If a lid switch is bad on a Maytag washing machine, would the machine (at all times during the washing of a load) still stop when the lid is opened and continue when the lid is closed ?
A washing machine lid switch is like any other type of switch. If it's defective, the machine won't work, whether the lid is down or up. It just doesn't make a contact.
Is your washer working at all?
When I put in a load to wash, the machine washes normally until just before it reaches the last drain and spin. Then, it is still on, but instead of draining and spinning, it just makes a tick-tick-tick-tick... sound until I press the dial button to turn it off. When I return a couple of hours later, I turn the dial all around in the off position and put it at the place where it initially stopped working normally and turn it on. It finishes washing the load as it drains and spins. The repairman said the malfunction was due to a bad lid switch. He changed the lid switch, but the same problem continues. He now says that the malfunction is due to a bad timer and motor. Back to my original question, if, during normal washing, the Maytag washing machine stops when opened and runs when closed, is the lid switch bad ?
Sounds like your repairman was an idiot.
A bad lid switch is not going to manifest in the manner you describe. The purpose of the lid switch is to turn off the agitator when the lid is opened, to prevent injury. That is the only thing it will do is turn off the machine when the lid is opened. If it faults, the machine either won't run at all, or will continue to run after the lid is opened.
From your description it sounds like you've got a machine with the big round dial that you spin/push/pull to set and run the machine, then most likely it is this which is bad. Basically, it is a stack of plates with contacts, over time, those contacts burn and it stops functioning properly. By spinning the dial around and bringing it back to where it left off, you slightly change the position of the contacts and they'll work again.
On our old machine, the dial went bad and I replaced it. The switch itself cost around $75 and is pretty easy to replace yourself. We got about another year of service out of the machine, so it was worth the investment at the time.
I would recommend googling your machine model and find a troubleshooting guide. Most of these guides will also have instruction on how to test and/or disassemble the machine to access the parts. Once you know what is bad, you can find a new part locally or on-line. Whether to repair the machine or replace it will be dependent upon the age of the machine and the price of the parts. Any machine over 5 years old I would not recommend putting more than $100 into, as most often these machines won't make it 10 years anymore and you don't want to waste money on scrap iron.
Before the repairman checked the Maytag washing machine the first time, I told him the problem we were having. That the machine reaches the spin area toward the end when the machine has to drain and spin, but instead it just stays on making a ticking sound until I press the dial to turn it off. I give it a rest for a few hours and then it finishes the cycle after I turn the dial around and start the machine where it originally malfunctioned.
When the repairman checked the Maytag washing machine for the first time he opened the area of the machine (a top panel) where the timer dial and other buttons are located. He concluded that the lid switch was bad and he showed me that when he opened the machine, the machine stayed on. But, before he came to check the machine, that was not happening. Whenever the machine was running and I or my Mom raised the lid it would stop and when we closed the lid the machine would run again. I had done that as recent as the day before he arrived. I told him this, but he insisted that the lid switch was bad. Is it possible for a repairman to damage or rig the lid switch so that the machine doesn't stop when opened ? (In any event, even with the new lid switch, the same initial problem remains. He now says the timer and motor are bad.)
My first recommendation is for you to never call this repair guy again. Yes, it is possible he bypassed the lid switch, the only reason to do this is to be able to charge you time and materials to install a new one - more money for him, you are none-the-wiser.
The timer (dial ) is the likely culprit, not sure what "motor" he's talking about, unless it is somehow the mechanical parts of the timer. If you were having main motor issues, then the machine would be no running at all, smell like hot/burning electrical, or would have emitted the signature blue smoke of death.
If you don't feel capable of diagnosing the actual problem yourself, through our instruction or Google found troubleshooting guide, then find yourself a new repair company to call. It is usually very simple to remove the control panel and visually check the timer. There will likely be a cover over the back of it that should come off easily. Slowly turn the dial and look at all the contacts as they open and close. Note any burning or discoloration, alignment, etc. If the contacts are discolored/burnt, you've just found your issue and you shine them up a bit with a fine fingernail file. ALWAYS unplug the machine before working on it!
After reading you new posts, it sounds like your timer control is defective. Luckily, it's probably under $100 and is something you could do yourself.
But if you need a technician to do it, and you get the same guy you had...forget it, replace the washer. So far you had to pay for 1 call, then a second call - you'll be paying as much as a new washer (not top of the line LG, of course).
Thanks for your responses dj1 and Spruce. I sent a message earlier, but it seems it didn't register in the system. The home warranty company has given us 2 options. 1) They can replace the timer and motor with a 30-dy guarantee after that we would have to pay another $60 trade call fee for repair or 2) we can accept $328.06. The same technician would install the parts. The washer we have is a Maytag model A511 top loader that we've used for about 5 yrs. Don't know the age of the machine. Your thoughts on these options are welcomed.
By the way, from the beginning, I also mentioned to the repairman a smell of something burnt like maybe rubber. Also, I searched the web for the manual for the washer but the manual and troubleshooting guide are no longer available. I checked maytag.com Your thoughts on the 2 options are welcomed- see preceeding post.
You are very welcome.
I would take the $328 and put it towards a new machine, odds are, this one is on its last legs and while the $60 idiot may be able to nurse it along for a bit longer, it just isn't worth the money.
You are describing exactly what happened to my machine a few years ago, it started dropping out during the cycles ($75 dollar part), then it started to smell funny - burnt rubber/hot electrical. I changed the belts hoping it would help, but knew it was toast. I got maybe another year or so out of the repairs, but ultimately, once you factor in time, materials, trips to the parts house, the money would have been far better spent on replacement. This is why I recommend for you to do the same. :cool:
Thanks again dj1 and A. Spruce. We've decided to accept the cash from the home warranty co. Any advice on buying washers?? We might go with a homedepot admiral atw4475vq 3.1 cu.ft. top load washer. Recall the $60 trade call fee I paid the technician. From the beginning I told him that I didn't think the lid switch was bad because my mom and I knew the lid switch was working. I open the washer to add detergent and later to insert clothing. At the last spin/drain part of the cycle we were able to open the machine several times and see that the spinning/draining would stop. I told him this, but he insisted the lid switch was bad. I figured, he knows something I don't know and left it at that, but when he left and the machine had the same problem, I though maybe I've been had. With respect to this, any words of advice?