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Help to install faceless deadbolt

Need help figuring out how to install a faceless (ie, single-sided) deadbolt in a metal, foam-cored entry door. My boyfriend's house was burgled by the thieves kicking in his door. Door frame has been replaced, new traditional deadbolt and doorknob have been installed. However, he has a second "faceless" deadbolt that cannot be seen from outside. We have a schlage B80 single sided deadbolt, but there is nothing to screw the little metal piece that secures the actual deadbolt. Kwikset and Baldwin single sided deadbolts are basically the same -- the guy who repaired the doorframe tossed all the old locks before I had a chance to ask him to keep the faceless one. So I cannot refer back to that one to see how it was installed. This is a condo situation, so we cannot simply drill a hole on the other side of the door and install a regular deadbolt. Basically, how trying to figure how how to secure the actual deadblot so when you turn the knob, it stays in the door. The hole is too big for the metal piece that fits inside the knob that typically would hold the deadbolt in place. I know there is a way to attach it, as there was one in there before - I just can't figure out how to do it. Again, is a metal, foam cored door, not a good wooden one with wood core. Cannot replace the door as is a condo and rules will not allow for new door.

Re: Help to install faceless deadbolt

Stop by the Schlage web site to find the contact information on the product;

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Re: Help to install faceless deadbolt

Thanks -- I did that though, and even spoke with someone at Schlage. They just kept saying that it has to bolt into the door, and all of their single sided deadbolts work on all doors. I couldn't seem to get them to understand there is nothing to bolt into. I was wondering if there is a way I can support the lock, other than bolting it.

Re: Help to install faceless deadbolt

Have you considered a surface-mounted assembly? These used to be called "Night Latches" and some were beveled to work automatically (you don't ant one of those without a keyed outside), some were straight-sided. The ones I use now are of a 'finger-lap' style with a molded pin system that effectively ties both sides together when locked. Since these depend on the interior surface to mount you don't need a through hole and since they must be manually activated you can't lock yourself out.
There are also flip-over gadgets that resemble a hinge which mount to the frame to secure the door from the inside. A bit of shopping should find these locally, or if you can stand the appearance a simple large barrel-bolt or two will work very well.

A single deadbolt can provide great security if everything is done correctly, which it usually isn't. It's only half of the system with the door frame providing the other half. In every "kick in" I've ever seen it was the door frame side that failed so long as it was a one-inch bolt without excess space between door and frame. Since you said they replaced the frame I think this is what happened here. Without getting too detailed, the frame must be tightly shimmed to the studs above and below where all latching strikes are, and the strikes must be solid and screwed deeply into to the studs- not just into the door frame itself with those short screws that come with the locks If I've got a door frame out for this reason I also reinforce those studs with some extra nails/screws before covering that with the door frame. Then I use 3" or longer screws to hold the strikes to the frame, angling them slightly toward the center of the stud for strength. I also add one of those long screws to the top and bottom hinge to secure that side equally, and add longer screws to the door side of the hinge in every hole- most of those are just 3/4" or less and will pull out easily.

If you do this right, the door will fail before the frame does. The frame may begin to split but it won't break. I've had to do many 'kick-ins' for stupid tenants who lost the key then called for repairs because of a "break-in" to cover the damage they caused themselves. The proof of this was in my later finding kick-dents in the new door I put in which didn't give way, and the broken window they created to gain access when they lost their keys once again. Then they installed new locks- right after I installed new locks and gave them the keys myself- and called me out to repair the broken window as if I wouldn't notice the rest! I am glad to be out of that (bottom) end of the business now.

If you choose to go with a surface-mount, use the largest and longest screws you can that will not penetrate past the outer surface. Screw that strike and all the existing ones into the studs as I mentioned, also doing the hinges as I noted, being careful to not open the space between the door and frame if they didn't shim where they should have. That's about all you can do without pulling the casing to add those shims if they aren't there. Which I'd check anyway even if it meant repainting that casing because without them you're still not solid.

I do hope the break-in was just an anomaly because if it's common to the area, that door isn't the only thing you're going to need to address to prevent or deter the next attempt.


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