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I want to move a cast iron radiator to another part of the room. Is it really hard to do. What will I need to know first.
Could you advise if this is a forced hot water system or a steam system.
Moving a radiator is not that hard, but if it's hot water, you will have to shut down the boiler, drain several gallons out of the system, detach and reconnect the rad at piping at the new location.
Are the piping connections on the rad compression fittings (screw-on) or soldered fittings.
Are you able to solder copper tubing??
You will have to install piping at the new location.
The new location should be against an outside wall, preferably under a window so that the cold air coming off the wall and window will mix with the hot air from the rad to produce natural heating currents.
They are steam heat. Ithink I can disconnect and add the extension without having to touch the boiler
You will have to temporarily shut off the boiler using the on/off switch.
Everything will depend on if you can unscrew the piping connections (that they're not rusted in)---you'll need 2 large pipe wrenches--one to hold the union, and one to grasp & turn the pipe loose---slip a short length of steel pipe over the handle of the pipe wrench to get more leverage if a threaded joint won budge, have a helper hold the stationary wrench.
Check all piping threads from the rad to the branch main to make sure they're not rusted shut.---apply penetrating oil on all joints & let them soak overnight.
This is usually threaded black steel pipe of 1 1/2" to 2" diameter--replacement black pipe is available at plumbing supply houses in various lengths, along with elbows, unions, etc.
Check the home improvemnt books at the library for photos of black steel pipe fittings---Home Depot/Lowe's carry a limited supply of these pipes, ofen for a higher cost than a plumbing supply house.
You'll also need steel hangers to nail or screw into the floor joists to support the pipe over to the new location.
Have a screw-on cap fitting handy to screw onto the main pipe---if you can't finish the job in one day, you can screw on the cap so you can use the boiler overnight & finish the job the next day.
The radiator and the piping MUST BE TILTED ABOUT 1/4" TOWARD THE BOILER---use a torpedo spirit level to make sure you have a continous pitch back to the boiler.
The reason for this is to allow the cooled steam (condensate/water) to flow back toward the boiler so that the rad works properly.
They rent or sell threading tools (die nd diestock) if you have to thread any of the piping, or you can have it done at a local hardware store.