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Slant Fin SE 105EDP GAS WATER BOILER vs WeilMclain CGI-4

Can someone help me with choosing a hot water boiler. I have the old fashioned radiators. I now have a WeilMcLain **** Oil Boiler and am converting to GAS. I have not had any trouble with my WeilMcLain yet the Reviews ****** with WeilMclain are not very encouraging. I now have 100,000 btu's. Since this is a 2 family house and I reside in the south in the winter, I want something that is not going to be troublesome and hopefully maintenance free so my tenant doesn't have to worry about it breaking down. I was looking into the SlantFin SE105EDP and the WeilMclain CGI-4. Please HELP. I know absolutely nothing about Boilers!!! The high efficiency boilers are too expensive and was also told their lifespan is 1/2 the lifespan of the standard boilers...Thanks...iannilin

Re: Slant Fin SE 105EDP GAS WATER BOILER vs WeilMclain CGI-4

I have installed products from both manufacturers and never had any problem. The one thing that is very important to me is that if you have cast iron radiators then you must install cast iron boilers as condensation will be a problem and cast iron boilers resist this problem the best. Both of these are cast iron. I would look for the one that is easiest to clean the insides and maintain. These exact models i do not know personally,

Re: Slant Fin SE 105EDP GAS WATER BOILER vs WeilMclain CGI-4


The two boilers you mention in your post, the Weil/McLain and Slant/Fin are both in the 100,000 btu/hr range---this is the WRONG way to go about shopping for a new boiler, chances are both boilers are too big for the house or apt. you're trying to heat, and chances are the Weil-Mclain you have in there now is too large & is burning too much fuel (oil?), & thus you're wasting a lot of heating money that is going up the flue every time the heat comes on.

The new boiler (gas-fired) has to be SIZED correctly according to a number of factors, such as the square footage of the space to be heated, the amount of insulation in the walls, how tight are the windows, your location, etc., this is known as doing a HEAT LOSS CALCULATION (done by the prospective boiler installer) to find out how quickly or slowly the building is losing the heat generated by the new boiler---until a HLC is done, for all you know you can get by with a boiler that has an input/output of 60k to 70k btu/hr, & thus save yourself lots of money on fuel bills---the new units has to be SIZED properly; check the condition of your windows & install double-pane storms where needed; if your exterior walls lack insulation (Yellow Pages: Infrared Testing) consider having cellulose insulation blown in--it will pay for itself in a very short time.; make sure you get at least 3 cost estimate quotes in writing from 3 local installers for the new boiler, all should do a heat loss calc & state the size boiler they intend to install.

Gas-fired units tend to be more trouble-free than oil-fired units---gas is a cleaner fuel & thus won't clog up the innards with soot; periodic cleaning bills are also greatly reduced, often down to zero.

There are numerous different brands that can be mentioned, such as Crown, Buderus, Burnham, Dunkirk, New Yorker, Peerless, Triangle Tube, Utica, Hydrotherm, NTI Odyssey, and yes, Slant/Fin & certain models of Weil-McLain----all of these mfgrs have been around for years & usually make quality products.

I also strongly recommend that you include in your boiler choice a matching indirect hot water heater to economically provide the domestic hot water (for bathing, dishwashing, etc), by such mfgrs as Triangle Tube, HTP Superstor, Lochinvar Squire, TFI Everhot, to name a few----do NOT order a boiler that also contains a "domestic coil", which produces only a gallon or less of domestic HW for the baths, etc., & is completely inadequate for domestic HW purposes.

The "energy star" list of boilers is somewhat dated, but it DOES provide certain important things to look for, such as AFUE rating of each boiler & how EFFICIENT the particular boiler is in burning fuel; as you noted in your post, the AFUE high efficiency boilers above 85% efficiency are often problematic because they have more complex controls & rely on such gizmos as "outdoor reset", so the AFUE ratings of around 85% are probably the boilers you should be looking at; AFUEs of 90% or higher usually indicate a boiler with elaborate "condensing" technology that can also be problematic.

Consult your local Yellow Pages under 'Heating Contractors" for a list of local boiler installers & ask around to relatives, friends, working associates as to any good heating contractors that may be in your area; if you know any real estate agents in your area, especially those who manage rental property, ask them for a referral; this goes for your local bank, as well, since they often upgrade boilers in the properties they own.

There are several other sites below that specialize in heating issues, & especially in selecting a new boiler; at the Heating Help site, click onto "The Wall" to access info on new boilers.


Another thing you should realize, is that you will often be limited in the brand of boiler installed by the often very limited choices that your local heating contractor has available to install, because you will have to eventually hire a heating installer in your immediate locality to do the installation; if you live in or near to a very large city, you will have many more choices, than if you are located in a rural area.

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