Home>Discussions>BATHROOMS>Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate
57 posts / 0 new
Last post
JosephBrian
Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

I purchased a house which has 8" ceramic tile on the basement slab.
I need to remove a 4" wide parallel section in order to place a bottom plate for a 2x4 studded wall.
I was wondering what I'll need to remove this small area of tile?

I was thinking on using a dry diamond rotary saw set about 5/16" - 3/8" deep against a straightedge to outline the removal area then using a chisel and a small sledge to remove the tile and thinset from the concrete. I have no clue how to achieve a flat surface on the concrete to receive the bottom plate.

I may be removing all the tile on either side of the wall in the future in order to install radiant heat tubing. But that's a distant, "budget allowing" project.

Any accurate, inexpensive, reduced dust method would be appreciated for the entire procedure.

Thank You,

Joe

P.S. Sorry about using the bath area I didn't initially realize I was in this area. I arrived here via a web search and just posted in the same area as the thread I'd found. Again Sorry!

A. Spruce
Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

Do you have a window or door to the outside? If so, you can create a tent with painters plastic, then use a fan at the doorway of the tent to pressurize the area and blow the dust out the window. Be sure to wear a suitable dust mask because it's going to get thick in there.

Short of that, you may want to look into renting a wet saw to keep the dust down.

havanagranite
Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

when you are looking at sawblades choose one that is totally smooth, the ones that have offsets on them will saw much faster but will also chip more, just to add to spruce's comment on the dust it can also be reduced by having a helper with a spray bottle set on stream continually spraying at the front of the saw where the blade meets the tile. this will keeep dust down and keep the blade from heating up thus also reducing vibrations another cause of chips.

JosephBrian
Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate
A. Spruce wrote:

Do you have a window or door to the outside? If so, you can create a tent with painters plastic, then use a fan at the doorway of the tent to pressurize the area and blow the dust out the window. Be sure to wear a suitable dust mask because it's going to get thick in there.

I was planning on using a clear plexiglass box I made that connects to my shop vac.

A. Spruce wrote:

Short of that, you may want to look into renting a wet saw to keep the dust down.

Don't like the idea of running an internal combustion engine indoors.

But thanks for the tips!

Joe

JosephBrian
Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate
havanagranite wrote:

when you are looking at sawblades choose one that is totally smooth, the ones that have offsets on them will saw much faster but will also chip more,

If you're referring to saw tooth "set" found on wood saws where every other tooth is set left then right of centerline. I've never seen a diamond masonry blade with it. They do have chip removing voids between segments but they're not "offset."

havanagranite wrote:

just to add to spruce's comment on the dust it can also be reduced by having a helper with a spray bottle set on stream continually spraying at the front of the saw where the blade meets the tile. this will keeep dust down and keep the blade from heating up thus also reducing vibrations another cause of chips.

Again I'd only feel safe using water with either a pneumatic or an internal combustion engine driven rotary tool. There's something about water, grounded concrete and electricity that just doesn't mix.

But I thank you for your time and effort!

Joe

unregistered
Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

using a hand held manual grout saw cut around entire tiles. carefully remove whole tiles. clean original tiles. excavate original mastic or thinset from the area. build wall. return to finish tile area. use wet saw to cut cleaned original tiles to fit area. apply bonding agent, spread thinset or mastic with notched trowel, back butter newly cut old tiles, install. allow to cure. apply sanded grout to match.

JosephBrian
Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate
unregistered wrote:

carefully remove whole tiles.

Now that's got to be a trick!

Thinset was originally used.

How do you break it's bond to the ceramic tile without breaking the tile?

Tools???

A. Spruce
Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate
JosephBrian wrote:

Again I'd only feel safe using water with either a pneumatic or an internal combustion engine driven rotary tool. There's something about water, grounded concrete and electricity that just doesn't mix.

Aw, come on Joe. Live on the wild side. ;):p:D

Your concerns for running electric saws in a wet environment are definitely valid. No need to get your hair curled now, is there. ;) The wet saws that tile setters use are electric, by their design, the saw is not in contact with the water, nor you with the saw. It is possible that there's a commercial electric saw designed for floors (hence checking the rental yard ) that is much like a concrete cutter.

If it were me, I'd build the ventilated tent, and have at it. Just be sure to wear a really good dust mask and eye protection. It gets incredibly dusty, incredibly quick. You mentioned a plexiglass box, unless it has some sort of ventilation (unclear from your post), by the time you get the saw through the tile you'll have to leave because you can't see or breath.

Good luck with your project and let us know how it goes. :)

havanagranite
Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate
JosephBrian wrote:

If you're referring to saw tooth "set" found on wood saws where every other tooth is set left then right of centerline. I've never seen a diamond masonry blade with it. They do have chip removing voids between segments but they're not "offset."

Again I'd only feel safe using water with either a pneumatic or an internal combustion engine driven rotary tool. There's something about water, grounded concrete and electricity that just doesn't mix.

But I thank you for your time and effort!

Joe

https://ecom.granquartz.com/VIA9/viaImagePageIndex.jsp?row=0&pgName=viaListProducts.jsp&searchText=0002&modifier=0002&reqTitle=TITLE_VIAUSERDOCLIST&newWindow=Y

this is a picture of one of the blades I was talking about.

https://ecom.granquartz.com/VIA9/viaImagePageIndex.jsp?row=10&pgName=viaListProducts.jsp&searchText=0308&modifier=0308&reqTitle=TITLE_VIAUSERDOCLIST&newWindow=Y

and here is a picture of an electric milwaukee worm gear saw with external water feed. I understand a person not feeling comfortable but remember when we use tools this way the water is being directed at the blade not the electrical parts of the saw or angle grinder. and you also aren't flooding it with water but using enough to keep the dust down and keep the blade cool. with out tools such as these work becomes much slower, all my saws are electric and my angle grinders are probally fairly evenly split.

ok those links aren't working right but granquartz.com go to consumables and then go to turbo blades and click on one for a close up

JosephBrian
Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate
A. Spruce wrote:

No need to get your hair curled now, is there.

Exactly!:confused: :D

A. Spruce wrote:

The wet saws that tile setters use are electric, by their design, the saw is not in contact with the water, nor you with the saw.

Yes I'm familiar with the design, they're much like the CNC Lathe I used to operate back in the early 80's The "coolant" is recycled via a trough with a pump. I think most of the coolant catchers (on the tile cutters) are made of plastic(an insulator), the trick here is control of the coolants location. Also I'd bet my bottom dollar they've got a dedicated ground prong as well. Unlike most "Double Insulated" 2 prong hand held power-tools these days.

I could just see my knees in the puddle as I push ever forward and in my fevered fight to follow the straight line water getting on my hands then running down the plastic "Double Insulated" grip an into the housing thus creating a circuit where I'm the light bulb. :confused: :D

A. Spruce wrote:

You mentioned a plexiglass box, unless it has some sort of ventilation (unclear from your post), by the time you get the saw through the tile you'll have to leave because you can't see or breath.

Here's my invention: I had my 2 year old son draw it for me. ;)

A. Spruce wrote:

Good luck with your project and let us know how it goes.

No Problem!

Joe

JosephBrian
Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate
havanagranite wrote:

ok those links aren't working right but granquartz.com go to consumables and then go to turbo blades and click on one for a close up

That's a weird site, when I click on the item number or picture it kicks me back out to the main home page (using Firefox).

But I saw the saw ;) (tiny pic) and read the nomenclature. Hey, I believe you, but with regard to the saw, some company also used to sell both a VCR tape head cleaner and a CD player lens cleaner.

In case you're not in the know, they're both useless garbage and can actually harm your equipment. Not to be mean (and I was younger) but us techs used to have a really hard time keeping a straight face when a customer said: "I don't understand it I used the cleaning tape/cd all the time." :D

And the moral of the story is: They'll sell you ANYTHING!!!

Anything can happen and when you mix both electricity and a fluid conductor things can get out of hand real quick. Then there's complacency with everyday use.

Pneumatic and ICEngine rotary tools are a smarter choice when using an electrically conductive fluid coolant, those tile wet cutting stations that A.Spruce mentioned as well as the many varieties of milling machines are an exception due to their design.

I'll be buying the diamond blades this weekend so I'll check them out before purchase.

Thanks,

Joe

Pages

Sponsored Stories

TV Listings

Find TV listings for This Old House and Ask This Old House in your area.