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Sten
Re: Plunge cutting tools
Gizmo wrote:

This blade makes things a little easier for a novice.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utqbG4bgB5M

http://www.amazon.com/Boar-Blades-7X765-Bi-Metal-Reciprocating/dp/B002NMGCPA

Now that's a great little blade, no stopping to finish where the cut was started, very nice. :)

dj1
Re: Plunge cutting tools

I agree with Sten. These blades can make life easier.
In fact I need to get me a set of these blades asap.

Gizmo
Re: Plunge cutting tools
Sten wrote:

Now that's a great little blade, no stopping to finish where the cut was started, very nice. :)

Yep the blades are sweet....great idea.

Now back to you Sophie. :) By any chance did you measure the floor joist centers. Are they spaced 24,16" etc on center.....
Also was there any mechanicals plumbing,elec,heating ducts,vents between any of the joist spaces.

Give us that info then you will be able to get you moving forward with your project.

By the way great layout attachment !

HoustonRemodeler
Re: Plunge cutting tools

From the look of that drawing it seems like the floor system is inadequate to meet the deflection standards for tile. For ceramic and porcelain you'll need a minimum of L360 and for natural stone a deflection of no less than L720. You'll need to check the deflection and make any corrections before cutting out the flooring. You may find ceramic tile isn't in your plans if the structural work is more than you bargained for.

You'll be served well by using the deflecto-meter on the John Bridge Tile Forum to find out if your floor system will support tile.

SophieC
Re: Plunge cutting tools

I'd certainly be interested tohear what A. Spruce has to say since I've provided more info. :)

Gizmo wrote:

This blade makes things a little easier for a novice.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utqbG4bgB5M

Gizmo....that is very cool! I'll have to look into getting some of those. :D

JLMCDANIEL wrote:

Sophie you can probably rent a toe kick saw or reciprocating saw at you local tool rental if you don't want to buy.

Jack, I have a recip. saw and my dad has a toe-kick saw. So I'll have my choice of tools for the job. Just have to decide which one I should use. I've never used the toe-kick saw.

Gizmo wrote:

Now back to you Sophie. :) By any chance did you measure the floor joist centers. Are they spaced 24,16" etc on center.....
Also was there any mechanicals plumbing,elec,heating ducts,vents between any of the joist spaces.

Give us that info then you will be able to get you moving forward with your project.

By the way great layout attachment !

Gizmo.....yes, the floor joists are 24" O.C. There is nothing between the joists at the moment. I have removed all my plumbing supply lines and drain lines in preparation for a whole house replumbing job.

Thanks for the compliment. 18 years of drafting & design work comes in handy sometimes. :D Updated image is below.

HoustonRemodeler wrote:

From the look of that drawing it seems like the floor system is inadequate to meet the deflection standards for tile. For ceramic and porcelain you'll need a minimum of L360 and for natural stone a deflection of no less than L720. You'll need to check the deflection and make any corrections before cutting out the flooring. You may find ceramic tile isn't in your plans if the structural work is more than you bargained for.

You'll be served well by using the deflecto-meter on the John Bridge Tile Forum to find out if your floor system will support tile.

I already have used the deflecto calculator on the John Bridge Tile Forum. See updated image below.

JLMCDANIEL
Re: Plunge cutting tools

Sophie, on problem the I see is the lower wall in the drawing is between the joists which would require blocking underneath before you cut the floor.

You will probably have to double the joists to get proper support and use at least 3/4" plywood sub-floor.

Jack

A. Spruce
Re: Plunge cutting tools
SophieC wrote:

I'd certainly be interested tohear what A. Spruce has to say since I've provided more info. :)

To be honest, tile is not my thing, so I've stayed out of what you should and shouldn't be doing. I would like to comment on something Jack just said though.

JLMCDANIEL wrote:

Sophie, on problem the I see is the lower wall in the drawing is between the joists which would require blocking underneath before you cut the floor.

You will probably have to double the joists to get proper support and use at least 3/4" plywood sub-floor.

Jack

That's my thinking as well, but why cut along this wall at all? With it only inches from the nearest joist like that (joist is on the bathroom side ), there's no need to remove the subfloor from that area. The other wall, I'd highly recommend adding a joist on the bathroom side of the wall, then there's no worry of wall support. Once the subflooring is out, then the rest of the joists can be bolster to prepare for the tile.

Something to keep in mind as well, it is infinitely easier to work from the top when doing structural work like this, so if it were me, I'd cut the central area of the floor out to give easy access to the sub area of the bathroom. From there you can easily sneak under each side to deal with whatever supports you're going to add under the walls before removing the flooring out to the walls.

Gizmo
Re: Plunge cutting tools
SophieC wrote:

I'd certainly be interested tohear what A. Spruce has to say since I've provided more info. :)

Gizmo....that is very cool! I'll have to look into getting some of those. :D

Jack, I have a recip. saw and my dad has a toe-kick saw. So I'll have my choice of tools for the job. Just have to decide which one I should use. I've never used the toe-kick saw.

Gizmo.....yes, the floor joists are 24" O.C. There is nothing between the joists at the moment. I have removed all my plumbing supply lines and drain lines in preparation for a whole house replumbing job.

Thanks for the compliment. 18 years of drafting & design work comes in handy sometimes. :D Updated image is below.

I already have used the deflecto calculator on the John Bridge Tile Forum. See updated image below.

Depending on how long the floor joist are spanned from beam to beam or foundation,I would double up every one of the existing floor joist and add additional dbl joist in between all the exsiting one. This way your joint are roughly 12"centers.

Add dbl joist at the wall also,one should sit directly under the wall and the other should sit inside the bath room side.

HoustonRemodeler
Re: Plunge cutting tools

If you want to match the height of existing flooring or finish height is an issue will determine which course of action you take with the joist spacing - that will determine your thickness of plywood.

I'd cut out the center section, throw more double joists under those side walls and for the added few dollars and ease of access, add more joists on center between the old ones. Its a cheap, fast and easy way to super stiffen that floor.

If you do that, you can use 5/8" plywood with ditra and get the lowest profile under your tile.

SophieC
Re: Plunge cutting tools

Whoa! Information/advice overload!:) I know I asked for it though. Seriously though, all the info, some of it differing is a little overwhelming. I want to do it right, but I am also doing the work myself (I think), so I want the easiest possible route. Before I go any further, I wanted to know if showing you the tile I'm putting in will make any difference at all in the advice you are all giving me about support. I understand that the walls need support. I'm referring to the advice of doubling the joists and adding additional joists between the existing ones.

I think I remember being told that a mosaic type tile on a mesh back sheet is more forgiving than say a 12x12 tile. Here is the tile.....

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