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A. Spruce
Re: LVLP versus HVLP spray guns?

I would recommend saving yourself the hassles of all that masking for zero gain. In the time it will take you to mask of the room, you can have it brushed out, probably several coats. Masking materials to cover an entire room would also be expensive.

Using a brush is easy, especially once you've mastered the technique of cutting in.

Additional food for thought. If you hadn't planned on protecting the walls above base and around doors and window trim, this would be a mistake, as the over spray would affect the sheen on the walls once they get painted too.
- If using semi-gloss on trim, which is typical, the sheen will shine through flat paint that is typically used on walls.
- Additional layers of paint on the walls around the trim will seal the wall in these area, while the main body remains porous, again affecting the overall sheen of the paint.

Spraying your doors I can agree with, and I would recommend tenting one room or an area in the garage to spray them in. I have always used an airless sprayer for this, so I can't answer your questions about HVLP or LVLP systems. The one thing that I would caution is that the system you choose can shoot the paint you intend. I believe that these systems are primarily for light bodied finishes like a polyurethane, lacquer, and such. Latex and alkyd paints are heavy bodied and are better applied by a pressure system than a siphon system.

Re: LVLP versus HVLP spray guns?

I agree with Spruce, I like a brush and a roller better, for many reasons. The biggest ones are time and money. Not to mention overspray and breathing.

But to answer your question: the biggest difference here is that LVLP uses a much lower pressure, works well with small compressors. Get some literature on the subject and read all about it.

Why won't you rent one to try before you do the job?

Re: LVLP versus HVLP spray guns?

one more vote for brushing the trim and spraing the doors with an airless sprayer. A pneumatic sprayer will not work with the thick bodied latex paints available today. Thinning oil based thin enough to go through a pneumatic sprayer isn't a good idea unless you are a real glutton for punishment.

Spraying the doors is easier if you place the doors over strip lumber (usually 1 by's) then arrange the doors in an accodrian shape with a strip of lumber screwed in along the tops of the doors to hold them upright and in place. This way you can spray all 4 sides of each door at the same time.

Re: LVLP versus HVLP spray guns?

Spraying is worth it in an unoccupied house where the floor coverings are not yet installed. Otherwise, as the others have stated, it is not worth all the masking and cover-up work.

I personally used a professional quality HVLP for shooting Moore's Satin impervo oil enamel. It did a beautiful job, especially where ornate crown moldings were encountered. I did a lot of work in conjunction with a company which specialized in ornate, high density urethane moldings and trim. It was a symbiotic relationship. We kept admiring each others work and kept referring new customers to one another.

One of the advantages of a true HVLP is that they use a light weight, portable turbine, rather than an air-compressor. They are easy to move around and don't require a dedicated high amperage power outlet. The air supply hose is like a vacumn cleaner hose. It actually gets quite warm from all the air rushing through it.

One thing for sure, no brush will equal the surface quality obtained with spraying. I say this as one who primarily brushed oil enamel, as my work was largely existing, occupied residential homes. Most of the time, spraying was not a good choice. Brushing oil paints is smelly enough, spraying oil will gas out the whole family!

I once had a customer question if spraying were as good as brushing. I replied that I had just heard that Mercedes had recently decided to start brushing their cars! I guess I didn't get any bonus points for being a smart ass! :)

Re: LVLP versus HVLP spray guns?

My vote is for spraying if you want a quality smooth finish.

In my younger foolish days before the internet and since I had no one to ask, I did a latex spray job on a bathroom I had just gutted and installed.

It was an older colonial and my wife and I decided we wanted wainscotting on the walls.

Of course I was planning on painting it from the start and was worried that I wouldn't be able to get a good finish especially in all the grooves.

So I decided to spray it. It was latex, semi-gloss. I think it was some off-white color. But the upshot is that I did spray it and it came out fantastic. It was a bit of a job masking everything though.

The key is that I had to thin it which I did with a little distilled water and just a drop or two of "Dawn" dish washing detergent.

I worked. That's all I can say. I've used "Dawn" to keep my brushes clean also.

BTW, this was done with a conventional siphon gun.

I used a viscosity cup to get the right consistency.

Go and tell me all the things I did wrong but it worked and looked great and I used so little paint that I was impressed.

A. Spruce
Re: LVLP versus HVLP spray guns?
jpsmithny wrote:

Go and tell me all the things I did wrong but it worked and looked great and I used so little paint that I was impressed.

We could, but you obviously don't care, so what's the point. Your post is a fine example of what NOT to do however.

Re: LVLP versus HVLP spray guns?

But if it worked,why is it wrong?

And if I didn't care, i wouldn't have posted.

Tacoma John
Re: LVLP versus HVLP spray guns?

I always spray when possible. I use an airless, which can be rented cheaply. I prefer to spray trim first then the walls since it requires less masking this way. In older homes with a lot of paint on the walls to begin with, there is very little sheen build. This true only if you use a eggshell or higher sheen on the walls.
The tricks of spraying are:

Use a vertical test board to see how much paint you can put on without it running, all paints are differant.

Start and stop off the trim you are painting.

Use the proper tip/needle for the paint you are using.

Never try to paint it in one coat.

If using oil or fast dry paint, read the can for minimum and maximum recoat times.

Since I use an airless, I always use a NEW 411 tip for trim and doors. Since the home owner hvlp's and lplv's usually only come with one general purpose needle, I recommend renting the airless. That and it is quicker. When spraying doors, always prop them up off the ground using short pieces of 2x4s.

Re: LVLP versus HVLP spray guns?

I use a Fuji Mini Mite 4 turbine HVLP for furniture, trim, and large or difficult paint jobs. I can't speak highly enough of the Fuji system. Yes, it's expensive, but with careful preparation you can paint virtually anything. Remember, however, that it still a time consuming job if you do it right. I recently painted a dark wood stained and varnished rocking chair white. I had to sand the rocking chair to near bare wood, then I applied 2 coats of bin primer, sanding after each coat. I finished off with 2 coats of Benjamin Moore satin impervo. I might have been able to get away with one coat of impervo, but I missed a few spots in my initial finish coat. On the rocking chair, a large baby crib and a 7 foot bookcase, I used 3/4 gallon of primer and 1/2 a quart of impervo.

Re: LVLP versus HVLP spray guns?


I also often used the combination of BIN primer and Moore's Satin Impervo. The Bin has fantastic adhesion and coverage of dark colors. It dries so fast that a second coat can be put on in short order. Unlike lacquer primers, BIN will not "fisheye" if it encounters a speck of grease that was missed while cleaning kitchen cabinets. If sprayed with a full flowing coat, little or no sanding is required.

I used this combination on many a kitchen cabinet and also on old dark family room paneling.

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