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Al C
Re: Kitchen floor dilemma
Al C
HoustonRemodeler wrote:

What about adding another support beam to reduce the span of the joists?

I could do that. The beam would not be centered in the existing span because there is an exterior door in the way, (it's a walk out basement on that end of the house). The offset would mean a span of 8' on one side and 6' on the other. To do that correctly would mean cutting the existing concrete floor under the new posts and installing the appropriate footings to support the posts; the existing concrete floor is only 2" thick at best. This is all doable but not sure it's worth it. As I've said, I'm not absolutely married to the idea of having tile.

I did go to the Hardwood Flooring Association website and forum and have gotten some great feedback there also. Great place, just like ATOH and the John Bridge Tile forum.

I may end up back at square one, which was to do either a laminate floor or a luxury vinyl tile or plank floor. If anyone has feedback on either of those products, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks.

Doug97501
Re: Kitchen floor dilemma
Doug97501

Well by now I hope your all done with the kitchen floor and cabinets? We are still in the process of a major upgrade and remodel due to an obscure water leak that ruined some cabinet backs and the vinyl floor. We replaced the vinyl with tile and ran it right up to the front of the cabinets. Most of the small pieces to fit in were already in the scrap pile. Tiling the space for the dishwasher, range, compactor and frige was a good idea because moving them now is very easy.

Replacing the cabinets turned out to be something else. The new cabinets do not match the same color of the old ones (they needed work but now they look sad.) I cant pull them out so have to refinish in place?? Can someone give a clue of the least expense and most DIY friendly method of changing the old cabinet color to more closely match the new ones????????? Help Please!

Al C
Re: Kitchen floor dilemma
Al C
Doug97501 wrote:

Well by now I hope your all done with the kitchen floor and cabinets? We are still in the process of a major upgrade and remodel due to an obscure water leak that ruined some cabinet backs and the vinyl floor. We replaced the vinyl with tile and ran it right up to the front of the cabinets. Most of the small pieces to fit in were already in the scrap pile. Tiling the space for the dishwasher, range, compactor and frige was a good idea because moving them now is very easy.

Replacing the cabinets turned out to be something else. The new cabinets do not match the same color of the old ones (they needed work but now they look sad.) I cant pull them out so have to refinish in place?? Can someone give a clue of the least expense and most DIY friendly method of changing the old cabinet color to more closely match the new ones????????? Help Please!

Doug,

You might get more responses if you started a new thread. Maybe title it "How do I match new cabinet color to older cabinets" or something like that. That way people looking at the forum would immediately see what you are looking for instead of reading through several messages about kitchen flooring before coming to your message. Just a suggestion.

keith3267
Re: Kitchen floor dilemma
keith3267

I don't think linoleum ever had asbestos in it, but the typical 12x12 tiles sold in the 60's may have. It can be tested first.

Moisture will not be a problem for the wood floor if it is properly sealed and the floor does not get too cold. Wood floors are often installed over a vapor barrier and unless the floor is very cold so that condensation occurs, it should not be a problem. The wood is exposed to the air in the room so any moisture should wick up and be absorbed in the room air.

Mastercarpentry
Re: Kitchen floor dilemma
Mastercarpentry

Some old linoleum is asbestos-bearing as is some of the old adhesives used with it. Yes, the reason given for not laying wood over lino is the lack of 'breathing', however I have done this successfully many times with laminate flooring, but I don't run laminate where I expect moisture issues like kitchens or baths A standard hardwood floor shouldn't be as big a problem but again it's not the best choice for moisture-prone areas. I'd prefer tile here.

As to the beam, based on construction you might be able to support the ends (or at least one end) by hanging it from the rim joist or fastening it to the foundation wall. If the span isn't too far doing both ends may be enough but at least this will reduce the number of footings and posts needed. Also consider a metal "I" beam or "flitch plate" beam which can have a greater unsupported span. Possibly you can cantilever the ends somewhat to keep the post count you need down. Diamond blades for a skilsaw are cheap these days which will make short work of cutting the 2" slab for new footings, finish cutting the little remaining slab with hammer and cold chisel. Check the "deflectometer" numbers for the longest side of this span, I think it's viable at 8'. Hardi-backer etc ending with tile and you've got a first-class kitchen floor without adding too much change at the doors- another aspect to check before making a decision here. Whatever flooring you choose, be sure you will still be able to remove under-counter appliances (dishwasher and oven) when you're done, also be sure the fridge will clear any cabinets above it too.

Think it through, measure not guess, and be sure you've thought of everything before you start so you don't run into yourself along the way and it should all go well for you.

Phil

Doug97501
Re: Kitchen floor dilemma
Doug97501
Al C wrote:

Doug,

You might get more responses if you started a new thread. Maybe title it "How do I match new cabinet color to older cabinets" or something like that. That way people looking at the forum would immediately see what you are looking for instead of reading through several messages about kitchen flooring before coming to your message. Just a suggestion.

tHANKS, i AM NEW AT THIS STUFF SO I APPRECIATE THE INSIGHT!

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