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joining aluminium gutter sections


I have to join two 10ft runs of aluminium k-profile gutter onto either side of a drop section:

The end product will look like in the lower-right corner of this picture:

Now, I have several options of doing the two joins:

  1. using two crimp-on "seamers" to cover the seams between the two 10ft runs and the drop
  2. using two slip-on connectors to connect the two 10ft runs to the drop
  3. getting (or fabricating) a drop section which already has, on either side, the kind of interlocking slip-on connectors do (essentially a double-fold before extrusion to create the slip-on lip)
  4. reduce the ends of the two 10ft runs and slip them into the drop section then mechanically fastened (screws on the front and back)

I cannot go with seamless since one of the two 10ft segments "belongs" to me, while the other one is the neighbour's (who will have to replace her fascia in the coming years and tear the entire thing down again.)

The 10ft runs are pitched 1/2".

Because the joinery is extremely visible (man's height level and right at the entrance) I would prefer methods #3/#4 over #1/#2 because they have the minimal number of seams. However, I have yet to see an off-the-shelf part fitting the bill for #3 -- and #4 is barely mentioned anywhere.

Is there anything obviously wrong with #4?


A. Spruce
Re: joining aluminium gutter sections

Typically, gutter sections are overlapped with sealant between the two sections. A rivot is then usually installed at the top edges front and back to hold the joint steady. Installing fasteners below the "water line" of the gutter is ill-advised because it will become a point at which to leak.

If it were me, I'd lap the gutters into the downspout section with the sealant between the two pieces and forget about slip connectors because that just isn't aesthetic at all. Better yet would be to joint the two gutter sections and install a drop in type scupper. Drop in scuppers are either round or rectangular, simply drill/cut a hole, apply sealant around hole, drop in scupper, then use either flat headed sheetmetal screws or rivots on either side of the scupper to hold into place. In this instance the fasteners are ok because they'll be inside the downspout once it's in place.

When it comes time for the neighbor to replace their fascia, the entire gutter would be removed and set aside. Even if you put in the separate gutter section with the scupper, this would be the likely course of action by anyone coming in to do the repair. It's easier to remove an entire gutter run than to try to break a section apart and get it back together without damage to the gutters or leaks afterwards.

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