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MLB Construction
Re: Shower wall build up

i assume you're installing a fiberglass unit. if that's the case you should shim out the studs and add a piece of green board. the thickness of the shim will be what's left over after you subtract the 1/2" for the green board and the thickness of the fiberglass unit.

if you're tiling, the shim will be what's left over after you subtract the 1/2" for the hardibacker, 1/8" for the mortar and the thickness of the tile.

dj1
Re: Shower wall build up

More info is needed:

- shower enclosure or tile?
- how did you install the faucet body? did you attach it to a 2x4 blocking that extends from one stud to the next?
- how thick is your CBU?
- if you use tile: how thick is it?

In a common tile installation you will have: 1/2" green board + vapor barrier + 1/4" to 1/2" CBU + 1/8" thin set + 1/4" tile. Usually not really 1-5/8" - you will need to move the body and the 2x4 blocking back a little.

tanner3155
Re: Shower wall build up

I am tiling. I measured the distance from the stud to the inside face of the shower clips, it's 1/4". So I guess I have to cut a long 1/4" strip for each stud. Do they happen to sell 1/4" strips of wood?

So after I've shimmed that, it would leave.... 1 5/8"- 1/4" = 1 3/8" to be flush with the shower handle guard.
How much tolerance is there on how far out to go for this shower handle guard? To be exactly flush with it what would the stack up look like?

Thanks,

Mike

tanner3155
Re: Shower wall build up
dj1 wrote:

More info is needed:

- shower enclosure or tile?
- how did you install the faucet body? did you attach it to a 2x4 blocking that extends from one stud to the next?
- how thick is your CBU?
- if you use tile: how thick is it?

In a common tile installation you will have: 1/2" green board + vapor barrier + 1/4" to 1/2" CBU + 1/8" thin set + 1/4" tile. Usually not really 1-5/8" - you will need to move the body and the 2x4 blocking back a little.

Tile
faucet body not on 2x4 blocking. it's just attached to the pipes running up/down and side to side. the shower head pipe is attached to a metal stap that is screwed in to studs on either end.
Haven't bought CBU or anything yet because waiting to figure what thickness and what materials to buy for the build
Tile is 1/4"

Thanks,

dj1
Re: Shower wall build up

Attaching the body to a 2x4 blocking is much better, it gives the body a solid backing and support. It also makes it easier to move the body, as necessary, to the correct position.

If you need 1/4" wood strips, go to Home Depot/Lowes paint dept and get some stir sticks (the large ones). I've used them before, and they are free. Beats cutting and making dust.

Another idea is to buy some cardboard shims, sold in the drywall area. They are 1/8" thick.

tanner3155
Re: Shower wall build up

Good idea!! Thanks.

The CBU is supposed to go down and maybe be siliconed to the lip of the shower base right? But I have to build the wall out 1 3/8" to be flush with the shower handle guard. How to do that? Would I have to have a plumber move the faucet back? Or would it be better to build the wall out? Could I use two 1/2" Hardi-backers, 1/8" thinset the tile?
Is it legal to screw a couple CBU's together to acquire the needed thickness?

Mike

dj1
Re: Shower wall build up

Mike, you are missing the point.

All you need to do is to adjust the position of the body, and you don't need a plumber to do that.
Loosen the clamps that hold the hot/cold to the studs, move the body as needed, then re-clamp them.

No double drywall, no double CBU.

tanner3155
Re: Shower wall build up

Sorry, new to this. I think my setup is slightly different than you are describing. Will try and upload a photo, but last time I couldn't get it to work. Anyhow, my setup has a copper pipe they put through the valve to hold it in place. There are no "clamps" that I can move. This is why I thought I would need a plumber.

Attachment: 
dj1
Re: Shower wall build up

I saw the photo and I didn't like what I saw. Butcher job.

There is evidence of leaks on most connections and on the body. The piece of copper going across is the "backing", but it's pretty much stationary.

You have the wall open, it's a great opportunity to re-do the entire thing. This time, get a plumber to do it nicely, and you won't need double CBU or drywall. And if the body is old, replace it. I would.

tanner3155
Re: Shower wall build up

I was afraid of that. Thanks.

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