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bfelker
Open joints in inside corner

When you have coped the best inside corner joint you can and have compensated for out of whack walls to the best of your ability, what is the best way of filling the gap? Caulk or putty? How large of a gap is too large?

ordjen
Re: Open joints in inside corner

bfelker,

Definitely not putty. Putty is an oil based product that will get brittle with age and break out. Also not wood fillers, for the same reason. They are brittle and will break out of the gap.

A good acrylic based caulk will have better adhesion and have the ability to expand and contract with seasonal changes in the wood molding.

If the gap is so large that you have to ask the question how big is too big, you should probably re-cope the corner. If carpentry were perfect, fillers wouldn't be neccessary.

A. Spruce
Re: Open joints in inside corner
ordjen wrote:

If carpentry were perfect, fillers wouldn't be neccessary.

I'll have you know, I NEVER use fillers.;):p:D

bfelker, ordjen gives you good advice. Gaps "should" be an 1/8" or less, more than that will set you up for failure no matter what you used to fill/cover the joint.

What I find helpful in situations like yours is to cut test pieces until I get the fit I want, then I move to the actual trim piece and work on that. This way you already know the exact angle you need to achieve a good quality cut. Notice I didn't say "perfect", yes, you want the joint to be as tight as possible its whole length, sometimes that's just not possible for a variety of reasons. That is why caulk was invented.

I also like to be generous with the caulking, not to make a mess of things, but to squish a goodly amount behind the joint to "key" the caulking into the joint so that it will hold better. The face, of course, gets troweled to match the profile of the trim and give you that "perfect" look.

Achieving a good caulk line is more about practice and technique than anything else. Start by trimming the nozzle at 30* - 45* and no larger than about a 1/8" opening. Hold the nozzle tightly into the joint so that as you apply the caulk, it is force into the joint. Here is the tricky part, you have to move the nozzle along the joint as a sufficient speed with sufficient pressure on the trigger to apply just the amount needed and NOT be blowing caulking out around the nozzle. The less you have to clean up after application, the better the end result will be. Also, have a wet rag on hand for clean-up. Wet your finger and make short strokes to remove the excess, the more excess, the shorter the stroke you make, wiping your finger clean each time. Once the excess is removed, you then go back with a freshly wet finger and make a single swipe along the joint for a smooth finish. An alternative would be to use a putty knife to remove the excess, though using a tool is a bit tougher.

Sombreuil_mongrel
Re: Open joints in inside corner

There was no filler in this cherry trim project, except finish nail holes.

It can be done, provided it's an unlimited budget!
Casey

dj1
Re: Open joints in inside corner
Sombreuil_mongrel wrote:

There was no filler in this cherry trim project, except finish nail holes.

It can be done, provided it's an unlimited budget!
Casey

The sky is the limit when it comes to budgets. Nice work, even though I see too much red.

A. Spruce
Re: Open joints in inside corner
dj1 wrote:

Nice work, even though I see too much red.

That was my thinking as well, looks like some sort of sacrifice has taken place in this room! :eek::D

bfelker
Re: Open joints in inside corner

Thanks for the advice. With a little patience and some mild profanity, I got all joints closed pretty tightly. Will caulk soon.

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