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Latex paint

I just painted my kitchen cabinets and noticed the paint rolls up if bumped.I looked at the can and it does not say latex enamel.I asked for latex enamel when I purchased at Lowes.Should I discuss this with Lowes or can I paint over with Latex enamel.I have done a lot of work for nothing it appears.The doors have not been done yet thank goodness.Would Lowes be responsible?

Re: Latex paint

Sounds more like the cabinets where not properly cleaned and preped.

Re: Latex paint

I wholeheartedly agree with former reply. There are websites you can view to show you how to treat/prepare kitchen cabinets before you paint. Some of what you did might be salvaged. While other areas might be best to strip and redo for longevity purposes.
Painting over laminate is not too hard when you take the proper advised steps to prepare the surfaces. All that painting was tough task for you I am sure. It's even tougher when it's in a moisture and grease area such as kitchen cabinets are subject to.
Good Luck!
Here's a good website to view. There are many others, I hope you can find the one that is best suited to your tasks at hand.

Re: Latex paint

I have thought about painting my cabinets as well. But, can not find a paint that sticks to grease.

Just kidding..... (Some here do not take well to that.......)

Actually, I have painted many a cabinet and other hard use items and have never used any type of paint other than sprayed on automobile paint. I would use a brush or roller oil base with a flow conditioner before I would resort to latex.

Re: Latex paint

I assure you the cabinets were prepared correctly,they were washed with TSP,dried and then painted.The problem is the latex paint.There is latex and latex enamel.Obviously the wrong people replied.The third reply was what could be done or just use oil base enamel.I was trying to avoid the extra work with oil base.The paint that I previously used was latex enamel and it served me well and sanded smoothly after I cleaned it with TSP.The original question was can I apply Latex Enamel over the latex or should I remove the first application.Lowe['s sold me the wrong paint period.Thanks guys for your attempt to help.

Re: Latex paint

I have to agree with NEC on this one. Whereas there have been great improvements in latex/acrylic paints in recent years, they still do not compare with the finish that one gets with an oil or lacquer paint on cabinetry, especially if the mode of application is with brush/roller. A decent looking finish can be obtained if spraying latex/acrylic, but it still will have that soft, gummy feeling, especially when it is humid. Doors which make contact will tend to stick.

TGGringo, did you thouroughly clean and scuff sand your cabinets? Did you use an enamel undercoater? Latex/acrylic paint generally requires a dedicated undercoated for good adnesion of the finish coat. Two such products are Glidden's "Gripper" or Behr's "No.74 Enamel Undercoater".
Some acrylic paints do claim to be self-adhering. I would follow the manufacturer's instructions.

In any event, your finish coat will only have as good adhesion as that coat you put on which is not adhering well. Personally, I would try to remove it and start over. If it is really badly adhered, you might try to scrape it off using a single edge razor blade dragged over the surface while baring down on it. The pressure will often pop off badly adhered paints.

Is Lowe's responsible? It always amazes me how many people start a project without even reading the product label, more or less doing a little research first. Further, "Big Box" stores aren't known for the expertise of their help( I like to think of myself as an exception). Caveat emptor, as the phrase goes!

Re: Latex paint

Proper cleaning and prep consists of more than wiping down with TSP. Even cheap house paint would have adhered if the surface had been properly prepped.

Re: Latex paint

A huge "semantics" issue is causing a LOT of problems here...

The word "Enamel" is a MEANINGLESS term...and has been for some time!!!!
* Until the mid-80's, when Latexes started getting better, most paints were Oils.
* For a LOOOONGG time b4 that, Oils were called "Enamels", because they cured-out to a hard finish, much like the Enamel on your teeth. It WASN'T a separate TYPE of Oil.
* Somewhere in the 80's, the term "Enamel" started to be applied to the emerging Latexes...only as a buzzword..."Marketing" ya know!!
* People are STILL confused however. There is such a widespread, erroneous view that there are two types of Latexes....THERE NEVER WAS...
* Yes...some Latexes are much better than others. BUT, the word "Enamel" is just window-dressing...it means nothing.

Your cabinet issue:
>>> Were they rinsed WELL...TWICE...after the TSP?
* ANY residue of TSP will cause adhesion problems.
* What EXACT primer was used, if any?
* Even if primed, the CURING/ADHESION process takes WEEKS.
* Even a perfect prep/prime/paint process is vulnerable to "pulling-off" under pressure to another surface...until FULL CURE-OUT is achieved.

>>> Did Lowe's do anything wrong...not in the least.

If you truly want "near-perfection", check out FPE's primers/paints. I've had the privilege of working with some samples...Wow. I can see my reflection in the Hollandlac Brilliant (Oil). Their ECO-series is an excellent Low-VOC "Hybrid"...Alkyd AND Latex resins together. This stuff is like painting with SILK.

(I work at a busy Paint/Hardware/Home-Interiors store. I tint LOTS of ACE-Royal, Ralph-Lauren, and the high-end C2 paints. Yes...part of the job involves LOTS of "teaching" too...;) !)


josh the painter
Re: Latex paint

faron hit it right on, the word enamel is just for advertising.

I have painted many diffrent cabinet types and may offer some tips. a tsp wash is a strong first step, ( was it tsp? or tsp substitute) but I would also recomend a fine sand with 220 grit paper.
what kind of primer was used? cabinets take a great deal of abuse so I recommend a shellac or oil based primer. Dry time is also a very important factor how long did you wait between coats? cabinet paint is easier if you wait for paint to cure not just dry to touch , Eight hours should be enough time between coats.
lastly if you want a harder finish and still be water based try a higher finish like satin or semi gloss ( but not high gloss*) or go for a acrylic like porch and floor paint. latex and acrylic are very similar but acylic is typicaly a much harder finish.

hope that helps

*Why not use a gloss?
Because most manufactures only produce one gloss paint formula for both interior and exterior use. That formula is not always a durable as a semi-gloss for interior use in high traffic areas.

Re: Latex paint

I would like to thank you all for your comments.Each is a learning experience.Though I hate the idea guess Faron and Josh the Painter are right.I just have to face the music and start over on the cabinet bases.The doors I have sanded lightly,but will sand again more completely and then apply a good primer before I paint them.Thanks again for all your comments.
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