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I am planning to replace the drywall jambs on my windows with wood jambs.
Should I actually cut the drywall out or just build the wood jambs over the drywall, nailing the boards to the original 2 x 4 framing. The windows are vinyl and metal.
it would all depend on the reveal that is left if you hang the wood over the drywall. if it will look odd then remove the drywall but if it will look fine then it really won't make any difference. so it all depends on the look you are going for.
If the window box edge is exposed and even with the drywall you should just need to install the trim on top. If the window box edge is visible but inset you would need to install a filler strip to bring it out even with the drywall and then install the trim. If the drywall covers the edge of the window box you will need to remove about 3/4" of drywall, add a filler strip to build the box out even with the drywall and install the trim.
Just a quick note. I recently replaced the dry wall jams with casing on a whole house. I would at the very least remove all the corner beads from the dry wall. It will help alleviate the taper that is built up where the mud tapers out to the wall. it may also be necessary to float out the wall to get the casing to lay flat(due to the mud buildup). Good Luck.
Thanks for the reply. The drywall that was installed in the jambs leaves about 1" of the window frame around the window. Sounds like I will need to go ahead and remove the drywall on the jambs, and the corner bead. What method is best for removing the drywall with the least mess. I was planning on just using a utility knife to cut just past where the corner bead is laying on the wall and then cutting and removing sections of the drywall in the jamb. I am planning on installing wood jambs on all the windows in the house.
Note: I am going to case the windows with a simple arts & crafts style casing leaving an 1/8th of an inch reveal away from the jamb box.
You will need to cut about 1" to 1½" to clear the corner bead. I would use a drywall saw and a shop vac held near to minimize the mess. The time and labor saved over using a utility knife will more than cover the cleanup time. You can get the saw at most home improvement stores.
Will I need to fill back in the 1" to 1½" of drywall you suggested that I remove from the front face of the wall to remove the corner bead or just allow the casing to cover up that gap.
Should I just cut the jamb drywall first and try to pull out the corner bead (as the last step) without destroying the wall board on the front (wall of room). That would give the casing a solid backing all the way to the corner of the jamb.
you can take a hammer and lightly hit the corner bead and the mud will pop right off of it. then you can see if the bead is just clinched on there or if it was put on with screws. then it should be easy to stick a flat bar behind the drywall that is casing out the window and pop it off and remove any fastners that was holding it. when putting in your wood put in the casing that goes into the window first and make it match up with the drywall that is sticking out the furthest, then put on your piece on the outside.
If you don't want to tear up the drywall, make a jamb extension that extends the lamb 1/8" beyond the drywall. Then lay a straight edge on the jamb extension and measure the gap between the straight edge and the drywall out where the edge of the trim will be. Make a filler strip that thickness and glue to the outer edge of the trim. That will bridge the tapered drywall.