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Re: Sillcock absent Shut-off Valve
Top Cat wrote:

Bought the house 15 months ago. Built in '69, copper plumbing, but sillcocks are newer. Screwcaps on top of sillcocks similar to 12 ounce plastic soda bottle screw cap.
Shut off valve in basement was constructed over and very-very difficult to get to. Rub is, from sillcock, 5 feet of copper pipe is outside the foundation. Runs under what was an open/ no foundation screen porch. Now enclosed office with insulation and heat. Floor joists are 2x8's with new insulation and plywood to hold insulation in place and keep wind out. Pipe runs tight to floor decking and has foam tubing. Office floor is plywood with carpet.

Let me know your thoughts &/or ideas.


Since you describe a sillcock with an anti-siphon, you most likely have a "frost-proof" sillcock. With this style, the actual valve (where the washer meets the seat) is anywhere from 6 to 18 inches inside the wall/floor. There's a long rod (stem) that runs from the handle inside the faucet body to the washer. The principle is that the valve is in the heated envelope of the house and protected from freezing.

You also describe that the piping is up against the subfloor and that there is a significant amount of insulation below it and there is heated area above. I think it's highly unlikely that the piping and sillcock will freeze, providing you remove the hose in freezing weather to allow the sillcock to drain. Covering the sillcock should only be necessary during prolonged periods of freezing weather below 20 degrees Fahrenheit.


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