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Liquid Sandpaper / Deglosser

Has anyone ever used a liquid sandpaper, also often referred to as a deglosser, for prepping trim before painting? I have a very old home that may or may not have lead paint and I want to paint the trim, but do not want to hire a lead abatement company or breathe in the toxic dust particles that could potentially result from sanding, so I would like to use a deglosser/liquid sandpaper before painting, but have never used one and I am curious how well they work. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Re: Liquid Sandpaper / Deglosser

I've used deglosser for paint-over-paint many times over the years and never had a problem with poor adhesion/peeling results...providing the existing coat is well bonded.

I will still recommend that you clean the woodwork first with some TSP (rinse well, of course) and will also recommend that you use the deglosser that Sherwin-Williams sells. It is much "hotter" than the Savogran product so often seen at big-boxes or hardware stores.

What this means is that there will be much less work involved in achieving the desired result. No real rubbing involved at all, unlike using the Savogran product. Just wipe it on with an old cotton cloth, let it evaporate and you're good to go. If you linger or rub, you'll likely find that you will actually be removing the existing paint.

To play it safe...don't degloss too far in front of yourself. IOW, don't degloss more than what you can overcoat in say, the next 30 - 45 minutes.

(If you are in CA or some other locale where VOCs are highly restricted, I'm not so sure these products are even available...or if they are, they may not be the same products we get here in the midwest.)

Re: Liquid Sandpaper / Deglosser

I agree with Goldhiller. Cleaning first is one of the most important preps and the deglosser is not a cleaner.

Blue RidgeParkway
Re: Liquid Sandpaper / Deglosser

i found out the hard way that if the area was painted with bin shellac or it is trim that was shellac finish not to use ammonia to clean it or use deglosser because the paint cracks later horribly. you should test area first with alcohol just in case. the will-bond was like mostly toulene(?)(more than 2/3) and the rest was alcohol and acetone. was pretty nasty stuff need lots of fresh air and don't breath it in to much its a major headache after that exciderine or tylenol won't cure!

Re: Liquid Sandpaper / Deglosser

I am also wondering about Liquid Sandpaper because I need to sand old 70's dark panels with groves before priming and painting them. I have the entire first floor covered with ugly panels, and the idea of sanding by hand scares me. But people say that primer/sealer wouldn't stick without sanding. Does anybody have any advice about painting old panels using the deglosser?:confused:

Re: Liquid Sandpaper / Deglosser


I don't *think* you'll need a deglosser for your project. I would suggest that you wash the walls down well with TSP and then rinse. Wash twice if there's alot of dirt on the paneling. Allow to dry throughly.

Then prime with a quality primer such as 1-2-3 by Zinsser ...or get out the big guns by using some XIM primer. If you use the XIM, make sure you have really good ventilation. A paint store in your area should carry the XIM 400 white...which is what I would likely reach for in this instance... *if* I thought it warranted using a XIM primer. The stuff is not cheap. http://www.ximbonder.com/products.asp?id=35

I think there's a fair chance that you may run into a different problem however. If anyone has used Pledge or another silicone bearing product (like Liquid Gold) on these walls at some point, you *could* encounter silicone contamination. Applying Liquid Gold to "rejuvenate" paneling, etc... was very popular for some years. The stuff (like Pledge and similar) gave the panelinga wet shiny look. And for good reason. A can of silicone lubricant from the hardware store will do the same thing...and for the same reason.

For this reason, I'd suggest you try things out on a relatively small area first (10-20 sq ft.) and see what type of results you get. If the primer or paint wants to "fisheye", you have silicone contamination. (paint will pull/run away from contaminated areas and create little craters or similar while drying) If this occurs, keep a brush handy and try brushing/forcing the material back over those areas before/while it dries. The object isn't to add more, just be there in a very timely fashion and redistribute what's already on the surface.

If there is a sili-problem and that doesn't work, post back.

IME, odds are probably 50-50 that you encounter silicone contamination. Cross your fingers.

PS- Sanding the surface won't likely eliminate silicone contmination either. The stuff usually sinks deep into the wood/material if it finds a crack in the surface to enter.

Re: Liquid Sandpaper / Deglosser

IME, odds are probably 50-50 that you encounter silicone contamination. Cross your fingers.

Fingers ... toes .... eyes ... crossed here.:D

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