradual improvement project that may include plaster and rock/brick veneer or reclaimed wood walls, some type of flooring treatment, and possibly a climate control unit for temp and humidity.

My questions:
- was metal studs the right choice or should I have gone w PT wood?
- my biggest question is choice of wall material; green board, blue board, or hardibacker, or some other material I'm not familiar with. My concern is 2 fold 1) if and when moisture is on floor I want to minimize damage to walls and prevent wicking, and 2) will walls be strong enough to work with to hang small items or brace floor standing wine racks
- I used powder actuated nails into cement flooring and framed walls parallel to joists (large 4x6ish beams) right along the joist. The walls perpendicular to beams I guess I'll just attach to bottom of beams across and fill in gaps between with plywood and 2x4s?
- I will have a entrance door that is solid wood and will use PT wood for framing that for added strength.

Thanks for any advice or words of wisdom.


Re: Walls for all interior basement room (wine storage)

steel stud or pt will be fine, the advantage of using wood is if you need to hang anything heavy off the wall, wood has WAY more holding power than a steel stud. you can of course sheat the steel stud wall with 3/4 plywood first then hang drywall off that to get your fire rating

for board, as long as the room is kept dry you should be fine.. where its going to be used for wine storage you dont really want it warm. it should be cool so the wine wont go bad

Re: Walls for all interior basement room (wine storage)

jkirk, thanks for your reply.

I guess my real question is what should be my choice of wall board as far as resistance to moisture and strength of wall with the 25g metal studs. I will use a combination of reclaimed wood and brick/stone veneer for wall covering.

my current thought is to use Fiberock and increase from 16" OC to 8" OC for the studs. Any other suggestions that will give me piece of mind as far as withstanding a wet floor and strength to carry the stone veneer or shiplap wood?


Re: Walls for all interior basement room (wine storage)

Also, any need for a vapor barrier (all interior walls in an unfinished basement) if I intend at some point to install a unit to control the temp and humidity in the storage room?
Thanks again

Re: Walls for all interior basement room (wine storage)

Research DensArmor PlusĀ® gypsum interior panels


Re: Walls for all interior basement room (wine storage)

Also check SheetRock water resistance gypsum.

Re: Walls for all interior basement room (wine storage)

densarmour is a bit much for this application i think.. we use it all the time for in custom showers and for commercial jobs that will get a dryvit finish over top. its a fairly pricey prodcut. green board should suffice

Re: Walls for all interior basement room (wine storage)

I can't help you out with which studs to use, or the type of wall or flooring, but when it comes to stopping and preven seepage and moisture, I would suggest going with a sodium silicate or lithium silicate based sealer, like the Armor S2000 or Armor L3000 sealer. They are approved vapor barriers and chemically react below the surface. Because the surface will be left untouched, you can polish, paint, or apply flooring over it once fully matured.

One thing you have to keep in mind, espeically because you live in New England, is just because you don't have water or moisture problems now, it doesn't mean you won't have them down the road. As concrete, fieldstone, cement, cinderblock, etc. become exposed to water, over time the size of the pores will increase. The larger the pores, the higher chance you have of water or moisture penetration. The soil surrounding your foundation will absorb water but where that water goes is dependent on the condition of your foundation and whether or not a drainage system has been installed to redirect the water away from the house.

If you can, waterproof now before water becomes a problem once your walls are up.

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