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And so that's exactly what we should be telling the OP.
Instead we're talking about painting over what he/she has, or telling him/her that there are products that can be applied over what's already there that can cause the existing paint to bond better to the drywall.
The OP has enough problems, the last thing we need to be doing is to fill him/her with false hope that there's something that can be done now to salvage the situation. They need to be told that it basically has to be done over, hard as that may be to say and hear.
Eudaimonia: If it were me, I would buy a few rolls of 2 inch wide masking tape and stick that to your walls wherever there's an indication that the paint isn't sticking to the walls. Pull off the tape, and hopefully the paint and primer will come off with the tape. Take as much of that paint and primer off as you can, and leave what's sticking reasonably well to the walls. Then, it'll be necessary to prime and paint again.
From Zinsser's own site http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=221.
They sure make a point to highlight the "Penetration" ability anyway!
A few painter's/poster's I've interacted with on other sites we frequent have said the same thing. Some have even used it successfully to stabilize old Calcimine/Kalsomine ceilings!
So that's my story, and.....
Gardz is meant to be absorbed into a porous surface by capillary action and dry to a hard plastic inside that surface, thereby consolidating the surface so that it's not crumbly or chaulky, and so that it's suitable for painting.
The problem is that the paint on the poster's walls isn't porous and won't absorb Gardz by capillary action. Any Gardz you put on the paint will simply sit on the surface of the paint.
I'd encourage the original poster to contact Rustoleum and ask their customer service department to send her a quart of Gardz to try. If it works, then it's well worth investing in the required number of gallons of the stuff. I just can't see it being "wicked" into paint, let alone being "wicked through" the paint so that it ends up behind the paint where it's needed.
If the mudding is failing that badly, I wonder if it froze while they were taping. The freezing of mud makes it undergo a change to where later it seems to absorb moisture out of the air and spall off. This doesn't always present itself immediately, either. What was the weather like when it was taped I wonder?
If you absolutely cannot get the paint redone or retouched soon, I would say to keep your house a stable temperature or humidity so the paint will not crack faster. Wild changes in these, combined with terrible paint coats, will result in cracking paint.
Jeez, I thought I'd already butted in here but it looks like I didn't. Around here, sheetrock finishing and paint is considered "cosmetic" and only carries a one year warranty against failure. The sheetrock tape and corners are considered sructural though. You indicated your house was "about two years" old- the first thing to do is to check your homebuilders warranty as this may still be covered where you are! As with any type of claim against insurance there is a time limit on filing it, so if you're close to but not past two years file the claim right away. If they are not legally liable at least you tried- if they are you've got your fix. Even if not covered, this is shoddy workmanship and the claim you filed is legal proof of the time involved, which any jury will know is far too young for this problem to be happening. At worst you've still got a small claims case and will be able to get some repair money for almost no cost in time or money to you.
Here's the biggie- if your claim is allowed, tell the insurer (not the contractor) that you want someone else to do the work; not the idiots who messed it up the first time. They will balk, but stand adamant and let them know you will take it to court if need be, They will know you'd win so they will allow it, but only if you push hard. The insurer will get their money back from the contractor who will then have a case against the subcontractor, who will have to pay for their sins.
All this could have been avoided had somebody been paying attention when the house was built. Another thing to get if your claim is allowed is a coverage extension of the rework equal in length to the original time beginning when the rework is completed to ensure it doesn't happen again. To get that you may have to use the contractor's choice of crew and materials, so you may have a choice of getting the warranty or choosing your own contractor. In that case I'd still want someone else but YMMV.
Good luck! Unfortunately you're going to need that at this point.